What did you do to your MKIV today?

I finally got some new tires and wheels.


I would post a before and after pic, but I do not know how.


Diesel Man

Diesel_Man said:

I finally got some new tires and wheels.


I would post a before and after pic, but I do not know how.


Diesel Man

Click to expand...

BobnOH has a link in his sig that goes over the process


http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=286691

I also keep a short version, which may be all that's needed:
Log in again at pics.tdiclub.com
Select Upload button, follow prompts (check your file type)
At the end, harvest the url to use as a link for your post
Note there are 3 sizes with separate urls. For large data use the thumbnail, it shows the full size when clicked.
More complete instructions in my signature.

Thanks.


I was looking at that and tried, but the file size was too big. I was able to crop it a bit and get the pics uploaded


Waddya tink?????


Before


After



Thanks BobnOH It took a litttle bit to figure out some things, but I got it

Diesel_Man said:

Thanks.


I was looking at that and tried, but the file size was too big. I was able to crop it a bit and get the pics uploaded


Waddya tink?????


Before

After

Thanks BobnOH It took a litttle bit to figure out some things, but I got it

Click to expand...

Wow! That’s is NICE!!!!!!


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Nice!!

diesel_man said:

...waddya tink?????

Click to expand...

Got the hatch working again, but it only works with the switch on the driver's door. Neither the remote, nor putting the key in the lock and turning it will make the actuator operate. Also got the A/C working again. It was the 30 Amp fuse in the battery mounted block. The fuse wasn't blown, so I cleaned up the spades and the socket with some emery cloth.

I didn’t do nuthin’, but got a thumbs up from a fellow mk4 tdi owner.. are there tdiclub stickers or badges?

zaeli said:

I didn’t do nuthin’, but got a thumbs up from a fellow mk4 tdi owner.. are there tdiclub stickers or badges?

Click to expand...

There are license plate holders!


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That is one sweet set of wheels and rubber...

Today, on the 00 Jetta we went to replace what we thought was a cracked, leaking washer bottle. Robbed the Golf carcass( whilst noting it had two outputs; one for the rear and one for the front). Went to remove the Jetta bottle, and found the pump had been knocked out of its rubber grommet. Put it back in and filled it up...no leaks.
cheers,
Douglas

The right front brake pads on the wagon were worn a lot more than the left side so replaced the pads (ceramic) and rotors. Hopefully the wheels will stay a lot cleaner with the ceramic pads. The left piston was very hard to push in compared to the right piston. I don't know if that has anything to do with the uneven wear, but I cleaned and lubed everything with Sil-Glyde. Hopefully I don't need a new caliper. Still need to flush the really old fluid out of the fronts and replace with fresh.

Also replaced the battery. Got 4.5 years out of it, which isn't amazing. Is it just me or are batteries getting more and more expensive while the warranties keep getting shorter?

Well, friday the 2nd was a sad day. Not really what I did but what someone did to me...





I was stopped at a red light when the car BEHIND me was rear ended, causing him to rear end me, which caused me to rear end the car in front of me. 4 cars involved, I was 2nd in line. Nobody was hurt so that was great.

The damage is worse than it looks from the pics. I'm sure it'll be totaled. Does seem fixable though. No idea if i'll buy it back and fix it, buy it back and part it out, or just let it go. I have my truck to drive and I'm thankful for having a second vehicle. It's a Ridgeline so it's a good dd.

Really sucks. My dad has an 04 Golf and we were just talking the other day about how the only thing that can really stop these cars is rust or a wreck.

03 shaker said:

Well, friday the 2nd was a sad day. Not really what I did but what someone did to me...


I was stopped at a red light when the car BEHIND me was rear ended, causing him to rear end me, which caused me to rear end the car in front of me. 4 cars involved, I was 2nd in line. Nobody was hurt so that was great.
The damage is worse than it looks from the pics. I'm sure it'll be totaled. Does seem fixable though. No idea if i'll buy it back and fix it, buy it back and part it out, or just let it go. I have my truck to drive and I'm thankful for having a second vehicle. It's a Ridgeline so it's a good dd.
Really sucks. My dad has an 04 Golf and we were just talking the other day about how the only thing that can really stop these cars is rust or a wreck.

