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TDI Injection pump

Hello,

Total newbie but stressed.

Jon is the mechanic and I try my best at the computer end of it, he suggested getting on this board for some help. Please bear with me.

After months of searching we finally found and bought a jetta, the carfax was clean and after driving daily no problems. It sat for a few days and now won't start, it turns over but after many tries we are coming to the conclusion the ignition pump is out. Does any one have any thought or advice on rebuilds or new ignition pumps?

The Jetta is a 1999 with just under 100k and we have only had it a few weeks. We are very frustrated and are seeking help! As this as kind of urgent I wanted to ask the question and I will fill out all the profile information as time allows it... for now we have a new/used car sitting in the driveway and between work life are very frustrated espeacially after bragging about how much we loved it for the first 1000 miles we put on it!

Any advice will be appreciated!

Jon and Christa

Two questions.

One, is it an early or late ("New", 1999.5, Mk4, A4) 99?

Two, does your glow plug light come on?

If not, it's a failed relay 109. Common problem on early A4 Jettas, Golfs, and New Beetles.

Another thing to look at is this:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=1214327

jonandchrista said:

After months of searching we finally found and bought a jetta, the carfax was clean and after driving daily no problems. It sat for a few days and now won't start, it turns over but after many tries we are coming to the conclusion the ignition pump is out.

Click to expand...

If the battery is weak, if the engine does not turn over fast enough, no fuel will be injected. I think the minimum engine speed is 250 rpm -- if the engine isn't cranking that fast, the engine control module (ECM) won't order the injection of fuel.

What does happen when you try to start it? As asked above, does the glow plug light come on when you turn the key? Does the engine turn over? Do you have any smoke coming out of the back? Have you had the battery checked?

Latest update,

It is a late body style, OBD2 computer interface, revealed no troubled codes with ignition on. Car not running an inspection of the pump. has revealed a small leak which appears to be under the mounting bracket on the right side, looking into the motor with the hood open. It only leaks when the car has been turned over and pressure has been created. Logic suggests turning over the engine with out the mounting bracket would not be wise. But would provide the best view. Question: most comonly where would this leak be coming from?

Thanks for the advice so far and we will keep you updated.

Jon and Christa

looks like a great site

I'm having some power issues with my car and thought I'd poke around on the 'net before taking it into a mechanic. Google search brought up this site and looks like a great place for info. Hopefully I'll have a success story to post about soon.

all at once

as an intro, i celebrate if i make it thru an oil change. i don't, however, want to pay dealership prices, so here's my trouble:
('02 Jetta; 57k miles)

#1. the glowplug warning indicator light came on. i'm in Georgia, so i wasn't too urgent about that at this point. i did the test - measure ohms, black lead to body frame and red lead to tip of glow plug. they were all about the same resistance, but at 65ohms. since they were all the same, i concluded that they were not the culprit.

#2. a random loss of power upon acceleration, although it's becoming more frequent. has happened when moving from a stop at a traffic signal, and when speeding up from a crawl in traffic. engine just goes down to idle rpm. if i release the pedal and push again, it'll pick back up.

#3. has started to have trouble shifting (automatic) - so far, just up. just revs up to about 4k. then i can't take any more and release the pedal, and then it'll shift.

oh yeah, and my brake light switch has gone screwy (again). so i can't get it out of park, or neutral (i have to reach down by the pedal and fiddle with it, till it wakes up). also, my brake light has stayed on when i've gotten out of the car.

the switch is easy enough - since i've replaced it once already. if there are any tips on the others, please don't hold back.
thanks.

#2 is related to the brake light switch.

I THINK #3 might be as well. When was the transmission fluid last changed (VW will say it's a lifetime fluid, though), as there could be an actual transmission issue, though...

And, was the glow plug light FLASHING? If so, then it's related to the brake light switch as well.

thanks for that quick reply.

i've ordered a switch and hopefully will be here today, so we'll see.
btw, if you're brake lights come on by themselves, while parked at work, when you go to leave, the battery will probably be drained *sigh*.

the glow plug light was flashing. if it doesn't go away, with a new switch, i'll try replacing the harness.

the transmission fluid was changed, around 25k. if it's "lifetime", then i'd think it'd be good still.

