Can I set my own toe-in/out?

I've got some alignment issues to sort out and was wondering if it's even possible for me to set the toe on a Mk 4 jetta with a 2" lift at home without an alignment rack.
I have an appointment later this month at an alignment shop but I just replaced a tie rod and would like to get it as close as possible.

Yeah there is a thread on here about that. The OP used a string and I believe measured the front wheel side to side them the aft portion of the front wheel side to side. They both should be equal, if not adjust the tie rod on the one you replaced so masurement is the same.
If not string then what ever implement do destruction that you can measure with somewhat accurately. Just my .02

This is what I thought. I used to do this with my old Landcruiser but the tires/wheels were so large that it was much easier.
So they need to be even then, I guess. Good enough.

That's my belief

Not even.

You want just a hair of toe in.

This is because as you drive, the tires experience a little bit of drag and the toe in will change to even as you are driving.

If you make it even, it will change to toe out as you drive which could lead to wandering.

I just recently did a "string alignment" after replacing the front control arm bushings, and one tie rod end. I also wanted to center the steering wheel.

I used 2 jackstands with a string stretched between them. The idea is to have the string parallel to the side of the car. Make the front wheel parallel to the string, then toe it in a bit (I toed mine in about 1/16" on either side, and it seems to work alright).

Also, the rear track width is about 0.7" narrower than the front. So the string needs to be about 0.35" further away from the rear wheel, to make the string parallel with the car.

Ah, the string trick. Should have thought of that. I do that for old motorcycles when the rear wheel needs to come off or the chain needs adjusted.

Rrusse11 said:

sisyphus,

This thread deals with the issue pretty thoroughly.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=483121

And here's a thought, rather than string, get a laser pointer.
Straighter and easier to set up, all the modern alignment
machines are using lasers for accuracy. Attach it to a small tripod for ez adjustment.

Click to expand...

Hey, why didn't you mention that in the thread? Lol. That's pretty clever actually - though alignment of the laser with the back tires may be difficult with a common laser pointer. Before my diesel addiction, one of my previous hobbies was lasers... I've spent a lot of money on some some high powered lasers and cheap ones alike and unless you're buying a quality lab laser, the beam will not leave the pointer perfectly perpendicular to its aperture. Also, you'd need to have a laser with a high quality lense if you plan to notice very subtle differences, as most lasers have a bit of "splash" around the spot; splash increases dramatically the closer you get to the spot, sometimes making it difficult to tell exactly where the spot begins.

Not knocking your idea - as you said it's what the professionals use. I'm just thinking that unless you have a "professional" quality laser, it may have another set of variables. Either way, I'd love to give it a shot - has anyone else tried it?

"Hey, why didn't you mention that in the thread? Lol. That's pretty clever actually - though alignment of the laser with the back tires may be difficult with a common laser pointer. Before my diesel addiction, one of my previous hobbies was lasers... I've spent a lot of money on some some high powered lasers and cheap ones alike and unless you're buying a quality lab laser, the beam will not leave the pointer perfectly perpendicular to its aperture. Also, you'd need to have a laser with a high quality lense if you plan to notice very subtle differences, as most lasers have a bit of "splash" around the spot; splash increases dramatically the closer you get to the spot, sometimes making it difficult to tell exactly where the spot begins.

Not knocking your idea - as you said it's what the professionals use. I'm just thinking that unless you have a "professional" quality laser, it may have another set of variables. Either way, I'd love to give it a shot - has anyone else tried it?" RobRou

Thanks for the kudos, but I just thought of it. Me, I take it to the pros for $60, they can get it down 10-20thou. Try and do that with a piece of string. Now if you take piano wire and a turnbuckle and some really solid mounts for aforesaid wire, a steady hand and some calipers, you might get close.

Just thinking that with a ruler and a 1/8" dot you could get down to a
1/16" without the problems of a flexible reference point. Laser levels have made construction/building layout a lot easier. I've used water levels and piano wire to setup for boatbuilding, but it would have been a lot easier with a laser.

With a good steel rule, setup an inch off the rear tire hub and then check the front. I assume front and back have the same track width?
Or find a 16' straightedge. Dunno', like I said, for the kind of precision required, and a one of setup, I take it to the shop.
For the OP, and somewhere out in the boondocks, might be worthwhile setting up something.

Rrusse11 said:

I assume front and back have the same track width?

Click to expand...

I guess you missed it, so here it is again:

Also, the rear track width is about 0.7" narrower than the front. So the string needs to be about 0.35" further away from the rear wheel, to make the string parallel with the car.

Click to expand...

Don't sweat it. Lasers are cool.

I'm a big proponent of doing what works best. So if a [Doctor Evil] "Lazer" [/Doctor Evil] gets the job done better than a string, then have at it!

And IIRC, the only alignment adjustment you can make on the rear suspension is the thrust angle.

Even the front suspension is rather simple to align. There is no caster adjustment. So you only have camber and toe. And the camber is a "set it and forget it" kind of thing.

Compared to my other car, alignment on the Jetta is a walk in the park.

Blacktree said:

I just recently did a "string alignment" after replacing the front control arm bushings, and one tie rod end. I also wanted to center the steering wheel.

I used 2 jackstands with a string stretched between them. The idea is to have the string parallel to the side of the car. Make the front wheel parallel to the string, then toe it in a bit (I toed mine in about 1/16" on either side, and it seems to work alright).

Also, the rear track width is about 0.7" narrower than the front. So the string needs to be about 0.35" further away from the rear wheel, to make the string parallel with the car.

Click to expand...

I did my own alignment like you mentioned but didn't account for the rear being narrower lol. I might have to re-do it

Also make sure your steering wheel stays straight when you're making your tie rod adjustments!

I jacked the car up and painted a line around the center of the tread area of the tire. I built a little tool to scratch a line in the paint as I turned the tire. I built another little tool that that reached form one side of the car to the other with adjustable pointers about 6 inches high that I lined up on the line on the rear of both tires. I tightened up the pointers and then moved the apparatus to see if it still lined up on the lines. It was only 1/32nd toed in so I left it alone.

So I've been back and forth side to side (since I can only do one side at a time anyway) and every time I look and the steering wheel would have turned while I was cursing my way under the car. So eventually I got a 5' long pipe clamp, rolled both windows down and stuck it through both and lashed the wheel to it.
I'm still afraid that after I'm done this time the wheel will cock to one side anyway as it's done the three times previous.
What do other people do to keep the wheel straight?

In order to set any alignment settings you need to have the car sitting on the ground and roll it at least one car length for everything to normalize, or have turnplates. If you set it wheels in the air or at any position other than the weight of the car compressing suspension, your toe will be off.

We have set toe hundreds of times with two people and a tape measure. Takes a little patience to set, then roll or drive the car, then check and repeat till done.

And if your wheel is off then turn one side out and the other side in the EXACT SAME AMOUNT. The alignment of the wheels will not change but the steering wheel centering will.

sisyphus said:

What do other people do to keep the wheel straight?

Click to expand...

Lock the steering wheel as close to center as possible. Then set the toe-in. Then you go through a trial-and-error process of adjusting both tie rods (the exact same amount) until the steering wheel is centered. So for example, if the steering wheel is off to the left, then both front wheels need to turn to the left. After each adjustment, it may help to go for a quick spin up and down the street, to check the steering wheel position.

I remember doing that trick on new car PDIs to center wheels that were off a little, just don't lose count or go the wrong way.

A quicky tape measure test after all is done is advised too.