What did you do to your MKIV today?

Judson said:

Well, the 1752 is on. Cost me an arm and a leg. Apparently the old turbo snapped its shaft at only half-throttle; it wasn't a WOT run. So, I had to pay for that cleanup, as well as a lot of custom fabrication.

However, the boost tube they fashioned up to go from the outlet to the intercooler isn't holding on. It blew off during a WOT run a couple of days ago. I just got underneath to confirm. They are using a ring clamp that doesn't seem to work, though it's a quality unit, and the tube is bent slightly off so it doesn't go on quite straight and true.

So, my question to all of you folks, where can I buy a hard rubber boost tube that is flexible enough to fit over the turbo outlet, in such a fashion that it will handle 28psi of boost without blowing off?

EDIT: A better question is, other than the correct type of ring clamp (they used the wrong one), is there a sealant of some sort that will work to help handle the boost?

BTW, the 1752 is AWESOME. Stock boost off the line, as responsive as stock, a lot more power mid and especially at the high range, where it just keeps making power. However, to fit it on your car at the least a custom intake will need to be made, as the entrace to the turbo from the airbox is on the passenger's side.

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Pictures will help us help you fix the problems you're having.

On my Vnt17 I use a CT clamp for ALL my boost line connections. Upgraded turbo outlet, upgraded cooler, stock upper charge air pipe, but all with CT clamps. Never had one fall off and I push 24psi when I reaaaally hammer it.

The turbo inlet pipe slipped off cause I hit a pothole, and there isn't a bead around the turbo inlet for the clamp to rest against...

Mozambiquer said:

We use constant torque hose clamps for the trucks I work on. Seems to hold up pretty well. They have springs to keep the torque constant even with fluctuations in temperature or pressure.

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Thanks. That's what they used. The problem was that as I attempted to ratchet it down tighter, it wanted to twist off the end of the turbo. While attempting to hold it in place, it would still torque really badly, and always slip off.

And as Nero Morg said, on this turbo there isn't a bead around the output for the host to clamp to hold on to...

Anyway, I have a standard hose clamp on there now. It wanted to do the same - twist off the end - but much less so., For now, it's on and holding better.

Unfortunately, I have a more serious problem: diesel exhaust is coming out the bottom of the engine, which means that, best case, the weld from the turbo to the downpipe went bad already. Worst case: there's something wrong with the turbo itself. I will be going for a test drive today or tomorrow after buttoning things up to find out if I have boost.

On another note, the little pull thing to open up the hood came off in my hand, and I can't figure out the trick to get the hood open now... Yeesh.

If the plastic piece is broken, it attaches to a metal lever. You can pull it with needle nose pliers.

Judson said:

On another note, the little pull thing to open up the hood came off in my hand, and I can't figure out the trick to get the hood open now... Yeesh.

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Yeah, that's not fun. If the plastic pull is totally gone you can get your fingers or a screwdriver up under the hood to push the safety latch over. Flashlight helps. Done it more times than I care to admit.

Yes, we had to reach up from underneath to release the latch.

Thanks folks I'll work on the latch... Fun for the holidays!

Judson said:

Thanks folks I'll work on the latch... Fun for the holidays!

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Then get one of these: https://tinyurl.com/ycyl3ekh, https://tinyurl.com/ybwgdzcz

Beetle work today - fixed the switch on the door latch, replacing the original with the sealed Omron switch with the lever. Success! Then replaced the Bilstein B4 struts with Sachs Mexico struts. Gained 3/4" easily in ground clearance using PowerFlex urethane strut top bushings, replacing the original rubber bushing. I used the same thing on my Jetta years ago and really like them. They didn't sag at all even after a few years.

romad said:

Then get one of these: https://tinyurl.com/ycyl3ekh, https://tinyurl.com/ybwgdzcz

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Oooh sweet!

OK, well, I'd post a pic, but I can't figure out how any more.

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/img_2487-jpeg.138597/

So above are two links to the pictures I uploaded around here.

The current pipe has a 4" piece of rubber on both ends, with a hard pipe in the middle. Very strange choice on their part!
If you can see the pic, you'll note I attempted to a standard hose clamp instead of the CF.

Here's a link to the turbo itself:


But you'll note that they carefully hide how short the output is. Still, if you can see my pics, there are ridges on the stubby little outlet, and it should hold boost if I can get the right pipe/clamp setup.

I believe now the issue is that hard pipe. I need a little more flexibility to get the hose onto the turbo outlet and clamp that sucker down good first, then enough flexibility to get it to the intercooler, with no stress at either end.

In sum, I need to replace the turbo to intercooler pipe. It's a 2" starting ID ending with a 2 1/4" ID at the intercooler with a 45 degree bend in the middle.

The turbo outlet points directly out towards the passenger side of the car, but the intercooler's intake end points about 45 degrees off towards the front of the car.

Anybody know where I can buy something like this? The local O'Reilly had a coolant hose, but it was 2" to 2". The intercooler is definitely 2 1/4"...

