How To: Getting that eBay cable to work!

darkscout

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wolfsburg_de said:
Double Post
Then delete it.

eddie_1 said:
I just dont understand why the $99 VAGCOM cannot work properly with any of the USB cables out there or even a path is not recommended on how to get it to work with a given solution. How hard is it to support a couple of different drivers and update the older software? When you sell the $99 version it is implied that there is some kind of solution out there, but it is sort of $99 can of worms with cables working/not working, modules responding/not responding etc. In a way I wish this option wasn't even offered, since it is a can of worms. Is the goal for folks to strike out on this route and come back to Ross-Tech? What is the cost to upgrade to the Ross-Tech cable then? Sorry, a bit frustrated lately with the cables acting up.
Because Ross-Tech doesn't know what the heck what chip the 10 year old chinese worker tossed on to the thing.

99.9% (Lets say I haven't seen one that wasn't) of the clone are the SERIAL adapter with an FTDI232 or other USB<->Serial adapter. So to get it to work, you have to install those windows drivers, THEN the device shows up as a Serial device. You connect to it in VAG-COM as a serial device.

They do put a bold disclaimer that there is no guarantee it will work with your USB<-> Serial adapter. But instead of getting a serial version and a USB adapter, the Chinese have so intelligently put them all in one. Now if you're too dumb to do an lsusb or figure out how to dump the USB Vendor and Product ID and then use google to find out what specific Serial/USB adapter they use, how is that the fault of Ross-Tech?

The Ross 'USB' cable is a real deal USB device.
-
VW Sells you a car. The radio in the car works. You decide to upgrade the radio. You yourself know that there are no guarantees of the radio working. It may or may not.

Say you buy a car second hand. The PO has already upgraded the radio, but it doesn't work. Is that VW's fault?
 

Uwe

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eddie_1 said:
When you sell the $99 version it is implied that there is some kind of solution out there, but it is sort of $99 can of worms with cables working/not working, modules responding/not responding etc.
I believe our FAQ makes it entirely clear that people who want to use a 3rd party cable route need to ensure that works as expected using the free shareware version before they buy a license for $99.

-Uwe-
 

TriangleTDI

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This site is a scam, I would recommend staying AWAY.

Jetta2001TDI said:
Good tutorial!

As a sidebar I would say that RossTech provides the demo version of Vag-Com 4.09, It is intentionally crippled when not propertly activated. It is a "try it before you buy" software, therefore I find nothing illegal about using it with a generic cable. If one would require functionality beyond the "demo" version, by all means one should purchase and activate the software.

I also find that this web site provides a very good cable as well as drive download, all from one site. I am not affiliated with this site.

http://www.autonostics.com/
 
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UFO

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loudog said:
'ln -s /dev/ttyUSB0 /home/%yourusername%/.wine/dosdevices/com1'
This will link you physical USB to wine logical COM1. Inside vag-com use com-port1 instead of usb

Most thread i saw on the web have been solved with this option for USB connection. RS-232 seems to be more trickier.
Because I could not get the VAG-TACHO to work with this method, I managed to get another netbook with XP on it to run both the VAG-COM and the TACHO.

Works great - I programmed my new factory radio and reset an airbag light with the 409.1 and the Alpha-Bid blue cable.
 

mysql

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If the ross-tech software and cable cost $150, I would buy it. But right now it's $100 for the software and $150 for the cable. I just don't see the logic in the pricing.

It appears that the high cost of the cable is in the fact that the cable is a hardware dongle to prevent the need for software activation (DRM). The irony of this is that their software is cracked and readily available online for use without the hardware dongle. So ross-tech is passing on a higher cost product to their paying customer, which only encourages their customers to turn to piracy.
 

Uwe

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$100 for the software and $150 for the cable.
Nope. $249 for the complete SYSTEM, guaranteed to work, with free updates and support. Licenses for anything resembling a current version are not available separately.