Hope someone out there can help.
I recently bought a second hand tunit 1 module off ebay, only thing is the fitting instructions weren't included. I contacted Tunit and they won't supply the fitting instructions and want to charge £60 to fit it. Has anyone got the fitting instruction's or picture's of where I attach the wire coming off the unit.

drewbowski said:

#1. the glowplug warning indicator light came on.
#2. a random loss of power upon acceleration
#3. has started to have trouble shifting
and my brake light switch has gone screwy

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so i replaced my brake light switch, and, not to be looking into the mouth of a horse gift, but all my symptoms have gone away.
i've looked at the schematic for the switch, but have failed to connect the dots, as to how these all cleared up. it's only been one long drive, so maybe they're not gone, but still...can someone explain that to me?

drewbowski said:

so i replaced my brake light switch, and, not to be looking into the mouth of a horse gift, but all my symptoms have gone away.
i've looked at the schematic for the switch, but have failed to connect the dots, as to how these all cleared up. it's only been one long drive, so maybe they're not gone, but still...can someone explain that to me?

Click to expand...

Here's what you reported:
#1. the glowplug warning indicator light came on. ...i did the test ... they were not the culprit.
No they were not, because VW also uses that indicator to show to brake light/switch problem. They just don't clearly inform you about that.

#2. a random loss of power upon acceleration... engine just goes down to idle rpm. if i release the pedal and push again, it'll pick back up.
Because the ECM won't accept inputs from the brake pedal and the accelerator pedal at the same time. If it thinks the brake pedal is depressed, then it drops engine speed to idle.

#3. has started to have trouble shifting (automatic) - so far, just up. just revs up to about 4k. then i can't take any more and release the pedal, and then it'll shift. not sure about this symptom

...so i can't get it out of park, or neutral (i have to reach down by the pedal and fiddle with it, till it wakes up).
The TCM (transmission control module) won't let you shift UNLESS it sees the brake pedal depressed.

So that's why bhtooefr predicted that all your problems would go away with a new brake pedal switch.

Well, almost everything -- it sounds like your tranny is stuck in SPORT mode. Is that really a problem?

A4 timing belt

I recently purchased a 2001 Jetta TDIfrom a VW dealer. It had 62,000 miles when I got it and now has 67,000. This is a great web site and I have been enjoying looking around. The thread on timing belts caught my attention and led me to understand that it gets replaced at 60k. This surprised me because my owner's manual states that an automatic transmission Jetta gets a belt change at 40k. But it also says the same thing at 60 an 80k. Manual cars (mine is a 5 speed) are not differentiated. This confused me more so I called VW of America and the technical consltant I spoke to said the belt was inspected at 40,60 and 80k and replaced only if needed and definitly replaced at 100k. He was quite positive of this. They even gave me a reference number of the conversation if I had trouble in the future. I looked at my belt and it does not appear cracked or worn. I sure don't want to replace the belt unnecessarily nor do I want to leave it too long and ruin the engine if it breaks. I called 4 VW dealers and they would replace the belt for $950-1300! I sure didn't expect an expediture like this on a car I just bought to save money. The car is VW certified for 24K. Advice?

Robert Lerch said:

I recently purchased a 2001 Jetta TDIfrom a VW dealer. It had 62,000 miles when I got it and now has 67,000. The car is VW certified for 24K. Advice?

Click to expand...

The answer is, it depends. Specifically, it depends on the VIN number of your Jetta.

Midway through the 2001 model year, around April 2001, the TDI timing belts were switched. The older ones were good for 60k miles in cars with manual transmissions (only 40k for automatics). The newer timing belts were rated at 80k miles.

(Build date is shown on the drivers-side B-pillar)

If your Jetta has the older 60k-mile belt, then it absolutely should have been changed at the dealership before they certified it. So I think you should go back there and insist that they install a new timing belt (and tensioner) for free.

If they look up the VIN and conclude that you got a newer engine with the newer long-life TB, then ask them to put that in writing. Get everything in writing, so if the TB breaks, they are responsible.

