Fuse 32 keeps blowing, car shuts off

I have a 1999 Golf TDI with automatic transmission. I took the car over from someone who had lost her trust in the vehicle when it died on her. The car had not run for two years, and when I got it, I checked a few things with my VAG-COM and found the following...fuse 32 was blown, no glow plug light, no power at shutoff valve. Did some searching here and narrowed the problem to a bad ECM. Borrowed one from a buddy's car, and it worked. Ordered one up and installed it and recoded it for my car's auto transmission, and all seemed well. I test drove it and it started to exhibit a very rough, rump rump rump idle and when I try to go down the street now, it keeps blowing fuse #32 once again. I have changed all fluids and filters on the car, and checked the resistance between the following pins on the injection pump.
1-2 = 6.3 ohms
2-3 = 6.4 ohms
4-7 = 1.372 k.ohms
5-6 = 1.0 ohms
I am also coming up with code 17970, quantity adjuster (N146) Upper limit reached, intermittent...which started to come up when the fuse started blowing and cannot be cleared. What I need to know is if there is any relation between the quantity adjuster and the fuse #32, and is this something I need to spend more money on an injection pump to fix???

Fuse 32 only goes to the quantity adjuster and the ECM. 15A fuse.

Since 5-6 is 1.0 ohm it is within spec (0.5-2.5).

With power off and fuse 32 removed,
Check the resistance from "cold" side of fuse 32 to ECM plug pins 2 and 28. There shoud be continuity. With the ECM plug off the ECM verify that those two wires don't ground out.

Check for continuity between pump pin 6 and ECM plug 59, 66 and 80. They should not ground out either when the disconnected from the ECM.

Check for continuity between pump pin 5 and fuse 32 "cold side". It should not ground out.

Did this ever get resolved? I am having the exact same problem. 2002 Jetta GLS, manual, 166k miles.
It had a 30 amp fuse installed at #32. I have owned the cars since 2005 and have never had to mess with this fuse. I assumed it came with the 30 amp fuse from the factory. 1st time it blew, I had just filled up and went through a car wash. In another post I had thought the motor was toast but after looking into it further, found out it was this fuse. The car has been off the road since Thanksgiving and I start it up every few weeks and take it around the block. Tonight on a second pass around the block I heard the fuse blow and it died. Managed to coast close enough to the house to where I could push it home. Put another fuse in it, started it up and put it back in the garage. I will try checking these pins as listed above unless there is a certain cause of this in the past 13 years I have a 109 on order, don't think it has ever been changed. BTW, I still get the glow plug light when this fuse is blown, which from what I have read is correct. If no GP light then this relay would be bad?

Check that your ASV harness hasn't rubbed through on the intake manifold. Had it rub through on mine and would intermittently blow that fuse.

Anti shutter valve? The solenoid is mounted to the metal part of the intake but the harness runs over plastic part of intake and has clips holding the harness in few places on the plastic intake. Don't see anything obvious yet other than I need to change vacuum hoses again. That ASV harness branches from the N75 and the other solenoid N? I guess I can examine all harness that touch metal. I need to yank the battery and check how the grounds are doing. The point where I know i have wire issues is the trunk wire for the latch, where it folds when you close it. That went out a years or so ago and I soldered it back together but it went out again a few months ago. Looks like license plate lights out too because of this. I jiggled that harness around where it folds after I parked in the garage tonight so see if that would have any affect but it did not seem to do anything while running. I will fix this soon too. Thanks for the tip.

The trunk lid harness shouldn't have any affect on that fuse popping. I just know from personal experience that the ASV harness can rub through and blow the same deal. VW set it up that the ASV, EGR, and turbo control valve have constant power to them, but modulate the ground to control them. So I suppose any one of them can cause the fuse to pop.

OK, Thank you, I'll have a look at all those areas.

I went through the same sort of problem quite a while back and the wires chafe in places you would not think to look in. When it comes to our aging cars the wires and looms are tired just like everything else...

Forgot to mention that right before the fuse blew, I had got on it and about a block later it started to either shutter or miss and then I heard the fuse snap.

We are finally getting some week long rain here in CA and work and kids school activities get in the way I'll see if I can get a better look at wire harnesses over the weekend, maybe even do the pin outs like above.

Fixit

Did this ever get resolved?

My car won't start either so I am going the electrical stuff.
I found Fuse 32 has a 30 amp fuse in it and is not blown and no CEL's.

-If I put a 15 amp back in and try to start will it pop or cause a fault?
-What are the ramifications to the ECM and QA from someone doing this (I'm the new owner)?

GlacialFlower said:

Did this ever get resolved?
My car won't start either so I am going the electrical stuff.
I found Fuse 32 has a 30 amp fuse in it and is not blown and no CEL's.
-If I put a 15 amp back in and try to start will it pop or cause a fault?
-What are the ramifications to the ECM and QA from someone doing this (I'm the new owner)?

Click to expand...

You might want to start a new thread for your issue, being as this one is 14 years old...