The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

Col Sanders said:

You might need to do the mode/blend door repair. If it's never been done you most surely need to do it. Look in the vents, see any foam in there? 190 degree thermostat will produce more heat than you ever need. There is a sticky on this. Large PITA to do. Mine took about 9 hrs. to do. Well worth the effort. Hot heat, ice cold a/c.

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Thanks, I did the blend door repair last year, and yes it did fix interior heat issues.
What I wish to fix is how damn to slow it takes for the engine to come up to operating temperature...this did not seem to fix that issue.

What I wish to fix is how damn to slow it takes for the engine to come up to operating temperature

Mine has always been slow to warm up, I think is nature of the beast!

Are your coolant glow plugs working? My wagon takes a lot longer than the sedan because the fuse is burned out and I've been too lazy to replace it (until now)

Abacus said:

Are your coolant glow plugs working? My wagon takes a lot longer than the sedan because the fuse is burned out and I've been too lazy to replace it (until now)

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hey Abacus, where is that fuse? I should check it, both the fuse and the glowplugs... as I don't recall it being this slow when I bought the car (13 or so years ago!)
thanks,
Steve

The car has not been feeling planted lately. Grooved pavement made it squirrely and it has been pulling right on throttle application, though the steering wheel would not be affected. I put the car up on stands and checked it over and found only one problem; the through bolt on the left side control arm pivot was quite loose. I snugged it tight, and just that one thing completely cured all the symptoms I was having. Amazing.

Looks like we might be coming up on our last good days out there, was into the 50's today, not bad for Iowa in the middle of December. We even got a late afternoon group cycling workout in. Nice to not have to be on the trainer inside!

At any rate, got the Mk3 out and to the car wash today, it certainly needed it, was dusty dirty, hasn't been out on the street since the wagon was birthed in 2016. I'm noticing a few little rusty things on it I'm not happy about and then there's that little bit of floor that's missing on the passenger rear area. All work in the future.



Also, the battery in the Mk3 was brand new Christmas 2015, back when the alternator took a crap and drained my existing battery and I limped back to Des Moines from NE Iowa on only battery power. It was time to rotate that battery into the wagon to get some use out of it. I've done maintenance charges on it for a while but there's no reason it shouldn't be in use.

When I pulled the wagon battery to swap in the other I noticed an interesting situation with the intercooler piping clamp that I hadn't noticed before. It was grinding its way into the battery casing.



Notice the gouge in the battery...



Resolved here by turning the clamp ears vertical.



So, just in case you all have been in there take a look to make sure your cooler piping clamp isn't having its way with your battery!!

Steve

Steve, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a pic of your Jetta...

Were those Borbets a factory option? My B4 came with them and I’ve seen them on a few other VWs.


Yesterday, I chased down an issue with the aftermarket stereo in the B4. Right channel would occasionally cut out. It’s been doing this very occasionally for the past year but is progressively gotten worse. I originally thought it was the amp, but did some troubleshooting and it ended up being the crossover. Midbass driver also has a slightly bad voice coil.

Wasn’t very happy about this find, since the speakers were the earlier Eton built, Diamond Audio Hex series, circa 1997(?). I had a spare crossover, but no extra drivers.

Added some sound deadening to the mounting rings and installed period correct MB Quart Reference 160 drivers, but it’s nowhere near the same.

The Diamonds had an incredibly heavy cast aluminum frame and a patented Kevlar/Nomex honeycomb cone, that made them the stiffest cone out there. The crossovers were also monsters with the same cast aluminum treatment. These retailed for about $750-$800 back in the day. I could never afford these, when they were new. FWIW, Eton is still the only manufacturer I’m aware of, using their Hexacone cone.

The Quarts were also an excellent German made speaker, but had standard glass reinforced nylon frames and poly cones. These and their earlier speakers are what I used to buy, and retailed for about half of what the Diamonds did.




Like most things, most good car audio manufacturers sold/merged or sent production to China in the late 90s or early 2000s; everything eventually got watered down. The old stuff is still sought after... ah, the good ol days...

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

Steve, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a pic of your Jetta...

Were those Borbets a factory option? My B4 came with them and I’ve seen them on a few other VWs.

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I think I've posted up pictures of it before but it's been a while. It's been a long time since it's been out of the garage. I almost didn't want to start it, it should have a TB change plus a major number of seals / gaskets replaced, front / rear mains / clutch (since I'm in there) and add the 6th gear kit too. It was so dirty though from sitting inside that I felt compelled to take it out and wash it up.

