You now have options to repair or replace your BEW PD Lift Pump

Has anyone had any problems with these pumps, since you ll be left stranded if it fails.
Do they vary from each supplier.

BuzzKen said:

Installed my pump and everything works great. Thanks!

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hello ,did you wire it in directly or the old version ?

TDI WagonGuy I Hope you are watching this thread.

It looks like I'll need a new motor. Car was running fine till I changed the fuel filter. There is no resistance across the tabs going down into the pump. To me that means the brushes/commutator are shot.

Can you tell me if you will package and ship first thing tomorrow and how long it usually takes to get the parts in the U.S.? I'm not being pushy I just need to know so I can plan my week. Thanks.

I see the motors are out of stock. Any idea when they'll be available.

Ironray, posting here may be the slowest way to get in touch with him. A PM or Email would be best.

whitedog said:

Ironray, posting here may be the slowest way to get in touch with him. A PM or Email would be best.

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Yeah, I sent him an e-mail. Thanks.

DIY available on replacing the pump motor?

I haven't found a DIY on replacing the pump motor? Can you please direct me to it? Thanks B

moderator bump for page reset to push locked threads off front page.

Sent you a PM.

Is the replacement motor compatible with the BRM housing and/or wiring?

TheTDIWagonGuy; your website says that the lift pump motor is out of stock. Do you have any coming in?

I called him yesterday to inquire about this; he said the supplier he'd been getting them from no longer carries them. He's working on an alternate source and hopes to have it "soon" but that's likely a month or so out.

Drewmeister said:

I called him yesterday to inquire about this; he said the supplier he'd been getting them from no longer carries them. He's working on an alternate source and hopes to have it "soon" but that's likely a month or so out.

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thanks for the update Drewmeister.

Does anyone know if the BEW pump fits the BRM housing/sending unit?

I mean, can the BEW motor (to repair the pump) be used to repair a dead BRM pump?

...I don't think so. This pump (below) has 2 ports on the top side, one with a broad hose which seem the same as the BEW. The other hose is a narrow one that runs to the bottom of the assembly:

Ghastly said:

thanks for the update Drewmeister.

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I couldn't wait any longer, and bought the full lift pump from IDParts.
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=585

With the non-functional lift pump, I had a minor flat spot in the power delivery over 3000rpm in 3rd and 4th gears. The new pump fixed that up nicely!

Failed pump

OK so does anyone here know how long a typical lift pump should last? I ordered my pump in September of 2012 and got about 40,00km's and 16 months out of it before it left me stranded. just wondering if anyone else has had any issues with these replacements pumps. I'm not here to start trouble I'm just out a car and wondering if I should buy another pump or not.

My replacement pump failed 2 days ago, putting the wife (and some others) at risk due to traffic. I had about 40,000 km on it as well. I had another replacement on hand and installed it.......HOWEVER this new one is making some ungodly noises, which causes me real concern as to whether I dare turn her loose with the car.

This, combined with the dysfunctional fuel level reading of the full canister replacement has me wondering if I've made a mistake and should have bought better quality units. If I could only determine, with some precision, whose pump is better quality I would certainly go in that direction,

Where did you two order your replacement lift pumps from? Brand? Was it these from DefenderTech or something else?

They finally got the pump motors in stock and I ordered one but haven't installed it yet (maybe tonight... my old pump isn't dead, just lower flow than spec). Since my lift pump canister is the design that will flow fuel with a dead pump (I've tested it; the engine sounds like it has more load but keeps going) I prefer to keep it that way rather than the new pump canisters that will strand you if they die.

Long story shortened:
When my OEM pump failed, car continued to run just fine. Acting on suggestions, here and elsewhere, I ordered a replacement pump motor and then proceeded to re and re the pump motor. However I managed to break one of the hose spigots off the original pump canister so had to order a full replacement pump/canister.

That pump worked for about 40K km, with one interruption 6 months ago when the pump quit and on inspection I found a strand of what appeared to be steel wool jamming the intake. I tugged on the wire strand and it immediately ran once again.

Fast forward to 3 days ago and the wife was once again stranded in traffic with a dead pump. With the second replacement pump motor on hand I had the car running quickly. HOWEVER, this new pump motor is the noisiest (squealing and rough-sounding ) pump I have ever heard and I'm not comfortable sending the car out with her behind the wheel.

