TB Success, my .02 worth

Just did a timing belt job. Not to bad of a job. Couple of things that annoyed me.

1. The dieselgeek crank lock is worthless, maybe mine was fabed incorrectly. Wouldnt hold the crank as designed. And why do you need to place a screwdriver in the flywheel if you have this tool?

2. I used an allen key wrench for the valve cover bolts, no problem there.

3. The damm cover that accesses the pollen filter is very brittle............any place to get one replaced?

4. Water pump install was pain, thank god it didnt leak.......no do over here.

5. The Vag Com thing is way cool. Set my pump up with it, very easy I might add.

6. I dont like the tensioner design at all.......why didnt the make a manual tensioner for this motor?

7. My intake is probably caked, I looked at the EGR valve and the deposits were pretty thick. I get about 54 MPG with no acceleration issues so Im going to wait cleaning it for now.

By the way, I was shakled to doing this job myself. The local stealership in Evansville, IN kindly left tools in my doors on left loose drain plugs in place after oil changes.

These idiots work on Porches, MB and Bmers go figure.
I passed on them doing this job. What are guys getting to do this job? $$$

Thanks for all your help

Great job...contacting the "geek" about the tool issue would have gotten you a replacement,a refund, or a reference to a better tool.
Regardless, sounds as if your experience has been a positive one.

With all you accomplished I would estimate $600.00 to $800.00

1. The dieselgeek crank lock is worthless, maybe mine was fabed incorrectly. Wouldnt hold the crank as designed. And why do you need to place a screwdriver in the flywheel if you have this tool?

Click to expand...

It is not you. It's the tool. I don't like it either compared to the one for B4/A3. The B4/A3 one is super great and you really need it as it will hold real good. The A4 version has some play with the tool install that it still will move no matter how much you try to avoid. That's why you have to place the screwdriver in the flywheel. I only used the A4 crank tool about 10-15 times after trying all different ways to make it really work. I don't use it any more. The long screwdriver does the job. However you can't quite use the screwdriver on the automatics. Still I am careful and check it often.

Beside it is not the dieselgeek crank lock, it's the metalnerd lock.

Hey, good input.
I just completed my TB change and had good luck with "The Geek"'s Tools. The crank lock worked just fine. Also, I replaced the water pump, it was harder to get out than I thought it would be, however. It would be nice to have a quick reference on the torque settings for the pulleys and any other bolt that needs to be tightened. I agree with using an allen wrench for the valve-cover bolts but having a stubby 5mm is a reason to buy more tools.

Also, setting the mechanical injector timing took longer because I had no idea how much the pump should be moved to get a change in timing. It's extremely sensitive.

Regarding the crank lock tool, maybe I was not the only one who tried to get it "into" the inspection hole in the engine case. I thought the notch would go onto a flywheel tooth. It did not take long for me and my wife to confirm the hole was too small, and there we no holes for the bolts. Then I found the part about it bolting onto the end of the crank (doh!). It felt good to finish the job on my own (after many rookie mistakes) and not have the dealer touch it after they messed the car up.

Your a Real Trooper hlrd19. I consider the TB job to be pretty rough. My '98 Beetle is ready for the second belt (adjuster, idlers, waterpump...Diesel Geek Kit). I did it the first time without the crank-cam tools and plan on doing it again the same way. I just marked all belt and pullies, Carfully transferd the marks and installed the belt. I need to learn how to set my timing with the Vag-Com (I have one) and I've never done a Tdi waterpump.

Mike

Funny, I had my girlfreind check TDC when I was messing with the crank lock tool. I wasted about 3 hours trying to figure out why the simple device didnt work.

Another thing, The airbox should be removed so you can see the TDC mark deadnuts!!!!

I dont envy anyone putting in a water pump. I was sweating bullets hoping it wouldnt leak. There is no room to push the unit in straight. I just bolted the pump in evenly. No leaks. I imagine how pi^$#ed I would have gotten if I had to tear down the car again.

Next time, Im going to put a little dish soap on the o-ring. make it a little easier.

Funny, I had my girlfreind check TDC when I was messing with the crank lock tool. I wasted about 3 hours trying to figure out why the simple device didnt work.

Another thing, The airbox should be removed so you can see the TDC mark deadnuts!!!!

I dont envy anyone putting in a water pump. I was sweating bullets hoping it wouldnt leak. There is no room to push the unit in straight. I just bolted the pump in evenly. No leaks. I imagine how pi^$#ed I would have gotten if I had to tear down the car again.

Next time, Im going to put a little dish soap on the o-ring. make it a little easier.

I dont envy anyone putting in a water pump. I was sweating bullets hoping it wouldnt leak. There is no room to push the unit in straight. I just bolted the pump in evenly. No leaks. I imagine how pi^$#ed I would have gotten if I had to tear down the car again.

Next time, Im going to put a little dish soap on the o-ring. make it a little easier.

Click to expand...

I would avoid using the dishsoap. I had wasted two O-rings. But after doing so many pumps, I get a feel of it if it goes in correctly. I wet the whole O ring first using a wet paper towel with the old coolant. Then I put it in. Also once the pump is in, fill the coolant up right away. Don't wait until the end of the job.

I have never used a crank lock on the A4 TDI's... it is simply not needed. I have never had the crank move, and I check it before and after the belt is on.

The A3/B4 is a different story.. It really helps to have the crank lock for those cars.

Timely info for me. I'm in the midst of a tb change. Thanks.

Still in progress..
I couldn't pull that pump off for the life of me. Then I got out the BIG ChannelLok's and presto! I'll probably just wet the new o-ring and evenly bolt it in.

I see no point in locking the cam or crank if your carefull not to hand turn the cam or crank with force and bend valves. Yes locking the pump is a good idea. I don't even mark things. The only tools you need is the pump lock and the tensioner tools. Here is the method I use to get it right.

Hey guys you are making this more complex than it needs to be. Use the pin tool to Lock the pump with the motor set at #1 tdc #4 cyl is in the overlap position with both valves slightly open or probably both closed on a diesel (mild cams). If you put the new belt on a tooth off in either direction on the cam the cyl #4 intake or the exhaust valve will be open more than its companion valve. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE LIKE THIS OR YOU WILL BEND VALVES!!!!!! If both valves on #4 are closed or slightly open the same amount when the motor is at #1 tdc you can't go wrong. Also do not check this until you have hand spun the motor in the running direction a couple of times to settle things. Yes you must check the pump timing when your done you could have the teeth right but that is not close enough for pump timing. I have used this method for many different kinds of engines and have never gotten it wrong. The vw system is overly complex to be idiot proof. Locking the cam is a waist of time and tools. The trick to getting it right is knowing when you got it wrong. I never have to pray after I have done a cam belt. Dan