The cost of the dongle functionality in an intelligent interface (which is intrinsically required for CAN and has big advantages on K-lines as well) is $0.00. And you can't compare our hardware cost with stuff made in the far east. We've made certain deliberate decisions with respect to where we have our manufacturing done:


I just don't see the logic in the pricing.
Some people think it's too expensive, others tell us we're practically giving it away (i.e. charging too little). You can't please everyone. But I'm certain of one thing: Unless we made it totally free, someone would whine that it's too expensive. Well totally free is not an option; it costs money to develop the product.

-Uwe-
 
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mysql

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You can charge whatever you want. I'm just mentioning what the price point is doing.

Anyone who says it's too cheap likely already paid for it and has therefore convinced themselves the purchase price is worth the cost of admission. So their logic is not at all surprising.

I'm a software developer by trade and I can still make money when giving things away. This may not be applicable to your situation, but a support contract can easily blow away any money made by selling a licence for the software itself. In your case, my bet is a lower price point will allow more people to justify purchasing it directly. I've never seen any other car forum where people borrowed cables and put in their sig that they were available to loan out hardware. Usually we buy our reflashers/odb2/can hardware/software ourselves and don't share. That's not to say we're cheap. I spent $700 for a Cobb AccessPort. The price point was justified because it allows the reprogramming of the ECU fuel map/timing/etc that prevented the need for a stand alone or piggyback.
 

Mattholew

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I bought a cable off ebay and then purchased the $100 license for 409.1. I am very pleased with the purchase and the option Ross Tech made available for people like me who do not need all the latest and greatest because I am not making money with mine, just trying to save money by doing things myself.

It has helped me determine that I had a good cylinder/piston/head seal and instead have a bad injector, that alone is worth the $100 I paid them. It would have cost 3x that much or more to get a technician to accurately diagnose all that.
 

RFD_Truckie

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NB TDi, Your how to is not lost, and the thread isnt a total loss. I am new to the TDi world and actually have learned quite a few things by reading thru all of this. I am gonna have to say that I may use the shareware with an Ebay cable so I can learn more, and I will eventually buy the "real deal" when/if I figure out that I can use it. Here in West Central PA, there are not a lot of options to get my car worked on, and I would rather do the work myself anyway.

Thanks for the How-To

Jim
 

adamant628

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Is there any software around that would let you use the cable from a scangauge to work with a computer? I suspect it should be possible, but I guess the issue would be mapping the port (it could use the ethernet port)
 

kcfoxie

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I'm going to try the driver you found because the one that I got with my cable (and it looks just like that) tests but won't connect to the car's ECU. I know the ECU works because I've scanned it with an actual ROSSTECH unit (one that can talk CANBUS as well as KLINE) ......

Thanks!
 

NB_TDi

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adamant628 said:
Is there any software around that would let you use the cable from a scangauge to work with a computer? I suspect it should be possible, but I guess the issue would be mapping the port (it could use the ethernet port)
STOP HI-JACKING MY THREAD! :mad:
 

UFO

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kcfoxie said:
I'm going to try the driver you found because the one that I got with my cable (and it looks just like that) tests but won't connect to the car's ECU. I know the ECU works because I've scanned it with an actual ROSSTECH unit (one that can talk CANBUS as well as KLINE) ......

Thanks!
The drivers that came with my cable didn't work either. I used the FTDIchip.com drivers -- they work consistently and well. But this is for my 2001 NB.
 

NB_TDi

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Drivers apply to the cable not the car. If you actually peer inside the cable you can see who makes the chip. FTDI is in just about everything, I actually use it for my Digital Gauge too.
 

lindol

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1996 Golf
Back on track about the How To!

NB_TDi said:
Windows 2000 & XP

For Windows Vista & Windows 7 Click: Here

Alright let me be clear first, if you want to bash the use of this cable do it else where. This is a short how to on getting these things to work. I'm 100% agaisnt stealing software so if you use a full version of Vag-Com and you didn't pay....you are a very bad person!

