Take a listen: DMF failing?

Hi all.

Yet another "please help diagnose my dmf via youtube" post.

It's a new-to-me mk5 2006 jetta sedan, 120k.

Idle has a rattling, marbles in a can noise. Still need to eliminate serp belt and a couple other things, but made a recording in case this is a no brainer for someone who's heard a lot of them.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tIpmPOpWpt8&feature=youtu.be
Filmed just under drivers side fender and in front of it.

Just did the 40k service and I think it made the noise more pronounced (dsg filter fluid, oil, air, fuel filter etc).

Also, I'm seeing the luk092 dmf on a certain site for $309 after a %5 discount; seems pretty damn cheap, but I'd rather keep supporting our vendors here.

Definitely DMF.

Sounds almost exactly like mine did when I bought mine. I initially thought that I had a piece if my exhaust loose. Mine was around $1000 to replace.

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Doogie21 said:

Definitely DMF.

Sounds almost exactly like mine did when I bought mine. I initially thought that I had a piece if my exhaust loose. Mine was around $1000 to replace.

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$1000 to replace the dmf, or the dsg after catastrophe? Curious if your mechanic mentioned how close to exploding it was once it was pulled out.

In other words: How long do I have?!?

I'll be doing the work myself, in all it's knuckle busting glory. No trans jack, but I've done other transmissions on TDis with an engine support bar.

Mine sounded a bit less than in the video and had this much play in it:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ng9fy2flwy8p162/VID_20170912_141254.mp4?dl=0

I don't know how much longer it would have lasted, it had sounded the same for quite a while when I replaced it.

Playing Russian roulette. How long? No one can tell you.

120k? Was the timing belt/etc. changed prior to purchase?

tdiatlast said:

Playing Russian roulette. How long? No one can tell you.

120k? Was the timing belt/etc. changed prior to purchase?

Click to expand...

Big reason for purchase was a full timing belt/tensioners/rollers, water pump, etc job by a tdi savvy mechanic right at 100k. Didn't hear dmf during my inspection; perhaps it was warmed up enough on already warm afternoons (2). Had a 2010 with a rattle, but "boughtback" to vw before worry set in.

Still can make this a good purchase after diy dmf. It's been hard to for me to not have a tdi for the last 10 years, regardless of costs to maintain. Doesn't help break the habit when one loves to always be tinkering.

nokivasara said:

Mine sounded a bit less than in the video and had this much play in it:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ng9fy2flwy8p162/VID_20170912_141254.mp4?dl=0
I don't know how much longer it would have lasted, it had sounded the same for quite a while when I replaced it.

Click to expand...

Wow. Now I'm chomping at the bit to see how much play I've got in mine. Such a difference in mine between cold idle and warmed up or even just warm day (was hot here in socal in prev weeks when purchased/inspected).

Did you diy, or mechanic outsource? If diy, any personal tips? I know, plenty to read here and plenty of tips already, just curious of your experience.

Cheers

Replace the DMF. I probably spent more than than I could have but went with a reputable VW mechanic that had done a bunch of them and I knew would not mess something up and trash my DSG.

I don't know that there is an accurate way to tell how close to failure it is based off of sound. I have heard of them exploding and have also heard of them being so sloppy that the car just stops moving.

Either way i didn't want to take any chances and had it replaced as soon as I knew exactly what it was and he could get me worked in.

Good news is, now you just have a cam and turbo to look forward to replacing at some point in the future.

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Meant cost was to replace the DMF, no damage to the DSG.

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emeraldzippy said:

Wow. Now I'm chomping at the bit to see how much play I've got in mine. Such a difference in mine between cold idle and warmed up or even just warm day (was hot here in socal in prev weeks when purchased/inspected).

Did you diy, or mechanic outsource? If diy, any personal tips? I know, plenty to read here and plenty of tips already, just curious of your experience.

Cheers

Click to expand...

I did it myself, it was on my Skoda which is very similar to a mk5 Golf. It being a 4x4 did make it a 2 day job for me. I tried to remove the gearbox with the transfer box attached without taking the subframe off but that didn't work, the 6-speed box is too long and bulky.
It may work in a fwd Golf but the subframe is very easy to remove so if it helps even a little it's worth it. Just replace the bolts and do an alignment afterwards...
I did the job in a little one-car garage with a trolley jack to support the box and a helper when taking the box down and putting it back up.
I replaced the clutch too but even at 250k km it was in very good shape with lots of miles left in it so if you don't mind removing the box later on for a clutch (or another DMF ) you might get away with just a DMF at this stage.

The job is quite easy, no need to remove the axels, just take them off from the gearbox and tie them up and away. There's plenty of room when the airbox and battery is removed.
I needed a long/deep 18mm socket for one of the gearbox/block screws, not sure if that's for the MT6 only.
I did not drain the gearbox, mostly because I had forgotten to get oil and didn't want to postpone the job...

Done. Thanks all. There's a plethora of info here, like always, though not always condensed. I did this repair on jacks in a garage with an engine support bar on my 2006 brm pd. I wanted to add a couple things I encountered along the way, but struggled to find existing info on.

-It's true you don't need to remove drive axles, but I chose/had to undo to three bolts attaching the knuckle to the control arm; popped it off and had enough swing for clearance.

-Crossmember stayed on, no alignment needed, as stated elsewhere. But it sssssssucked. Getting it out was only slightly tricky, but reentry ate up enough time and spinal health that I wouldn't do it again that way. I would have done my manual 1997 Passat twice over before this approach again.

-had just changed dsg fluid, so I didn't drain and only leaked a tad from the flipped cooler, and when the tranny came out all kaddywhompus sideways upsidedown. The biggest spill came from the little black (vent?) cap above the electrical twist-off connector. I ended up taking it off, and rubberbanding a plastic bag over it.

-the passenger axle flange is your biggest foe for exit and reentry; leading with it, up and back, and getting it behind the lip of the bell housing is your obscene journey. I almost destroyed (aka flagrantly bent) the aluminum flange around the flywheel, which only hindered remounting.

-torque values for my exact car proved elusive; I had to piece together TTY values for my exact approach and bolt kit I got from idparts (it's basic, not for subframe dropping I believe).

There are more little things that might pop up from memory to add later.

But most importantly, SHE'S PURRING QUIET LIKE A KITTEN. And pickup off the line is better. But I also did an egr delete, so may be combinative. Love this forum. Donate and buy license plate frames, people!!

I am planning on replacing my DMF this coming week, after work each night. I have a 2005 Jetta BRM. 156,000 miles. My real question is What is the torque on DMF bolts to the crank?
Thanks, Jim