Lesson: Hang on to your original pump housing(or send it to me!!), careful with the spigots(it snapped off very easily) and I hope my experience isn't typical.
And, yes, this from DefenderTech, who has always responded well to email questions and who, I have no doubt, wishs that I had had better success with his parts.

Bought a replacement pump motor from him yesterday, Installed it today in the original canister . (2006 Golf TDI)
No issues, I found installing it was easy. I compared the old one to the new one. They are almost identical! (99%) The spade terminals, height, width, all exactly as per the original. It is quiet, I am very happy with it.
A really nice straight up guy, A pleasure to deal with.
Mike

What bore size/diameter pipe i need and what size clamps. I ca source new pump motor here in europe but comes without new pipe and clamps. Just to have info to start searching from for the new pipe and clamps.
Thanks in advance!

unless he has changed the replacement pump model the inlet boss must be trimmed or it will bottom out on the inlet screen restricting flow through the screen to the diameter of inlet boss ... this dramatically limits the pre-filter surface area and can lead to fuel starvation with very little debris present in the tank ... just a heads up, compare both pumps before installing the new one and modify if necessary!

wondering if the how to on replacing just the motor ever showed up? I can access and remove/install the entire assembly just fine, but a few tips or instructions on replacing the pump motor would be greatly appreciated.

osoonikum said:

What bore size/diameter pipe i need and what size clamps. I ca source new pump motor here in europe but comes without new pipe and clamps. Just to have info to start searching from for the new pipe and clamps.
Thanks in advance!

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you can reuse the old hose .... just apply a little heat with a pocket torch where it slips over the pump nipple .... same thing for reinstalling it

tkwyo12 said:

wondering if the how to on replacing just the motor ever showed up? I can access and remove/install the entire assembly just fine, but a few tips or instructions on replacing the pump motor would be greatly appreciated.

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Here are my thoughts:
Cleanliness, larger-than-you-think area set aside for work, have a heat gun handy for the hose softening(it's STIFF)
Take a few pics before dis-assembly and as you go.
There are very helpful pics/tutorials here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=225672

It's not difficult, just takes a bit of time and I highly recommend re-using the yellow canister if at all possible.....so just swapping the pump motor.

shuswap said:

Here are my thoughts:
Cleanliness, larger-than-you-think area set aside for work, have a heat gun handy for the hose softening(it's STIFF)
Take a few pics before dis-assembly and as you go.
There are very helpful pics/tutorials here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=225672

It's not difficult, just takes a bit of time and I highly recommend re-using the yellow canister if at all possible.....so just swapping the pump motor.

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Thanks for your link unfortunately I didn't see it until now. However I received the motor I purchased earlier this week, and was able to install it yesterday. Took maybe 80-90 minutes and a beer or two for the complete tear down and reinstall but I took a few extra parts off the pump assembly to for cleaning purposes. The motor I received works perfectly and there is a subtle hum now when turning the key prior to starting.

The car has more power, and starts way easier now with the new pump. The bump in power is especially noticeable on the highway in 5th.

Lots of clean space and clean rags are mainly what you need for this job. You hit the nail on the head with this one.

My one tip is to clean the contacts on the fuel sender and make sure to properly align the arrow during re-assembly of the car. I suspect now my fuel gauge should work much better.

On Wednesday my Jetta died pulling in the driveway (luckily I coasted right up on my garage apron!). So troubleshooting this AM it appears the replacement pump I put in winter of 11/12 is now dead (no noise when turning on the key). If I recall the replacement pump from Defendertech will cause the car to quit if it fails correct? Unlike the tan colored one I took out which was also failed but apparently the car will still run with the tan one failed.

In short: I should rebuild my tan pump or the one in the tank with a motor from Defendertech and be good to go correct?

abusedTDI, I'd agree with everything you said, fits with my experience.

In my case I managed to break one of the fuel-line connectors off the top of the original tan canister and spent a year looking for another used tan canister after I had installed the grey Defendertech fuel canister/pump combo.(which didn't last very long, BTW)

After assembly I tested the new-to-me tan canister and the engine died when I disconnected the power supply to the pump motor, so THIS particular canister didn't work like the one I managed to damage.
Oh well!

I should have also said in my post that I disconnect the return fuel line from the rail to the filter and when I turn on the key no fuel squirts. I am ordering a pump...

You would be able to hear the pump if it was working, they do hum a fair bit for the 1st 2-4 seconds. Just get someone else to turn the key while you plaster your ear to the top of the canister

It is definately dead