new to me 2005 passat issues

santacll · May 18, 2020

bad news
1, when you push the pedal from a stop it take a noticeable delay before all of a sudden it jumps off like a scared rabbit. so search indicates that this was happening from new but i haven't found a solution. would an ecu flash deal with this, or is it possible that the trans is low on oil and its taking a while to get the oil to the torque converter?

anyone know what the fix was?

oilhammer · May 19, 2020

Not sure if you are describing normal operation or what. The BHW is pretty laggy off the line compared to some other TDIs. The B5s have an enormous (long as well as volume) charge air tract that needs to be compressed before the boost gets to the engine. The slushbox doesn't exactly help this. But it is hardly a nuisance. And nothing like the lag of some other (older) turbodiesels.

santacll · May 19, 2020

oilhammer said:
Not sure if you are describing normal operation or what. The BHW is pretty laggy off the line compared to some other TDIs. The B5s have an enormous (long as well as volume) charge air tract that needs to be compressed before the boost gets to the engine. The slushbox doesn't exactly help this. But it is hardly a nuisance. And nothing like the lag of some other (older) turbodiesels.

oilhammer; i know there were not fast to respond since i just sold a good one, but this thing has no response of the line and then all of a sudden it jumps

Mozambiquer · May 19, 2020

santacll said:
oilhammer; i know there were not fast to respond since i just sold a good one, but this thing has no response of the line and then all of a sudden it jumps

Mine is doing that randomly now. It feels kinda like my brm when the turbo vanes were sticking. I'm going to be looking into it soon to see why it's doing that.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

santacll · May 19, 2020

so i have been sleuthing and it have found there was a ecu flash to cure the delay throttle response,. since the thread is really old i can't seem to find a copy of the actual TSB, so i can take it to the dealer, to have it checked.

when you log in with VCDS what ecu revision should it show?

Mozambiquer · May 19, 2020

santacll said:
so i have been sleuthing and it have found there was a ecu flash to cure the delay throttle response,. since the thread is really old i can't seem to find a copy of the actual TSB, so i can take it to the dealer, to have it checked.

when you log in with VCDS what ecu revision should it show?

I did a search on identifix and didn't find any tsb for that, I did find one for the cars with a dsg transmission.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

santacll · May 19, 2020

based on previous posts, i installed a mass airflow sensor... as a test. short test seem to be positive,, thinking that an ecu flash and a new MAS should fix this a well as it can be fixed...

Mozambiquer · May 19, 2020

Ecu flash as in tune? That may help. [emoji16]

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

santacll · Jun 3, 2020

diagnostic run ! need turbo

a week ago EGR cleaned it was not completely closed. checked it today ~ just as thin sliver open.

n75 valve providing boast signal to turbo = kaput. replaced, now better but still a bit laggy

vacuum not consistent, looks like the tandem pump is leaking and the connection is bad on the vacuum side.

last item, the turbo isn't spooling quite like it should, with the engine running it looks there3 is soot coming out the actuator rod ,.

so i have to consider cost for a tandem pump and a new(er) turbo. tandem pump is of the shelf who is the goto for a turbo?

Matt-98AHU · Jun 3, 2020

santacll said:
a week ago EGR cleaned it was not completely closed. checked it today ~ just as thin sliver open.

n75 valve providing boast signal to turbo = kaput. replaced, now better but still a bit laggy

vacuum not consistent, looks like the tandem pump is leaking and the connection is bad on the vacuum side.

last item, the turbo isn't spooling quite like it should, with the engine running it looks there3 is soot coming out the actuator rod ,.

so i have to consider cost for a tandem pump and a new(er) turbo. tandem pump is of the shelf who is the goto for a turbo?

I'd start with just the pump for now and re-evaluate. Not entirely uncommon to see a small bit of soot escaping from the VNT lever in the center cartridge as these age, so long as there isn't a significant amount of slop in the arm, it's likely just fine.

But for sure, low vacuum supply will absolutely cause a delayed response since the highest boost position of the VNT mechanism is with max vacuum applied. You have less vacuum supply than it was meant for, the turbo definitely does not spin up as quick since the actuator will not get into the correct position to get the best response from the turbo.

santacll · Jun 3, 2020

Matt-98AHU said:
I'd start with just the pump for now and re-evaluate. Not entirely uncommon to see a small bit of soot escaping from the VNT lever in the center cartridge as these age, so long as there isn't a significant amount of slop in the arm, it's likely just fine.

But for sure, low vacuum supply will absolutely cause a delayed response since the highest boost position of the VNT mechanism is with max vacuum applied. You have less vacuum supply than it was meant for, the turbo definitely does not spin up as quick since the actuator will not get into the correct position to get the best response from the turbo.

thanks my thought too after some time to assess;

its the floppy output connection, i know some have been able to seal it, and spending money wildly on a car i didn't even need, will irritate the boss who's only comment was "we're not eating mac/cheese and weiners so you can fix cars..."