No, the Borbet's were not factory options on Mk3 or B4 cars. They would have been added by aftermarket later after the cars were built. These I purchased out of Omaha on a whim but the tires are not sized where I like them but they work for now just supporting it while it sits in the garage. I'm not as fond of the type E wheels as I was a while back.

Biggest surprise was how quiet the Mk3 was compared to the B3V and the wagon has at least as much cowl / front floor insulation. I'm not sure if this is due to exhaust or not, could be....

ToddA1 said:

Yesterday, I chased down an issue with the aftermarket stereo in the B4. Right channel would occasionally cut out. It’s been doing this very occasionally for the past year but is progressively gotten worse. I originally thought it was the amp, but did some troubleshooting and it ended up being the crossover. Midbass driver also has a slightly bad voice coil.

Wasn’t very happy about this find, since the speakers were the earlier Eton built, Diamond Audio Hex series, circa 1997(?). I had a spare crossover, but no extra drivers.

Added some sound deadening to the mounting rings and installed period correct MB Quart Reference 160 drivers, but it’s nowhere near the same.

The Diamonds had an incredibly heavy cast aluminum frame and a patented Kevlar/Nomex honeycomb cone, that made them the stiffest cone out there. The crossovers were also monsters with the same cast aluminum treatment. These retailed for about $750-$800 back in the day. I could never afford these, when they were new. FWIW, Eton is still the only manufacturer I’m aware of, using their Hexacone cone.

The Quarts were also an excellent German made speaker, but had standard glass reinforced nylon frames and poly cones. These and their earlier speakers are what I used to buy, and retailed for about half of what the Diamonds did.

Like most things, most good car audio manufacturers sold/merged or sent production to China in the late 90s or early 2000s; everything eventually got watered down. The old stuff is still sought after... ah, the good ol days...

-Todd

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I have a JY friend who's an audiophile and he says exactly the same thing. Anymore I just want some sound...lol.

Steve

Abacus said:

Are your coolant glow plugs working? My wagon takes a lot longer than the sedan because the fuse is burned out and I've been too lazy to replace it (until now)

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Hey Mark
Have you mounted a light somewhere to monitor this? I have thought about having Chubbs add a dash light in one of the open spots in the cluster that would illuminate when this circuit was active.

Any thoughts?

Steve

Steve Addy said:

I'm not as fond of the type E wheels as I was a while back.

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Im not a fan at all. They came with my car and they had good tires on them, so I’m getting my money’s worth out of them. Doesn’t help that the clear is coming off, in sheets.

I notice you’re missing a couple center caps. I never reinstalled mine and you’re welcome to them, if you want them.

Steve Addy said:

Biggest surprise was how quiet the Mk3 was compared to the B3V and the wagon has at least as much cowl / front floor insulation. I'm not sure if this is due to exhaust or not, could be....

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Funny, I decided to let the Rotbox stretch its legs today and drove it to my mom’s in VA. Drove perfectly, but there was a lot of noise. I’m sure it didn’t help that I inflated the snow tires to 40psi and left the roof rack on...

Steve Addy said:

I have a JY friend who's an audiophile and he says exactly the same thing. Anymore I just want some sound...lol.

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As cheap as stuff is nowadays, you should be able to build a modest system on the cheap. I used to spend a LOT of money on this stuff... still hanging onto some of it, decades later...

Steve Addy said:

Have you mounted a light somewhere to monitor this? I have thought about having Chubbs add a dash light in one of the open spots in the cluster that would illuminate when this circuit was active.

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I did something like what you mentioned, to monitor GPs. Adapting it to the CGPs would be the same general process, unless you’re trying to use the existing cluster harness and circuit board.

The bright red LED indicates the starter solenoid under the hood, is energized.

The yellow LEDs are fed power after the individual GP lead fuses. If a fuse blew, I’d know which one, by which LED was not lit.




This obviously does not monitor the actual GP, only if power is being sent to it.

One of the yellow LEDs was not 100% inline with the others and it always bothered me. Maybe it was why I sold the car, lol.

-Todd

I did not install a light but that's a good idea.

ToddA1 said:

Im not a fan at all. They came with my car and they had good tires on them, so I’m getting my money’s worth out of them. Doesn’t help that the clear is coming off, in sheets.

I notice you’re missing a couple center caps. I never reinstalled mine and you’re welcome to them, if you want them.

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Todd, I don't mind the wheels but with the rubber that's on them I'm indifferent. I think the 205/50r15 tires don't help the car at all, I like more tire than that. Also the offset is ET35 which is just a tad more than I can appreciate but these too are 15x7 so that makes a difference too. All in all they're ok for what they do now.

