whoever designed the Day time run lights, need to be whipped...
- Thread starter laminated
- Start date
Jetta_Pilot
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2005
- Location
- West Hill, Ont.
- TDI
- 2015 Passat Highline TDI Candy White (SEL Premium) long gone 2002 Jetta TDI
It is easier by removing the headlight unit.
3 self tapping screws hold the grill and 7 bolts hold the headlight assembly.
3 self tapping screws hold the grill and 7 bolts hold the headlight assembly.
VeeDubTDI
Wanderluster, Traveler, TDIClub Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2000
- Location
- Springfield, VA
- TDI
- ‘18 Tesla Model 3D+, ‘14 Cadillac ELR, ‘13 Fiat 500e
It's difficult, for sure, especially if you have big hands. It can be done without removing the tires if you jack up the car a bit and turn the wheel to the inside.
Shawn MacAnanny
Veteran Member
The ones in the front of the headlight housing? On my 2012 it's like a 2 minute job from the top without removing anything but the access plug from what I remember.
VeeDubTDI
Wanderluster, Traveler, TDIClub Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2000
- Location
- Springfield, VA
- TDI
- ‘18 Tesla Model 3D+, ‘14 Cadillac ELR, ‘13 Fiat 500e
How did you change the daytime running lights from the top? The access holes are located in the front arch of the wheel wells. Do you mean the low and high beam headlights, instead?
Shawn MacAnanny
Veteran Member
The drl has the cap that faces the ground right? I actually didn't even know there was an access there in the wheel well until I just went out there to take this video. I've always gotten them from the top, I forgot which hand I used I could have had it out in 20 seconds probably.
https://youtu.be/WBJJMCQOMjY
https://youtu.be/WBJJMCQOMjY
gprabhu
Active member
I agree with the title. My DRL bulb fell into the housing on Friday. what a PITA. It took me 1.5 hours to fish the bulb out. Of course, removed the grill, headlight. Then when I put it all back together, i forgot to put the DRL cap back on. So loosened the fender liner and got more access that way.
At least, the headlight is easy to remove (just 7 fasteners total). I am scared to think of what I will do if my Mercedes had this issue of bulbs falling into the housing
At least, the headlight is easy to remove (just 7 fasteners total). I am scared to think of what I will do if my Mercedes had this issue of bulbs falling into the housing
VeeDubTDI
Wanderluster, Traveler, TDIClub Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2000
- Location
- Springfield, VA
- TDI
- ‘18 Tesla Model 3D+, ‘14 Cadillac ELR, ‘13 Fiat 500e
Nice job!
The rear brake/tail light isn't so bad. Open trunk, pull off the cover, flip a little tab to remove wire hookup, unscrew the plastic shaft/screw and spring asembly , rear taillight pulls right off. But during this process, I found something that has me concerned. Never had a bulb MELT the contact before.
Just in case the pictures don't show, here's a link to 4 shots. https://goo.gl/photos/ws4pFSFHS7TfyoUT9
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
DRLs? first thing removed from the car after the diesel fuel only sticker on the dash!
first thing removed from the car after the diesel fuel only sticker on the dash!I turned my DRL's off via the Polar-FIS+ and can turn them back on via the cluster menu if I want.DRLs?
Interestingly i find this job easy and have done it multiple times at least replacing cheap LED bulbs from Ali Express.
What I find to be completely ludicrous and miserable job is taking out oil filter housing cap. I broke two of those already out of 7 oil changes I've done.
Shawn MacAnanny
Veteran Member
I dont know why no one else changes the bulbs from up top.
The oil filter housing, i have to agree, terrible design. I havent broken one yet, and i've done every one minus the first 3 free ones, and every time i think how many of these must get messed up within inexperienced quick lubes, or technicians in a hurry.
The oil filter housing, i have to agree, terrible design. I havent broken one yet, and i've done every one minus the first 3 free ones, and every time i think how many of these must get messed up within inexperienced quick lubes, or technicians in a hurry.
Rico567
Top Post Dawg
I found it somewhat easier if I make sure to take out the screws on top that secure the brackets for some pipe or other. Then the pipe can be moved, not a lot, but enough to make the filter easier to remove and re-install. But, as everyone who's attempted it remarks, it is a miserable design......
It's actually about the same design as on the ALH engine. The problem is the stuff near/over the housing. As Rico said, moving that one line that passes close to/over the housing helps. Taking one's time with R&R of the housing is definitely of benefit here.
I replaced a burned out DRL today and I'll add my 2 cents.
First, read this link. This is the most detailed instructions you'll find anywhere.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5643696
The grill.
Getting the grill off is both straight forward and a huge PITA. The 3 screws on top are easy enough, it's pulling the grill off without breaking the grill tabs that's a PITA. The grill pulls straight forward off the front of the car once the top screws are removed. But to do that I had to get out my longest screwdriver and push the bottom tabs out a bit. Once the 3 top screws are removed you can get in behind the grill where you can see the center and end grill tabs. The center tab is the worst. I had to use two long screwdrivers at once, one to push on the cernter tab and the other to push against the bumper. Once I had one screwdriver holding the bumper in place and keeping it from flexing, the center grill tab popped right out. When I put the grill back in I smeared a tiny bit of silicone grease on the tabs in the (probably false) hope that they'll pop right out next time.
