05 Passat Timing belt chg.

My first Passat belt chg. The belt seems tight to go on. Book says to install belt on all pullies & water pump last, well I have tried several different ways. It is not on yet. I even tried putting old belt on, just to see if it would go, did not get it on either. I have all the holding tools in place. The old belt come off hard. gt

Take the cam sprocket off, push it up under the belt, and put it up on to the cam.

Passat timing belt

Thanks Oilhammer, I will try that!!!! What about the tool holding cam, it is in the way, do I take it out & will cam move? gt

Passat Timing Belt

Well just to let you know I DID get the Passat belt on. I had to let the tensioner get to loosened postion. The manual says to have the tensioner pined. Belt was still tight fit. Everything lined up after turning engine over with wrench two different times. Started fine. The air filter intake was 2" deep in bugs of all kinds, no way enough air was getting thru. The snow screen was real dirty. Air filter was REAL dirty, no big items, just dirt. The screen cuts down on bugs getting to filter. Dealer had been doing service on this car. None of this was ever looked at. Mileage 103,000 miles 05 Passat, Getting it rocket chipped now. gt

cam and tentioner

Well i dont think there's a need to take the cam sproket off or to undo the bolt ,
But if you undo the tentioner and pull it out a little until the locating bit of it is
not in the plastic slot it turn's around and give's you a little more to play with.
Also if you undo the three bolts on the cam and play about with the position on the elongated hole's but just remember you need enough movement left in the slot's to get equal tention on both side's of the belt.........
its hard to explain..............

Passat timing belt changeout

Our 2004 is nearing the 80k mileage mark so I will soon be looking at a belt change. Anyone have a rough rundown of what the best method of performing this is? Would you say that it would be a wise investment to order the Bentley CD? I think I already know the answer to that...
I read on Passat World forum that apparently the best method for the gassers is to put the car in "service position" which means to pull the front clip off to expose the engine. They all say it isn't that big a deal to do. Anybody have an opinion on this? Thanks up front.

PDeezul said:

Our 2004 is nearing the 80k mileage mark so I will soon be looking at a belt change. Anyone have a rough rundown of what the best method of performing this is? Would you say that it would be a wise investment to order the Bentley CD? I think I already know the answer to that...

Click to expand...

I do believe that 04 and 05 are 100k belts. I think changing at 90 would be okay and even up to 100k would be fine too. So why are you thinking to change at 80? I am curious as to why.

Sorry for that, I am not planning to change it at 80k, I only put that in there as a reference point that I am soon going to have to change the belt....I'll probably do it at 90k....although I have heard of belts letting go around 80k...

gt said:

My first Passat belt chg. The belt seems tight to go on. Book says to install belt on all pullies & water pump last, well I have tried several different ways. It is not on yet. I even tried putting old belt on, just to see if it would go, did not get it on either. I have all the holding tools in place. The old belt come off hard. gt

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Please update your TDI Club profile with your car information so we can help you better. Thanks.

Question: How many miles are on your 2005 Passat? The OEM interval is 100K. -Sloppy

PDeezul said:

Anyone have a rough rundown of what the best method of performing this is? Would you say that it would be a wise investment to order the Bentley CD?

Click to expand...

You know the answer... the only question is: CD or Book form...

Have you downloaded MOGolf's "how-to" yet ?
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/BEW_timing_belt_procedure.pdf and don't forget to look at Deafbug's additional comments:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=160306

All the best,

Yuri.

Hi I just did 2 Passat TDI PD's last week (my own and a family members)...i didn't bother with 'the service position'. i just took the whole front panel off...it only takes 20/25 mins more and you then end up with this..







Which gives you access like this






I also changed the water pumps on both cars. The price for the family members parts came to £90 (pattern parts) and my own car £143 ( i used genuine VW Timing belt kit and water pump. Both cars took around 4 to 5 hours...stopping for coffe breaks an all

Stick

Mr. Shifter, thanks for that....ok, so how difficult is it to get the whole front clip off? Is this outlined in the Bentley procedures or did you just "wing it"? Did you have to use any special tools during the belt replacement procedure?

Do you find MoGolf's procedure accurate?
1) Cam locked
2) crank locked or pretty near the locking point
3) loosen tensioner nut
4) turn tensioner counter clockwise until pin can be inserted
5) insert pin
6) turn tensioner clockwise until stop
7) snug nut so tensioner doesn't move
8) loosen 3 cam bolts
9) at this point the belt should be loose enough to remove. Slip off water pump then cam.
10) lock crank at TDC
11) turn cam counter clockwise to end against bolts
12) slip belt on cam sprocket making sure as much slack is removed from crank to cam with cam at full counter clockwise position
13) slip belt on water pump, cam sprocket may move clockwise while you do this
14) unsnug nut on tensioner
15) turn tensioner counter clockwise to stop
16) remove pin in tensioner
17) turn tension to set tension
18) tighten tenioner nut
19) tighten cam bolts
20) remove locks

At this point the belt should be installed with correct tension.

Note that the tension is off the belt when the tensioner pin is in it and it is then turned back clockwise until stopped. The cam bolts are loose while you install the belt making sure that there is no slack from crank, past tensioner and up around the cam sprocket, then loop it over the water pump.

