Engine Code: P0183 - Fuel Temp Sensor
- Thread starter jpdeuce
- Start date
Some clarification
1. Elsewhere in this post is says to unclip the sensor. In the above picture, that means pull the green clip out. The sensor is the piece with the wiring harness. Discard the base, no need to install it in the car -- all it does is provide a path for fuel to contact the sensor.
2. Unclip the defective sensor and discard it. Key point #1: don't remove the base already attached to the car, just the defective sensor. Key point #2: put some rags underneath the defective sensor before removing it to catch a small amount of diesel that'll leak out.
3. Optionally take the O-ring from the new base and replace the O-ring from the old base. Regardless, make sure there's exactly one O-ring in the base connected to the car or I'm guessing you'll have a diesel leak...
4. At least in my car the wiring harness itself can use some stress relief but there's not enough slack in the wire to make that happen. I'm not happy, but I suppose if it's lasted this long it'll last longer.
5. I cleared the CEL manually, it didn't immediately go out when I started the car after replacing the sensor. About a dozen start/stop engine cycles later (and enough driving in between to ensure normal engine operating temperature) the CEL hasn't reoccurred.
Replaced my fuel temp sensor tonight (2006 Jetta). It was as easy as the other posts here say, but here's some clarifications:Finally got it in. Does this look familiar?
1. Elsewhere in this post is says to unclip the sensor. In the above picture, that means pull the green clip out. The sensor is the piece with the wiring harness. Discard the base, no need to install it in the car -- all it does is provide a path for fuel to contact the sensor.
2. Unclip the defective sensor and discard it. Key point #1: don't remove the base already attached to the car, just the defective sensor. Key point #2: put some rags underneath the defective sensor before removing it to catch a small amount of diesel that'll leak out.
3. Optionally take the O-ring from the new base and replace the O-ring from the old base. Regardless, make sure there's exactly one O-ring in the base connected to the car or I'm guessing you'll have a diesel leak...
4. At least in my car the wiring harness itself can use some stress relief but there's not enough slack in the wire to make that happen. I'm not happy, but I suppose if it's lasted this long it'll last longer.
5. I cleared the CEL manually, it didn't immediately go out when I started the car after replacing the sensor. About a dozen start/stop engine cycles later (and enough driving in between to ensure normal engine operating temperature) the CEL hasn't reoccurred.
Does anyone have the pictures the OP posted years ago (or new ones)? Sounds like I have the same problem he did, I just want to make sure I'm looking in the right spot. Can't seem to find any other visual aids on the site for this sensor...
Thanks
Thanks
James & Son
Veteran Member
I didn't read this whole thread but I had a misfire caused by the the fuel temp. sensor wires being crossed at the plug and shorting out intermittently. Hard to diagnose since it took a while to set a diagnostic code.
TonyJetta
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2005
- Location
- Tucson, Az
- TDI
- '15 Jetta TDI SE / '06 Jetta TDI DSG Pkg0 / '96 Passat TDI
In my case, it was intermittent and no code. Occasionally, the engine would stumble like a cylinder was missing on a gas engine.
I took a chance and replaced the fuel temp sensor.
Just got back from a 50 mile drive with no issues.
Tony
I took a chance and replaced the fuel temp sensor.
Just got back from a 50 mile drive with no issues.
Tony
elwoodp44
Active member
My check engine light (and P0183 DTC) was the result of a broken wire in the harness. The sensor location was such that a strain was put on the harness.
Mike
Mike
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quaily
Active member
I am having the same problem for the fuel temp sensor (FTS) on a 2005 tdi PD BEW.
Fuel temperature sensor A (G81)
P0183 - 000 - open or short to plus - Intermittent
I have cleared the code several times and it always comes back. Sometimes right away, sometimes a few days later.
I replaced the fuel temperature sensor just to be sure it wasn't the culprit (it's cheap and easy before tracing electrical problems).
Is there a wiring diagram out there so I can trace where the 2 small wires go?
I obviously have a wiring issue, I just don't know exactly where the two small wires trace back to.
Fuel temperature sensor A (G81)
P0183 - 000 - open or short to plus - Intermittent
I have cleared the code several times and it always comes back. Sometimes right away, sometimes a few days later.
I replaced the fuel temperature sensor just to be sure it wasn't the culprit (it's cheap and easy before tracing electrical problems).
Is there a wiring diagram out there so I can trace where the 2 small wires go?
I obviously have a wiring issue, I just don't know exactly where the two small wires trace back to.