Mozambiquer · Jun 3, 2020

I went with fcp Euro for my tandem pump.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

santacll · Jun 20, 2020

Matt-98AHU said:
I'd start with just the pump for now and re-evaluate. Not entirely uncommon to see a small bit of soot escaping from the VNT lever in the center cartridge as these age, so long as there isn't a significant amount of slop in the arm, it's likely just fine.

But for sure, low vacuum supply will absolutely cause a delayed response since the highest boost position of the VNT mechanism is with max vacuum applied. You have less vacuum supply than it was meant for, the turbo definitely does not spin up as quick since the actuator will not get into the correct position to get the best response from the turbo.

Update; installed a new tandem pump, car runs better now, i still get a some black smoke at slow speed most often just before the shift into second gear. Also pulled the intake manifold and cleaned it, can't really say that it much of a change....

I am also still getting a p0101 usually when decelerating from highway cruising speed say about 75kmph, tried a new MAF but that did not help, any suggestions?

Is this possibly related to the EGR valve?

Smokerr · Jun 21, 2020

You are replacing a lot of parts and supposedly gaining on it, I am going to be a wet blanket and tell you doing it that way is all wrong.

The lag you are talking about the ECU flash are irrelevant for what you describe. It was a bit of improvement but not leaps and bounds. Easy throttle use and you could not tell.

Do an email search on a medial symptom and you can have 100 different diseases. If you live in Barrow AK its not going to be malaria, Ebola etc.

That is what is happening, you need to focus and test in one area and confirm or refute or turn over to a mechanic (or keep spending money replacing good parts)

If I was guessing (and then testing) it would be the Turbo, the N75 is one possible issue but the vanes sticking are also a common failure there.

Many places you can get an estimate for repair, so you don't pay for them guessing either.

santacll · Jun 21, 2020

Smokerr said:
You are replacing a lot of parts and supposedly gaining on it, I am going to be a wet blanket and tell you doing it that way is all wrong.

The lag you are talking about the ECU flash are irrelevant for what you describe. It was a bit of improvement but not leaps and bounds. Easy throttle use and you could not tell.

Do an email search on a medial symptom and you can have 100 different diseases. If you live in Barrow AK its not going to be malaria, Ebola etc.

That is what is happening, you need to focus and test in one area and confirm or refute or turn over to a mechanic (or keep spending money replacing good parts)

If I was guessing (and then testing) it would be the Turbo, the N75 is one possible issue but the vanes sticking are also a common failure there.

Many places you can get an estimate for repair, so you don't pay for them guessing either.

not to burst your bubble, but the diagnostics was done by a trusted vw shop.

and the n75 was dead. that was confirmed by vacuum test , and the tandem pump was also not pulling full vacuum , the outlet connecter was wobbling like a german after 20 beer...

would a sticking turbo result in p0101 codes?, i would accept that may be the cause of the black smoke at light load...

Smokerr · Jun 21, 2020

My apologies. That is an amazing list of things gone wrong.

A big bog tends to a turbo issue but as noted, other causes.

Gets iffy with smoke, more FI issue though that can get into the sensors ( MAP etc) as also noted.

Can also be an injector ops issue.

I always wondered what would get beat up if the eaten up glow plug had broken off (one was half way eaten through when they pulled them at my first insistence)

Funny part was the first time I had to fight to get them to do it (if no issues I will pay for it) then they changed them two more times when in for other service issue. Well we just are not sure...... uhhh you have the records, well still................... Ok, whatever, change em every 5k if it makes you happy.

santacll · Jun 21, 2020

The PO drove it like a fridge, (its still running no problem) except for quicky oil changes with a 5w40 oil. so I'm guessing when the check-engine light came on the dealer probably rang them up a very stiff estimate, at which point the parked it, now 2 yrs later it seems they cannot find any dealer service records or estimates for needed work, hence it landed in my lap.. its an orphan looking for a home.

the repeatable check engine lite and -p0101 code triggered when slowing down from highway speeds, must have a specific origin,... just not sure where to start now.

the smoke could easily be injectors in need of cleaning, or possibly caked up turbo vanes and actuator..

zzdiesel · Jun 22, 2020

Has the cam been checked?

santacll · Jun 22, 2020

zzdiesel said:
Has the cam been checked?

i had a cursory look when i had the intake off....so that still needs to verified, i am going to do a brake load test and check for any leaks which have not shown up so far. the turbo air discharge dct is new, and when i cleaned the elbow at the flapper i saw no cracks or splits. so the intercooler and ducts are the next check items.

i also disconnected the EGR and did a power-on power-off test, and it did not respond. I have not found a vcds test setting to verify the egr operation.

can anyone tell me were to find it in vcds?

thanks

Matt-98AHU · Jun 23, 2020

Two most common causes of P0101 code on a BHW aside from the MAF itself?

Badly worn camshaft and...
A small boost leak. A boost leak small enough to not set a P0299 underboost code.

A small boost leak will also contribute to smoke during acceleration.

