CharlieT
Veteran Member
Which cluster are you using ? the TT, or did you swap in the TDI cluster ?
VW cluster is not plug and play. It require lot of wiring since VW cluster has 2 plugs and Audi TT has 3 plugs.So far the TT, was going to plug in the vw one and check if everything works still, if so I will put the TDI cluster in the TT housing.
Yes, the ECU will throw a code if it does not see the cluster glowplug light load. By random coincidence I discovered that the TT Afterrun Coolant Pump for the turbo seems to draw the same load, or at least make the ECU happy.However, although I rolled with it for a few months I never liked the TT cluster because there was no glow plug light and the TDI ECU was never happy about that - also the RPM redline
I am using a 99.5 ecu, no programming, socketed for chips, car is a 2000 so no immobilizer and none on 99.5 ecu, glow plugs will be wired in this week so I will see if that code goes away.I played with that idea, but decided to stick with the TT Cluster. That requires an Immo delete on the ECU, which I didn't like for security in a roadster, so got Marin to match the SKCs for me.
Maybe the older ECU is more tolerant to faults if you really have no codes ? you should certainly have a glowplug fault code and a J317 implausible code. If you have no haldex, then that is less of an issue. And if your TT is older it likely runs the older Mk20 ABS module, mine is 2003 so Mk60 ABS which seems to need more data.
You will likely also have a code for missing message from airbag controller, which seems to cause a few other issues.
Also the cluster will complain about the lack of G266 oil level/temp sensor, unless your TT was the older one without it ?
When it comes to connecting a tune loader, you will have to disable the K-wire system and force it to run CANbus dircet to the ECU. But then you will need to reconnect the K-wire for VCDS comms, as it cannot see past the cluster on CANbus.
I agree wholeheartedly. I only wanted to toss out my approach for possible reference within the forum. For my swap, I decided to jump into the immo crap because it was technically part of the conversion project and out of some sort of foolhardy desire to do as much of it as I could myself. Plus I had some down time here and there waiting for parts..... you can BRICK that ECU very easy.
Yes , you have fully immobilizer operated.Marin,
Does my .:RTDI still have immo?
Sorry for the thread jack. Marin did all this for my R32 swap.
Just want to mention that there is at least one in Canada also lolMk1 TT never had TDI anywhere.
MkII TT came as a TDI in Europe, so it would be an easier swap, but donor cars are still $15k+
I think there are about 10 Mk1 TT TDI swaps in the US, and a few more in Europe. It is a great platform for a tuned TDI engine.
happens to 1in 15 of their flywheels
G60 set up is good for 300 ft/lb of torque , this will handle VNT 17 turbo with bigger injectors. So if not going for big power over 300 ft/lb ,just some updates, took the south bend clutch out after having issues with it releasing, would push the clutch in and have a 3 second delay with the clutch engaged and unable to shift into a gear, replaced the slave and master cylinders, no change, pulled the trans and inspected the clutch and found a grey sticky dust on the flywheel side, cleaned the flywheel and clutch with brake clean really good, put it back together and it was good for 2 days and started sticking again, pulled the trans again, same sticky dust, replaced the trans with a stock one (no more high 5th) just in case the dust was coming from the input seal leaking, even though it is dry, cleaned everything again and had another 2 good days and sticking again, so I called south bend and gave them a piece of my mind, was told I could return it so out it comes again, I ordered a vr6/g60 flywheel and a clutch for a 96 Passat vr6, I have had very good luck with this setup in the past. put the new setup and drove to south bend and returned their clutch which was surprisingly easy, I have over 1500 trouble free miles so far. im not bashing south bend but their clutch wasn't what I expected and have had problems with their product since day one and couldn't be happier with my current setup.
The only marks were from when the first flywheel lost some teeth and spun around the bellhousing. I was a little too angry to stop and take pictures, I have had the trans out 5 times since putting the car together all due to clutch issues. I should have just gone with what I knew works and not get talked into something I didn't need from the salesman at kerma.Were there any wear marks in the bell housing from contact? Pics would be interesting to see.