I'm trying to find mine. 2010 jetta tdi. But can't seem to locate it. And all the pictures everyone has shared are not visible. They all have the frog asking us to discover image shack... Any help? Also, I'm driving about 1400 miles between now and this coming Tuesday. Driving from Ohio to Arkansas. And back. Well I be okay running with this problem for now? Got the P0183 last night.
Dunno513
Veteran Member
Broken wire here too
Just got done fixing the wiring near the connector. Thanks VW for bending it in there like that. It did make it 240k miles before it finally broke enough wire strands to make it noticeable and throw a code. For those seeking to diagnose, I noticed a random hiccup like a misfire, usually under load and cruise on at highway speeds. Right before it finally threw the code it was studdering under load and I thought I had a clogged filter or bad fuel. If it weren't for it throwing the code I would have replaced a perfectly good filter.
The biggest problem fixing it is soldering the wire where it breaks right at the molded connector. Best solution is cut the bad wire at the break, and cut the good wire an inch or so down. Remove the connector, hopefully you will have 1 cm of wire left on the short one to solder on 3-4" of new wire. No sense in leaving it tight again when reconnected. Soldering the new wire to the ends on the harness side was tricky with just two hands. I strongly recommend a helper or some sort of device to hold the wires. Shrink wrap everything, but careful, I found out that too much heat on the shrink wrap will melt the solder again.
The break in the wire was hard to see. Take the connector off. Good luck.
Just got done fixing the wiring near the connector. Thanks VW for bending it in there like that. It did make it 240k miles before it finally broke enough wire strands to make it noticeable and throw a code. For those seeking to diagnose, I noticed a random hiccup like a misfire, usually under load and cruise on at highway speeds. Right before it finally threw the code it was studdering under load and I thought I had a clogged filter or bad fuel. If it weren't for it throwing the code I would have replaced a perfectly good filter.
The biggest problem fixing it is soldering the wire where it breaks right at the molded connector. Best solution is cut the bad wire at the break, and cut the good wire an inch or so down. Remove the connector, hopefully you will have 1 cm of wire left on the short one to solder on 3-4" of new wire. No sense in leaving it tight again when reconnected. Soldering the new wire to the ends on the harness side was tricky with just two hands. I strongly recommend a helper or some sort of device to hold the wires. Shrink wrap everything, but careful, I found out that too much heat on the shrink wrap will melt the solder again.
The break in the wire was hard to see. Take the connector off. Good luck.
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Thought I'd update with a picture. Just replaced my sensor and had a pic of it apart. As dhdenney's picture shows, it's next to the oil filter.
Here it is apart, pull the clip, and just pull the sensor out. You don't need to pull the base of it out of the fuel lines, the base in this picture is the new base, and the old guts. I put the new guts into the old base, which is still mounted on the car:
VW MK5 1.9DI 2004 1K1 77KW end code BKC.
I had an Emissions Workshop message and Engine check icon on all the time on my display. Lasy year it only appeared sometimes.
On DIAg tool I found code P0183 Fuel Temp Sensor A Circuit High.
I discovered broken wire at the sensor connector. It was easy to see, I used a magnifying glass to confirm.
I disconnected battery. Removed Temp sensor. Simple by removing its retaining clip, then pull sensor out, tiny amount of diesel drip which stops after sensor removal, just put rag under while you work on it. I repaired by soldering in a piece of longer wire, actually 2 wires ie Hi and Lo voltage ones. Bit fiddly to solder to existing harness wires but eventually worked ok, then heatshrink.
IMO , existing cable harness design could be better as its a bit short and eventually in older vehicles might break as happened in my case. Cheap , easy , self fix.
I had an Emissions Workshop message and Engine check icon on all the time on my display. Lasy year it only appeared sometimes.
On DIAg tool I found code P0183 Fuel Temp Sensor A Circuit High.
I discovered broken wire at the sensor connector. It was easy to see, I used a magnifying glass to confirm.
I disconnected battery. Removed Temp sensor. Simple by removing its retaining clip, then pull sensor out, tiny amount of diesel drip which stops after sensor removal, just put rag under while you work on it. I repaired by soldering in a piece of longer wire, actually 2 wires ie Hi and Lo voltage ones. Bit fiddly to solder to existing harness wires but eventually worked ok, then heatshrink.
IMO , existing cable harness design could be better as its a bit short and eventually in older vehicles might break as happened in my case. Cheap , easy , self fix.
Hey there. Just on this iv got same problem but when I go parts shop to order it’s coming up as coolant temp sensor, are they the same temp used as fuel temp sensor as coolant? They are saying it matches but then saying coolant temp sensor got me thinking twice even tho I took my part to them