The diesel leak could be a lot of things. With the installed GTD1752VRK, could be the outlet band clamp...if that pup is not square in install position, stress could quite easily stress the clamp and cause a leak. In any case, looking forward to seeing a pic of the leak once you get it found.

Did you get a bottom of the turbo to the block mount executed( there is a spot to attach to the exhaust housing, but it most likely requires a fab'd bit o' steel to connect up to the block's boss)?
cheers,
Douglas

Shouldn't that pipe be flattened for wheel clearance and built with a mount to the body to hold it in place? When going from a moving engine to a body mounted bit you need some compliance. Hump hose is the usual means of accomplishing this. IC to hard pipe sure has no need to flex, but the hard pipe to the turbo will, and aside from being lined up so it is stress free at rest, it has to allow some movement of the engine.

Ultimately, an install costing, 'an arm and a leg' should be working perfectly. This install looks quite small potatoes, and since it is not working, don't forget to hold them responsible for getting it so.

A 1.8T pancake pipe, and some strategically ordered silicone hose, and good clamps should have that puppy working jus' fine.
cheers,
Douglas

Well my TIP slipped off..... Again.... So back to stock until I can fix it. Turns out one of the welds for a mount broke, so it's not rigid anymore

PakProtector said:

Shouldn't that pipe be flattened for wheel clearance and built with a mount to the body to hold it in place? When going from a moving engine to a body mounted bit you need some compliance. Hump hose is the usual means of accomplishing this. IC to hard pipe sure has no need to flex, but the hard pipe to the turbo will, and aside from being lined up so it is stress free at rest, it has to allow some movement of the engine.

Ultimately, an install costing, 'an arm and a leg' should be working perfectly. This install looks quite small potatoes, and since it is not working, don't forget to hold them responsible for getting it so.

A 1.8T pancake pipe, and some strategically ordered silicone hose, and good clamps should have that puppy working jus' fine.
cheers,
Douglas

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I agree on the body mounted bit. I am not willing to go back to them for this part because I think I can do it better, and besides, I need to have it hold some boost so I can drive it. But the broken weld on the exhaust side they will have to do for me - I ain't no welder.

I attempted to refit what they made, and the problem turns out that they made the hard pipe too short - meaning, even with the rubber parts as adapters, essentially, the whole shebang is too short. This does mean if I can find a longer piece of 2" rubber hose I should be able to get it back together enough to drive.

EDIT: Well, started first with the rubber boot part on the turbo, and got it clamped down HARD, then worked my way slowly from my left towards the intercooler on the right. So, she's buttoned up and holding boost now. Yay!

Forgot that my hood wasn't closed all the way since my latch is broken. Lost my front grill during the test run. Sigh. Still can't figure out how to get the hood released and up, or even back down. For another day.

....and got the hood up finally. Bought a new hood release lever from ECS, posted an add for a new used stock silver grill in the classifieds. Tomorrow I will put the belly pan back on, close the hood all the way and see how much boost she’ll hold. Gads I am a glutton for punishment but I want to know for certain she’ll hold so I can drive worry free...:

I broke it...
Really though really something happened today. I don't think it was that the seller had the car patched together with gum and tape and it broke on me because it had a neglected issue, no I think I mis-shifted and skipped the timing belt.

I think the timing is off now perhaps broken timing belt and ouch that's gonna be expensive isn't it if I don't do the work myself or find a local TDI aficionado to help me out.

Scenario was this; was coming to a quick stop was in a pretty high gear 3rd or 4th and was pretty close stopped before full disengagement of that gear. Engine shut down and I attempted to start twice and realize it's bad. Push car off road applied for AAA because I couldn't believe the previous owner having said he'd leave insurance on it for a week after sale, had it towed back to the Motel I've been the last few nights checked back in and dam I guess I suck! Pretty bad.

I never mis-shifted my Golf. I think I had an erroneous understanding of what the car could handle. I didn't realize the TDI needed to be shifted half as precisely as an F1 car... Of course I don't know what it is but that's what my gut mechanical instinct tells me though that's all I have to base on.

22 degrees outside, Started my 98 beetle to find diesel pouring out the Ip head seal. I put it in the garage and an hour and half later, new seal installed and on we go.

Cleaned and organized hatch. Found the semi-permanent home for the sub box. Easy enough to remove if I need to haul a refrigerator (maybe a kegerator). Amazing sound considering I’m still using 18 yo VW door speakers and Monsoon amp.

Cabin filter on the beetle, which then resulted in fixing broken plastic tabs. What's up with the contortions VW puts you through to get the filter out and in? My Jetta was a pain also.

When putting it all back together, I also lined all the plastic on plastic areas of the dash cover with felted tape. Hope this takes care of the rattles.

Buttoned things up and went for a long drive. Holding 23psi of boost with no trouble. (Max is 23psi - I'm guessing it's supposed to be 24psi, but my gauge is probably off by 1psi.) Stock boost response, hell of a midrange, pulls hard to redline, and, amazing, no smoke! Not even if you give it a lot of throttle in 6th gear will she smoke. Running .216s.

