Something wrong with my key/ignition

So I took the car to the gym and when I get out, this happens. My car recognizes the key, but it doesn't crank or start. When I pull the key out, the car still functions as if it's on... Is this a simple fix with just replacing an ignition switch?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ctf7S0btP_E&feature=youtu.be

I don't see the video but I was turning the key and getting nothing sometimes and other times it was normal. All lights always came on. I got switch from Id parts, put it in using following instructions:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/A4_Ignition_Switch_Replacement.pdf
No problems since. I recommend taking off trim under light switch, to the left of steering wheel for room pulling the electric plug out of lock cylinder and definitely use jeweler screwdriver !

gdnguyen said:

So I took the car to the gym and when I get out, this happens. My car recognizes the key, but it doesn't crank or start. When I pull the key out, the car still functions as if it's on... Is this a simple fix with just replacing an ignition switch?

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It's possible the ignition switch is not bad and something else it.
Could be a broken wire, bad clutch pedal switch, starter, solenoid or such.
You have to use a test light (or meter) to check if power is coming from the ignition switch when you turn it.
Then check at the clutch switch, then the solenoid.
There is a heavy wire on the solenoid that goes inside the starter that has been know to corrode until it breaks.
A quick test, put the car in neutral and jump a test wire from the battery positive to the small terminal on the solenoid.
If the car cranks the starter is OK, it you just hear a click it could be the wire going into the starter broke.

Ever since I bought the car, I never had to depress the clutch to start it. Perhaps the clutch switch got removed? But after the AAA guy took a look at the car, he says that the ignition thinks that the key is stuck between the AC and ON. Would this just be a simple fix with the switch?

Ignition switch is not too bad, but more commonly the wires/connector to it melt and need to be rebuilt.

oilhammer said:

Ignition switch is not too bad, but more commonly the wires/connector to it melt and need to be rebuilt.

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Can I just go to the junkyard and get another one? From a non diesel a4?

gdnguyen said:

Can I just go to the junkyard and get another one? From a non diesel a4?

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You can cut one off and splice it in, yes, assuming it is all in good order.

There are about 10 wires if I recall... been a few months since I have done one. I would make certain that is in fact your problem first. Take the steering column covers off and take a look at the plug and wires in the ignition switch. Takes 5 min. OK, maybe 10.

I haven't had the time to look yet, but another issue I'm having is that I'm getting no resistance when I'm turning the key to the start position.

You may have a mechanical lock cylinder problem then. A little more involved, but not a horrible job.

If you have to replace the actual keyed cylinder, though, Volkswagen can order one by VIN that is matched already to your key. Your dealer may require proof of ownership before they order one for you however, like they do with keys.

After a ton of research, I'm convinced that the underlying issue is the ignition lock cylinder needs to be replaced. I'm probably going to have to go through a dealership for this one...

For future reference: It was the ignition lock housing. The piece inside the ignition lock housing that connects to the ignition switch was broken through years of wear and tear so the whole thing needs to be replaced. If you go to a dealer, they'll make you replace the ignition lock cylinder as well which isn't necessary because the lock cylinder can still be reused. Cost of the replacement part is ~$175 but the dealer charged me $350 for labor. I just paid it to get on with my life, but if you can DIY, you'll save yourself the $$$

gdnguyen said:

For future reference: It was the ignition lock housing. The piece inside the ignition lock housing that connects to the ignition switch was broken through years of wear and tear so the whole thing needs to be replaced. If you go to a dealer, they'll make you replace the ignition lock cylinder as well which isn't necessary because the lock cylinder can still be reused. Cost of the replacement part is ~$175 but the dealer charged me $350 for labor. I just paid it to get on with my life, but if you can DIY, you'll save yourself the $$$

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Thanks for the update. I hear ya on that last part. Sometimes, depending on your skills, tools, money and time it's sometimes best to let someone else handle it. I feel the same way about carberators. I hate them so much I don't want to learn to spell it and if some asks, I just send them to Ricardo.

whitedog said:

I feel the same way about carberators. I hate them so much I don't want to learn to spell it and if some asks, I just send them to Ricardo.

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That is funny.

I replaced ignition switch for fun, since when I turned key to crank there was an intermittent no start. All the lights come on but no clicks or turning over. Sometimes if I held the key on it will click rapidly in succession. I didn't see a problem with the wires except they were in the way of the new switch. Well it was starting great but now it's doing it again, so today i punched the relay panel and tried it and it cranked over like new. I deoxit sprayed all relays I could reach whilst down there before, but maybe I ought to replace one? But which relay?

Fahrvegnugen said:

Sometimes if I held the key on it will click rapidly in succession.

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The fast clicking sounds like a dirty battery post or clamp.

You're probably right, I got a new Amg battery in there and freshened all battery ground and cable ends but I'm thinking maybe I'll get the innovative wiring cable package, it seems like the easiest way to sort that out.

Just a quick note on TommyT's instructions. If your car has ESP, the screws on the face of the lower cover are inside short 'tubes' that are captured by the clockspring that has a steering angle sensor. You'll have to pull the steering wheel anyway. Sorry, but that's the way it is.

Cheers,

PH