Start soaking them down now every time you have a chance and maybe the next time you go to do the fluid change more than just the one will come.Tried to have my brake fluid changed but 3 out of the 4 bleeder screws were seized...
Guess I’m waiting until it needs a full brake job.
Ditto on what Todd said about wire brush, if you can get in there and wire brush off the excess crust it'll make a clearer path for the lubricant to get in there and do its job.I’ll start soaking the bleeders and work on freeing them up.
So what you're saying is you acquired another car? We're going to need some photos of that ASAP.Todd said:Just flushed the fluid, in a new to me GTI, and the reservoir had a layer of, what looked to be mud, inside.
Wow, that's like a complete about face from where you were headed before. So what happens to the other stuff? You still moving ahead with the tdi Mk1? So much time put into the Mk1 tdi I'd hate to see it get shelved for very long.Yeah, 84 Rabbit GTI was acquired mid December. I’m back in the gas game... came up for sale locally, and I couldn’t resist being back in a Rabbit GTI. It’s the first VW, I ever owned, hence my screen name.
Seller called me the day we were meeting, and it left him stranded, lol. CV came loose from the drive cup. It’s 35 y/o, and barely molested... I bought it, without driving it. The next day, I spent several hours on my back, in the rain, trying to fix it. Drive cup needed to be replaced.
Pics from roughly 3 weeks ago.
Seems like I’ve been wrenching on it nonstop...
New drive cup and both axle seals
Removed the aftermarket alarm (that I was told was disconnected) because I couldn’t start the car, after I disconnected the battery.
Rehung the TT exhaust... murder to get apart
Rebuilt the shift linkage
Redid their A3 wiper motor swap
All of the windows were tinted... steamed it all off
Flattened the door panels
Fixed the blower motor issue and replaced the resistor pack
Installed bigger front brakes and flushed the brake fluid
Removed the Raceland coilovers and went back to a cup kit... my teeth were rattling out.
A lot more small stuff, that seems to take forever.
My big issue is I clean, blast then repaint everything, before reinstalling.
There’s some minor performance stuff done and the car is a blast to drive!
-Todd
block-013 seems to be a real good diagnostic for injectors, yet it seems for mk3s and at least for me no reading for inj#4 (??)
so to understand what you posted the other day, ^here, T-Dd, you say cyl #3 gets a 0.00 reference point reading. this i was wondering and kind of figured. but i get a reading on cyls #1 & #2, cyl #3 also gets a reading (on VCDS block-013 screen) and cyl #4 stays blank. so is the reading for cyl 3 really a cyl 4 reading? this would clear up a lot and be the answer im looking for. and complete the diagnostic use.Block 13 only shows 3 cylinders
1== cyl1
2== cyl2
3== not shown (always 0.00, the reference point for the others)
4== cyl4
Damn, I need a proofreader. I totally typo'ed 3 and 4, but you figured it out anyway.so to understand what you posted the other day,
The spring change probably coincides with when the valves were changed.i was looking at valve springs. lucky i got info from VW, seems specific info. it seems VW changed valve springs about ~98 or was it ~97?? all i know is my model looks to take the later springs(outer).
i dont know about other valve train and cam changes about this time. good thing i checked, as it looks the springs called for (623D) are ALH type springs? stiffer springs as i see. idk, as i have not much knowledge about mk4s and ALHs, but it seems the ALH later spring is stiffer, we with AHUs still used inner springs? ALHs used a single (the outer) spring?
idk if my AHU head had dual springs, or a single spring. if the spring retainer is for dual is the stiffer outer too much to use with an inner (for mostly stock uses and a stock cam)?