5 Cylinder Volvo 2.5 TDI

Hi,

I own a Volvo V70 2.5 TDI (5 Cylinder Engine, not the V6 TDI from Audi). it uses a VP37 11mm Pump and has Stock 0,216 Nozzles.
The Engine Code is AEL.

I changed the ECU to a EDC15VM+. A Few months ago I bought some cheap 0,320 nozzles (Well to be true I think its not the exact size). They work, but I had often issues with starting the car even with glow plugs. So I swtiched back to the Stock nozzles this weekend.

I have experiance with the 1.9 PD TDI, so I am not new in this Topic (btw. I am sorry for my english, which sometimes might be hard to understand )

My Goal with this car would be around 260HP and about 550-600Nm of Torque. These values should be easy reachable with this engine. but I still would be Happy, if some of you could help me to pick the right parts to get to the power I am aiming for.

What noozles would you recommand and which Turbo?
I need about 80mg/H of fuel, soe the nozzles should be maybe 80% bigger than the Stock ones are?
From my calculations I should need about 2,1bar of boost until 4500rpm....but it would be better to have some extra room to get higher

Of caurse I would like to have some plug and play stuff, because its just easier. At the moment the Stock K14 Turbocharger is doing the job, with about 1,3Bar.

How much Fuel can my Stock injectors deliver? The Map only goes to 50mg/H but it shouldnt be a problem, because I just have to raise the voltage and adjust the map a bit.....which leads to the next question:

Is there a way to calculate the Duration of the Injection via Voltage?

The calibration of new nozzles isnt a Problem, because I have a Wideband o2 sensor attached.

Well, I think thats enough for the start

As a rough estimate, your 260 HP goal in the AEL scales equivalently to about 208 HP in a 4-cyl VE TDI, so as far as fuel options are concerned, whatever supports ~208 HP in the latter application will extend to your AEL. This is easier said than done, as the earlier generation VE TDIs (i.e. 1Z/AHU/AEL) develop somewhat less power with the same modifications than do the latter (i.e. ALH/ASV/AXG). Updating the ECU as you have already done is a first and important step.

For turbo, something like a GT(B)2260VK(LR) would be a good match.

Injectors, a "good", not cheap, set of 0.280/.320 should do the trick.

Probably not necessary for 260 HP, but there are 13mm upgrades for the 5-cyl VP37.

You might want to look into internal engine strengthening for reliability - connecting rods and valve springs (higher spring rate for higher boost pressure) come immediately to mind.

Study these and contact your compatriot sali87:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=346240
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=467193
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=480309

I would go for 0.280 Nozzles and Holset HE221W or KKK K16 (atego) turbo.

You also need better valve springs and good remap.

I wrote sali87.

Which exact nozzles should I get? I mean from which supplier, which brand etc.?

How do I notice, that my Valve springs are not good enough? And which should I get?


Back to my 0.320 nozzles. is there a way i could say, that they are bad?
When I start the car in cold weather, it feels like ony cylinder starts after another. So the car works with two cylinders, than after a second the next starts working and so on. Is this a nozzle problem?
I did not change/adjust the Quantaty adjuster on the pump, and i did not change anything in the maps, so noithing, which could be related with starting.

Might it be, that the voltage is to low in idle for the quantaty adjuster? I read that it should be about 1v at idle?

The IQ (injection quantity - Einspritzmenge) can definitely be too low numerically if you simply changed nozzles from original 216 micron to 320 and did nothing else. There are instructions how to change this at the injection pump (I think you're too far out simply to use the ECU adaptation, but you can try that first, instructions also can be found by searching around here).

I believe the specifications range from 1.6 - 14.0 mg/R, but you should target somewhere between 3.0-8.0 mg/R. The lower end of the range will give a feeling of more power but also more smoke. If you go below the lower limit, you will get symptoms as you describe, and if you go too far on on the other side, you will have more difficulty starting.

Yucca said:

I would go for 0.280 Nozzles and Holset HE221W or KKK K16 (atego) turbo.

You also need better valve springs and good remap.

Click to expand...

Sound advice! I have rebuilt a ACV 2.5 tdi transporter t4 engine and i used older AFN inner springs and tallers to upgrade to twin valve springs. They are dirt cheap at the dealers and help with valve float at high boost levels. I would also port the cylinder head whilst its out, you get better breathing and spool if using larger turbos. I used bosio race 520 with brilliant results although my engine is a bit smokey due to using an older k14 hybrid with vw lt hotside and larger billet compressor wheel. I intend to go vnt and use a modern gtb2056v turbo or even a gtb2260vk in near future. So far the van its very driveable and wants better brakes and antiroll bars already! Tuning its a slippery slope my friend...

I will change the Springs, when something with the head gasket goes bad and than I will also use stronger bolts. But for now i will just note the information

Ok, this weekend i will put the 0.320 nozzles back and adjust the QA to a "normal operating voltage".


btw. i dont use the maf. I am building an converter, which gets the map signal and "manipulates" it to fit the maf signal, maybe I will add lambda support.

Did someone find a software switch for IQ by MAP on the VP37 Files? On PD engines many Versions have one.


Are there more than one version of the GTB2260VK? The one, which is used in BMW X5... has som V band style connections for both exhaust sides.

dont build a convertor, just switch map based in the ecu and use the temperature correction map also, otherwise the smokelim only works at one temperature correctly.

for starting if you have much higher than stock pop pressure you need to add a bit of fuel in the starting fuel map to compensate for the higher leaking losses in the pump head and also generally because of the poorer atomisation.

I also run unknown brand .320 and they really require a dump of fuel with 10mm pump and always start with the usual grey smoke =)

for turbo id use one of new bmw 27x hp. its a vzk and has pretty recent vane and bearing design. and uses vband at both sides.

Sascha712 said:

Did someone find a software switch for IQ by MAP on the VP37 Files? On PD engines many Versions have one.

Click to expand...

Google it and you will find how to do it!