Click to expand...

I'd be looking at the trunk, see if the body part is caved in, looks like it might be. That's expensive to fix and have it not leak. The front doesn't look too bad.

JDSwan87 said:

I'd be looking at the trunk, see if the body part is caved in, looks like it might be. That's expensive to fix and have it not leak. The front doesn't look too bad.

Click to expand...

Yep, on the driver side, where the tail light sits, that area/metal is pushed in a lot.

03 shaker said:

Yep, on the driver side, where the tail light sits, that area/metal is pushed in a lot.

Click to expand...

Ouch, sorry for your loss man... If you decide to fix it, I'm sure lots of folks in the forums have parts to help you get it on the road again.

03 shaker said:

Well, Friday the 2nd was a sad day. Not really what I did but what someone did to me...

Click to expand...

Based on the descriptions in your signature, the parts are worth much more than the Jetta. You should swap everything over to another Mk4 chassis.

TornadoRed said:

Based on the descriptions in your signature, the parts are worth much more than the Jetta. You should swap everything over to another Mk4 chassis.

Click to expand...

Buy back should be real cheap, I totally agree.

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IMO, buy back will be less than just the engine is worth.
cheers,
Douglas

Finally installed all new (blue) silicone vacuum hoses.
The old vacuum hoses were probably the originals and had some wear spots and looked pretty dry.
Used the "one at time" approach and slit the old tubing where they fit on each solenoid / "T" fitting to release them.
The one on the ASV was very very dry and hard to get at, so I removed the actuator completely and used the tiny slot on the fitting shroud to make a slit in the old hose. I then sprayed some WD-40 in the slit and the hose released easily after that.
Took the car for a spin afterwards and then verified the ASV operation during shutdown and all looked and felt good.

Nero Morg said:

Ouch, sorry for your loss man... If you decide to fix it, I'm sure lots of folks in the forums have parts to help you get it on the road again.

Click to expand...

Appreciate that, I agree, this would be the place to look for parts and help.

TornadoRed said:

Based on the descriptions in your signature, the parts are worth much more than the Jetta. You should swap everything over to another Mk4 chassis.

Click to expand...

Good idea that I'm going seriously consider.

PakProtector said:

IMO, buy back will be less than just the engine is worth.
cheers,
Douglas

Click to expand...

Also true. Not sure what I'll end up doing but gonna have to look at all options.

Diesel_Man said:

T

After

Thanks BobnOH It took a litttle bit to figure out some things, but I got it

Click to expand...

Nice, details on the wheels and tires, those would look good on a Indigo blue golf

03 shaker said:

My dad has an 04 Golf and we were just talking the other day about how the only thing that can really stop these cars is rust or a wreck.

Click to expand...

I attempted to explain that concept to my wife back when DieselGate began... I knew the moment my wife called me (this February) to tell me she'd been hit in her '06 MkV that it would be totaled... It was. I sat on the carcass for months debating the next best move with a chassis we'd owned since it was brand new. Finally gave it to the insurance company in return for a check... Copart got a really great engine and tranny out of that deal!

As for my MkIV and what it has gotten recently, it got a "solar powered" TPMS system. Now I just need to figure out how to mount the display in the space over the radio where the early MkIV's got the notorious cup holder...

Finished refurb on an hvac box I procured. The next step is to replace my own in my Y2K Golf, which not longer allows the fan speed selector to turn at all, the fan won't blow at any speed, and the heater core leaks.

I have a couple other cars to work on before I get to the start of tearing my Golf apart, and I'm not really looking forward to it. Sigh...

