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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old June 15th, 2017, 14:30   #16
Henrick
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bherman,

I suspect you are dealing a bad turbo control.
See this: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/tu...ne-hesitation/

Test it and ensure that the boost changes during the test are within 80-250 range.

Also, any exhaust leaks should be fixed. Not sure if you fixed your EGR cooler leak but you should. Make sure you don't hear any hissing sounds during partial or full acceleration. As hissing sound means a leak of air which has been accounted as entered the system (through MAF). Even if it was supposed to be recirculated but leaked to atmosphere, this causes error in accounting. ECU gives more fuel but the quanity or air calculated contains an error, which is why it ends up with rich mixture (and soot, which is unburnt fuel). That might be a reason of poor fuel economy.

Also, check your rear brakes for draging. One again! When the car if lifted in the air, rear wheel should freespin minimum full 3 turns when spun with sufficient force. 6 turns is realistically expected.
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Old June 15th, 2017, 19:41   #17
bherman13
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Thanks so much for that info, Henrick. I will certainly look into the turbo.

As for the EGR, I did in fact replace it with a new one and the hissing noise that I was mistaken for a "normal" noise went away completely.

I believe the brakes are fine, but will check them again anyways to be sure.

Thanks also to everyone that's given input in this thread so far.
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Old June 15th, 2017, 19:55   #18
bherman13
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Question: Does the "zip-tie mod" cure turbo responsiveness, or lack of boost?

I don't know if I'm having a low boost issue or not, but I'm trying to understand the function.
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Old June 15th, 2017, 20:14   #19
N.CaTDI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bherman13 View Post
Question: Does the "zip-tie mod" cure turbo responsiveness, or lack of boost?

I don't know if I'm having a low boost issue or not, but I'm trying to understand the function.
Zip tie mode adjust the turbo as if you adjusted the set screw. Set screw can brake and is best to not to move it. If your turbo is in good shape it works well. If your turbo is bad it will not help you. It is an easy fix to try to see if it can be helpful.
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Old June 16th, 2017, 01:01   #20
Henrick
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Zip tie mod isn't the real thing, it's just a wild guess. Because actuator rod should also be adjusted. I believe that the proper adjustment would be at a specialized shop with proper equipment but zip tie mod is sufficient enough to cure most of the sympthoms.
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Old June 16th, 2017, 06:56   #21
bherman13
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Well I have done exactly nothing to the turbo since owning the car, so it's worth my time to look into it to see if it's healthy. I've checked MAP levels with VCDS in the past and they looked ok to me, but I guess I'm not 100% sure what counts as "ok".
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Old June 16th, 2017, 08:58   #22
JETaah
 
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Did you check out the diagnostic procedure on Myturbodiesel.com mentioned in the #16th post?
That should explain what is happening and how to see if your turbo is within an acceptable range. I find that a turbo with an OFF-ON range of about 180 mbar should eliminate the possibility that the turbo stop screw is your issue.

I have stopped trying to adjust the stop screw to remedy this due to a couple of times when the cast ear that supports the stop screw broke off while trying to loosen the jam nut. Things get too rusty here in Michigan. Now, I have implemented a bracket and a split collar that can be added from the top side.


fully retracted


fully actuated
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Old June 16th, 2017, 09:06   #23
kbaisley
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Love the "Bush Fix" for actuator JETaah. Going to have to remember that one for when one of mine fails.
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Old June 16th, 2017, 11:11   #24
firehawk618
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I like that repair a lot better than the zip tie one.

On my car it had no power until 2k then wham it all hit. Actuator readings were within spec in vagcom. Added the zip tie and it feels better now.

I will eventually try to get the adjuster adjusted though. I do have a spare turbo in case I mess it up.
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Old June 16th, 2017, 14:03   #25
bherman13
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JETaah, I did check out that procedure. I had never heard of that before. I will certainly look into that once I get the car back. It is in the body shop for the next week.
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Old June 25th, 2017, 15:08   #26
bherman13
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Ran the "Charge Pressure Control" test. High value 1122 mbar, low value 938.4 mbar for a difference of 183.6 mbar.

I guess that means the turbo stop screw is right where it should be?

I have snapshots of the test if you need to see them. Also ran the EGR test along with it, but I don't know what numbers I'm supposed to see. I also have those if you want to see them.
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Old June 30th, 2017, 16:22   #27
N.CaTDI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bherman13 View Post
Ran the "Charge Pressure Control" test. High value 1122 mbar, low value 938.4 mbar for a difference of 183.6 mbar.

I guess that means the turbo stop screw is right where it should be?

I have snapshots of the test if you need to see them. Also ran the EGR test along with it, but I don't know what numbers I'm supposed to see. I also have those if you want to see them.
Yes that appears to be right on. I think I was at 250 and adjusted it down to 150 with zip tie. You may want to try a plastic zip tie just to see if it helps easy to do and cost a few pennies.
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Old July 11th, 2017, 11:28   #28
bherman13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N.CaTDI View Post
Yes that appears to be right on. I think I was at 250 and adjusted it down to 150 with zip tie. You may want to try a plastic zip tie just to see if it helps easy to do and cost a few pennies.

If I throw a plastic zip tie on there, what value should I be shooting for to test for an improvement?

I got a chance to take the intake off this past week and was able to see that the current gunk buildup is nowhere near as bad as it was last time. It is definitely nowhere near clogging up the intake or the valves.

I'll definitely be tuning out the EGR for long term results, but I'm hoping to find some mpg back before then if possible.

I changed the torsion value from the -1.0 I had it on to 0.0 and the car is still smoking out the tail pipe, just a little less than previously. It gives a puff of black right around every shift or if the throttle is 100%.

Any ideas of what else could be going bad? What's the likeliness the cat might be bad and how could I check? Do the injectors on BRMs wear out? Car has about 187k miles on original injectors.

Last edited by bherman13; July 11th, 2017 at 11:31.
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Old July 17th, 2017, 07:02   #29
bherman13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bherman13 View Post
Any ideas of what else could be going bad? What's the likeliness the cat might be bad and how could I check? Do the injectors on BRMs wear out? Car has about 187k miles on original injectors.

Anyone here have any experience regarding these questions?
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Old July 18th, 2017, 11:57   #30
Henrick
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Everything wears out. PD is a wear engine on everything - be it cams, egr coolers, DMFs, injectors, cylinder heads or even intercooler hose clips and hoses themselves.

At that mileage you might have wear on injector bores on the cyl head. Worth checking.
Injectors typically last a bit longer but it's not uncommon to see a work injector or two at that miles also.
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