What a great brake rotor

fireofficer001 · Dec 3, 2013

Whats a great brake rotor

I drive fast and brake hard so I guess that heats them up and they warp. I pick up a set of up graded ones from id auto and they warp to and yes im hard on them, any info would be nice. I had a set of slotted ones on a different car and when i braked it sounded like grinding when i stop hard and I did not like that, thx

40X40 · Dec 3, 2013

fireofficer001 said:
I drive fast and brake hard so I guess that heats them up and they warp. I pick up a set of up graded ones from id auto and they warp to and yes im hard on them, any info would be nice. I had a set of slotted ones on a different car and when i braked it sounded like grinding when i stop hard and I did not like that, thx

Do you have a question?

Bill

japedo · Dec 3, 2013

As far as I'm concerned, you can't beat the quality of a brembo rotors.
They are worth the extra money in my opinion.

I ordered brembo rotors thru www.fcpeuro.com once for a Volvo.
They sell vw stuff as well.

fireofficer001 · Dec 3, 2013

slotted or drilled or stright

snakeye · Dec 3, 2013

Did you follow the bedding in procedure as indicated in your brake rotors and pads' instructions?

Are we talking front or rear brakes? When do they warp? How do you know they warp?

Seatman · Dec 3, 2013

Trw and bed them in properly, slotted grooved or whatever are just for show, any decent brand of regular discs is just as good but yeh, I like the trw's and I'm hard on them.

40X40 said:
Do you have a question?

Bill

Do you not speak gibberish? You can try google translate

fireofficer001 · Dec 3, 2013

Front brakes, and no brake in, and my steering wheel shakes only when i apply my brakes and the faster i go the harder the shake, And the front end tight and i have new tires,

Seatman · Dec 3, 2013

And the callipers are all free and clean?

You could try bedding them in now, might work. Take the car up to like 80-90mph and slam the brakes on hard till your down to say 20 or so then repeat and keep repeating till you can really smell the brakes then just take a gentle cruise to let them cool down again.

fireofficer001 · Dec 3, 2013

Yes like I said I drive very fast and brake hard, maybe i will go with rotors from china lol

Seatman · Dec 3, 2013

Yeh but for bedding in you have to do it over and over till the brakes get red hot. I used this method on mine and they're excellent, I can go from mental to sensible in a flash now, no wobble or vibrations or anything. Mine are the 288's and they're trw.

fireofficer001 · Dec 3, 2013

were did you buy them from and how much ?

ymz · Dec 3, 2013

Are you sure the problem isn't with your lower control arm bushings? That will cause a shake during braking as well...

Yuri

fireofficer001 · Dec 3, 2013

I will check that on thursday to make sure thx

pedroYUL · Dec 3, 2013

Check your lower control arm bushing:

http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=36_66&products_id=700

pedroYUL · Dec 3, 2013

Arrrrg Yuri beat me to it

Mike_04GolfTDI · Dec 3, 2013

Interesting. I think I may also need to replace my rear control arm bushings. After I replaced all four brakes last year, it wasn't long before I noticed an annoying shake while braking.

At first I figured it was warped rotors, but it doesn't really feel like warped rotors exactly. The shaking is not really consistent, and it seems like it doesn't happen much during light braking or hard braking.

It all makes sense now. During moderate braking, the control arms shake. During light braking, they don't. During hard braking they don't, because the strain on the control arms keeps them at the far extent of the looseness.

Now I just have to figure out how much of a PITA it is to change them...

Seatman · Dec 3, 2013

I've read this many times about the bushes but the lca's were sitting on the subframe of my car because the bushes were so shot but braking was super smooth still. When I took them out to swap they just fell apart because they were so bad.

snakeye · Dec 4, 2013

Seatman said:
Yeh but for bedding in you have to do it over and over till the brakes get red hot. I used this method on mine and they're excellent, I can go from mental to sensible in a flash now, no wobble or vibrations or anything. Mine are the 288's and they're trw.

Not sure if serious....

The way I bed in my TRW and Zimmermann combo is by braking very lightly until that gray layer wears off and the brakes stop stinking. Then I drive normally for a few hundred km, and allow the brakes to cool off if I happen to bake hard. After that anything goes. Haven't had a problem even though I beat the crap out of my car. The rear started warping once but that was due to a seized handbrake lever.

keaton85 · Dec 4, 2013

Rotors don't warp, and the proper bed in is 60mph down to 10mph repeated 10times, allow cooling and repeat. The harder, the better! No time to be gentle with new pads and rotors.

Seatman · Dec 4, 2013

snakeye said:
Not sure if serious....

