howto remove Tough-to-reach oil pan bolts

Teedy Eye

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Location
Vancouver, WA
TDI
2000 Golf GLS
Does anyone have some sage advice for how to reomve the two oil pan bolts that go vertical into the block but have restricted access due to the separator fins(?) next to where the pan bolts onto the tranny?

I've tried everything I've got but I don't have a 1/4" drive "wobbly" (u-joint socket drive). Maybe that would work?
Thanks!
Dave
:confused:
 
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paramedick

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor
Joined
Jul 29, 2001
Location
Versailles, Kentucky
TDI
2015 Audi Q5 TDI
It can be done with either a long shaft ball-end hex socket, or the nice tool that Metalman makes and sells.

You can try with a wobble extension and a 10mm socket.
 

Teedy Eye

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Location
Vancouver, WA
TDI
2000 Golf GLS
Thanks!

Paramedick
Cool. Thanks for the info. I'll pick up a set of those little ball-ended babies on my way home from my shift tomorrow morning. I looked on metalman's site but didn't see the thing you mentioned.:confused:
Also a paramedic,
Dave
 

Matthew_S

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2006
Location
Renton/Redmond, WA
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS galactic blue
In my experience the bolt is usually too tight and a ball end hex just rounds out the bolt. A 1/4" 10mm u-joint socket works every time though.
 

Teedy Eye

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Location
Vancouver, WA
TDI
2000 Golf GLS
Finally got the little suckas out!

Man, this took waaaay too long! The ball-end allen wrench worked on one of them. On the other I tried everything I had. I even took my sawzall and cut away the little divider flanges to give me a little more access room. Finally, to make a long story short, I cut a slot across the head of the bolt with a cold chisel., then did some custom grinding on a wood drill bit that was 1/2" wide, hooked this up with some extensions/adaptors to an air impact wrench and even though it shattered it broke the bolt loose. Then I was able to use a Craftsman wrecked-bolt-remover to finish it. When I got the bolt out it looked really baaaad!

Lessons learned.

Thanks for the help.
 

TDICADDGUY

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Location
Blaine, MN
TDI
2012 BMW X5 35D
Wow...I hope you're replacing the pan.

I've never had any problems like that with dropping the pan. Did you try putting a crescent wrench on the ball-end allens? Otherwise a 3/8 ratchet, long extension, u-joint and 10mm socket should have at least gotten them broken loose so you could use the ball-ends.

U-joint too wobbly? Good trick for that is to wrap some electrical tape around it to stiffen it up some.
 

paramedick

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor
Joined
Jul 29, 2001
Location
Versailles, Kentucky
TDI
2015 Audi Q5 TDI
My bad, I meant metalnerd. Sorry. Never had problems using this tool.

Part MNQ6H5 - Wobble Oil Pan Bit

This extra long double-end tool is necessary for removing the two hard-to-reach oil pan screws on many late model VW® and Audi® engines. Hex-ball end (5 mm) fits 5 mm hex drive pan screws utilized on TDI from 1999 onward (ALH code), 2.0 liter gas engines and any others with a 5 mm hex socket drive. This ball-hex bit also fits early TDI (1996-1998) 1Z and AHU engines codes that have screws with 6 spline drive.

Check out this clarification of usage.
Not for impact tool usage.
Extra long 200 mm overall length has a removable 3/8" square drive. Top quality Metalnerd Brand made from S2 tool steel.

Shipping is not included in the cart pricing, however, shipping is not free. We calculate shipping and add it to your order total before we process your credit card. If you want a shipping quote make a note in the comments section of the cart and we will provide a quote before we process your order. For more information read our policies.
Price: $12.00​

 
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Teedy Eye

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Location
Vancouver, WA
TDI
2000 Golf GLS
Cool Tool

That metalnerd item would have probably done the trick. The crux of the problem I had is that at first we lacked the right mm size hex key and tried to use an SAE version. This stripped out the hex socket. The 10 mm bolthead facings were likewise boogered before I got to them by a well-meaning but inexperienced teenage mechanic helper.

And yes, this is all for a pan replacement job. Even so it was a bold move, if I say so myself, to apply a sawzall to the oilpan.

Oil's well that end well. On to the next challenge...
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Location
Boise, Idaho
TDI
2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
Teedy Eye said:
Man, this took waaaay too long! The ball-end allen wrench worked on one of them. On the other I tried everything I had. I even took my sawzall and cut away the little divider flanges to give me a little more access room. Finally, to make a long story short, I cut a slot across the head of the bolt with a cold chisel., then did some custom grinding on a wood drill bit that was 1/2" wide, hooked this up with some extensions/adaptors to an air impact wrench and even though it shattered it broke the bolt loose. Then I was able to use a Craftsman wrecked-bolt-remover to finish it. When I got the bolt out it looked really baaaad!

Lessons learned.

Thanks for the help.
Replace the oil pan and DO NOT attempt to re-use it with the webbing cut.

The engine since it is hung from the engine mounts puts a lot of stress in this region of the motor and is always trying to pull the engine/transmission apart.

DB
 
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