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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old April 12th, 2017, 04:45   #46
Rembrant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UhOh View Post
Nice catch, Rem!

Yup, timing got screwed up. And if OP didn't do it then the IP is likely crapped (never did hear, even with the paperwork, where it came from).
There were also some comments earlier in this thread about fault codes related to the Injection Pump. I didn't see any updates on that issue. Now, the timing is out of wack...or the pump head is...or both things are.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 11:55   #47
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Sorry for the delay in response. I removed the timing cover to attempt to adjust the injection timing with a VAGCOM. I didn't adjust anything because I couldn't get the car to fire back up after the last attempt of bleeding the air out.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 11:56   #48
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Originally Posted by Rembrant View Post
Wait a second...
What exactly did you do when you removed the belt cover? What did you adjust?
You would remove the belt cover to adjust the injection timing, but not to adjust the IQ.

I'm obviously using the wrong terminology in that statement.
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Old April 19th, 2017, 15:48   #49
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The injection timing was never touched. I was hoping to get some solid help from the forum. I guess when these cars have issues like this there bound for the scrap yard. Anyway timing belt is fine. Fuel pump seems to be fine. it shoots fuel out of the cracked injectors.

Any other suggestions?
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Old April 20th, 2017, 12:17   #50
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Did you try the "fuel in a bottle" trick? My first thought was that there is a pin hole in the line inside the tank. Did your sensor replacement include the whole unit or just a sensor/rheostat?

Where in FL are you located?
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Old April 20th, 2017, 12:54   #51
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Did you try the "fuel in a bottle" trick? My first thought was that there is a pin hole in the line inside the tank. Did your sensor replacement include the whole unit or just a sensor/rheostat?

Where in FL are you located?
I did try the "fuel in a bottle trick" No start. I replaced the whole unit in the tank.
It looks like the send line on the tank sending unit was jerry rigged with a piece of hose and a clamp.

Im located in Sebring
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Old April 20th, 2017, 17:05   #52
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OK, that pretty much narrows it down. Remembering the basics: Air & fuel, compression, ignition & ability to exhaust.

Have you checked to see if the anti-shudder valve is open? I've never heard of it sticking shut but it's an easy check.

I know you've said that there is fuel coming out of the lines when you crank it but I'd confirm that the fuel shut off solenoid is opening and staying open. It's in the IP but I don't have the info to test it at hand (on vac in Lakeland). If you can, like mentioned above, hot wire it from the battery to bypass any possible programming issue or other fun Volkswagen circuitry.

The last thing to check is timing which you could somewhat inspect without timing tools. Pop the timing covers off and rotate the crank until the fuel pump timing holes are lined up. Then check to see if the TDC mark on the flywheel is near the pointer on the bellhousing. (that's the important one) Next, pop the vacuum pump off the end of the head and check the alignment of the slot in the end of the camshaft, it should be parallel to the valve cover surface.

If the pump and crank are aligned, the cam probably is too.

This isn't precise but it should give an indication of the timing being off enough to keep it from starting.

None of this has any association to the 1/2 tank issue. It might be worth checking for recalls on your VIN. Those can be checked here: http://www.vw.com/owners/recalls/
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Old April 20th, 2017, 17:49   #53
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Do you have the timing belt tools? You need to verify the mechanical timing between the crank, cam and IP.
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Old April 21st, 2017, 05:03   #54
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I feel like with the mucking around that's been done theres a broken wire somewhere now around the IP, or disconnected something... its just too odd off circumstances
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Old April 21st, 2017, 05:19   #55
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Fuel cutoff solenoid? Apply 12 volts and see if you get a sharp click each time you jump it. Did not read whole thread, maybe you already tried that.
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Old April 28th, 2017, 12:03   #56
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Fuel cutoff solenoid? Apply 12 volts and see if you get a sharp click each time you jump it. Did not read whole thread, maybe you already tried that.
I tried 12 volts and I hear a click. I'll try to get to checking the timing. I agree with Steve6 I feel like the previous owner had issues that he didn't disclose .

I'll try messing with it again this weekend. Work puts me out of town a lot. I haven't had time to mess with it.
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Old April 28th, 2017, 12:18   #57
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Quote:
Have you checked to see if the anti-shudder valve is open? I've never heard of it sticking shut but it's an easy check.
Oh yes it does (stick closed)! A friend of mine with a TDI almost had a dealer come get her car over that one.....
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Old April 28th, 2017, 13:25   #58
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It won't be 100% accurate, but use VCDS and go to the "Timing Check". turn on VCDS, click on Basic Settings (IIRC) go to group 000, hit go, switch to "other mode"--I am sorry I can't remember right this second, click on Timing select proper vehicle >1995/ ALH/etc. and turn engine over. In theory you should see a yellow line on the screen at least in the bottom section. If the yellow line goes past the top too much advance, if there is no yellow line at all the timing is too retarded.
I have read through this post but it has been a couple of days.. what is your IQ set at? You should also be able to get a reading with the engine turning over and see what it says. There are so many knowledgeable people givings suggestions here I can hardly believe the solution hasn't been found yet.
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Old April 28th, 2017, 14:46   #59
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There are so many knowledgeable people givings suggestions here I can hardly believe the solution hasn't been found yet.
Solutions require properly understanding the problem. I think everyone's still working on this part!
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Old April 29th, 2017, 09:55   #60
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A couple of mentions of a stuck-closed ASV, but I don't think you said you eliminated it?

I just went through this with an increasingly frequent intermittent no-start. 20K mi. since an ASV/EGR cleaning and it was already starting to stick.
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