2000 vw new beetle dies coming to a stop

2000 VW New Beetle 1.9 TDI glow plug light blinks, check engine light and battery light comes on starts surging then dies when coming to a stop. Will start right back up but repeats when coming to a stop.

First thing in the morning when I start it the blue engine coolant light is on. Help just bought my TDI and I love it but it's frustrating me.

alternator pulley , battery cables , 109 relay , what is the code for the check engine light ?

I have yet to get the codes. I have noticed a high pitch wine like a bearing going out in the area of the alternator. What is a 109 relay and where is it located? I am new to the tdi club just bought my car last week.

1. You have an up hill battle. But start reading and lots of it. relay 109 is under the steering wheel dash area.
2. Alt pulley is my vote since you hear a whine. Note the alt pullet is special is it clutched.
3. Find a vag com/vcds tdi member near you. there is a 101 stickey that can assist in finding some one near you. Tempt them with beer that usually works.
4. read some more here.

Binding bearing somewhere will stop the engine when you come off throttle. Assume it's a manual transmission? This WILL strand you soon.

Okay so first want to thank Peter V as it was the alternator pulley that took care of the issue of dying as I came to a stop. I also replaced the 109 relay why I was it as well as a new serpentine belt. Starts back up fine charging system working fine. However after running for a few minutes the car dies after it chokes a couple times. Then the glow plug light comes on flashing as well as the check engine light. Starts back up and drive down the road fine however you can feel a little bit of hesitation. Here are the codes that was pulled from AutoZone before I changed the alternator P1354, P 1562, P 1563. What do I do next? Thanks for all the replies prior to this post appreciate it now at least I'm back on the road

I forgot to mention that when you first start it the coolant temperature light stays on until the engine warms

Silver fox 2000 said:

First thing in the morning when I start it the blue engine coolant light is on.

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Silver fox 2000 said:

I forgot to mention that when you first start it the coolant temperature light stays on until the engine warms

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I'm not familiar with a blue engine coolant light.
Can you look at this diagram and confirm it's the coolant light?

It is normally red, although I suppose your car could have some modification? If that is lit when you first turn on the car, but goes out when it's warmed up then it will mean one of several things but start with the simple first.
Coolant level is probably just a touch too low. When the car warms up and and coolant expands a bit then the level rises. Try adding a little bit. Also worth noting that the coolant in your car should be pink in color. If it's green (or worse yet brown) that means someone mixed in an improper type of coolant. The proper coolant for your car will be called 'G12', although you may see some called 'G12++'. It will typically need to be mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

Silver fox 2000 said:

However after running for a few minutes the car dies after it chokes a couple times. Then the glow plug light comes on flashing as well as the check engine light. Starts back up and drive down the road fine however you can feel a little bit of hesitation. Here are the codes that was pulled from AutoZone before I changed the alternator P1354, P 1562, P 1563. What do I do next? Thanks for all the replies prior to this post appreciate it now at least I'm back on the road

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Those are all trouble codes monitoring the injection pump.
17970/P1562/005474 - Quantity Adjuster (N146): Upper Limit Reached

17971/P1563/005475 - Quantity Adjuster (N146): Lower Limit Reached

17762/P1354 - Modulating Piston Movement Sensor (G149): Electrical Malfunction

Could be a wiring problem to the pump, could be an adjustment issue, or the pump could be bad.
Best advice would be to try to find a trusted mechanic from the list in the TDI101 sticky to take a look at it. You don't want to start just throwing parts at those sorts of codes because it will get expensive very fast.
So you definitely want to be sure that it's diagnosed correctly.


http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=130044

CopaMundial, you think (and type) faster than I do!

I'll add one more observation: the quantity adjuster and modulating piston sensor are on the same electrical harness connector. Try unplugging, cleaning, and reconnecting?

Ok so where is the quantity adjuster and modulating piston sensor located? The book says that when the coolant light is blue it indicates engine is cool and not to run it hard until it goes off. The light generally goes off in less than 5 minutes.

Silver fox 2000 said:

Ok so where is the quantity adjuster and modulating piston sensor located?

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They are inside the Injection Pump (item #11 in this photo).
It's possible to open up the injection pump, but that is a pretty high level of difficulty / risk, so it's not advised unless you're well aware of what you're getting into. Just opening it up to replace seals and gaskets is a somewhat daunting task. Adjusting or fixing stuff inside of it is beyond the typical DIY job.

On the front of the pump (side facing the front of the car) there is an electrical cable. You can follow that looking for any obvious signs of damage. Down and towards the center of the engine bay there will be a plug-in connector where that cable joins another. Make sure that is firmly seated and not damaged.

