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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old March 12th, 2018, 23:45   #16
UhOh
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^^^ I concur.
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Old March 13th, 2018, 17:42   #17
optimism
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I don't *think* I have an air leak, because we just replaced all of the vacuum hose and leak checked the larger hoses.

Maybe I do, maybe I don't. We put the timing back where it was plus just a skosh, and it is starting more reliably than it has since we revived it from the dead.

I was reading and the low power operation seems to me to match what people identify as the reason to execute the hammer mod, but I'm not touching the engine again until the VCDS arrives.

Last night we did replace the ugly, billowy, ****ty headliner though, so that makes me pretty happy. We replaced it with a tapestry that compliments the exterior paint color (which is dark blue).
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Old March 13th, 2018, 19:59   #18
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I was thinking the hammer mod (adjusting the fuel injection quantity) might help your starting, but I didn't mention it because you need to get the VCDS first, set your timing, and THEN adjust the injection quantity..

My experience with the injection quantity is that it affects ease of starting and smoke more than power. If there's not enough fuel, it's hard to start in cold weather. If there's too much, it smokes.

The hammer mod requires loosening a bolt with a triangular security head. Some people pound a regular socket on the bolt head, but the right way to do that is to buy the MetalNerd MN3001 special socket for it. You can get it HERE or HERE for $23 + shipping.
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1998 Jetta TDi: Luk clutch, K04/K03 hybrid turbo, balanced Bosio DLC1019 stage1 nozzles, Kerma chip, braided turbo oil feed line, Frost Heater
2003 Jetta TDi wagon: Luk clutch, VNT17. Bought 9/2014, still doing initial repairs.
2005 New Beetle GLS TDi: Kerma "Dog Collar", Frost Heater, Panzer Plate, Evo lift, Koni yellows

Last edited by shoebear; March 13th, 2018 at 20:02.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 04:34   #19
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Oh I don't know about that (IQ and power).....

My '03 is bone stock EXCEPT for a set of 1019s. With the IQ turned down (lower) to just above where slowdown shudder becomes a problem I can slip the (stock) clutch in 5th gear. Turned up a couple more points there's no difference at all in starting, but the difference in power is *very* noticeable "by butt-feel" *and* objectively in that it is no longer possible to slip the clutch.

Before I gave the car to my kid I turned the IQ up because she was a new driver at the time *and* I didn't feel like doing a clutch job a month later. If and when the clutch fails anyway (it has yet to do so) I will stick a Luk RepSet in the car and turn it back to where it was, since the Luk has more holding power than the stock Sachs.....
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Old March 14th, 2018, 06:12   #20
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It was my understanding that IQ sets/shifts the base fueling point(s). I haven't noticed it doing a lot vis a vis overall FE, though one isn't generally running at the points in which heavier fueling is taking place anyway. Power, though, certainly is affected; my butt dyno also tells me this.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 09:14   #21
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Normally it wouldn't affect power, unless it's way out. The ECU pretty much takes over thru the RPMs.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 17:00   #22
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It is unlikely that it slipped in that direction (opposite the load). If the bolts were not tight enough, the load of the pump would force the slip to be the other way (these pumps take up to 5 horsepower to turn them at full load).
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Old March 14th, 2018, 17:40   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by optimism View Post
Ok, new thread for new problems.
2002 VW Bug TDI (automatic) now starts and runs reliably. BUT
Now I have white smoke when the car starts. I am pretty sure it's misfiring on one cylinder. I think I need to clean or replace my fuel injectors. I thought originally that the white smoke was coolant, but I have done all of the checks I can find and the smoke doesn't smell sweet so I don't think it's head gasket problems.
I've been running the fuel-additive injector cleaner in every tank of diesel I get, but I am not seeing much difference and as far as I know they have never been cleaned or replaced, I have 162k miles on it at this point and I know I have carbon build up problems elsewhere (from cleaning out the EGR, planning on cleaning turbo, and intake/exhaust manifolds soon as well).
Anyway, I started reading related threads on here and apparently injector cleaning isn't a DIY for most people and I am definitely just most people when it comes to working on my TDI. So? Ship them to Frank or buy new? If new, what ones?

Also, I just got this picture of the...thing I would use to adjust timing if I had the VCDS...It is an exploratory mission at this point. Anyway, it looks like it has slipped. Is this a thing? Is my timing possibly off (timing belt itself is fine/has all of its teeth)?

IF your hub is installed correctly on the pump shaft (and they are from the factory, or from a skilled diesel fuel injection technician using the proper tools and specs), you should be able to get the timing pretty close by just adjusting the sprocket so that at TDC of the crank your alignment pin goes in. Most of the time that is good enough, unless the internals of your pump have worn significantly (drive shaft tang, x coupling, cam plate wear, and even plunger shim wear all lead to "late" timing). The ONLY reason that the injection timing should have to be altered from the pin setting is to make up for pump wear. When I rebuild (or even just reseal) these pumps I always re-index the hub so that it is back to specs, which means that you should not have to tweak the timing.