Oh and the caps are installed, these are actually quite old Borbet wheels, when they were still made in Germany, the caps back then were black with silver lettering. I appreciate your offer though, thank you!

ToddA1 said:

Funny, I decided to let the Rotbox stretch its legs today and drove it to my mom’s in VA. Drove perfectly, but there was a lot of noise. I’m sure it didn’t help that I inflated the snow tires to 40psi and left the roof rack on...

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No doubt that added to the noise. The tires on my Mk3 are pretty soft so there was little if any noise, but I did notice that my exhaust on the Mk3 is quieter. It is original exhaust so I'm not surprised that the factory system would be quieter.

ToddA1 said:

I did something like what you mentioned, to monitor GPs. Adapting it to the CGPs would be the same general process, unless you’re trying to use the existing cluster harness and circuit board.

The bright red LED indicates the starter solenoid under the hood, is energized.

The yellow LEDs are fed power after the individual GP lead fuses. If a fuse blew, I’d know which one, by which LED was not lit.

This obviously does not monitor the actual GP, only if power is being sent to it.

One of the yellow LEDs was not 100% inline with the others and it always bothered me. Maybe it was why I sold the car, lol.-Todd

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Abacus said:

I did not install a light but that's a good idea.

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Todd, you're pretty critical of your cars, selling because an LED didn't line up perfectly!

I've always just assumed that the coolant GP's were working on my Mk3 but there was never any proof of that, same with the wagon. On the B4 cluster though I think there's several slots that could have an LED installed that could be wired in to show that voltage was applied, when I have Chubbs rework my MFA VR cluster for the B3V wagon I'll see if I can't get him to add one to it. I have spare cluster harnesses that I can pilfer a wire from to make it work so that's no big deal at all.

Steve

I loved that car, but when it sits, it’s time to sell. That car brought me a decent return, and financed other projects. I may like the build, more than actual ownership...

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

I loved that car, but when it sits, it’s time to sell. That car brought me a decent return, and financed other projects. I may like the build, more than actual ownership...

-Todd

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I agree, I have four things that have been sitting and need to go, two are four wheel and two are two wheeled. And that doesn't include the 92 Jetta Carat that I just finally finished up, which will hopefully be sold around year end. That's been around since a year ago last October and it's the last car I buy to refurb and sell, they're too much of a hassle anymore.

I'm tired of having stuff sit, it only gets worse from there IMO. Better to move it on and be done with it. I'm of similar mind, if the return is good enough it can help finance another build and I might like the build part more than the ownership in the end.

Steve

Well, the Rotbox did the 400 mile round trip without any issues. Wished I thought about cleaning the CC switch, prior to the trip.

After my return, I pulled the white box, and installed the remote starter that was destined for my Rabbit. There are too many features that my 2 B4s, have, that I was missing.

I’m not a fan of cutting factory wiring if it can be avoided, so I tapped in at the alarm box plugs. The terminals were pulled, the alarm wiring was twisted around the terminal, 2 zip ties at each wire so it couldn’t pull out, then reinstalled into the plug. I think there were only 3 wires, where I used Scotch Locks.

I screwed up and didn’t add diodes to the wiring for the turn signals, so I need to go back and correct that... I’ll likely just tap into the marker lights at the HL switch. I also need to troubleshoot why the turbo timer function isn’t working. I use it more as a “pit stop” feature, if I’m running into a store for a minute.

I think I found the issue with my intermittent power locks. The connections at the driver door jamb were heavily corroded. Pulled everything, sprayed with Deoxit, wire brushed, resprayed, then reinstalled. So far, so good...

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

I also need to troubleshoot why the turbo timer function isn’t working. I use it more as a “pit stop” feature, if I’m running into a store for a minute.

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That is a use that I have never considered.

Once you use it, it’s hugely convenient. I’ve never used it, as an actual turbo timer.

I think it was from one of my old Bulldog add on units that originally coined it as the “pit stop” feature.

