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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old April 10th, 2017, 20:20   #6376
Steve Addy
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That is pretty crazy to have the WP move like that, only ever saw the impeller move around on the shaft, not the shaft move in the pump. That's pretty good miles for an OE pump though, the WP on my 97 Mk3 went at 64k miles and again at around 125k miles, which I thought was pretty fast.

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Old April 12th, 2017, 04:07   #6377
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I definitely can't complain about the longevity; unsure how long a thermostat can last, but that was also OE.

The impeler/shaft could not be pushed back into position, by hand. Turning the shaft was pretty tight... almost had a plastic feeling. I'm guessing these are just some type of bushing? I can't see there being any bearing in them.

Anyhow, I didn't get too far with the repair. After cleaning the pump housing in the parts washer, and mating the halves, I realized I ordered the wrong thermostat.... need a Stant 45379.

-Todd
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Old April 14th, 2017, 08:55   #6378
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Fabricator sent me some photos to show how my intercooler install is going...





A little bit sad that we had to remove the stock airbox. There wasn't any way to route the pipe work with the turbo as low as it is. I'll live with the cone filter for now but I might see if I can find a Donaldson style airbox that'll fit.



Exhaust looks about like you'd expect. The downpipe and resonator are left over from my Jetta.

I should get the car back early next week...

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Old April 14th, 2017, 09:10   #6379
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That looks nice.

I visited my Passat at the body shop today. As usual, rust damage is always more than it appears.


Apparently this car was hit here at some point in its life and the inner fender is pretty much shot. Looking for one.

No comments on the brake, please. I know.
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Old April 14th, 2017, 15:15   #6380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndigoBlueWagon View Post
That looks nice.

I visited my Passat at the body shop today. As usual, rust damage is always more than it appears.


Apparently this car was hit here at some point in its life and the inner fender is pretty much shot. Looking for one.

No comments on the brake, please. I know.
My rule of thumb has always been that the rust you can see is probably 10% of what's actually there.

Sorry to hear that you have to find a replacement for the inner, parts for these things are getting slimmer by the day.

Steve
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Old April 14th, 2017, 17:48   #6381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanbcguy View Post
Fabricator sent me some photos to show how my intercooler install is going...

You don't need AC in your area or are just going to sweat? When I bought my wagon back in 2011, I basically bought AC.

-Todd
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Old April 15th, 2017, 11:13   #6382
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Quote:
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You don't need AC in your area or are just going to sweat? When I bought my wagon back in 2011, I basically bought AC.

-Todd
Car never had it - has the non-AC heater box, doesn't even have the knockouts punched out of the firewall for the refrigerant lines.

Here in Vancouver there's usually a few weeks a year where AC would be nice to have. I've actually only owned one car with AC throughout all the cars I've ever had - wasn't all that common here until around 2000.

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Old April 15th, 2017, 16:04   #6383
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I replace both my outside mirrors, the lens was all gacked up on the PS and the drivers side was held on with drywall screws.
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Old April 17th, 2017, 17:21   #6384
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I recently R&R'd the oil cooler gasket on my back up plan 1997 B4 sedan. I had performed this job on my DD years ago, but with advancing age and increased beer consumption, I couldn't recollect anything relevant. So, I searched the www and found this YouTube video which provided good content on how to do this job:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fEpW1xpSHw

I purchased the HDX Internal Pipe Wrench Set at Home Depot for $11.97. With the 3/8" tool, turned by a 14 mm deep socket, I removed the treaded pipe from the engine block. This provided more range of movement for the oil cooler (to remove and install the new gasket) still tethered with two coolant lines. Parts on the workbench:




Here's a clip from Volume One of the Bentley Publishers Official Factory Repair Manual, panel D13-10 (maybe) showing the big picture:



I did notice that the thin (4 mm thick) hex nut which mounts directly to the bottom of the oil cooler and compresses the O ring gasket up against the engine block has two different sides. One side is machined with a flat surface:



And the opposite side is much less flat, even beveled:



During reassembly, I coated both the O ring and the top of the canister oil filter with petroleum jelly. I like the stickiness or tacky factor to help gaskets stay put. I also mounted the hex nut with the flat side up against the bottom of the oil cooler. I also followed the pictogram on the Mann oil filter:



..........and refrained from using the filter strap wrench; hand tight snug plus 3/4 turn. No leaks after filling with Mobile 1.

My DD was giving me thunks from the front end when turning even while parked. I had replaced everything (lower control arms, outer tie rod ends, ball joints and struts) a while ago. For whatever reason, I became convinced that my inner tie rod on my drivers side was bad. I took my DD to a local reputable tire/alignment shop. The diagnosis was that my driver's side outer tie rod end was toast. Long story short, the linkage on the left side was changed due to a seized jam nut, an alignment was done, and as I was paying the counter guy, he says that my noise is most likely coming from bad upper strut mounts.

Confirmed here in the forums:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=371448

Two upper strut mount kits are on order.

Lastly, I have had three different B4 TDI Passats that have each managed to have one of their side view mirrors simply fall off. Are you kidding me????