The headlight assembly.
Remove the 7 T-25 torx screws, unplug the headlight assembly, and wrestle the headlight assembly out of car. Replace the offending bulb with stock, LEDs, or whatever. I used stock replacement Osram/Sylvania LL 7440.
After the headlight assembly is back in place and plugged in, start with the front and rear bottom screws first as these are the ones that align the headlight assembly with the bumper. After those are in place install the other screws and top bracket.
Unless you are lucky enough have a 6-axis triple jointed wrist, you are not going to get your wrist/hand under the headlight assembly to remove the cover and bulb holder. One has better odds of getting the cover and bulb holder off, but 99.99% of NOT getting everything back in correctly. Key word here is correctly.
As bulbs come in 2-packs I went ahead and replaced the DRL on the other side. Both bulbs had that black haze inside the glass.
First, read this link. This is the most detailed instructions you'll find anywhere.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5643696
The grill.
Getting the grill off is both straight forward and a huge PITA. The 3 screws on top are easy enough, it's pulling the grill off without breaking the grill tabs that's a PITA. The grill pulls straight forward off the front of the car once the top screws are removed. But to do that I had to get out my longest screwdriver and push the bottom tabs out a bit. Once the 3 top screws are removed you can get in behind the grill where you can see the center and end grill tabs. The center tab is the worst. I had to use two long screwdrivers at once, one to push on the cernter tab and the other to push against the bumper. Once I had one screwdriver holding the bumper in place and keeping it from flexing, the center grill tab popped right out. When I put the grill back in I smeared a tiny bit of silicone grease on the tabs in the (probably false) hope that they'll pop right out next time.
The headlight assembly.
Remove the 7 T-25 torx screws, unplug the headlight assembly, and wrestle the headlight assembly out of car. Replace the offending bulb with stock, LEDs, or whatever. I used stock replacement Osram/Sylvania LL 7440.
After the headlight assembly is back in place and plugged in, start with the front and rear bottom screws first as these are the ones that align the headlight assembly with the bumper. After those are in place install the other screws and top bracket.
Unless you are lucky enough have a 6-axis triple jointed wrist, you are not going to get your wrist/hand under the headlight assembly to remove the cover and bulb holder. One has better odds of getting the cover and bulb holder off, but 99.99% of NOT getting everything back in correctly. Key word here is correctly.
As bulbs come in 2-packs I went ahead and replaced the DRL on the other side. Both bulbs had that black haze inside the glass.
Shawn MacAnanny
Veteran Member
Did you try it from the top first? It's not that bad, you just gotta understand how the bulbs clip in an out. And if you can't get it back in, then you can remove all that it's not like it'll create any extra work.
The DLR access is from a round cover under the headlight assembly. There is no top access. I'm not of the lucky ones who can articulate my arm under there and get the bulb holder out and back in. The turn signal bulb however comes straight out the back, that should be easy to replace.
A few months ago I had to change out a corner lamp and did it the way explained in the owner's manual, from the inner fender access point. Never again. It's far easier to remove the grill now that I know how to do it.
A few months ago I had to change out a corner lamp and did it the way explained in the owner's manual, from the inner fender access point. Never again. It's far easier to remove the grill now that I know how to do it.
Shawn MacAnanny
Veteran Member
Yeah I posted a video of me doing it from the top. I couldn't remember which hand I used last time I never even considered removing the headlights or knew there was an access panelThe DLR access is from a round cover under the headlight assembly. There is no top access. I'm not of the lucky ones who can articulate my arm under there and get the bulb holder out and back in. The turn signal bulb however comes straight out the back, that should be easy to replace.
A few months ago I had to change out a corner lamp and did it the way explained in the owner's manual, from the inner fender access point. Never again. It's far easier to remove the grill now that I know how to do it.
https://youtu.be/WBJJMCQOMjY
Jetta_Pilot
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2005
- Location
- West Hill, Ont.
- TDI
- 2015 Passat Highline TDI Candy White (SEL Premium) long gone 2002 Jetta TDI
As far as removing the grill, just pull gently near the bottom and it will pop out. No fiddling with screwdrivers needed. I've done it once and will be doing it again tomorrow, Thursday to replace one LED DRL which only lasted 1 week. Now I'll also be putting in LED fog lights and LED turn signal bulbs on both sides of course. I've already put LED's in the side marker lights.
Also since when installing LED's the polarity is critical, I use an old towel to stand the headlight assembly on its pointy end so I can plug it in and see the lights come on.
Also since when installing LED's the polarity is critical, I use an old towel to stand the headlight assembly on its pointy end so I can plug it in and see the lights come on.
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
I should have said it was the first thing I disabled... (the dash sticker was removed immediately) They are still in there - I just did basically what you did but with VCDS. I run parking lights with fogs (front and rear) when it's not bright and sunny.I turned my DRL's off via the Polar-FIS+ and can turn them back on via the cluster menu if I want.
deAutoLED.com
Vendor
sandwichtx
Member
wheel well
I accessed mine from the wheel well. No need to remove tire. Just turn the steering to tilt tire. You will see an access door.
I accessed mine from the wheel well. No need to remove tire. Just turn the steering to tilt tire. You will see an access door.
