How Screwed Am I? Block Damage

A quick update. I have not had a chance to do much on it as the IP started hemmoraging also the other day and the car had to be towed home. New seals come in Friday.

I tested the JB weld to the side of the block to determine what kind of adhesion I was going to be looking at. Nothing. It liked my hand alot more than the block. Tried using some degreaser but that always left a residue behind. Then I remembered the next best solvant in everyones garage (other than water). A little bit of gas and a tooth brush and I seem to be getting pretty decent adhesion. Will know after it cures.

I am not really worried about getting gas into the oil, but even if I do, the quantity is not going to be more than a teaspoon.

Looks like it might actually work. If it doesn't, then I might try something else with RTV. I just don't have the money or the time right now to swap a block or even a shortblock out. This was supossed to be my reliable car. The 3kgt is the money pit.

Christian

I've got a good alh block down here in fort lauderdale, has no damage, and no pistons, I snagged them for another block....I would meet you half way if you wanted to buy it, $250.00.

That's the way to go!

Newzboys said:

I've got a good alh block down here in fort lauderdale, has no damage, and no pistons, I snagged them for another block....I would meet you half way if you wanted to buy it, $250.00.

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That's a great offer from Newzboys. If I were you, and you're committed to this car for the long haul, I'd buy that block from Newzboys. I know its a lot of work but it'll be worth it. You can reseal the IP off of the car. Then put it together with a new timing belt kit and you'll know confidently that you're running a solid setup.

Andrew: PM Sent

I don't mind the extra work, but if I got the block I would probably wait until the winter to do the repairs. I think I can get this one up and going for at least that long. The problem is that the 3kgt doesn't have air conditioning if I am going to be driving that as a DD I would like it to be a bit cooler outside.

This was supposed to be a replacement for my old DD. Oh well,

Christian

I must warn you, if you do this you may wake up at night and realize you were having dreams about working on a tdi...lol, I still do

Newzboys said:

I must warn you, if you do this you may wake up at night and realize you were having dreams about working on a tdi...lol, I still do

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I just finished rebuilding a V6-TT, what else do I dream of?

nice, well feel free to call me about the block, I work for the next 24hrs so I'm available

I saw this on another post. Might be worth looking into www.devcon.com

Newzboys said:

nice, well feel free to call me about the block, I work for the next 24hrs so I'm available

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Send over the pics and I might be able to meet you next weekend to pick it up. Can you also send dimensions of what ever you have it in (if anything) ?

didn't diesel geek offer a repair kit for this? Do you have the peice that came off? I have welded cast iron before its a pita but can be done.

mittzlepick said:

didn't diesel geek offer a repair kit for this? Do you have the peice that came off? I have welded cast iron before its a pita but can be done.

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Originally there is a boss which the engine mount connects to. According to them usually the boss breaks at the threads and the stud no longer will hold. In my case the entire boss was removed from the block leaving a very inconvenient hole.

Block repair

Hi
Just read your post about your bad luck with the damaged block. There is a product made by Devcon ( titanium Putty #10760 ) that will repair the block and you will never have a problem after the the repair. I repaired a failed boss that retains the bushing on the swing section of a 500C JD backhoe. This casting recieves tons of force and it has held for over 3000 Hrs. If you like you may call me @ 812-332-8828 and I will discuss with you as how to repair your block.
Hope this helps Jim

Jimmy B said:

Hi
Just read your post about your bad luck with the damaged block. There is a product made by Devcon ( titanium Putty #10760 ) that will repair the block and you will never have a problem after the the repair. I repaired a failed boss that retains the bushing on the swing section of a 500C JD backhoe. This casting recieves tons of force and it has held for over 3000 Hrs. If you like you may call me @ 812-332-8828 and I will discuss with you as how to repair your block.
Hope this helps Jim

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Thanks for the info. I think I am going to try to do this tomorrow with JB weld. I think that with the plan that I have I am taking care of the thermal cycling of the material as well as the DE of the base metal. If this does not work though I am no worse off and I can always try another repair.