When the hub is installed to the correct lift spec of the plunger (and nothing else is worn out in the pump), and you install it using the alignment pin at exact TDC, this sets the base timing. This is where the timing stays during engine start up (the ECU CAN NEVER retard the timing later than this point - it can only advance it, but even then, the ECU CANNOT advance the timing during engine start up. This is because the timing advance piston in the pump is hydraulically actuated with pump housing pressure and at cranking speeds there is simply not enough pressure to move the piston (no matter what the ECU commands). My point with all that is that when your base timing IS correct (.85 mm plunger lift at TDC, which is what you get with the pin inserted on a pump with the hub indexed correctly) the ECU takes over from there and can do its thing. When the ECU senses it that it can't do its thing (using input from the crank sensor and #3 needle lift sensor) a correction is required (using software to see what the ECU "thinks the timing is" and adjust accordingly. Again, on a pump with the hub indexed back to new specs you should not have to deviate from that setting.

IF your pump had to be advanced as far as it looks like it may have been from the pinned position, you have some drastic wear in the pump, or the hub slipped on the driveshaft (it isn't keyed), and even if the adjustment was able to go far enough to get it into range that the ECU can work with, you are starting to get out of the range for the hydraulics of the pumping element (discharge ports of the rotor and head have to be rotational aligned at the lift spec for full fuel discharge to be accomplished before the plunger has past that port (and goes on to the port for the next cylinder).

As far as cleaning the injectors, you are correct, it takes special equipment. Most of the injectors sets that I test will have a couple of holes clogged with carbon, which is very difficult to clean. First, you must take the nozzle off of the injectors and keep them straight so that each nozzle goes back on its original injector. Also YOU MUST keep the nozzle needle with its corresponding nozzle body throughout the cleaning process (these parts are mated). The best (and only industry accepted method) is to use an ultrasonic cleaner and a cleaning agent that is effective on carbon (most HD degreasers work). After running in the ultrasonic cleaner for half and hour I reassemble them and test again, if any holes are still clogged, do it again. I have had to run some for 1 1/2 hours to get all of the holes clean.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 19:40   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoebear View Post
I was thinking the hammer mod (adjusting the fuel injection quantity) might help your starting, but I didn't mention it because you need to get the VCDS first, set your timing, and THEN adjust the injection quantity..

My experience with the injection quantity is that it affects ease of starting and smoke more than power. If there's not enough fuel, it's hard to start in cold weather. If there's too much, it smokes.

The hammer mod requires loosening a bolt with a triangular security head. Some people pound a regular socket on the bolt head, but the right way to do that is to buy the MetalNerd MN3001 special socket for it. You can get it HERE or HERE for $23 + shipping.
I think one of the issues I have been having is that I have interpreted things that seem related to me as all being part of a single problem, when that now appears unlikely.

I have a problem that looks like it can be addressed with the hammer mod - my startup has a problem. The problem involves smoke, and the tachometer jumping around between about 900 and 1k rpm in idle with puffs of white smoke, with continued jerking like that only at a bit higher rpms in drive, which continues until it is "warmed up." It also just kind of rattles when I slow down to stop, even after it's warmed up but worse when it's not. All of those jerking things have some white smoke associated.

If starting has executed successfully and I get it driving (18 miles each way to and from work) it either:

a) very occasionally drives perfectly smooth with the tachometer showing 1900-2100k through all of the driving at all of the speeds, and shifting (up or down) exactly when you expect it to/feel like is should, and this also features very quiet engine running, a quiet purr sort of a thing like its supposed to, and approximately the amount of power/acceleration/handling that this vehicle is capable of under normal running circumstances or

b) is some some combination of underpowered (from slightly annoying to somewhat distressing) and loud (growling like an old dodge ram diesel engine), usually accompanied by check engine lights. Typically this sort of running is proceeded by difficulty getting it to start (it will crank but won't turnover, or it will turnover briefly and then die, repeatedly until it starts on somewhere between the 3rd and 6th attempt).

So I thought all of my symptoms were one thing, but probably it's a bunch of stuff because the previous owner didn't know anything about engines, but had a VW shop that he trusted that he had do all of his stuff. By didn't know anything, I mean that I have receipts and one of the first one says "CUSTOMER STATES THICK GREASE LEAKING FROM REAR OF VEHICLE" followed by "FOUND CUSTOMER HAD SPILLED OIL IN TRUNK CAUSING IT TO LEAK DOWN AND OUT OF THE SPARE TIRE COMPARTMENT"

They were nice and didn't charge him for that little bit of diagnostic.
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Old March 14th, 2018, 20:12   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldrive View Post
It is unlikely that it slipped in that direction (opposite the load). If the bolts were not tight enough, the load of the pump would force the slip to be the other way (these pumps take up to 5 horsepower to turn them at full load).
I'm quoting your first post to save space but hopefully get your attention. I'm working through your longer post but portions of it are out of my depth so I'm still chewing on it.

