P0101 code

osesu96

Veteran Member
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
Mooresville, NC
TDI
2004 Jetta GLS TDI - Platinum Gray
So check the charge air system, specifically the o-rings at the snap-fit connectors. Depending on which engine it is, I can give more specific hints.
Hi @oilhammer ,

So I got a P0101 yesterday. Car still ran well though had a small bobble around 1200 rpm but cleared up above that RPM and idles normally. I have curated a few things to look at such as the o-ring snap-fit connectors and I'm going to pull the valve cover to look at the cam.

As it relates to your comment above, I have a BEW engine, what would be the first hints you would recommend? Note: Car has the "Collar Mod".

Thank you in advance for the suggestions.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Check the lower part of the intercooler for signs of oil leaks. A smoke machine works well to find these small boost leaks.
 

osesu96

Veteran Member
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
Mooresville, NC
TDI
2004 Jetta GLS TDI - Platinum Gray
Check the lower part of the intercooler for signs of oil leaks. A smoke machine works well to find these small boost leaks.
I found that the intake connection right behind the passenger side headlight was cock-eyed and I could see the metal connector. So removed the plastic intake, ensured the clip was installed correctly and pushed it back on (can't see any metal, etc). Took the car for a rip, pushed 21 psi boost and checked the connection when I returned home. Looks to be seated the same as when I left the house, so assuming that was the culprit.

Also, the "stumble" around 1200 RPMs is gone, so seems that loose connection was the root of it all. Here's to hoping no more CELs. :)
 
Joined
Oct 20, 2023
Location
K1V 0H8
TDI
2002 Jetta 1.9 ALH, 2004 Jetta 1.9 BEW
I found that the intake connection right behind the passenger side headlight was cock-eyed and I could see the metal connector. So removed the plastic intake, ensured the clip was installed correctly and pushed it back on (can't see any metal, etc). Took the car for a rip, pushed 21 psi boost and checked the connection when I returned home. Looks to be seated the same as when I left the house, so assuming that was the culprit.

Also, the "stumble" around 1200 RPMs is gone, so seems that loose connection was the root of it all. Here's to hoping no more CELs. :)
I had the exact same symptoms. Turned out to be a bad MAF I had lamba too rich as well
 

ducatipaso

Airhead Butcher
Joined
Nov 17, 2001
Location
norcal
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI
the @burpod tune deletes the MAF - it really isn't needed on an ALH (if that's what you have)

edit: nevermind, saw it's a BEW
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
the @burpod tune deletes the MAF - it really isn't needed on an ALH (if that's what you have)

edit: nevermind, saw it's a BEW
Can be deleted in bew too 🙂 although it might not be possible to delete it and also have readiness be set for strict emissions testing
 

MrCypherr

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Mk6 Wagon
Im curious about this, Since the MAF can be deleted in the ALH/BEW, Could it also be deleted in a CR?
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
Im curious about this, Since the MAF can be deleted in the ALH/BEW, Could it also be deleted in a CR?
it surely can, the only real question is if you can do it and also pass readiness. on the alh, it's easy to do that. but on edc16/17 i don't really know all the ins-outs of how readiness is calculated. i'm sure it could be done such that there are no CELs or fault codes, but readiness is different.
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
What would be the benefits of deleting the MAF? Or what would be the purpose per say?
well, i've written much discussion of this, it's intermingled elsewhere. but the short version is, once egr is deleted, there's no real need for the maf. the smoke limiter would then be the MAFs only purpose, and that can be done just as well, if not a little easier IMO to get right, with knowing only the boost pressure + intake air temps. so why not get rid of the finicky, expensive maf?
 

MrCypherr

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Mk6 Wagon
So realistically, a deleted CR doesnt need a MAF sensor. I've always wondered if I could get rid of it and get rid a part that could cause issues and not worry.
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
So realistically, a deleted CR doesnt need a MAF sensor. I've always wondered if I could get rid of it and get rid a part that could cause issues and not worry.
MAF is fully deleted in wifes BEW (as well as smart actuator, egr, asv, and intake runner flaps). no CELs, runs mint. the way i did it though, it likely wouldn't pass "readiness" (for whatever reason), but thats a non-issue for me. i can't imagine this couldn't be done in the CR as well. the problem would be doing it in such a way it passed readiness, assuming most people need to pass the OBD checks for these "new" cars...
 
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