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Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) The place of handling, lighting and other upgrades that do not relate to the performance or economy of the TDI engine. In other words upgrades to your TDI that don't fit into TDI Fuel Economy & TDI Engine Enhancements.Please note the Performance Disclaimer

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Old July 28th, 2018, 09:33   #46
Cuzoe
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I would be lying if I said it wasn't completely for looks. The only action my brakes see is when one of the numerous magnificent Los Angeles drivers pulls out or abruptly changes lanes in front of me. As far as stock brakes (relative to the performance level of the vehicle) are concerned these might be the best I've ever had.

But man do they look inadequate inside Neuspeed RSE05s... don't even glance at the rears, can barely see them when I don't have my glasses on, haha.

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Old September 11th, 2018, 16:07   #47
Cuzoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adjat84th View Post
...The offset IS different (78mm vs 80mm), but it sounds like they take off enough for the widest offset and if you have less, you just use a spacer or two to get the caliper centered over the rotor...
Update on my Rotorlabs kit after attempted install today. Your theory was right on the money.

To begin with I am in no way talking down about Rob and/or Rotorlabs. This just comes with the territory of being the first (to my knowledge) to try one of his kits on stock Mk7 Golf TDI steel knuckles. Unfortunately, I need a little more taken off the mounting tabs on my 17z kit. As adjat84th theorized, taking off "too much" can be fixed with appropriately sized spacers but too little taken off means they won't bolt up.

The passenger side fit although the rotor is just slightly off center (not enough to matter in all likelihood, maybe 1mm). We were not able to bolt the driver side on. The mounting tab is too thick. From our measurements we need about 2.5mm machined down. As they are, the outboard "nubs" make contact with the rotor before it can be bolted down flush with the knuckle.

Although the shop has some equipment they are not a machine shop so we opted not to try and mill it down ourselves. I have already reached out to Rob at Rotorlabs and will make arrangements to have them milled down a little more.

Pictures to be added from my phone using Tapatalk, it's easier there, haha.

Both pictures are looking forward at the bottom of the passenger caliper. It fits but the outboard knobs are slightly closer than the inboard. The remedy for this is to mill more off the mounting tabs. On the driver side (not pictured) the outboard knobs contact the rotor before the caliper is bolted flush to the knuckle. Milling of the mounting tabs effectively moves the caliper outboard. And as adjat84th stated, an appropriately-sized spacer can be added to bring me caliper inboard if a little too much is milled off.

Last edited by Cuzoe; September 11th, 2018 at 16:29. Reason: Pictures
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Old September 11th, 2018, 19:07   #48
Cuzoe
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Response to myself, after talking with Rob for a few minutes. He suggested a few things that can cause the issue we saw.

1) Damaged hub from hitting a pothole/curb or some type of accident. If it was significant it should show in strange pad wear but a minor problem may be hidden by floating calipers and now appears with fixed ones. Not likely my problem as I am the first owner and avoid or slow down for potholes. My wife has driven maybe 300 miles in 2 years and she's more paranoid about the car than I am.

2) Difference in hub (from side to side), possibly replacing a wheel bearing, axle, axle nut when doing some suspension work. Also not likely my issue, car was bought new and has had no work beyond a 10k service.

3) What I was calling "nubs" are the pad retention pins/slides could be uneven. This made perfect sense to my mechanic and I after thinking about what we observed. We measured the mounting tabs (right after I posted) and found they were within .5mm all around. This doesn't jive with needing a different amount milled from the driver and passenger side.

Soooo... per Rob's suggestion we looked at those pad retention pins, with the naked eye we couldn't really see any issues. But we put a flat edge across the top of them (the same as the rotor face would be) and it wasn't flush. We couldn't see this with the caliper mounted. The pins are not exactly the same length. Out of the 8 pins the biggest difference overerall is about 4mm, and both outboard on the driver side (that did not fit) were about 3mm longer than the outboard on the passenger side (that did fit).

The solution is to grind the offending pins down with a carbide wheel. Rob says we can probably grind 5-6mm without causing issues. It looks like even more could be taken off to us, especially since I have no intention of wearing the pads down to nothing (where they would need the full length of those pins), these pads are under $50 a set after all. We need at MOST 4mm on the longest pin for these to bolt up.

My shop is going to grind down the longest of the pins. In the mean time I need to order wheel spacers. I'm running Neuspeed RSE05s, 17x8 et45. Diameter wise the fit is perfect. The RSE05s have a BBK friendly spoke design, but not brakes this bag, haha. I think 5mm spacers will clear but I want them to be hub-centric. I want to keep my meaty tires too so fender screw mod is in my future if I have to go 8-10mm.
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Old September 11th, 2018, 19:12   #49
adjat84th
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Thanks for the update!
I recall Rob saying that those pins occasionally need grinding. Sounds like the calipers bolt right up perfectly if the pins are correct then?

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Old September 11th, 2018, 23:54   #50
Cuzoe
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Yes they certainly do. They look great behind the wheels too (while being held up). We could see that the spokes were going to hit the faces and didn't want to damage them. If I had spacers probably could have ground down those pins and finished the install today. Instead got the stock brakes put back on while I called Rob.

Rob sent a spare set of decals and touch-up paint with the kit too, I have no complaints. Just want to get them mounted. Ordered 8mm H&R hub centric spacers and longer bolts tonight.

Any suggestion on treating the rotor hubs? I hate how rusty they get, really stands out with open design black wheels.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 15:15   #51
adjat84th
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You running these brakes yet??
I know Rob is running behind due to personal issues, so mine are taking a bit longer.
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Old November 18th, 2018, 12:25   #52
Cuzoe
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Not yet sadly. Long story short is didn't have the hardware for spacers so couldn't get them mounted. Some time went by then the wife and I bought our first home. My car budget and car time has been redirected, and probably will be for the next couple months.

Short story long, per Rob's suggestion we took a carbide bit to the pad guide pins and took a couple mil off which lets them fit without any chance of contacting the rotors. Still needed 10mm spacers to clear the RSE05s. The shop had the spacers but only ball seat extended length lug bolts, the Neuspeeds are conical (running factory bolts currently).

The shop is almost 2 hours away. I wanted to let the H&Rs settle so I could decide if I want to keep them on before I went back so I could get everything done at once. Handling is a good bit better but with the Los Angeles roads it's too low for me (or I'm getting old, haha). The ride leaves something to be desired but that's understandable with stock dampers under shorter springs. The curve of my wheels/tires match the arches better at stock height, and I want to do side skirts and a front lip so stock springs are going back on unless I can find something that is stiffer but at the same height (MSS kit maybe, but $$$).

Then we bought a home, I got a promotion at work that for the time being means more hours, and my 10 year old furniture (which was fine in our apartment) doesn't really cut it in our new place so car money has gone that direction. And I decided to go back to school full-time. The car gets a weekly wash but that's about it lately. I don't see the brakes going on before January.

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