-Todd

This wasn't all done today, however I redid the whole front end short of the struts and axles. I regret not doing the struts, but they'll be okay until spring. Got it aligned with my new set of snow tires. Picked up a couple connectors and a solenoid so I can wire the glow plugs to be controlled manually yesterday. Picked up what I need to go vnt, and a spare set of injectors from a totalled mk4 car. Cleaning the turbo today. Possibly swapping the injectors today depending on which set is cleaner..hmm. still trying to sort out my cluster issue. Going to run an a3 cluster (I bought three of them). I've now got the clock and odometer after a new battery, new cables, cleaning all under ground hoods, checking and replacing fuses and relays as needed. And inspecting most all wire associated with the cluster. As soon as I turn the key on, needles occasionally flutter and then clock and odometer cut out. This issue is the first I started working on with this car and so far the longest unresolved help lol

Fixed the remote starter issues with the parking lights and turbo timer. Somehow, I tapped into the wrong wire twice, for the latter issue...

Power locks work 99% of the time, so I’ll need to check out the Bentley.

I decided to install another power port on the p/s of the center console. I tapped into the existing wiring for the lighter. This turned into a minor headache, because I lost power at the stock lighter and no fuses are blown. I wasn’t pulling the fuse panel down again, so I ran a new power wire. .

Pulled the CC stalk and opened it up. This one wasn’t terrible and they can be a pita to get back together, so I disassembled 50% and cleaned it out with brake clean, cotton swabs and Deoxit. Smeared some dielectric grease in there and reassembled. I lost the little steel cylinder that’s in there, so I took apart a spare stalk. Worked out better, because the text on this one wasn’t washed out. Road tested and CC is back.

Reassembled the car, vacuumed, cleared codes from testing the remote starter with things disconnected. Checked timing, IQ, and EGR adaption and all checked out good.

Seeing more foam from the vents, but after doing some research, I’d need to pull the knee bar and it’s an ordeal. That’s not happening...

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

Fixed the remote starter issues with the parking lights and turbo timer. Somehow, I tapped into the wrong wire twice, for the latter issue...

Power locks work 99% of the time, so I’ll need to check out the Bentley.

I decided to install another power port on the p/s of the center console. I tapped into the existing wiring for the lighter. This turned into a minor headache, because I lost power at the stock lighter and no fuses are blown. I wasn’t pulling the fuse panel down again, so I ran a new power wire. .

Pulled the CC stalk and opened it up. This one wasn’t terrible and they can be a pita to get back together, so I disassembled 50% and cleaned it out with brake clean, cotton swabs and Deoxit. Smeared some dielectric grease in there and reassembled. I lost the little steel cylinder that’s in there, so I took apart a spare stalk. Worked out better, because the text on this one wasn’t washed out. Road tested and CC is back.

Reassembled the car, vacuumed, cleared codes from testing the remote starter with things disconnected. Checked timing, IQ, and EGR adaption and all checked out good.

Seeing more foam from the vents, but after doing some research, I’d need to pull the knee bar and it’s an ordeal. That’s not happening...

-Todd

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You're really doting on this winter beater...

My Mk3 needs hvac doors redone and new heater core too so I'll be pulling the whole dash out eventually. Not something I'm looking forward to but it has to be done. Besides I've already done the same for the B3V so how much harder can it really be.

At any rate sounds like you're getting very close to having that thing taken care of!

Steve

True, but this is the easier stuff. I like everything to work and as mentioned, the car runs great and was mechanicly maintained. Once I get the locks 100%, I think I’m done. If I get more than a year out of it, it’ll be worth it.

I was not expecting the blend doors to be that involved. I’m wondering if by unbolting the p/s of the kneebar, if it can be flexed away enough to access the doors. The car gets decent heat, but there’s not much directional control.

I’m definitely not getting into the AC, body, windshield, etc.

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

True, but this is the easier stuff. I like everything to work and as mentioned, the car runs great and was mechanicly maintained. Once I get the locks 100%, I think I’m done. If I get more than a year out of it, it’ll be worth it.

I was not expecting the blend doors to be that involved. I’m wondering if by unbolting the p/s of the kneebar, if it can be flexed away enough to access the doors. The car gets decent heat, but there’s not much directional control.

I’m definitely not getting into the AC, body, windshield, etc.

-Todd

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I'm not sure you're going to get the knee bar far enough away to be able to access the heater box. On the Mk3 it's contiguous across the front and separate from the pads unlike the B3/4 which is split at the driver and incorporates the padding, which I think makes it easier.

If you wanted to remove the bar I think you'll need to pull out the center dash section or at least the lower portion of it and the console will have to come out too. It's been a while since I've been in there on the Mk3 cars but it's less fun than the B cars. That's one reason why I dragged my heels on fixing the heater core on my car, I knew it would be a complete tear out.

I don't blame you for wanting things to work, I struggled with the central locking system on a mk2 Jetta not long ago, I got it to lock properly but then it would immediately unlock itself again. I didn't have any patience with it so it never got fixed completely.

