Won't start after timing belt replacement

I have a 2002 Jetta TDI with 108K that broke a timing belt and the resultant mess with bent valves and etc. I had a mechanic very familiar with the old Rabbit diesels tear it down and replaced all the valves and guides and redid the head, replaced water pump and etc. All of the timing marks are correct but will not even begin to start. Cracked the nuts on the injectors and no fuel at all. Seems to be fuel in the fuel filter. Filter has 40k on it and has never had any water show in it. Any ideas what to do next. I am a newby to diesels other than just maintenance but am mechanical.

The IP won't suck the fuel into the filter by itself. You need to prime it by hooking up a mityvac to the filter exit and sucking until fuel appears. It's possible to pour fuel into it, but I worry about it not passing through the filter element. You might still have to crack the injector lines.

If you hook your vacuum to the return side of the IP you can pull fuel through the pump and the filter at the same time.

Check the links in the first post of the thread linked in my signature. It sounds like (as others mentioned) you need to bleed the fuel lines, but once that is done, you may need to go back and recheck one of the other links...

I know that sounds confusing, but just go in and read it and I think that you will understand.

Oops

A couple of things in the first post stand out. "timing marks line up" there shouldn't be any timing marks if the TB job was done correctly, "filter has 40K" should have been replaced at 20K.

First... as stated before, no timing marks on a TDI, it requires the engine to be locked down.

assuming the engine is not in time...
might need to re-do the head again...

assuming the engine is actually in time...

Since it's a new head... Maybe the valves aren't seated well... pull the bus bar to the glowplugs and do a compression test. if it's low, expect the valves are not lapped, or properly seated.

If they are lapped "properly" and you swear up and down it should be running, then you might need to re-bleed the injectors...
you can check to see fuel by pulling the glowplugs and cranking... fine diesel mist will spray out.

If you have this, and low compression (again, assuming the engine was locked down right) you "might" leave the bus bar off and gingerly and I mean GINGERLY spray some starting fluid (I like WD-40 over ether). Remember to NEVER spray ether into a modern diesel without pulling the bus bar, and NEVER for a long period (literally .5 seconds of spray per full crank cycle). This is not on my recommended list, so not only will your mileage vary, but I won't be held responsible for your actions with either or other flamable material put into the engine.

I got a mityvac and sucked fuel through the return line on the inj pump. Cracked #3 injector line and #4 also. Cranked it over at 30 second intervals 4 times. Fuel just dribbles out of the line. I guess my terminology about timing is not correct. Engine locked down and timed correctly with all the special tools. Same mechanic replaced the belt and timed it at 60K. He thinks the injector pump is bad but I noticed when I pulled the mickey mouse clip and looked in the filter that it was not full of fuel and when I put the VAC on it, it took quite a bit of pumping to get fuel to the pump. When using the Mityvac do you just apply enough suction to pull fuel into the clear line or can you actually circulate fuel thru the vacuum pump into a container? Never used one before. I can hear the fuel solenoid humming when the key is turned on so I am assuming it is working?

joetdi said:

If you hook your vacuum to the return side of the IP you can pull fuel through the pump and the filter at the same time.

Click to expand...

I presume you mean the metal tube at the top of the pump?

The IP really has 2 stages to it. A low pressure side draws the fuel from the tank (thru the filter). The high pressure is created by the actuator shaft compressing the fuel in the head that has the fuel lines that go to the individual cylinders. If the primary stage is not drawing fuel from the tank into the pump body, then either it is shot, or there is a major constriction between the tank and the pump.

tditom said:

The high pressure is created by the actuator shaft compressing the fuel in the head

Click to expand...

I know what you meant, but fuel (liquids) cann't be "compressed"... .

Perhaps the OP should pull the fuel supply line and run a temp one into a container close to the filter and see if IP (or Mity Vac) pulls fuel from there. Rule out air leak or obstruction, then proceed to check out IP. (enough fuel in tank?? you never know..)

There is a plug in the side of the injection pump that faces the engine. Pull that out and pour fuel into the inlet until it runs out this hole. Fill the filter then crack the lines at injectors and you should have fuel.
The pump is not bad if it worked before the head came off.
The pump has no fuel in it thats why you dont have any at the injectors.

KROUT-
If he primed it this way:

secretofnims said:

I got a mityvac and sucked fuel through the return line on the inj pump....

Click to expand...

then why would filling it the way you suggested help?

I agree that it seems odd that the pump was working before and isn't now, but if the pump is being fully primed (either way) and he can't keep high pressure, then it looks like it is the IP itself to me...

It verifys that there is indeed fuel in the pump instead of guessing. If it runs out when you pull the plug then its got fuel in it.

how would priming thru the pump return line not accomplish the same?

It will but this just verifys by eye there is actually fuel in the pump. Whats the big deal it takes 2 seconds to pull the plug and check.

Mityvac will draw fuel into the clear line attached to the Mityvac. I only pumped enough to get fuel just starting into the line from the return line on the IP. Can I continue to just pump fuel thru the mityvac to see if there is still air in the system or will it damage the mityvac? This is my first experience with the vacuum tool. I am wondering if there could be air still in the system if you wouldn't cycle some fuel through like you would bleeding brakes. Can you tell me how any of you purge the system?

Mityvac will draw fuel into the clear line attached to the Mityvac. I only pumped enough to get fuel just starting into the line from the return line on the IP. Can I continue to just pump fuel thru the mityvac to see if there is still air in the system or will it damage the mityvac? This is my first experience with the vacuum tool. I am wondering if there could be air still in the system if you wouldn't cycle some fuel through like you would bleeding brakes. Can you tell me how any of you purge the system?

timing

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1972390&postcount=9

and fuel

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1972395&postcount=10

Know of anyone in the Tacoma, Wa area who can fix it? Dealers service here doesn't seem to be really up on the TDI. Would any of the scan tools pinpoint the problem? Can I pump liquid thru the MITYVAC without hurting it?

secretofnims said:

Know of anyone in the Tacoma, Wa area who can fix it? Dealers service here doesn't seem to be really up on the TDI. Would any of the scan tools pinpoint the problem? Can I pump liquid thru the MITYVAC without hurting it?

Click to expand...

Ok, everyone has given you some good tricks to get fuel into your pump and most of the time they will work. I have found a method that works for me, for engines that have been apart a while and the pump is dry. I have a medium size funnel that I take a piece of fuel tubing that fits the input to the IP and has an OD that is tight to the funnel tip ID. I pull the hose (6 to 8 inches) through the funnel tip till its near the bottom of the tip on the inside of the funnel. What you end up with is a funnel that has a rubber hose on it that fits the IP. I then put the hose on the input to the IP and fill the funnel 1/2 full with fuel. With all 4 injector lines open at the injector, I crank the engine over till "large" quantities of fuel are coming from all injectors. I then tighten the fuel rail lines at the injectors and crank the engine till it runs. After it smooths out and runs for a minute or two, I shut it off and connect up the fuel lines to a fuel filter that I have vacuumed fuel into. Obviously, this method requires two people or some fancy quy wiring to keep the funnel upright while cranking on the engine. If you have the engine in time, the issue is no fuel to the injectors at the right time which can be caused by air in the pump, lines and injectors. You have to get to the full liquid state in all components before the engine will start and run right. It just does not get fuel when it needs it if air is anywhere in the system.

Don't give up and pay a fortune at a dealer. You and your mechanic can fix this issue.

TW

Get a hold of forum member Oldpoopie--he's in Portland, but he travels.
Good luck!
-BB