DSG Auto DMF Failing or Failures Thread

From the oil circuit diagram, the oil's going through the filter before it hits the pump.

Not sure how mine ended up that way then. I hope to God it don't happen again.

oilhammer said:

I just took mine apart, it was spotless inside. Its little screens are like new.

Click to expand...

That's good to hear. What did you think of the teardown process? Did you think it was difficult?

jtgott317 said:

That's good to hear. What did you think of the teardown process? Did you think it was difficult?

Click to expand...

Not at all, but I was not worried about putting it back together either.

I did accidentally rip the electrical unit apart, so that was a no-no.

I know now not to remove those few screws.

It is actually a pretty simple valve body really, even with the control unit integral with it.

El Dobro said:

Someone here may still have a link to the DSG self study online. I'm pretty sure it showed an oil flow diagram.

Click to expand...

jtgott317 said:

http://www.evosoft.dk/diagrams/DSG_02E.pdf
Here was where I was getting a lot of my info from.

Click to expand...

http://www.natef.org/NATEF/media/NATEFMedia/VW%20Files/DSG-SSP.pdf

is another source..... later version...

It looks to me like the suction filter should keep the trash out of the pump and the other filter filters the oil that sprays on the gears etc in the gearbox after the oil cooler.
I don't know where the metal would come from other then the pump.
This would have me looking at the pump for problems.
This trash is a symptom of the problem. They need to be cleanse, but the source of the metal needs to be found.

redbarron55 said:

It looks to me like the suction filter should keep the trash out of the pump and the other filter filters the oil that sprays on the gears etc in the gearbox after the oil cooler.
I don't know where the metal would come from other then the pump.
This would have me looking at the pump for problems.
This trash is a symptom of the problem. They need to be cleanse, but the source of the metal needs to be found.

Click to expand...

I'm about 99% positive the metal/debris is from the former clutch pack. It was pretty chewed up. But you guys bring up a good point on how the debris would get past the filter.

Watch out for snapping pump drive shaft. A little solid debris is all it takes to snap the shaft off. It is an available part, but how do you get the rest of the debris out that caused this? Anyway, that was the conversation I had with helpline. For one, about $50 part, we replaced a whole transmission to be sure the car didn't come back and to keep the customer happy.

Ultimately this comes up whenever there is debris floating around in an automatic. Unless I ran a transmission shop that hot dipped and flushed everything I wouldn't fix that transmission. And even if I did, the labor to fix that right would be atrocious. Now my car, as a project, that's a different story.

Jason

Hey guys, I am trying to source the correct part. I found these two but not sure which one is correct. I have a 2006 Jetta with a DSG transmission. Could y'all tell me which is right?

http://www.idparts.com/luk-17-050-clutch-kit-p-740.html?gclid=CIe526aihtICFVA6gQodWw4Hiw

http://www.idparts.com/dsg-flywheel...-p-1956.html?gclid=COWxsoCjhtICFUU9gQodX7sFmw

Thanks

You want the DSG flywheel. NOT the clutch.

Tony

You want this one.

http://www.idparts.com/dsg-flywheel...-p-1956.html?gclid=COWxsoCjhtICFUU9gQodX7sFmw

Thanks for the info.

Are these the transmission mount bolts that are TTY and need to be replaced as well? I ordered the DMF and that came with the flywheel bolts but if I understand correctly I need to replace all these as well?

http://www.idparts.com/dsg-transmission-install-bolt-set-a5mkvi-p-2548.html

thesorcerer94 said:

Thanks for the info.

Are these the transmission mount bolts that are TTY and need to be replaced as well? I ordered the DMF and that came with the flywheel bolts but if I understand correctly I need to replace all these as well?

http://www.idparts.com/dsg-transmission-install-bolt-set-a5mkvi-p-2548.html

Click to expand...

I would use them. VW uses a lot of bolts on the one time use. Do it!!

I know this thread has been brought back from a few years ago an now i am adding on it too, but alot of you seem to not be bothered by it as i have seen you be very helpful and i thank you for that...
My issues is after reading all this info,,...it's so overwhelming. like what the hell have i got my self into. damn, cadilac seems to be cheaper to repair over time. I have had the timing set done, new rotors an pads, a tranny was put in just before i got the car i found out. the ac or cooling fans won't come on or maybe both. got it narrowed down to that i think without someone doing a vag scan on it to test things. air bag light is back on after the battery was unhooked. dealer reset it at the time the timing set was done. now i have been hearing the rattling going on and thought it was the ac compressor. well it's the DMF for sure. found this out a few days ago when i was test power leads for the compressor an cooling fans......***.. you gota be rich to own one of these cars and the dealers seem to be getting rich off repairing these cars. I haven't told the gf about the DMF yet, she's guna freak and probably start crying because we just can't keep up. I can do the work myself and will take longer being a first time dealing with these cars in that area.
Anyways, just confiming the above DMF pt# 03G105266CG above is for my car also so i know. VIN#3VWCT81K06M852015

I understand that this is a very old forum and for TDI's however my mk5 R32 has similar issues that no ones been able to diagnose yet.