I'm simply going to show you how to use the free, legal, demo version. That's it. This is for Windows 2000/XP. I'll make one for Vista later.

Lets get started:

Did you buy an eBay 'Vag-Com' Cable and find out it comes with zero information or drivers? Does it look like this?



If so than I 'think' I can help you. First you need the correct drivers. So don't plug it into your PC/Laptop just yet. Click the link I provided, save it to somewhere you can remember:

Driver Download 900k

You'll need to 'unzip' the files to a location then plug in your cable. Once you plug it in a dialog box will come up asking you what you'd like to do. You need to tell it where you 'unzipped' the files. Simply put in the location.

Once your drivers are installed correctly next we can move onto making sure that the cable is on a COM port that Vag-Com can understand.


So now click Start-->Control Panel--->System(In the control panel you might have to click 'classic view')

Once the system properties has loaded you need to click the 'Hardware' Tab. Once there you need to click the device manager button.



Once in there find in the list 'Ports' hit the '+' beside it.



Your cable should be listed there. Depending on what COM port is free of course. Now if it says COM 1 or COM 2 or COM 3 or COM 4 you can skip down to the testing with Vag-Com itself. If it says something like COM 18 then you need to read on!

Double click on the 'USB Serial...' That will bring up another window. Once that loads up click the tab 'Port Settings'. Then once there you need to click the advanced button.



Now you see the settings for the cable/drivers. There is a drop down list in the top middle of this window. You need to check and see if you can change a the port to either 1, 2, 3 or 4. These are the only ones that Vag-Com can understand.



If 1-4 all say 'In Use' then you need to disable somethings in the PC's BIOS. I won't explain how to do this now but I will in a update. So back on topic choose 1-4 and then hit ok until both windows are closed, then 'X' out of the rest. You might have to restart your PC after this. If so do it now or else you won't be able to test.

Once you are reStarted and all set to test load up Vag-Com. Hit the options button to the right. And then choose the exact COM port you set the cable to...and hit test.



Tada! You can now use the Vag-Com Demo! You are very limited but it's good to check codes.

---------------------------------------------
As I said before, please don't turn this into a cheap knock off cable bash. The cable I own is nothing more than a standard OBDII cable that came with nothing else. No CD, no drivers, no directions. So keep this thread clear for honest questions and comments.

This is only my first version of this how-to. I will update as I see fit and find changes that need to be updated.

PS The demo for Vag-Com is downloadable directly from Ross-Tech's Website:

http://www.ross-tech.com/

Thanks :)

Hello,
Thank you for the How To. I see that you originally wrote this in 2008, so 2 years later I hope you are still interested in helping someone having trouble!

Firstly, I should point out your link to the driver is broken, however the site points to another possible driver that could work. I tried that and it installed fine and seems to be working.

The next part of the instruction where you choose one of the COM ports 1,2,3 or 4 wasn't a problem either. As COM3 and COM4 are in use it was either COM1 or COM2, I chose COM2.

However, when I then install the Ross Tech 409.1s program and test it I get some problems occurring. Here's a few pics...



But, if I test on COM4 of VAGCOM I get the following result...



What does this mean as it looks like COM4 is happy, but my USB port is on COM2...



I tried redoing this using COM1 for my USB serial port but I still get a mismatch between VAGCOM's program and my serial port COMs, any advice???

David
 

NB_TDi

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Hey,

Yeah I checked this thread a few weeks ago and tested the link. It has been changed, they updated the drivers, but it still points to their correct one. So I just left it.

As for your misaligned ports. You may have some sort of redirector at work here. You should check in the System Information. I haven't used XP in years now but I think it's under Accessories-->System Tools. Check your ports there. You may be sharing some IRQs, which isn't good for data communication.
 

lindol

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Apr 1, 2010
Location
Sweden
TDI
1996 Golf
NB_TDi said:
Hey,

Yeah I checked this thread a few weeks ago and tested the link. It has been changed, they updated the drivers, but it still points to their correct one. So I just left it.