Next up is to purchase a 4bar MAP, and get an adjusted tune from Malone. Currently running 3bar MAP and stage 4/5 tune from Malone. I probably will leave it as is for a while though.

For my own edification, if you're someone who has an upgraded turbo, a 3-bar MAP and a Malone tune, is there any advantage to installing a 4-bar MAP?

benmarks said:

For my own edification, if you're someone who has an upgraded turbo, a 3-bar MAP and a Malone tune, is there any advantage to installing a 4-bar MAP?

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You'll have to get it returned to work correctly. And even then, you won't need it unless you're pushing more than like 28ish psi.

tdihopeful said:

Scenario was this; was coming to a quick stop was in a pretty high gear 3rd or 4th and was pretty close stopped before full disengagement of that gear. Engine shut down and I attempted to start twice and realize it's bad. Push car off road applied for AAA because I couldn't believe the previous owner having said he'd leave insurance on it for a week after sale, had it towed back to the Motel I've been the last few nights checked back in and dam I guess I suck! Pretty bad.
I never mis-shifted my Golf. I think I had an erroneous understanding of what the car could handle. I didn't realize the TDI needed to be shifted half as precisely as an F1 car... Of course I don't know what it is but that's what my gut mechanical instinct tells me though that's all I have to base on.

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Something else was wrong. Because of the low end torque on a TDI you can be a super lazy shifter and still get decent driveability. Obviously lugging it to a stall isn't helpful, but who hasn't stalled their 5spd before?

Rapid Transit said:

Cleaned and organized hatch. Found the semi-permanent home for the sub box. Easy enough to remove if I need to haul a refrigerator (maybe a kegerator). Amazing sound considering I’m still using 18 yo VW door speakers and Monsoon amp.

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Love those trunk blocks! - the plastic holders on the trunk floor. Where did you get those?

Nero Morg said:

You'll have to get it returned to work correctly. And even then, you won't need it unless you're pushing more than like 28ish psi.

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That's actually an interesting point. I believe it's not simply math - there are overboost protections built into the cpu, among other things. Owain told me that in order to run 26-28 I'd need a 4-bar MAP. I completely believe him, of course, I just don't understand the math/details behind it.

Judson said:

Love those trunk blocks! - the plastic holders on the trunk floor. Where did you get those?

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These are identical to the VW branded cargo blocks available with the MK7 Golf.
Amazon Cargo Blocks

The trunk blocks come with the Gorilla Gear trunk/hatch liner on VWs. NLA for MKIVs.

tdihopeful said:

I broke it...
Really though really something happened today. I don't think it was that the seller had the car patched together with gum and tape and it broke on me because it had a neglected issue, no I think I mis-shifted and skipped the timing belt.

I think the timing is off now perhaps broken timing belt and ouch that's gonna be expensive isn't it if I don't do the work myself or find a local TDI aficionado to help me out.

Scenario was this; was coming to a quick stop was in a pretty high gear 3rd or 4th and was pretty close stopped before full disengagement of that gear. Engine shut down and I attempted to start twice and realize it's bad. Push car off road applied for AAA because I couldn't believe the previous owner having said he'd leave insurance on it for a week after sale, had it towed back to the Motel I've been the last few nights checked back in and dam I guess I suck! Pretty bad.

I never mis-shifted my Golf. I think I had an erroneous understanding of what the car could handle. I didn't realize the TDI needed to be shifted half as precisely as an F1 car... Of course I don't know what it is but that's what my gut mechanical instinct tells me though that's all I have to base on.

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I'd try to get a little more than just gut feel, though random dying without restarting could be a timing belt issue. Did you pull the cover and look at it? I've seen way too many with improperly installed tensioners that cause it to be too loose and it jumps, or poor quality components/too long interval causing it to fall.

Just to clarify, you don't need to Gorilla Gear trunk liner to use the blocks. They velcro just fine to the original liner, at least on a Jetta. I assume the Golf is a similar material.

I evidently chased non-existent electrical gremlins for a half-hour:
Leaving work, my headlights wouldn't come on. It was getting dark fast and figured I needed something to light my way: flipped to high-beams. They blipped on and went dark. ***! Figured I had some screwed up electrical problem. Had a co-worker lead me home, driving with flashers.
Pulled into the garage and started digging into fuses, switches, etc., finding nothing wrong. Checked voltage at the bulbs (Something I should have done to begin with) and measured battery voltage. Checked bulb resistance.... open-circuit. On Every Single Bulb!!
Through some mystical act of Volkswagen, all four headlight bulbs popped at the same time!
To add to the frustration, I drove past 4 different auto parts stores on my way home without thinking that I would need a bulb... Let alone FOUR!
Got a ride to the nearest Autozone, swapped the bulbs, and everything works again...

Easily the most frustrating/annoying/dumb-founding "repair" I have ever done.