Cheers,

PH

I decided to stick my new headlight bulbs in because mine were looking burnt inside, possibly age or from me holding my highbeams on with the flasher function (keeps low and high filaments lit)? Either way, I realized once out that I've been down one high beam for who knows how long and my lights are nicer on high now!
I'm not 100% sure but I think either I didn't realize I had a light off while using high-beam, or the VW circuits know there's a dead high beam and provide power to the low-beam so it stays on all the time.
Also, I put in some mild sound deadening in the spare tire compartment to eliminate some resonance I didn't like. It's basically a steel drum with a spare tire in it, and a few patches eliminated the high frequency and low frequency drone when I tap it. No idea if it helps much on the road because I have no carpet at the moment, but if I ever install a subwoofer it would help that!

03 shaker said:

Well, friday the 2nd was a sad day. Not really what I did but what someone did to me...


I was stopped at a red light when the car BEHIND me was rear ended, causing him to rear end me, which caused me to rear end the car in front of me. 4 cars involved, I was 2nd in line. Nobody was hurt so that was great.
The damage is worse than it looks from the pics. I'm sure it'll be totaled. Does seem fixable though. No idea if i'll buy it back and fix it, buy it back and part it out, or just let it go. I have my truck to drive and I'm thankful for having a second vehicle. It's a Ridgeline so it's a good dd.
Really sucks. My dad has an 04 Golf and we were just talking the other day about how the only thing that can really stop these cars is rust or a wreck.

Click to expand...

Oh no! Glad you're ok, and also glad that most of your car's value was in the engine, which looks to be fine. If you were in California I'd make you an offer on that car right now.... definitely voting to buy it back, don't trash that good stuff! Find a stock mkiV (maybe even upgrade to a wagon if that's appealing to you) and move it all over!

2003 Jetta manual wagon, 194K miles. The serp belt tensioner has been rattling for a little while. With it idling I could see the arm wiggling around a fair amount, the hydraulic damper not doing much. From reading around it sounded like the alternator one-way clutch was a likely contributor. So I got a serp belt/tensioner/idler kit, along with the alternator clutch and the little tool to remove/replace it.

Did this Sunday evening. It went easier than I was expecting it to. I think I spent more time wrestling around with that *&^!@$# spring clip on the bottom end of the intercooler pipe. I even entertained the idea of working around it for a bit.

But that out of the way, everything else went super smooth. Took the belt off, removed the tensioner. The hydraulic part was totally shot - just loosely flops back and forth and makes a feeble sucking sound. Tensioner and idler pulley bearings sounded a little dry. Then took the panzer skid off and did the rest from underneath.

And I was expecting the alternator clutch to put up more of a fight, but it came off fairly easily. And it was still working properly- not stuck in place. Sooo... dunno, went ahead an put the new on on. No point in getting to that part of the process and then putting an old part back on.

Serp belt back on (how does that go again, lol, had to look at a pic), intercooler pipe back on (I replaced that lower spring clamp with a screw type radiator hose clamp in case I ever need to take it off again, - future happiness dividend).

And started it up. w00t! Only good diesel clatters, no added harsh metallic clattering noises, and the tensioner was sitting rock steady and still.

This wasn't a today thing, but more of a couple of weekend projects.

Here goes:

First I replaced all the rotors and pads at all 4 corners with dimpled/slotted rotors from brakeperformance. I have their system on my truck and for the price, it's an awesome setup. I needed to rebuild the front passenger side as it was frozen. I was able to source an entire kit including a new piston. Rebuild went smooth as well as the bleed.

I then got a dash warning about the "wear pad" indicator (it was on). Our mkiv's have that stupid embedded wire in the pad that when it wears through it breaks the wire and circuit and the dash light comes on. For some reason, it didn't like the new plug or something so the code was on. I always look at my pads anyway at regular intervals so I was able to eliminate this warning with VCDS.

There's mixed feelings about the next thing, but I have my reasons.

