Anti seize on spark plugs

I'm doing my first ever spark plug job tomorrow on my 2003 Jetta. I am confused as to whether or not I should use anti-seize, as I've read varying opinions.

The plugs are autolite platinum. I am currently thinking I don't need to use them as the platinum ones aren't as likely to seize as copper, but am not certain.

Can anyone verify if I'm right or if I need to use anti-seize?

llmercll said:

I'm doing my first ever spark plug job tomorrow on my 2003 Jetta. I am confused as to whether or not I should use anti-seize, as I've read varying opinions.
The plugs are autolite platinum. I am currently thinking I don't need to use them as the platinum ones aren't as likely to seize as copper, but am not certain.
Can anyone verify if I'm right or if I need to use anti-seize?

Click to expand...

On your TDI? Spark plugs?
Good one, don't forget to set the points after you file them.
What gap will you run on them plugs?
Cheers

If you’re doing spark plugs on your Jetta your on the wrong forum.

The OP has a 2.0 gas engine. I personally (sparingly) use a little anti-seize on glow plugs and sparks plus.

First I have had a few bad experiences with Autolites so I quit using them, but that's just my experience, so take it with a bag of salt.

B) NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

That is from the NGK website. Others are similar as can be found with a quick Google search.

III Please don't use cuss words in your thread title.

Is anti-seize ever OK when threading into aluminum? (For electrical stuff dialectic grease is pretty much mandated, so there's kind of an exception to introducing a lubricant).

I'd second NGK plugs. (WAAY back when, I'd has a gasser hot rod, I'd have loved to have had NGK plugs- Champion plugs would last about one day, Autolites (or Motorcraft at the time?) lasted about a week, and Accel(?) lasted a good month.

UhOh said:

Is anti-seize ever OK when threading into aluminum? (For electrical stuff dialectic grease is pretty much mandated, so there's kind of an exception to introducing a lubricant).

Click to expand...

Not copper-based anti-seize, no, unless you would like to have the threads eaten by galvanism! Copper is materially more cathodic than aluminum and should never, ever be used in contact with it.

Anti-seize is a very controversial subject with very strong opinions on both sides. I lie on the side of using it. the tiniest dab that can be used. I have worked too many frozen and sheared off bolt heads or buggered up threads not to use it. Yes manufacturers don't use it, and it does effect torque values, so that argument is absolutely true. You have to weigh the choices and make your own decision. at my work we use both copper base and nickel base high temp anti-seize. If anyone lives around me and wants some, I can get some little cups of it. we throw away cans of the stuff once its a year old. In reality it doesn't go bad, at least not for many years.

Those are autolite plugs, one nearly broke coming out. I put aluminum antiseize on the new ones. One dab on one side and then smear it evenly around the threads, wiping it off non threaded areas. I hope it’ll be six years or more before reporting on how well they come out. I doubt many autolite users apply anti seize, and one of them barely came out. Antiseize was made to avoid seizure, so I pasted up this time.

whitedog said:

NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. The anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

Click to expand...

Anti-seize is nothing more than cheap grease with metal powder blended into it. Hence the false torque values. That is why it is not recommended on lug bolts. Yes, it does work as an anti-seize but the torque values are lessened due to the lubrication.

So I should use a very small amount of anti seize and then torque it to 80% spec, which would be from 22ftlb down to about 17? It only causes problems when people use too much and over-torque it sounds like.

I have permatex for an aluminum head i dont know if thats ok

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FW7VGE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

MichaelB said:

Anti-seize is nothing more than cheap grease with metal powder blended into it. Hence the false torque values. That is why it is not recommended on lug bolts. Yes, it does work as an anti-seize but the torque values are lessened due to the lubrication.

Click to expand...

Here's some supporting info on why NOT to use it on wheel lugs (got my attention!);

http://www.fleetowner.com/equipment/tiretracks/fleet_debunking_myth

muzy said:

On your TDI? Spark plugs?
Good one, don't forget to set the points after you file them.
What gap will you run on them plugs?
Cheers

Click to expand...

You forgot about changing the condenser.
Personally I mostly used Bosch plugs points and condenser in all the air cooled VW's I had.
This is what I miss changing the most.

Genesis said:

Not copper-based anti-seize, no, unless you would like to have the threads eaten by galvanism! Copper is materially more cathodic than aluminum and should never, ever be used in contact with it.

Click to expand...

Wish I'd known this a month or so ago.

So how do you go about cleaning the threads in the head?

.

phaser said:

Wish I'd known this a month or so ago.

So how do you go about cleaning the threads in the head?
.

Click to expand...

To get it ALL off? It's not all that easy in a small hole like that.

The risk of course is getting something into the cylinder.... Since anti-seize has a grease base a light petroleum solvent (e.g. naptha, etc) on a thin cloth and a wooden dowel as a mandrel might work -- just be careful not to get anything into the hole in the process!

wonneber said:

You forgot about changing the condenser.
Personally I mostly used Bosch plugs points and condenser in all the air cooled VW's I had.
This is what I miss changing the most.

Click to expand...

....now that is a trip.,,,,,,,,,in grad school, my '70 bug tune kit had 4 plugs, a distributor rotor, two valve cover gaskets and an oil screen.....IIRC.

I do recall the kits was less than ten bucks.

Come to think of it, I think there was a feeler gauge included (for the valves).

sigh,



ez

llmercll said:

So I should use a very small amount of anti seize and then torque it to 80% spec, which would be from 22ftlb down to about 17? It only causes problems when people use too much and over-torque it sounds like.

I have permatex for an aluminum head i dont know if thats ok

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FW7VGE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Click to expand...

This what I do, except with the small amount I use I go full torque.

That would be ok. Another possibility, which I have used in some applications, is a TINY (and I do mean TINY!) bit of caliper pin grease. It's rated for extremely high temperatures and is multi-material compatible (for obvious reasons), plus I tend to have it around.

The big deal with threaded things, especially into aluminum, is to always run whatever it is ALL THE WAY IN using nothing more than your HAND on the socket. No handle - ever -- gentle finger pressure only, especially to get it started. This materially reduces the risk of cross-threading and if there's a problem with debris or thread damage you'll detect it with your fingers before you strip it.

Just be very careful with ANY sort of lubricant when it comes to torque, especially in places where it will bite you HARD if you overdo it (like glow plugs, spark plugs on SI engines, etc.) unless the OE torque spec includes lubricant (most don't.)

I use battery terminal anti corrosion spray on hubs and lugs.

truman said:

I use battery terminal anti corrosion spray on hubs and lugs.

Click to expand...

Is that also a lubricant or just anti-corrosion material?
An added note: Here is what I have learned .......if you rotate your tires as you should they most likely will not have time to rust on. I switch between summer and winter tire and have had no issues at all. Now back in the day with older American cars that I paid no attention to any kind of maintenance and just drove them till they died yes the lug nuts got rusted on and had to be cut off.

MichaelB said:

Is that also a lubricant or just anti-corrosion material?
An added note: Here is what I have learned .......if you rotate your tires as you should they most likely will not have time to rust on. I switch between summer and winter tire and have had no issues at all. Now back in the day with older American cars that I paid no attention to any kind of maintenance and just drove them till they died yes the lug nuts got rusted on and had to be cut off.

Click to expand...

It's oily.