New info I found tonight:

At 123,792 miles (April of 2012):
replaced a/c compressor
service a/c system, check for leaks and proper operation
relace control arm bushings
replace left inner cv joint boot

At 128,180 miles (October of 2012)
replace diesel injection pump
replace diesel fuel filter
replace timing belt, rollers, tensioner, and serpentine belt
replace water pump (with timing belt) NOTE! DELETE INCORRECT PUMPS
replace dip stick tube

Those two visits combined: $4351

I paid: $3200ish, I think, for the car, that was in October of 2014. The milage on the title is exempt, so I don't know

It died in January of 2016, and sat dead until January of 2018. It now has 162k miles on it. As a part of or since reviving it:

-replaced fuel filter and fuel pickup/sender unit
-replaced cabin and engine air filters
-replaced oil filter
-replaced all vacuum hoses (per instructions found on tdiclub.com forum)
ordered a break boost pipe assembly (currently have a functional interrem assembly that has a new valve that isn't exactly the right valve because we broke the plastic nipple-deal that comes out at a 90 from the check valve while replacing the vacuum tubes...it's a little sketch but it's holding)
-replaced starter motor
-new battery
-cleaned EGR valve from caked to shiny (didn't break anti-shudder valve arm thing)
-did turbo exhaust side only Seafoam cleaning as described by several people on tdiclub forums, verified free movement of vanes and used a vacuum tool to check turbo actuator movement
-have run a bunch of fuel cleaner and injector cleaner through as full-tank additives
-replaced MAF
-messed with the timing as described in this thread.
-replaced sagging, billowing headliner (I know this doesn't matter, but I hated that and now I am happy).

Current Status: Starting easily every time, even though it was very cold this morning (22 degrees...I was worried). Not as much tach jumping at idle/low rpms...but very jerky and noisy low-speed operation, with white smoke puffing (parking lot speeds, reverse is louder than drive).

Also current status: VCDS arrived today (WOOT!!!)
Current Status Caveat: all of our laptops are Macs....Windows laptop for use with VCDS arrives Monday. (BOOOOOOOO).

What are all of the things I should check first once I can actually hook up my VCDS? If I can borrow a windows laptop before monday, should I do this, or is there limits to how many machines I can install the VCDS software on? Or does it only care about the number of VIN's it works for (I got the one that does 3, I only have one VW)?
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Old March 15th, 2018, 03:09   #26
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Wondering why the IP was replaced at only 129k miles. That's a pretty young age for replacement (most IPs can readily go 300k and beyond).

You can use your Mac, install Windows as a separate bootable partition or to run in a virtual machine: https://kb.iu.edu/d/ahjj I have a dual boot machine for VCDS (though I have the wireless version [very pricey] I don't like that interface so I suck up my pride and run the Windows software under Windows on from my PC that primarily boots Linux).

VCDS licensing is based on number of VINs (if limited- I opted non-limited early on [only two cars are the time] and now I have FIVE TDIs in the family, so it was a good call for me to have made that decision). Software can be installed on as many machines are you care to install it on.

What to check? Timing and Group 013 (injector deviation) will go a LONG way in helping assess things. If Group 013 looks suspicious then a compression test might be a good recommendation. But, DATA GATHERING FIRST! (more intense logging, such as recommended by Malone Tuning is best as it'll give a pretty comprehensive look- but, this is stressful testing, any significant mechanical issues might exhibit themselves in costly ways [first and foremost is to make sure there's no pooled oil in the intercooler plumbing].)
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Old March 15th, 2018, 06:48   #27
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I can upload the service report/receipt if it might help. The "Customer Stated" portion was that it smelled like gas [sic] outside the door, and then inside the car with the door closed. Previous owner wouldn't have had any idea whether he needed a new IP or not...

We drilled a hole in the low point of the intercooler housing/tubing, so I can check for/drain oil by removing a single screw (that plugs said hole).

After about a month of daily driving, there was 5 mL of oil in the intercooler plumbing.

Thanks for the info on the VCDS software, looks like we can probably start data gathering today based on what you told me. Thanks!
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Old March 15th, 2018, 12:34   #28
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The why won't help much, I'm sure it was cause of the fuel smell, must have had leaks.
Important that it was replaced with a proper part, there is some junk being sold.
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Old March 15th, 2018, 23:57   #29
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Quote:
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The why won't help much, I'm sure it was cause of the fuel smell, must have had leaks.
Important that it was replaced with a proper part, there is some junk being sold.
It's looking like the shop messed up the static timing. IF they can screw that up they could readily screw up the diagnosis.

WHY matters. It's quite possible that the original problem is NOT addressed: so there's a note about fuel smell- it's too easy to just climb on the IP R&R bandwagon because of it being done. But, yeah, unlikely going to get a straight answer, not from a shop that is unable to set static timing after installing an IP.

PO of my car took it into a shop that she'd been taking it to for (at least) 7 years. Complained of: "rear shock noise." Shop noted that they found the shocks to be OK. I got the car; totally crapped out rear axle bushings. In this case both the customer and the shop were right, yet, the problem remained...
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