This just happened on my DD's driver door. I got my replacement from Amazon, very quickly. The made in USA replacement mirror product is a Burco 2592 (www.burcoinc.com). I avoid self-adhesive stickers. I use the 5 minute epoxy solution instead, shown here:





I know that my days (and their days) are numbered, but I will still try to keep the B4 TDI's on the road. Jeff
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Last edited by nh nam vet; April 17th, 2017 at 17:23. Reason: Spelling, also sorry for thumbnail at bottom.
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Old April 18th, 2017, 20:10   #6385
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Doing an early timing belt job. Thanks to the fluidampr I have to play tetris and lower the engine to get it off. Also, I have stainless steel bolts cause they deform enough to loosen after being torqued down. From a conversation with Matt Phelan, I think we have a new winner for a better timing belt. I'll post up in the respective thread a little later.
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Old April 20th, 2017, 19:23   #6386
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Went to check on my car yesterday - pretty happy with the IC setup. They still need to do some trimming to get the lower (only?) grille back in place but it's pretty much done.

Very happy with the exhaust setup. They kept the factory B3 tip and preserved the angle so it looks totally stock despite the whole system being 2.5" stainless to that point.

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Old April 21st, 2017, 03:52   #6387
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Yesterday I changed out the front strut mounts (357-412-331-A) on my DD. After opening the hood, I first removed the non-functional plastic strut cap (1H0-412-359). Since I don't have an air compressor or air tools, I used my reliable Milwaukee HD 1/2" drive impact gun fitted with a 7/8" (or 22 mm) socket to remove the M14x1.5 self-locking hex nut (N10535201). This exposes the strut stop (357-412-319-B)

Next, with the floor jack, I lifted up the car so that the strut began to fall down from the strut tower. I removed the strut stop by unscrewing it counter-clockwise off of the strut stud. I lifted the some more, got my hand in through the fender well over the mounted tire, but I still did not have enough clearance to manipulate the strut mount over the top of the strut stud to remove it. I used a second (bottle) jack under the frame rail under the radiator and was able to lift the body for additional clearance to remove the strut mount, shown here:



Notice that the strut bearing (1J0-412-249), is under the second hex nut. Under this is the front upper spring plate (1J0-412-341), under which contains the spring.

After the new strut mount is installed, first lower the bottle jack and then slowly lower the floor jack to get the strut mount centered in the strut tower. Shown NOT CENTERED here:



My DD got new front struts (Bilstein F4-V36-4058HD) first at 235K miles and then then the same Bilstein's again at 273K miles. These new strut mounts might just be a bandaid at 334K miles. Time will tell. Jeff
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Old April 21st, 2017, 04:37   #6388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nh nam vet View Post
My DD got new front struts (Bilstein F4-V36-4058HD) first at 235K miles and then then the same Bilstein's again at 273K miles. These new strut mounts might just be a bandaid at 334K miles. Time will tell. Jeff
You got less than 40k out of Bilstein HDs? I'd think there's something else wrong, causing the struts to wear prematurely... Bilstein HDs are usually awesome struts.
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Old April 23rd, 2017, 13:56   #6389
Bob S.
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I feel as though I am finally a B4 owner. Over the past 2 years, only very minor issues (driver's door latch, coolant elbow webpage (thanks Choochlyman for your product), blend door repair, oil cooler seal, etc.), then on Friday, the infamous no start with known good battery. Fortunately, I coast down hill & gear start it. Now to diagnose the cause: Alarm, starter or ignition. Again, I now feel like I belong. Thanks to those that have contributed to the knowledge base.
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Old April 23rd, 2017, 20:50   #6390
Steve Addy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nh nam vet View Post
Yesterday I changed out the front strut mounts (357-412-331-A) on my DD. After opening the hood, I first removed the non-functional plastic strut cap (1H0-412-359). Since I don't have an air compressor or air tools, I used my reliable Milwaukee HD 1/2" drive impact gun fitted with a 7/8" (or 22 mm) socket to remove the M14x1.5 self-locking hex nut (N10535201). This exposes the strut stop (357-412-319-B)

Next, with the floor jack, I lifted up the car so that the strut began to fall down from the strut tower. I removed the strut stop by unscrewing it counter-clockwise off of the strut stud. I lifted the some more, got my hand in through the fender well over the mounted tire, but I still did not have enough clearance to manipulate the strut mount over the top of the strut stud to remove it. I used a second (bottle) jack under the frame rail under the radiator and was able to lift the body for additional clearance to remove the strut mount, shown here:

Notice that the strut bearing (1J0-412-249), is under the second hex nut. Under this is the front upper spring plate (1J0-412-341), under which contains the spring.

After the new strut mount is installed, first lower the bottle jack and then slowly lower the floor jack to get the strut mount centered in the strut tower. Shown NOT CENTERED here:

My DD got new front struts (Bilstein F4-V36-4058HD) first at 235K miles and then then the same Bilstein's again at 273K miles. These new strut mounts might just be a bandaid at 334K miles. Time will tell. Jeff
Did you contact Bilstein about replacements or warranty? I think they're covered by warranty for life and they will rebuild them.

Steve
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