Brake job completed on my nms by me. Any questions ?

Well ive noticed no ones brakes warp or need to be changed or they pay so through lots of research i found out what i needed and did it .

I did all the rotors and pads in about 2 hrs . I got drilled, slotted and zinc washed rotors with pads for about 210 shipped.

Brake o motive was the seller i used and my brother has used them for his firehawk and for his gfs mazda 3 . They work great and dont rust, and ship quick.

The reason mine were warped is bc the car sat so long before i bought it . Only the rear were messed up but since i had all of them i did them all .

Btw my fronts were replaced when i bought it with 28k on the car and no has 51 and the front pads and rotors are perfect , dont know if anyone wants to buy them .


Special tools needed for me , a gm guy were a triple square set , and a caliper wind back tool .

You only need a 14mm triple square unless you wanted the whole set like i did.

First time doing a brake job on a vw and a nms passat and everything went as smooth as possible .

But if anyone has any questions i can help anyone out .

Hey, cool to see you did the install. I might be doing this sooner rather than later if VW won't repair my brakes under warranty. I have a 2014 Passat TDI with 14K miles on it, recently the brakes have been squeaking. Before it was just in the mornings when it was cold which I as used to, and would go away after the first few stops. Now however the squeaking is more prevelant and VERY annoying. Anyways, I'm aware of the 12K mile wear and tear items covered under warranty, next week I'll try to work with the service dept and see if there is anything we can do. If not, I'll be doing what you did. Thanks for the tips on the tools needed, Brake o motive... Off eBay ? What were your brakes doing before you replaced them? Any pictures ?

The rears were warped. Fronts were perfect but since I had all of them I did them all together. No pics

Where did you pickup your rotors and pads?

Ebay. From seller brake o motive

How many miles did you have before you needed to replace your brakes?

I am still on the originals at 42k but I seem to be the exception to the norm around here...LOL.

I guess I'll have to get used to doing brake jobs on my Passat. Two previous vehicles being hybrids, didn't have to worry about it since part of the braking was battery regen. My 07 Chev Avalanche needed rear brakes at about 80k miles, but fronts lasted to over 100k miles. Weird being such a heavy vehicle and doing roughly 50/50 city/hwy, and loaded up most of the time.

im at 51k , but what happened is the car sat for a few months before i bought it , and they were really rusty .So the front were replaced a week or two after i bought it and the rears were fine . probably about 3k ago they started to get bad and it was the rears , i checked the rotors and both left and right on the inside of both was three large grooves.

Im sure the brakes would have lasted longer had they not sat for months and gotten rusty

but with the 14mm triple square and the wind back tool it was a very easy and straightforward job .

Hey another question, do you notice any braking noise with the new rotor / brake combo? I've heard cross drilled and slotted rotors "humm" when your hitting the brakes? I've had Hawk break pads and know that they are great pads, never done CD&S rotors though. Thanks

Hah. It's funny you ask. With my right rear only when braking I get a thick thick thick thick. Say it fast. Sound. Only the right rear. Don't hear it wjth windows up. But only 80 miles on brakes so far. So it might go away.

Cross-drilled and slotted? You fell for the marketing blather.

Bill

Ramairetransam said:

Hah. It's funny you ask. With my right rear only when braking I get a thick thick thick thick. Say it fast. Sound. Only the right rear. Don't hear it wjth windows up. But only 80 miles on brakes so far. So it might go away.

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Hmm, I wonder what it could be? Hey let me know if it goes away or if you have any more problems, I am probably going to do the same upgrade you did if VW doesn't fix my brakes under warranty. I'm at 14K miles, but my pads are jacked up, the whole pad isn't touching the rotor, you can clearly see if without even taking the wheel off. It's like the center of the pad has been eaten away and only the edges (top and bottom) are coming into contact with the rotor. All I hear is squeaking unless they are super heated up

40X40 said:

Cross-drilled and slotted? You fell for the marketing blather.

Bill

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Get out of here. They look better and this isn't a track car. It's a slow ****ing daily driver.

Ramairetransam said:

Get out of here. They look better and this isn't a track car. It's a slow ****ing daily driver.

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Ah, I see. It is a matter of STANCE! LOL.

Bill

What does cross-drilled rotors do for the average driver? By concept, it stays cooler with hard use and multiple brake applications so you may avoid warping, but it also give less surface area for friction to occur between the pads and rotor too. Very high end cars have them but they're designed to provide high performance. As far as lasting longer, I would ask a Porche owner with that option how long their brakes last.

jhinsc said:

What does cross-drilled rotors do for the average driver? By concept, it stays cooler with hard use and multiple brake applications so you may avoid warping, but it also give less surface area for friction to occur between the pads and rotor too. Very high end cars have them but they're designed to provide high performance. As far as lasting longer, I would ask a Porche owner with that option how long their brakes last.

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Well, it does reduce surface area.... which is what you don't want. Some of the race stuff is not advised for street use. But it looks cool and that is more important than function to some.

Bill

oh my god guys , its not going to make much difference , plus brakemotive doesnt sell blanks .

just drilled slotted and zinc washed .

I would be interested to see how well they do in the long term before I would consider putting them on my car. Its your car and all that matters is your satisfaction with them.

ill probably warp them in 40k anyway , these ****ty non vented rotors , just like my last three cars ive had before .

But the brakes stop the car, and dont shutter like before so im happy .

Brakes 102, a good read

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=426733

I'm having a problem finding the seller brake o motive. Any help would be appreciated.

They are not supporters of this site. Try Boraparts (near you) or Idparts, both are trusted vendors who know TDIs inside and out.

Bill

On the 09 I had to take a grinder and remove the edge on my rotor before caliper/pads would slide off.

So I did it on both sides, cleaned it all up, new pads, same rotors, away I went. 200k on rotors.

Haha. Brakes. Wear item. People get all butthurt when they have to replace an item that's designed to wear out and be replaced... Weird.

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

Brakemotive76 is the correct seller name

My steering shakes when applying brakes on the highway. I suspect my rotors are warped - how can I tell if it's front or rear? The car is a 2014 passat with 25k miles, manual trans.
When I had a similar problem with my bmw, the dealer measured the variation in thickness of the rotors to confirm the problem. I don't have a tool to do that. Is there another way? Do the fronts get warped more often or the back?

If it shakes the steering, it's most likely fronts.

It's almost always the fronts when you have brake shudder.

If you drop that anchors hard and you still only hear it more than really feel it, then it's rears, but if it's bad enough to notice, see rule #1, above.

I have a 2001 golf tdi that I bought used, I'm doing the front brakes as they are worn out, apparently someone installed vr6 spindles, the vr6 rotors work fine but can't get the correct calipers, as they look OK but are 4mm away from the rotors, making for a long pedal stroke! We have tried most if not all calipers and have come up short! It's not just the calipers but the mounting brackets on the calipers that is the problem! Has anyone encountered this? If so what is the fix?