You just need to replace the pump. That's a $600 part you can't change.

Okay so I think I may be on to something here. So here is what I have discovered, when I first start the engine in the morning or anytime after the engine cools the blue coolant temp light is on. The light is on for approximately 3 minutes while the light is on the engine hesitates and spudders but as long as I put it in gear and take off it will not die. So after the light goes off the car runs perfect and the flashing glow plug and check engine light goes off. So yours thoughts are welcome.

try unplugging the coolant sensor and see what happens

Diesel is a fabulous fuel but it has its quirks. It is very temperature dependent and the engine relies on sensors to set operating points. Unplugging the temp sensor is a good start because the ECU will use a default value in its place.

Better yet, there have been many recalls on these so just replace on general principal. You probably need to do a coolant flush to get that new G12 in there (get it at the dealer or online). Perfect time to replace that sensor.

There is one other sensor pertaining to fuel temp that is very important and can be replaced by a weekend wrench warrior. It is inside the top of the injection pump. Previous picture #11, the arrow is pointing right at the cap you would need to remove. Cleanliness is VERY important. Clean the pump with brake cleaner before opening the cap. remove only the bolts needed to get the cap off (others will need special tools anyway). For a picture (and to buy) go to Idparts and search Fuel Temperature Sensor. No dirty hands either. Wear new nitrile gloves. The procedure should be written up somewhere in the forms.

Fuel sensor should be about $20. Water $15-30. Cheap insurance and it gets you to a point where you can trust other diagnosis.

Thanks for the direction my fellow diesel folks. Much appreciated sounds like a good cheap move. Will replacing the fuel sensor require me to purge the fuel system or anything along them lines?

Today, 11:35 AM #16
Silver fox 2000
Newbie

Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Ohio
TDI(s): New Beetle 2.0

Thanks for the direction my fellow diesel folks. Much appreciated sounds like a good cheap move. Will replacing the fuel sensor require me to purge the fuel system or anything along them lines?

Coolant temp sensor NOT fuel sensor.

After 100k the fuel temp sensor is a good maint item especially if you have fuel related symptoms. Start with the coolant first. Still have issues then try the fuel temp. There will be fuel in the pump when you change it hence the reason to stay dirt free. No need to empty.

My coolant light ( blue ) stays on a while after startup like yours is doing

While it used to bother me, it doesn't anymore as my cooling system is ok
especially after new water pump, therm, etc.

I wonder if my light is supposed to stay on a while so I know it works ??

Planning on adding a gauge so I can more clearly see coolant temp ranges

Silver fox had it when he said the owners manual says that the light will be blue when the coolant is cold. It's the way the car is designed.

whitedog said:

Silver fox had it when he said the owners manual says that the light will be blue when the coolant is cold. It's the way the car is designed.

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Blue=cold, red=hot, seems logical, it is probably so that one knows when it is warm enough to put a load on it...Captain obvious

So coolant temp sensor turns off "blue" light ????

I just thought my float was sticking, doesn't make sense to me,
'Course a car without a temp gauge seems ludicrous to me as well !!

As for engine temp, I always thought oil temp was more important,
never worried about low revs at start up except maybe in winter

fuel temp sensor in the pump controls one of the fuel map positions along with rpm, throttle and MAF. If sensors fall outside their expected parameters the ECU makes up values based on other sensors like water temp and infers fuel temp. If this keeps up you get a CEL but the car continues to run and not make you stranded. This is also what makes it difficult to diagnose issues with a good tool like vag-com.

If the FTS is out of spec it will code. It is EXTREMELY RARE. The last time I replaced one of these was about 7 years ago when there was a local BioD coop and they sold some sketchy fuel.

jasonTDI said:

If the FTS is out of spec it will code. It is EXTREMELY RARE. The last time I replaced one of these was about 7 years ago when there was a local BioD coop and they sold some sketchy fuel.

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Silver Fox, since you are fairly new here, there are two people that would know if the FTS was failure prone and those people are Oilhammer and Jason here. They work on more TDIs than anyone here and they would see it.

The blue coolant temp light stays on until the coolant temp reaches 135 F on a NB.

Can a bad EGR valve with carbon buildup cause a no starting situation?

Is there a way to check the fuel pump to see if it's bad without any special tools?

What about MAF sensors? I hear a lot about these but don't know what issues they are with? Sorry I know I am all over the place but my car is now broke down. It will start and idles really ruff until you put it in gear. Then it seems to be okay off and on. Sometimes it will run and sometimes it won't. When it don't it spudders, shakes and runs ruff then dies. When it does start black smoke pours out until the idle calms.