BHWs are known for boost leaks in their hoses, and not just the silly o ring connections.

Most common, the turbo outlet hose that goes between the turbo compressor outlet and the "cross tube" that runs along the underside of the radiator.

Second most common is the small elbow that goes from the upper intercooler pipe to the intake manifold/EGR/Anti shudder valve assembly.

I've seen the hose between intercooler and upper pipe rip and cause a leak as well, but that one seems to be much more rare. I have replaced the upper elbow mentioned above and the turbo outlet hose numerous times for boost leaks on various BHWs. Definitely not uncommon.

santacll · Jun 23, 2020

I spent some time today looking for the elusive small leak. the turbo hose is new, the hose to the intercooler was dirty but no signs of cracks or splits, the intercooler discharge end seems to fit quite loose, with the locking clip in place i can wiggle it about 1/8" out of the fitting,

also checked the top elbow into the flapper valve and no obvious signs . had the engine running under brake load and could not hear any hissing.

i ordered a new oring, to test but maybe tomorrow i'll try and substitute a different hose into the intercooler discharge end first, i may end up having to get a complete hose.

santacll · Jun 27, 2020

so i went back through the possible leak locations and sequentially fixed the seals on the intercooler outlet hose and the top elbow.

i no longer get a check engine light or emission workshop warning, but it is still setting the P0101 code.

i also tired to run the egr output test in VCDS, (ign on but engine not running, valve removed from manifold) the valve will buzz and show duty cycle 30% dropping but it but does not open.

feedback please.

Mozambiquer · Jun 27, 2020

santacll said:
so i went back through the possible leak locations and sequentially fixed the seals on the intercooler outlet hose and the top elbow.

i no longer get a check engine light or emission workshop warning, but it is still setting the P0101 code.

i also tired to run the egr output test in VCDS, (ign on but engine not running, valve removed from manifold) the valve will buzz and show duty cycle 30% dropping but it but does not open.

feedback please.

I'd check the powers and grounds to the EGR valve and make sure it's getting the correct voltage, but it kinda sounds like you could have a failed EGR valve.
I know that with mine removed (I'm deleting it but haven't tuned it yet) the EGR valve moves. If it's just making noise and not moving, I'd think it's probably failed. I may have one to sell soon...

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

Matt-98AHU · Jun 27, 2020

santacll said:
so i went back through the possible leak locations and sequentially fixed the seals on the intercooler outlet hose and the top elbow.

i no longer get a check engine light or emission workshop warning, but it is still setting the P0101 code.

i also tired to run the egr output test in VCDS, (ign on but engine not running, valve removed from manifold) the valve will buzz and show duty cycle 30% dropping but it but does not open.

feedback please.

Have you removed the valve cover to inspect for a worn camshaft yet?

santacll · Jun 27, 2020

just finished the cam check. looks like 3 lobes have wear down to the chamfer at the peak, and 3 have some wear on one side down to the chamfer as best i can make out. my old eyes won't focus that close and so had to use a magnifying monocular...

Matt-98AHU · Jul 1, 2020

santacll said:
just finished the cam check. looks like 3 lobes have wear down to the chamfer at the peak, and 3 have some wear on one side down to the chamfer as best i can make out. my old eyes won't focus that close and so had to use a magnifying monocular...

When cams get really badly worn, they create a backfeeding through the whole intake tract that the computer picks up with the MAF sensor and they do often times set that p0101 code as a result...

zzdiesel · Jul 2, 2020

If the cam lobes get worn it is very likely the corresponding lifter is also worn

santacll · Jul 2, 2020

the plan was to fix up the obvious issues with this orphan and then sell... so now the repairs have expanded way beyond plan,

the usual items would be changed; cam, brgs, lifters, seal and bolts, ,

will close this discussion, now need to find a canadian source for the kit. I want a BUDGET cam, but sadly it seems the chinese sourced stuff is way under quality...

recomendations?

Tom in PT · Jul 2, 2020

https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/038109101af-kit/

Matt-98AHU · Jul 2, 2020

santacll said:
the plan was to fix up the obvious issues with this orphan and then sell... so now the repairs have expanded way beyond plan,

the usual items would be changed; cam, brgs, lifters, seal and bolts, ,

will close this discussion, now need to find a canadian source for the kit. I want a BUDGET cam, but sadly it seems the chinese sourced stuff is way under quality...

recomendations?

When you go budget cam, just assume you will be replacing it again with the next timing belt interval...

new to me 2005 passat issues

Veteran Member

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor

Veteran Member

Vendor , w/Business number

Veteran Member

Vendor , w/Business number

Veteran Member

Vendor , w/Business number

Veteran Member

Loose Nut Behind the Wheel Vendor

Veteran Member

Vendor , w/Business number

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Loose Nut Behind the Wheel Vendor

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Vendor , w/Business number

Loose Nut Behind the Wheel Vendor

Veteran Member

Loose Nut Behind the Wheel Vendor

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Loose Nut Behind the Wheel Vendor