Balance Shaft Delete Kit?

Wife finished off our 2005 Passat TDI, blow by looks like a locomotive, and we went out and found a good used motor to replace it with. With the new used motor I was thinking deleting the balance shaft assy. while the motor is on the engine stand. I see all kinds of prices on kits, what is a good one that will not break the bank?
Thanks
Kyle

Got mine from Aaron at bora parts (now cascadegerman.com) I got the "deluxe" kit with the timing belt components. Just make sure you plug the balance shaft oil supply hole in the block. Hardest part is getting the old gear off the crank.

I got mine from Aaron as well:

http://www.cascadegerman.com/product/vw-b5-5-bhw-passat-tdi-deluxe-balance-shaft-delete-kit/

I like the ability to add the needed tap etc. I bought the special tools and pullers to do the job as well.

IDparts also has a good kit:

http://www.idparts.com/balance-shaft-delete-kit-bhw-p-3161.html

They aren't apples to apples kits, as you will need a TB with the idparts kit.

Go with the ALH style balance shaft delete kit from Bora ( cascade).
Very reputable place to buy parts.

Yep, go with Aaron.

If you have an air hammer, the old gear comes of the crank in about 5 secs.

vwztips said:

If you have an air hammer, the old gear comes of the crank in about 5 secs.

Click to expand...

Doing my delete this weekend...do you just chisel right on the gear (on the teeth)? Anyone have video or pics of this? Thanks!

You need to get as close to the center of the gear without hitting the crank. You will need to remove the front crank bearing cap for better access. Then turn the crank 90 degrees counter clockwise. Hitting it with a hammer and chisel will take a while as you can't get a full swing at it. I did that on my first couple and then switched to the 5 second air hammer. If you have a compressor go to harbor freight and pick up a cheap air chisel. Otherwise you will be making up new German cuss words......

^ This is what I did. removed the front bearing cap and air chiseled it off. As above, be careful not to score the crankshaft.

A word of caution on the install of the ALH windage tray on the BHW. There are no recesses in the passenger side of the oil pan for the tabs that hold the windage tray in place. If you simply place the windage tray in position and install the pan, it cannot set flush to the block to make a seal. The tabs must be trimmed to fit before installing the pan.

Just completed the delete on my son's '05 Wagon yesterday. It ran smoother after the delete and seemed to rev with less effort. Not much of a surprise after seeing for myself what a mechanical monstrosity the BSM is. His car has shed at least 25 pounds of potentially detrimental metal.

Yes it revs easier AND you should gain 1-2 MPG

Maybe change tandem pump gasket and the temperature setup while the engine is out.

Can anyone tell me since I have a known good spare ALH parts engine, should I use components off it and source the rest of the delete parts? Is the BRM chain and sprocket better than the ALH? I noticed Cascade sells it as an option in his kits

I don't know which is better (ALH vs. BRM) perhaps Oilhammer will opine on that. But, to my way of thinking, if your going to all the trouble to do a BSM delete for goodness sake use all new parts, not parts from a used engine.

I used a zip wheel on side grinder to take off old gear. Went about 1/2 to 3/4 way thought then hit with chisel punch and my b.f.h. popped right off. No need to remove main cap. To install i baked new gear at 450 for 15 min then slid on like it was covered in owl poo.

I had an air hammer but lack the cfm on the home compressor to run it.

I think brm supplies more oil pressue or volume than the alh, not necessary for a stock BHW even with stage 2 tune.

I used Cascade German for a delete last winter. Happy with their deluxe kit.

I thought the BRM upgrade couldn't hurt supplying more oil to the camshaft. In the kit they both use the same oil pump. The BRM upgrade is a smaller cog that spins the pump faster. Then chain that fits different ratio.

I also put in an oil pressure gauge. I think 20 psi at hot idle is what I see after more than an hour of summer highway driving.

That pesky old gear came off best for me with a hand chisel and BFH. The gear is brittle and a few hits by hand did better than an air chisel here. The hand chisel was pointed straight at the crank to cause a crack on the gear. Perpendicular. The air chisel from the rear at a steep angle didn't work, with the bearing cap off. Did slide any.

I think it helps to have a grinder groove first for the hand chisel to go into. Like PickleRick did.

Suggest an oil pump not a good spot for used parts. I guess good used ALH pump would go for a while though.

I just deleted mine and bought BRM kit from Kermatdi.com. Kit was great and it came with the extra bolts for the crank cap and such. Be careful the piston doesn't slide down and get stuck. Had that happen and ended up tearing of the head. Wasn't to bummed though, cause then I got a good look at the piston walls and inspected the cam bearings while I was at it since mine failed while running. Remember to replace the engine mounts while your at it if they're leaking. Also, might want to do timing belt too. Buy one with a metal water pump impeller, like from dieselgeek. I made my own tool to lock the crank out of L channel. Took 10 bucks in L-channel and 20 minutes to drill. Worked great. Good luck!