If you can't easily slip it over the water pump then either there is too much slack on the crank-tensioner-cam "side" or the tensioner is not set to the "untensioned" state or the belt is "off a tooth or two" in position on the cam.

21) turn engine two rotations
22) verify that cam and crank can be locked

If the cam and crank cannot be locked

23) turn as necessary to lock the cam and the crank is near locking position and insert cam lock pin
24) loosen cam hub bolts
25) turn crank counter clockwise so that pin on locking device is nearly in the hole by the width of the "pin" and will go in the hole as you turn the crank clockwise
26) turn crank clockwise until pin goes in the hole
27) tighten cam hub bolts
28) remove locking tools and turn engine clockwise two rotations
29) double check locking positions

This procedure fine tunes the TDC of cylinder 1 with the cam position.


YMZ: Do I understand correctly that the manual does not cover the TDI, only the CD? And thanks for the links to MoGolf's Jetta....just wish there was one out there for the PD-Passat (BHW)

Stick shifter, your car is a manual hence the screen name right?? Looks like maybe a 1.9 as well??

Another advantage to getting the Bentley manual, not just on the CD, but by direct download from Bentley, is that you get the most recent updates. One manual's purchase gives you license to load the manual onto two computers, like your laptop and your desktop. You can print out any pages that you'd like to hold in your hand at the car, and getting them greasy is no harm.

To PDeezul:
Hi, sorry for the delay in answering. MoGolfs proceedure looks correct to me...but getting to that stage (fitting the belt/timing the engine) is different on the Passat than the Jetta/Golf. The Golf/Jetta have transverse mounted engines (making it that bit more awkward IMHO). The passat engine sits fore and aft (as seen from the above pictures).
The tool i used for locking the crankshaft sprocket is as shown in the link..
http://www.toolsinstock.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=13902
Make sure you get the correct one for the P.D engine...first one i got had a different pitch on the teeth (although it could have still worked). I used a Haynes manual to do the job ( a bently cd/manual would be just fine for this job too).
Make sure you get the correct tensioner roller for your car before pulling everything apart....Upto year 2002 use a hydraulic type tensioner and from there onwards use the friction type tensioner as shown in the above picture. Apart from the crankshaft locking tool, there were no other special tools needed for my car (2003). The other car which had the hydrualic tensioner aslo needed a special little 'fork' type tool (in the above kit) to hold the damper back...you could easily make one of these tho (manual gave dimensions for this). Also there is no need to take the cam sprokect off...and as you can see from my pics my sprocket was turned right back against the slots (anti clockwise). I locked the camshaft in place with a 6mm drillbit (chuck end obviously)...through a slot in the camshaft hub and the 6mm 'locking' hole in the head.
The extra work involved to do the job like i did means the following..
Disconnect and drain radiator hoses (dead easy..just 2 spring clips)
Disconect headlight cables (where they plug into light clusters)
Disconect 3 plugs underneath the power steering reservoir cover (Cooling fan, bonnet switch,AC clutch).
Disconect another plug going to the A.C compressor (at bottom, beside compressor..its a green plug, single wire)
Disconnect the air temp probe in front of the radiator
Remove 2 securing bolts for the power steering 'cooling loop' at bottom of radiator.
Unbolt the A.C radiator and fold it out of the way (if your car has A.C)
And last but not least there are a 3 torx bolts ( 2 on drivers side, one on passengers side) at the side of the front panel.

The panel should now come away complete...and give unprecedented access like the above pictures. The only other special tools needed are a torx bit set (3/8 drive is my preference), as there are various fastners which are torx. Just take your time and all will be well

To 59ctd :
My car is a UK spec 2003 Passat 130 P.D Sport. I'm not sure if you have the Sport model in the States? It has the 6 Speed manual close ratio gearbox, 15mm lowered/stiffer Ebaich springs, uprated Sachs dampers, 16" Road America wheels and sports seats. It also has the usual stuff like climate control, Leather 3 spoke steering wheel, auto rain wipers, auto rear view dimming mirror etc etc. All this is factory stuff.

Whats not factory stuff is the remap i did last week to around 170bhp...sweet

Hope that helps

Stick

P.s remember to use the correct VW G12 antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor...2 litres should do.

The B5's front end comes off very easily. Stick shifts are easier since you do not have to mess with the ATF cooler lines, but even then it is still not hard at all. In fact, I think these are easier than the transverse-mounted cars, despite what it looks like (as well as being 1 hour more book time).

It takes 20 to 30 minutes to get the front end off, then the actual engine work is a complete cakewalk with everything right out in the open, just like the engine was on a stand! This goes for all the B5's engines, 4 and 6 cylinder, gas or diesel.

Stickshifter! thanks for that, very informative and appreciated. Also thanks for posting the photos. This is what is so great about these forums in the sharing of knowledge. You can't beat real world experience backed up with details. Thanks much for your time and effort on helping your fellow TDi-er's out.
Now if the states could get the same options available to us as you have on yours, we would be "sitting pretty".

Your most welcome, glad i could help.


Stick