Reliable Bone Stock to Reliable Slightly Modded...

Car:

• Bone stock 2003 Jetta Wagon - 5M - 85K miles. Only have a DieselGeek aluminum skid plate as deviation from stock.

Situation:

• Planning on a 4K to 5K Christmas trip to visit grand-babies and sightsee some on the way home.
• Getting replacement tires tomorrow after work - Michelin Hydroedge.
• With 85K on the clock, timing belt is coming due shortly. Wanna get this replaced before the trip. Gonna do all the rest of the usual replacements with this maintenance.
• Suspension 'squeaks' a smidgen when going over bumps.
• 'Bad' glow plugs/harness/relay - exact issue TBD.
• 'Bad' temp/level water sensor. Car runs at 190° on the temp gauge whether it's 105° or 35° outside.
• There is 'some' typical diesel exhaust smoke on hard acceleration.
• Does not use any oil. Run full synthetic and change about every 7500 - which is about every 9 months for my normal driving.

Wanna:

• Change the TB.
• Repair the glow plug and temp sensor issues.
• Reduce (not necessarily eliminate) smoking on hard acceleration.
• Eliminate suspension squeaks.
• Keep reliability for the next 100K.

What to do?

My problem is that I don't know what the various mods/changes really do.

Two examples - Eliminate the MAF and install a race pipe. Would this help eliminate the smoking issue?

Please, do offer suggestions (besides the obvious change the TB and glow plugs/sensor issue) on what might need changing/replacing.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to help this old geezer better understand what's what.

Have you cleaned out your intake and intercooler? I'm wondering if maybe you have some obstruction in the air intake pathway. It shouldn't smoke if it's all stock...

For other maintenance check out this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=189029&highlight=watch+out+for . There are a few little things to check (like tightening your AC clutch) that will keep you driving worry free miles for a long time.

LeoinSA said:

Car:

• 'Bad' temp/level water sensor. Car runs at 190° on the temp gauge whether it's 105° or 35° outside.

Click to expand...

I don't see the issue here? The car is suppose to be 190 degrees.

NB_TDi said:

I don't see the issue here? The car is suppose to be 190 degrees.

Click to expand...

+1

There is a map inside of the instrument cluster that takes the reading from the temperature sensor and translates it into the position that you see displayed on the dash.

For the most part, any normal operating condition displays 190. Any deviation high or low (save for low during warm-up) would indicate a problem.

However, the Coolant Temp Sensor on the A4 chassis cars has been known to go bad and the upgraded part is green in color. It's about a $20-$25 fix.

dzcad90 said:

+1

There is a map inside of the instrument cluster that takes the reading from the temperature sensor and translates it into the position that you see displayed on the dash.

However, the Coolant Temp Sensor on the A4 chassis cars has been known to go bad and the upgraded part is green in color. It's about a $20-$25 fix.

Click to expand...

Yep - perzactly! The 'warning light' comes on when the engine is cold. If I stop the engine - even after 3 minutes of running - and restart the 'warning light' does not come on.

Coupled with the fact that the temp gauge always reads 190°, I have not worried about the silly red light.

That said, I'd prefer to not have any warning lights appear on the dash readout panel.

More questions

DBDieseler said:

For other maintenance check out this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=189029&highlight=watch+out+for .

Click to expand...

Thanks for the thread link. Following that to the successor thread I found this succinct list. Annotated as applicable with comments and/or questions.

First question in this post - I want to make sure that I can tow a total weight of ~1500 pounds - trailer and load. I reckon that this means upgraded struts and rear springs. But the question is which struts? New stock or aftermarket? Not interested in rallies or racing - so which will be good-e-nuff?

Thanks again for answers or thread links - doggone if I can figure out the search feature so I can narrow down the results into a manageable number.

Color Codes:
Not Applicable
More Info Needed
Definite Issue To Be Fixed RSN!
Already Broken - and Fixed

A4 early (all New Beetles through 2003, late 1999 through 2003 Jetta, late 1999 through 2003 Golf, ALH engine):

01M automatic transmission
injection pumps (clicking)
VNT actuators and sticking VNTs
smashed underbellies
control arm bushings - probably the source of my squeaky suspension.
parking brake cables
fan controllers - Best to wait for failure?
radiator fans - Best to wait for failure?
compressor clutches - Best to wait for failure?
accessory belt idlers and tensioners - Preemptive replacement at what mileage?
vacuum tube to brake boosters
boosters (2002 only for some reason)
oil pump chain (300k+ miles)
long crank time (1998 and 1999 only)
alternator clutch pulleys
dual-mass-flywheel (manual trans)
clogged sunroof drains
wheel bearings (front and rear) - Should these be replaced now at 87K or wait? Replace at what mileage?
seized tie rod adjusters
glow plug harness
relay 109 (main engine ECU relay)
condensers (leaks, NB only)
EGR valves
mirror heater elements
reverse lamp switch connector/wires (manual trans only)
brake light switches
leaky vacuum pumps (oil leaks)
coolant temp sensors
side airbag connectors under seats
clocksprings for driver's airbag
fuel temp sensors
power window regulators
saggy front springs
door latches