Change timining belt

The build date on the b pillar is 12/00 and the belt looks like the the lower milage belt pictured on this web site. I learned all this from the knowlegable people here in the TDI club. I'll call the dealership and see what they have to say about changing the belt seeing as the car is/was certified. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll post their response.

hey tdi clud I have been whatching this sightfor about a year, since i got my beetle. love the info here. but i need some help. my 2000 beetle tdi just stoped running today just like it ran out of deisel it spit once then ran for about another 100 yards then that was it. i checked the fuel filter replaced about 10,000 miles ago. checked the timing belt, thinking that it might be the injecter pump my car has 117,000 miles on it. i bought it used please help with some info

Perhaps relay 109? When you try to start it, does the gp light come on, and you just crank and crank?

i did not check that relay thanks for the info i will check that tonight when i get home

i checked the relay 109 it looked to be working fine ,also the gp light goes out when i turn the engine over any other suggestions do not want to take it to the dealer. the nearest is 2 hours away

If the gp light come on when you turn the key, then goes off in a reasonable time, then the relay 109 would appear to be working. However, I'd swap it out with a new one anyway, especially if it's black.

In the beetle, do you have a clear hose to view the fuel going from the filter to the IP? If so, look to make sure that diesel is going through it.

How does one "check" the fuel filter? Just wondering what you might have done there.

Are you getting white smoke out the tailpipe when cranking? If so, ignore the following items concerning checking for fuel.

A total stopping is likely to be electrical, or fuel related. I'd check to see if fuel is getting to the injectors. Crack the #3 injector line and turn it over. Have a rag around the line, since if fuel is getting there, it will do some squirting and you don't want a big mess. If no fuel, then you've got to figure out why. If fuel, then we start wondering why no start.

You said the tb is fine - I assume then that it is tight, and couldn't have skipped a tooth.

Be careful with the cranking. The starter motor should be turning the engine over for more than a few seconds at a time, with rest to cool off between attempts. In this type of situation, it is also very handy to have a battery charger handy, to try to keep the battery juiced up until the car is running again.

thanks again for the info on the fuel filter i pulled it off and blowed through it to see if it was clear i also just checked to see if i had fuel coming out of the #3injector it seams to be getting plenty of fuel. the tb seams to be tight culd it be the ecm does that go bad any ideas would be very helpfull thanks again

When the nb "died", did you have any smoke or strange noises?

Any smoke when you crank it?

no none that i noticed i went ahead and took the cover off my timing cover and took good look at the belt and noticed that there was a lot of play also it looked like the original one so its very possible that the belt jumped time it needs one put in it any way also it the 1.9 a interfearence motor. so thats the heads up thanks we will see if that fixes it

If there's a lot of play, you may soon be the owner of a remanufactured head. You may need more expert advice than I can give, but I'd start by trying to turn the head by hand to feel if there's anything hitting. Probably be a good idea to take off the head to see if there is any evidence of "kissing" between the valves and pistons. Perhaps take pictures so those with better eyes than mine can advise you.

It's not good when the timing belt jumps, and even worse news when the engine stops because of it.

Can any one tell me what these codes are? P 3130. P 0380 and P 1557. Got them Via OBD ii.

hey whats up the p0380 is a glow plug code i just had that on my beetle called the dealer and they sad that i should replace the glow plugs and if it had over 100,000 miles i should replace the gp harness the other ones i don't know

help: have 03 jetta tdi, Tried to start it about 3 mo. ago, cranked went to approx.1500 rpm an died. This had happened before a couple of times but it always started. dealer replaced lock cylinder an egr valve (expensive), Happened again 15 days later,wouldn't start. dealer couldn't find problem started for them. Tried to start it tonight after 10 days scared to drive it, after 5th time it started. does anybody have any ideas??.It has 74000 miles.

Thanks

I don't yet have a TDI, and applaud you that you had the foresight to "figure it out". It's no longer just a matter of bucks, but a way to keep the oil cartels looking over their shoulders. Biodiesel will help even more.
Your investment in your rides makes more sense every day and helps educate those that had no clue in the not to distant past, not to mention that your choice makes a great investment for you. I regret that I did not have your insight (even if oil drops to $40/Barrel). Thanks for the websight. John

rdkern thanks for the advice i just finished up my timing belt job on my new beetle. boy what a job . but the thing runs no codes im so proud! thanks for all the help but i have to still hook it up to the computer to set the injector pump

Timing Chains?

I have a VW Golf Diesel and it has a timing chain instead of a timing belt, which does not have to be changed as often as the belt. My mechanic said it doesn't have to be changed until about 120,000 miles...its a strong chain and it wont just break like a belt.

Do you agree?