The way I bed in my TRW and Zimmermann combo is by braking very lightly until that gray layer wears off and the brakes stop stinking. Then I drive normally for a few hundred km, and allow the brakes to cool off if I happen to bake hard. After that anything goes. Haven't had a problem even though I beat the crap out of my car. The rear started warping once but that was due to a seized handbrake lever.

Totally serious, I read up on it and gave it a go, never looked back since and always use that method now. It's to do with getting them hot enough for transferring material from the pads to the discs.

RacerTodd · Dec 4, 2013

I use Stoptech's bedding in procedure. Read about it here: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures

"Warped" rotors are mostly a myth with modern brake designs. Read Stoptech's technical paper here: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

snakeye · Dec 5, 2013

What's the point of braking hard from the get go instead of taking it easy for a while until there is nice and even contact between the pads and rotors? What's the rush? It's not like braking gently will create hot spots or warped rotors.

Vince Waldon · Dec 5, 2013

Nope, but not bedding them in leaves a lot of brake performance on the table, since you will forever be using metal against brake pad material, rather than brake pad material against brake pad material, which has much more grip.

Also if you do randomly brake hard every now and then you will have patches of brake pad material and patches of metal to brake against and you will think your rotors are warped.,.again.

Those are good links above...well worth a careful read.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Vince Waldon · Dec 5, 2013

My own personal approach is to be gentle for about 100 km to allow for the rotor coating to wear off and the pads to create even contact, and then find a lonely stretch of highway and bed 'em in. Instant and dramatic increase in performance.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

snakeye · Dec 5, 2013

Vince Waldon said:
Nope, but not bedding them in leaves a lot of brake performance on the table, since you will forever be using metal against brake pad material, rather than brake pad material against brake pad material, which has much more grip.

Also if you do randomly brake hard every now and then you will have patches of brake pad material and patches of metal to brake against and you will think your rotors are warped.,.again.

Those are good links above...well worth a careful read.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

What prevents a driver from braking hard and bedding in the brakes once they're not new anymore? Also what happens if I leave my car sit for a few weeks and rust forms on the rotors? If I brake and wear off the rust, what happens to the thin layer of pad that was or should have been on the rotors? No way to re-bed the brakes? I'm kind of skeptical about this whole bedding in procedure.

Vince Waldon · Dec 5, 2013

snakeye said:
What prevents a driver from <snip snip snip> bedding in the brakes once they're not new anymore?

Nothing... assuming the rotors and pads are in good shape you can bed them in whenever you want... and re-bed them if need be.

And... you don't have to bed them. The only effect is that you're leaving brake performance on the table... and maybe they work fine for you as is.

What *is* challanging to do is put an even coat of brake pad material on a rotor that has a patchy coat... ie was bedded in a hap-hazard fashion, was "bedded" accidentally during a panic stop that deposited a large amount of material where the pads and rotor rested for a while, etc. The diagnose of "warped rotor" is the usual outcome.

To be clear... just giving my perspective here... not trying to sell anyone anything. If you think it's a crock carry on.

keaton85 · Dec 5, 2013

realistically, it won't matter all that much to do a bed in procedure. I know that there is no way I would do that to all the vehicles that came through the shop for brakes!

Also, this does not apply to rears as it would be very hard to get them hot enough to do a bed in.

What the real issue is, at least in my area, is people that baby their brakes. If you are way to light on your brakes the pads develop areas that they don't hit the rotors. Either from rusty calipers, dry slides, and so forth. Rust builds up on these areas that don't receive constant contact which in turn causes that warped rotor feel.

Ive replaced more rotors due to granny driving then anything else. Ive also fixed a lot of "warped" rotors by just beating on them as hard as I can, which sometimes knocks down the rough or high spots.

Seatman · Dec 5, 2013

snakeye said:
What's the point of braking hard from the get go instead of taking it easy for a while until there is nice and even contact between the pads and rotors? What's the rush? It's not like braking gently will create hot spots or warped rotors.

I wasn't sure if it was worth it either but decided to give it a go and my brakes are fantastic. I would recommend trying it for yourself.

The main thing I've noticed is like going form 80-90 down to like 30mph in a hurry, I hit the brakes hard and I'm there, they just seem to bite harder when I really need them the most. The speed at which I slowed down the first time I tried it just blew me away!
No judder, no pull, no fade, nothing, just felt totally hassle free and instant.

Vince Waldon · Dec 5, 2013

Yup, they work fine if you don't bed them...super-fine if you do.

deejaaa · Dec 7, 2013

i think the problem is the right foot and a loose nut behind the wheel.

What a great brake rotor

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