2010 2.0L CR TDI into a Jeep Wrangler- Wiring?

Okay, I'm looking for advice on installing a 2010 2.0L CR TDI into a 1999 Jeep Wrangler.

I have a deal on a 2010 CR TDI engine, engine wiring harness and ECU. It's from Jetta Sportswagon with manual transmission. It's been recommended to just bypass the engine for an ALH or BEW. I understand that many of you will agree, but I'm looking for an honest opinion from the guros out here with "how to" info on wiring a CR engine.

My plan:
TD Converserion adapter for the AX15, Malone stage 2, immo, dynamic idle, EGR delete, and DPF delete.

Again, I'm looking for how to wire a CR engine.

Easiest way, standalone computer!

Standalone computer

Who makes a 2010 CR TDI standalone ECU?

A standalone is nice but not required. A good tuner can set up your Bosch ECU to run the engine while it sits on pallet on the floor. That is pretty much standalone as it gets. That is how mine was set-up.

Intrigued; is there a standalone out there for these??

There are three primary options for after market standalone ecu. SCS Delta, Skynam and Bosch Motorsports. In USD, you are looking at approximately $1500, $3000 and $4000, respectively. Count on spending an additional $1500+ in professional tuning and setup assistance as there is no plug and play. Plus hundreds of hours of learning and experimenting with ecu and engine.
In contrast, you can buy OEM ecu and harness for about $200 and get tuner to set it up for may be around $600.

Good to know

Looks like OEM ECU is the way I will have to go.

I'm still engine searching and have been disappointed with searching on Craigslist. I've been looking for donar vehicles or engines. I looked at a BHW engine over the weekend but the engine was missing the turbo, had a few cracked covers, and antishudder broken at the flange. Another guy had a abused engine for cheap.

I reached out to Malone tuning and they recommended going with an older engine style vs the CJAA due to the wiring. And I was also recommended to put the older engine style by Coty Built because the CJAA engines are bigger and harder to package in the engine bay. I would prefer to use their Chrysler cluster module to connect to my jeep. So far while searching for an engine, I have learned more about the different tuning options. I've changed my mind to get dynamic when as the Minnesota winters. And still need to decide about the dynamic idle. Any advice...

We used to do the tuning for Coty and Keir, one of our employees, was very involved in developing the kit when he used to work for HPA along with a friend of his who is our electrician. They did do a standalone CR jeep awhile ago with a custom module, don't think they have tunes for that now though. My response when someone asks about standalone commonrail swaps is basically "are you sure you want to go down this road?" sorry if it comes off a little harsh, but they are very complicated motors compared to the older tech and it's not the kind of project I'd wish upon someone. The fuel pump failure rates alone are high enough to steer me clear of them for 4x4 use, and tolerance for ingesting junk or poor quality fuel is much lower. Have a few customers running them as swaps with immo defeat etc but nearly as many that're still fighting wiring gremlins a year later.

On the 2000-03 ALH ECUs (pre 2000 cannot be OBD2 flashed) Mark has setup a couple with high idles on the AC switch. Dave @ fastforwardinc up in Quesnel (hasenwerk on here http://forums.tdiclub.com/member.php?u=153131) wired them. Pretty easy to swap between ECUs, or use a handheld for flashing as well. If it's a daily rig I'd probably keep the MAF as well since it helps with smoke control and mileage, but have a separate tune with it deleted in case it failed off road.

A VNT17 setup with a 4" lift and 33s will lift a wheel off the ground fairly easily and makes about 50% more power below 3000rpm.

VNT15 VE: Gets you running with adequate power, slap some nozzles in and then decide if you want to give up a little bottom end for more mid/top end power.
BEW/brm: Smoother running, but be careful of the KP39s they're moody turbos, make sure you have a boost gauge
BHW: Probably best motor option we got this side of the pond. $1000 or so from junkers, comes with a VNT17, will make ~185-190HP/330-340lb-ft comfortably in stock configuration.

I would expect 26-32 MPG on any of the above. VEs get better fuel economy, are more flexible fuel wise, have fewer parts to fail, no worry about camshafts etc. The pump makes for a busy bay, which is why some opt for the cleaner PD install. I'd go PD given an unlimited budget, VE otherwise.

Owain@malonetuning- thank you for the honest opinion about the different engine options. I'm a DIYer and will be learning as I go. I do like the simplicity of going with the older engine and will continue searching for one.

Owain@malonetuning said:

A VNT17 setup with a 4" lift and 33s will lift a wheel off the ground fairly easily and makes about 50% more power below 3000rpm.

VNT15 VE: Gets you running with adequate power, slap some nozzles in and then decide if you want to give up a little bottom end for more mid/top end power.

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This makes me even more glad I stumbled upon an ALH from a 2000 Jetta (instead of a '99). The VE pump mechanism is ingeniously simple and with electronic control over the sleeve the simplicity is coupled with the advantages of of an ECU. Hard to beat that combo.

VNT17 sounds like the way to go too

50% more power over the AMC 4L that is. Depends on the application, the VNT15 makes better bottom end torque so if you're in stop and go or around 1500 all the time crawling then it will be more responsive. From 2500 on it's a whole different ball game, but it really boils down to how you want your power to build. Since it comes with a VNT15 I'd try that out first and see how you like it, the VNT17 is a bolt on solution if you want to upgrade down the road.

There's also smaller BV39 or VNT17 variations from Europe, but the standard VNT17 is readily available new with parts for under a grand. There's also the 1756, which has better newer vein tech. It'll be noticeably slower below 2200 compared to stock, but comfortably make another 40-50HP up top. Head studs would be a good idea at that point.

Have a couple locals running this turbo, 85 samurai and a nissan hardbody that's coming along well. The Sammy is a beast

https://www.facebook.com/MaloneTuning/videos/1633207956695600/
https://i.gyazo.com/986ac3764af644822dd65bd6e43c850d.jpg
https://i.gyazo.com/f60bb0facb92fe83ca48d13456a4229e.jpg
https://i.gyazo.com/ee50c133f980a33a91d39ecb652a5550.jpg

Stock motor will work just fine as well though. Mark runs a near stock AHU in his 93 eurovan, have no problem loading a half ton + in the back of it and holding 75mph.

Well since my donor car had 395,xxx on it and the turbo condition is a mystery I think I'll probably end up with a '17 as opposed to seeking out a replacement '15. 4.10s will take care of the low-end Thanks for the guidance!
/hijack

btw that Sami looks bad

That's my goal- a sweet tdi swap in my jeep. I want a change from low power and poor mileage (13mpg). I'll be happy if I double mileage! Anything over double will be amazing, still able to go on the trails on the weekend and get ice cream with the top down.

ozlowole said:

That's my goal- a sweet tdi swap in my jeep. I want a change from low power and poor mileage (13mpg). I'll be happy if I double mileage! Anything over double will be amazing, still able to go on the trails on the weekend and get ice cream with the top down.

Click to expand...

you very well could double your FE ... mine went from high teens/low twenties to 30 plus so a solid 50% increase ... i rarely get under 30