I do all my own wrenching and live in a temperate climate (Pacific Northwest) and I wanted to do and EGR/ASV/Cooler delete with a race pipe. I really enjoy having engine space to work around/in. I know there's nothing performance wise for it, this was purely for space and simplicity.

While everything out, I wanted to have my manifold cleaned completely (it wasn't even hardly coated at all, I've had EGR turned way down via VCDS). As well, I've had issues with the valve cover and vac pump o ring leaking, even though they were new, so I wanted to solve those leaks for good.

So, drained the oil and coolant (needed oil change anyway) and began the tear down for everything. Took the coolant head flange off to so I could replace that o ring just for kicks. I re-assembled anything, and added a light bead of the "Right Stuff" gasket maker to all of the o-ring seals.

After it was all assembled I re routed all the vacuum lines so that only the N75 was actuating the turbo. I left the other 2 in place capped off with vacuum cap nipples so I could plug the electrical connections back into them. Plus if my N75 fails I have a spare right on the car.

It's nice to have my commuter back leak free. Initial impressions of the race delete are well, nothing. Except when I open the hood to work. Loss of the ASV is not an issue to me. A lot of people were concerned about the shut down shudder being more violent. To me, I could hardly feel anything. There might be one extra noticeable "whomp" at the end. But barely. Plus, I'm used to the ole' Cummins shake anyway with my truck.

No CEL's for me at this point either.

Oh, and I fixed the failing broken wires in the hatchback boots...for the second time. They should last a long time but the boots are torn. I ordered some replacement boots from Europe since you cannot find them in the US. I'll at least have everything on hand when I need to replace the piece of wires going from the cargo area into the hatchback door.

Whew. Lots of wrenching recently!!

I'd been chasing an oil leak at the EGR valve on my ALH.
I have a new EGR to install, but wanted to reduce the amount of oil going through the intake.
I installed an agricultural strainer as a crankcase breather trap, but found that very little was actually coming out of the crankcase to start with.
Since the turbo is the only other source of intake oil, so I took a second look at a turbo that I'd saved from a parts car.

I found around 1/16" of axial play on the shaft, instead of the 1-3 thousandths that seem to be the acceptable range.

I dropped it off at DFIS PDX who cleaned and rebuilt it in a week for ~$560, so now I just have to drop the old one and install the new.

Figit090 said:

Oh no! Glad you're ok, and also glad that most of your car's value was in the engine, which looks to be fine. If you were in California I'd make you an offer on that car right now.... definitely voting to buy it back, don't trash that good stuff! Find a stock mkiV (maybe even upgrade to a wagon if that's appealing to you) and move it all over!

Click to expand...

If it's totaled I'm pretty sure I'll buy it back. Definitely agree that there are too many good parts to let go to waste.

hey_allen said:

I'd been chasing an oil leak at the EGR valve on my ALH.
I have a new EGR to install, but wanted to reduce the amount of oil going through the intake.
I installed an agricultural strainer as a crankcase breather trap, but found that very little was actually coming out of the crankcase to start with.
Since the turbo is the only other source of intake oil, so I took a second look at a turbo that I'd saved from a parts car.

Finding around 1/16" of axial play on the shaft, instead of the 1-3 thousandths that seem to be the acceptable range.

I dropped it off at DFIS PDX who cleaned and rebuilt it in a week for ~$560, so now I just have to drop the old one and install the new.

Click to expand...

What's up man hope all is well!
Sounds like you should just be able to use a sawzall on it and it'll be outta there quick!!

Have you already minimized the recirculating gasses via changing the VCDS numbers as well?

I gotta say after all the work I posted above I'm able to get to the turbo really easily if I ever need to (when) now!

I think at this point, when/if the turbo goes, I'll go full bore into this thing and upgrade the turbo, clutch, injectors and add an 11mm pump and make her a go fast buggy.

But for right now, she's just a lazy commuter that can breathe a bit clearer

Replaced the worn out knobs on the MFD1 nav.



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