When car is cold it makes the DMF rattling noise that your able to find on YouTube. () specifically around 40 seconds.
Once warm this noise disappears however I get very audible clunks when slowing down with the car downshifting. From 4th-3rd, 3rd-2nd and 2nd-1st in drive.

Doesn't always occur but clunk always happens when going from 2nd to first. Can also be felt through the floor occasionally.
Car shifts up fine and only heard the clunk noise once when shifting up and that was whilst using the paddles and shifting at low RPM.
Also going to note that the car (very very rarely has only happened twice) doesn't let the clutch out when pulling away from the lights slowly so the car just sits there and revs untill I reapply the break and take off again. I'm aware this is probably the MU however due to it happening so rarely this isnt the top concern at the moment.

Has slowly gotten worse and its starting to worry me. I'm thinking that it is the DMF after researching for a few hours.
I'm looking for advice on what it could be. Its my first car and I even paid slightly to much (due to impeccable service history) so that these sorts of issues wouldn't happen. Worked a long time to be able to afford it and just trying to not get ripped off getting it fixed.
Just looking for some advice/ guidance. Thanks.

Well I get to throw my hat in the ring and announce I am a proud owner of a failed DMF. didn't really notice anything out of the ordinary until this morning. looks like it came on pretty fast for me or I missed the earlier signs. it's bad enough now that I don't think it's safe do drive or I risk further damage

so what's the latest consensus on the newest lastest most up to datest DMF to replace the stock one? IDParts? Dealership? somewhere else? what about the SMF? are they still frowned upon or have they been used with good success. how about any other parts that are recommended to replace? haven't really kept up on the current state of flywheels

As far as I know there is no SMF for DSG. That is a viable manual trans option, however.

They have been update and newer ones act different enough that techs first thought the new part was broken. But confirmed with VW tech line they are normal

Jason

ok. so it looks as if the Luk is the latest part. is there places to avoid purchasing from? like is there cheap Chinese knockoffs that I should avoid by purchasing from a particular place or is Amazon or whatever generally safe enough?

any know for sure if the CJAA DMF126 Dual mass flywheel will work in my BRM? found only one old thread where someone used it and said it worked but nothing else. apparently it's 1mm thicker or the ring gear is

or is the newer DMF092 been proven in higher HP BRMs and upgraded DMFs not worth worrying about?

2004LB7 said:

any know for sure if the CJAA DMF126 Dual mass flywheel will work in my BRM? found only one old thread where someone used it and said it worked but nothing else. apparently it's 1mm thicker or the ring gear is

or is the newer DMF092 been proven in higher HP BRMs and upgraded DMFs not worth worrying about?

Click to expand...

I have replaced the DMF on my 06 BRM DSG at 143k. Since then I got a Malone Stage 1.5 tune until 260k and since then a Malone Stage 5 tune. The DMF started rattling at 295k. I always drove the car conservatively. I have been told by Malone that a stage 5 tune is providing 150-170 HP. All I know is that the engine has a lot of torque.

yeah, I guess that's one way to look at it. it'd probably be another 100k miles & many years later before it became an issue again. and who knows if I'll even have the car then. looks like I'll just purchase the upgraded LuK DMF092

I purchased the vehicle at 130k miles and I was told by the previous owner that the DMF was replaced with the upgraded one not long ago. who knows if that true or not as there is no real way to check short of pulling the trans. I'm at 160k miles now so if true then this one may have lasted a little more then 30k with a stage 5 tune. if not, then it lasted 160k miles (30k with stage 5 tune) and I'm inclined to think the latter is more likely.

replaced the DMF over the weekend. had trouble getting the transmission twisted enough to get the room that I ended up pulling the lower A arm mount that was in the way and pulled the transmission out. Transmission went in easier then taking it out. all went pretty good. rebooted the diver side CV axle while I had it out as it had torn boots. old DMF rotated approximately 1.5 inches, new one is about 1/2 inch

I want to say it shifts better now but that may be the placebo effect. certainly quieter if nothing else

2004LB7 said:

replaced the DMF over the weekend. had trouble getting the transmission twisted enough to get the room that I ended up pulling the lower A arm mount that was in the way and pulled the transmission out. Transmission went in easier then taking it out. all went pretty good. rebooted the diver side CV axle while I had it out as it had torn boots. old DMF rotated approximately 1.5 inches, new one is about 1/2 inch

I want to say it shifts better now but that may be the placebo effect. certainly quieter if nothing else

Click to expand...

I'm curious.... when on the highway cruising at 65 mph then accelerate, does it vibrate as it is being under load from the engine? (as if it cant handle it anymore)

calimustang said:

I'm curious.... when on the highway cruising at 65 mph then accelerate, does it vibrate as it is being under load from the engine? (as if it cant handle it anymore)

Click to expand...

no. it is pretty solid with it's acceleration. it does have a little bit of a shudder sometimes upon accelerating from a stop that I think may be due to the engine mounts but once moving it is smooth all the way up at any speed or throttle