Christian

The Devcon works. I used to work for a rental company long ago where we repaired all of the tools and small engines. Many, many blocks were fixed with this cocktail and lasted for a long time under hard use.

Jimmy,

Thanks for the info again. Unfortunately I have some people coming over to help with this and an IP issue. If it doesn't work, I will definetly give you a call about the devcon.

Thanks
Christian

All,

Thanks for the help. I got the IP, Timing, and engine mount issues squared away and cranked it up. It still leaks a little bit of oil but alot less than it did before. I ended up going with the JB weld. I will just be careful where I park, check the oil level often, and leave a bucket under the car when I park it in the garage.

Thanks
Christian

You'll want to get a new block in place as soon as possible. The problem you now have is that instead of 3 bolts holding the pendulum mount casting in place, now there are only 2.

Good luck!

Powder Hound said:

You'll want to get a new block in place as soon as possible. The problem you now have is that instead of 3 bolts holding the pendulum mount casting in place, now there are only 2.

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Perhaps a bungee cord under the engine would help...

Yuri

Powder Hound said:

You'll want to get a new block in place as soon as possible. The problem you now have is that instead of 3 bolts holding the pendulum mount casting in place, now there are only 2.

Good luck!

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Yep, a new block is going to be built. I am trying to minimize down time on the car during the summer as its Florida and the other car does not have AC. I am hoping to get a replacement block within a few weeks. This will then be cleaned, prep-ed and be ready to take all the transfer parts.

ymz said:

Perhaps a bungee cord under the engine would help...

Yuri

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The break in the block does not appear to be new. It has run like this for a while. I know its a risk, but its one I am willing to take since I am changing out the block shortly anyway.

Christian

I was just attempting some (apparently not-so-) virtuous humor...

Good luck with the car!

Yuri

Yuri,

I appreciate the help with this and the other threads that I have started. Thought of adding some additional supports had crossed my mind.

I am just glad that i have AC now.

leaky block

Great, the block is patched.

UFO said:

JB Weld is good stuff, but it will not hold up to the thermal cycling an engine block experiences. I personally bought a car with the same issue as yours; the block was painted after a "rebuild" and I did not notice the JB weld repair for 3000 miles, then it cracked and started leaking. And it was in the block skirt where a rod had been thrown, not in a structural area.

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It certainly won't hold forever but it might hold for a long time. I had to replace my oil pan and decided to install one of the steel bottom pans. The problem was that the steel bottom pan had a clearance issue and didn't quite fit. To get it in required grinding down a couple areas of aluminum on the sides of the pan. Well on one area I got a little too aggressive with the grinder and ground a hole in the side of my new oil pan. Hey, "I remember those JB Weld testimonies about block repairs etc... Got nothing to lose...." So I mixed some up and put it over the hole. I made shure the JB Weld that protruded through the hole then was flattened so it would overlap the aluminum on the inside of the pan too. That was 5 years and 85,000 miles ago. Not leaking yet.

Guys,

I tried the JB weld and it did not seal the hole. There was not enough room for me to be able to get it well seated. It is holding where it is currently bonded. Replacement block will be installed soon.

Christian

k1rod said:

It certainly won't hold forever but it might hold for a long time. I had to replace my oil pan and decided to install one of the steel bottom pans. The problem was that the steel bottom pan had a clearance issue and didn't quite fit. To get it in required grinding down a couple areas of aluminum on the sides of the pan. Well on one area I got a little too aggressive with the grinder and ground a hole in the side of my new oil pan. Hey, "I remember those JB Weld testimonies about block repairs etc... Got nothing to lose...." So I mixed some up and put it over the hole. I made shure the JB Weld that protruded through the hole then was flattened so it would overlap the aluminum on the inside of the pan too. That was 5 years and 85,000 miles ago. Not leaking yet.

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That is generally what I was trying to do. The idea of getting it into the hole and then flattening the other side is what I was working toward. Unfortunatley there was just not enough space and no way to get to the other side. Now I am looking at doing a $1000 engine rebuild, at least after its done though I should have a motor that will run for another 215k miles.

Chrsitian