I will be attempting this at home on my ramps... I do not yet know how I'm going to get the radiator shroud out with the limited clearance. Vehicle is a 2013 audi A3 with CBEA/DSG. I feel that these are lower than the jetta sportwagens, which I also have.
If you have any further pointers, that would be awesome!
So I just did this job yesterday on 2 jackstands and im actually about to button up the belly pan and be completely finished this morning.
THERE IS A SHORTCUT
But it has its flaws, I found both myself.
Remove airbox, engine cover, belly pan, passenger wheel and passenger wheel well liner.
SHORTCUT: looking from just in front of the transmission, look just past the oil cooler and you'll see a decent size hole in an aluminum bracket. This is the blind hole that the
13mm bolt for the tensioner is in.
It took (1/4"drive): 13mm deepwell,1" extension, swivel joint, 8" extension 1/4male-3/8female adapter (3/8): 8" extension and a 3" extension.
With a bit of patience, you'll get it.
SHORTCOMING: when I put the new tensioner in, I didnt have enough tension on my socket fishing pole. Have a partner remove the old tensioner, clean the pocket and install the new one while you hold the socket fishing pole in.
I ended up getting the socket sideways somehow and the bolt wedged against it. Thought it was tightening but it wasn't. Went about 10 rounds and tried to push/pull the tensioner, the tensioner wasn't attached.
If this happens to you, remove the "throttle tube" (intercooler to intake pipe). Clean the intake inlet well all the way around or get sand inside it... Drain the water out of your intake by disconnecting the lower portion, unplug the ac connector clip, you can do the map sensor before or after you remove the pipe. 2
t30, one by the harmonic balancer and one behind the ac compressor. Will take some finesse to get it out. Now you can basically touch everything you need to. I routed my arm coming in sideways from where the airbox goes.
25nm is the spec I've found for the tensioner bolt.
Cheers!