I do like things to work as they should, especially cruise and AC/heat. I think my Mk3 has just about blown all the foam out through the vents now!

Steve

I need to get into the locks... they didn’t lock the car tonight. I looked at the wiring diagrams and there really isn’t much to it. Now that the alarm box was pulled, I’ll start at the vacuum pump, the p/s jamb, then move to the door switches, then the interior switch.

Interior lock switch and the driver key only work occasionally. I don’t think the p/s handle ever worked the locks. The micro switches only throw 12v to the motor, so I’m hoping it’s something simple. I’m thinking the switches could be disconnected and not break the signal path.

About the foam... I was coming home from a friend’s house (30° tonight) and I’m getting adequate heat. I decide to recirculate and temp had to go up at least 10°.

This gets me thinking... why not keep it in recirculate and prop the exterior damper open, to get some fresh air.... maybe .5 to 1”? Tweak it, if I need to. The only thing I’d need to figure out is, if the raintray damper opens when vacuum is lost. I may need to fix the damper into position.

This may be a very simple solution... not ideal, but it should work for a while.

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

I need to get into the locks... they didn’t lock the car tonight. I looked at the wiring diagrams and there really isn’t much to it. Now that the alarm box was pulled, I’ll start at the vacuum pump, the p/s jamb, then move to the door switches, then the interior switch.

Interior lock switch and the driver key only work occasionally. I don’t think the p/s handle ever worked the locks. The micro switches only throw 12v to the motor, so I’m hoping it’s something simple. I’m thinking the switches could be disconnected and not break the signal path.

About the foam... I was coming home from a friend’s house (30° tonight) and I’m getting adequate heat. I decide to recirculate and temp had to go up at least 10°.

This gets me thinking... why not keep it in recirculate and prop the exterior damper open, to get some fresh air.... maybe .5 to 1”? Tweak it, if I need to. The only thing I’d need to figure out is, if the raintray damper opens when vacuum is lost. I may need to fix the damper into position.

This may be a very simple solution... not ideal, but it should work for a while.

-Todd

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My passenger side door handle activates the locking system. In fact I have to use the passenger side to do additional remotes because there's a problem with the driver door handle microswitch.

I still got reasonable heat from my Mk3, it wasn't like there was a huge problem even with the loss of the foam, but it was irritating to have foam chunks blow out at you, and also I'd prefer to have the doors covered like they should be, I'm sure the heat would be stellar with good door coverings.

Steve

Today I gave the ol' girl a bath, replaced my antenna gasket, lubricated the latches & hinges with Fluid Film and touched up a few area of rust with some POR.

Cut the end of my "straight pipe" exhaust to match the angle of the lower rear bumper valance.

Nice. I’ve wanted to notch the valance, to improve the appearance.

A few days ago I tested continuity and powered at the Rotbox’s door lock pump. Getting good results and applying power directly to the pump gave me nada. I took the pump apart and saw a tiny bit of corrosion, so I sprayed the rear of the board down with Deoxit and scrubbed it with a nylon brush. I did it a couple times for good measure...

It’s been fine since.... I don’t think it’s worked this flawlessly since I put it in the road.

Need to get into the coolant GP box, next. I had one of the terminals disconnected/broken from the relay box, since I got it. I need to see if there’s a way to reattach it, or hobble it back together.

-Todd

Looks good!

ToddA1 said:

Nice. I’ve wanted to notch the valance, to improve the appearance.

A few days ago I tested continuity and powered at the Rotbox’s door lock pump. Getting good results and applying power directly to the pump gave me nada. I took the pump apart and saw a tiny bit of corrosion, so I sprayed the rear of the board down with Deoxit and scrubbed it with a nylon brush. I did it a couple times for good measure...

It’s been fine since.... I don’t think it’s worked this flawlessly since I put it in the road.

Need to get into the coolant GP box, next. I had one of the terminals disconnected/broken from the relay box, since I got it. I need to see if there’s a way to reattach it, or hobble it back together.

-Todd

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Does the coolant GP Box affect start up? Cold starts specifically or all starts?

Changed the oil today. I switched to MB1 5w40 to try and reduce the consumption since it seems other users have had success switching to it. The consumption isn't ridiculous, but it never hurts to to try something else.

HAPPY NEW YEARS Everyone!

Nope, it just helps with warm up, after the start.

If you’re having hard cold starts, I’d check the GP sticky. Timing should also be checked.

-Todd