need help with VCDS codes

Hello,

I had a check engine light come on in my 2015 Passat TDI SE Manual and then I experienced what I believe is what everyone calls "Limp Mode". I was going up a hill with speed limit 65 and it just quit accelerating and left me going around 45-50 until I got to the top of the hill. Luckily i was almost home and it's been sitting since. I wasn't expecting to have to deal with this over Christmas break, but here we are...

below is what VCDS said, and my questions are, what does everyone think I need to do to fix it (and complexity level) and otherwise is this covered under standard warranty?
My experience level working on VW is 0 other than oil changes and fuel filter changes, however I have in other automobiles replaced an AC compressor, Rear differential, brakes, throttle body, alternator, serpentine belt, fan clutch, etc., so I'm capable as long as I know what the problem is.

Thank you in advance for your help.

2 Faults Found:
13865 - Coolant Pump for Intercooler
P023A 00 [175] - Open Circuit
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 102000 km
Date: 2019.12.09
Time: 16:33:46

Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 85 °C
Intake air temperature: 75 °C
Ambient air pressure: 960 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 12.020 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Air mass at air mass meter 1: 0.0 kg/h
Exh. gas recirc.temp. sens. 2 bank 1: raw value: 69.8 °C
Extern.temp.sens.1 bank 1: raw value: 29.0 °C
Intake air temperature before throttle valve: calculated: 0.0 K
Charge air cool.output temp.sens.1 bank 1: raw value: 85.0 °C
Heater supp.pump 1 bank 1 charg.air cool.circuit: activat.: 15.00 %
Turbocharg. 1 compressor outlet:temp.sensor 1 bank 1: raw value: 75.3 °C

9647 - Reductant Injector Valve (Bank 1)
P208E 00 [101] - Stuck Closed
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 102621 km
Date: 2019.12.15
Time: 15:32:05

Engine speed: 1761.50 /min
Normed load value: 64.7 %
Vehicle speed: 103 km/h
Coolant temperature: 90 °C
Intake air temperature: 74 °C
Ambient air pressure: 950 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.220 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Extern.temp.sens.1 bank 1: raw value: 26.5 °C
Particle filter outlet temp.sens.1 bank 1: raw value: 354.9 °C
Reducing agent pump module relative press.: calculated: 0 hPa
Reducing agent fill level sensor: act. value: 71.5 mm
Sensor for reducing agent tank temperature: temperature: 24.9 °C
Calculated temperature at reduction agent injection valve: 102.1 °C
Reducing agent injector: resistance: 17473 mOhm

of you have emissions warranty the injector valve should be covered. if you have cpo warranty both are covered. or bought bumper to bumper at the dealership. all you can do is call your dealership and talk to the warranty guy or gal. they will know. or call voa.

Coolant pump for the IC is usually disconnected for each oil change, so it may just be a bad connector or not fully seated.

Who does you're oil changes and when was it done last?

740GLE said:

Coolant pump for the IC is usually disconnected for each oil change, so it may just be a bad connector or not fully seated.

Who does you're oil changes and when was it done last?

Click to expand...

i do the oil changes. It was done at 60,000 miles which wasn't too long ago.
i'll get under there after Christmas and double check that connection.
Thank you for the input.

I've got a lot to learn about these cars.

hopefully it wasn't 100% seated, i don't think there's been too many failures of that coolant pump.

I had coolant pump code. Diagnosed to chaffed/broken wires. Broken wire was near the front of the transmission where the wire meets the plug. It broke right at the plug, small wire.

Finally got under there yesterday and it looks like I didn't even try to plug it back in when It did the oil. It was completely unplugged.
Anything else I should worry about?
Could these two be related or are they completely separate?
Thanks again for the help everyone.

fix?

I wanted to post back because all of my searches for information on a VW TD1 with the P208E code (Reductant Injector Valve) came up with very few hits.
I did see one other forum post on here that mentioned to check under the car for a plug for the injector and to double check that it wasn't knocked loose from road debris.

I crawled under the car and checked the plug and it looked fine. Still had he cover on it and appeared to still be fastened fine. I unplugged the plug and plugged it back in just to make sure it snapped together fine and then drove to work this morning.

I forgot to mention that I also reset the Check Engine Light to see if it would come back on.

Very shortly after starting my car I got the orange Ad Blue warning light that said I wouldn't be able to start after 600 miles. This light wasn't on before this. If i remember correctly it usually comes on warning of 1,000 miles before you can't start and I believe it's usually white until it gets down lower and then the warning changes to Orange.

The AdBlue warning that I had warning of 600 miles, flashes a few times, but then it shut off and didn't come back on again during my 35 mile commute to work.

I figured I might see another AdBlue warning when I started the car to leave work, but no warning whatsoever.

Just to make sure I had enough AdBlue in, I added more when I got home, so we will see if this might have solved my problem on the P208E code.

I have a question regarding the Passat Manual. I searched and searched the "Reductant Injector valve" and "P208E" and the only place I saw either was in the Codes section of the manual. This is the manual from Erwin.

So my question is, how does someone know that P208E means to check this plug which someone called the "Injector plug"? I haven't found the manual very helpful at diagnosing anything, but only to show you the correct procedure of doing something that you already know needs to be done (torque values, etc.). Basically, had that other forum post not been there, mentioning that plug under the car, how would I otherwise have known? Any tips?

When you get 600 miles till no start that randomly starts, it's usually a unit failure and a new DEF tank, heater, pump is in order.

Either way time for it to visit the dealer and let the warranty sort it out.

Reporting back in case this will help someone else.

since unplugging the connector under the car and plugging back in, the codes have remained clear. I believe it was probably just a bad connection for some reason, and re-seating the connector has solved the issue.