As for your misaligned ports. You may have some sort of redirector at work here. You should check in the System Information. I haven't used XP in years now but I think it's under Accessories-->System Tools. Check your ports there. You may be sharing some IRQs, which isn't good for data communication.
Wow,6 minutes to get a reply, thanks very much for your speedy reply! I did as you suggested and looked at my system information and this is what I have...



and this is what my device manager shows for USB serial bus controllers...



This may be well outside the bounds of what this how to means to show, but do you have any idea what I might do to get this to work? Is installing it on another computer the only way forward?

Thanks,

David
 

lindol

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Location
Sweden
TDI
1996 Golf
adamant628 said:
Does it work if you just use COM4?
Thanks for your reply!

Nope, I hooked it up to the car, turned the key to the ON position and tried the program. It appears to be trying to communicate with the car; a 96 Golf, but after several attempts the following pop up message appears...



Any ideas???
 

lindol

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Location
Sweden
TDI
1996 Golf
I thought I'd try my wife's laptop(also using windows XP), but it turned out the same way. I kept getting COM3 as the port VAG COM wants to accept even though my USB cable was set to COM2. COM3 port was shown as "in use" when I looked at the properties of the USB serial port. It turned out my wireless modem was allocated to COM3. Even when I turned the modem off it was still shown as "in use" so that doesn't seem to get me any closer to a solution.

Would the next step be to try the older version of VAG COM, 311??
 

lindol

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Location
Sweden
TDI
1996 Golf
Hello, I've installed VCDS-Lite now and I'll give it a try on the car tomorrow. Appreciate your input!

David
 

lindol

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Location
Sweden
TDI
1996 Golf
Santos_V said:
Hello and a big thank you to Santos_V! Yes, after following the instructions explicitly as per the Ross Tech site my laptop was able to connect with my car. I was able to finally get a reading on my ABS fault, see image...



I cleared the fault code and then drove around for about an hour and a half without getting an ABS light. I'm not sure I'm out of the woods yet as it does say it's an intermittent fault, but I'll be able to check it as soon as it happens again!

I can also confess to knowing why it didn't work earlier with the 409.1 version of VAG COM, it was the idiot at the keyboard doing things in the wrong order!!! As the instructions show on Ross Tech you plug the OBDII cable into the laptop and car first then open VAG COM, I had been doing it the other way around. Yes, that means that VAG COM 409.1 also works for me, well I guess it justifies my Newbie status on this forum. Hopefully my bonehead error will help another first timer in future.:)

Also another big thank you to NB TDi!!! At least we got this back to a HOW-TO thread!
 
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sauvesun

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Mar 1, 2008
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Manitoba
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2001 Jetta TDI Black on Black leather, 5spd, sunroof, 2003 Jetta Tdi Wagon Black on Black leather, 5spd, sunroof, stock
Anyone done this with Window's paralled on a Mac

I have a Vag Tacho 2.2V clone, am trying to read my skc but my mac running Window's seems to be missing the drivers, any thoughts?

Cheers

Richard
 

darkscout

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sauvesun said:
I have a Vag Tacho 2.2V clone, am trying to read my skc but my mac running Window's seems to be missing the drivers, any thoughts?

Cheers

Richard
Disconnect it from Windows (but not the computer), or just shut off the Virtual Machine. Open System Profiler, look at all your USB devices, look at the product and vendor ID and google.
 

sauvesun

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Can I use the 2.5 software listed here in this tutorial or do I have to find 2.2 for a Vag Tacho 2.2V

Cheers
 

bashoro

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Location
San Diego
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So I think I have scoured the Ross-tech site sufficiently in search of this demo version of 409. I think I may be confused. Is there an actual free demo still available to download and use? If so where is it on the site? If it's on there it looks like it is hidden well. I am rolling in a 2002 jetta. I need to look at my injection timing.
 
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