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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > Picture Gallery/Specs of Members' TDIs > Jetta/Bora/Vento TDI Picture Gallery

Jetta/Bora/Vento TDI Picture Gallery Do you have a Jetta/Bora/or Vento TDI? If so write a message here describing it and insert a picture if you have one. If you don't have one on the computer, email me and I'll give you my address and I'll scan it for you. If you need web space for it, email me as well. Please make a short yet descriptive title for your vehicle.

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Old December 15th, 2017, 11:15   #46
Cptcrnch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketeer928 View Post
I have to agree 100%. I put a lightened flywheel on my Jetta TDI back in Sept 2009 and now am regretting doing so. I wish I had known then what I know now about the vibrations caused by a lightened flywheel. You can see my vibration issue journey here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=481451
I'm now seriously considering changing out my clutch and flywheel in the spring when the weather warms up.
That thread is a good read - thanks for sharing. After Nevada_TDI post I did more research into lightened v. standard mass flywheels and learned a lot. Looks like a standard weight SMF is going to be the way to go for how I intend to use the car and as a side bonus it's a bit cheaper then a lightened version. IDParts has their own "quiet clutch" kit that is stated to be good for stock or mild tuned cars and costs less then a VR6. I have a Malone 1.5 on my car and don't intend to go any bigger on the turbo, injectors, etc. The price of the full kit can't really be beat and it's coming from a trusted vendor and supporter of the site. Just curious what clutch are you thinking about installing and why?
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Old December 16th, 2017, 08:28   #47
rocketeer928
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Since 2009, I've had the DC Stage III+ Clutch and Lightened 17.5 lb. Flywheel. Stage III+ is probably overboard for my modifications. If I do make a change in the spring, then I was thinking of the SBC Stage 2 Endurance Clutch Kit with 21 lb. SMF. I would like to get rid of the annoying vibration. I dread taking the tranny out yet again.
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Old January 29th, 2018, 17:07   #48
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Well I finally found a new job - it's a pay cut but way less stressful, more time at home, and most importantly I'm home every night (old job had me away twice a week for 24-36hrs at a shot). You can't put a price on happiness and improved quality of life so I'll take it. With that being said I'm getting back to rehabbing the wagon as issues pop up. Some little nagging issues have popped up in recent months and was finally able to place an order to IDParts.

The blower motor has always rattled and when it got really cold developed a mean squeal. They're easy enough to replace so I have another one on order. The blend doors will need to be recovered (foam is coming out of the vents) when it gets warmer and the plastic isn't so brittle.

Temp gauge on the dash has been randomly dropping out. Scanned the car and sure enough the Coolant Temp Sensor is throwing a code. Easy fix so another on order.

Serpentine belt tensioner has developed a chirp - especially when turning. I don't believe the PO changed it at the last TB and it looks like the 13yo OEM tensioner so another one is on the way.

Parking brake cables aren't bad - but they're not great either. Two new cables and associated clips are on the way.

Thankfully during the really wicked cold snap we had the car fired up with a little extra cranking. The battery is in decent shape (not great but it'll do until the fall since hopefully the worst of the cold is behind us). All the glow plugs tested good as well. However in the fall I would like to plan on PMing both those items. I'm also planning on getting winter tires before next winter as well - the "all seasons" that are on the car aren't the best in the snow. Plus that gives me an excuse to go to 16" wheel/summer tires when the current set wears out.
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Old April 29th, 2018, 15:47   #49
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Since the last update - blower motor, serpentine belt tensioner, coolant temp sensor, and shift cable bracket bushings have been replaced. Today, after getting a low brake fluid alarm on Thursday, found that the left rear caliper is leaking fluid at the e-brake mechanism. The bleed screw on the caliper was rounded and seized so I just ordered a new caliper from IDP and will replace it on a Thursday along with doing both brake cables.

On another note - the Hankook Kinergy GT tires that are on the car are terrible and I will never buy them again. I'll be surprised if I get another 10k miles out of them. Wet weather traction is not the greatest and the tires are already at 4/32. They started with 8/32 so to lose 50% in 9 months is not great at all. Car has been aligned twice (suspension refresh and recently after the rough winter), tires rotated twice in 12k miles, and pressure always at VW spec so it's not because of neglect. I already plan to replace them with General Altimax RT43s by the end of summer. We have them on my wife's car and they are a great all around tire (and we're surprisingly impressive in some light snow). My commute it going to be increasing here soon so I need a good long lasting tire and so far the Altimax's have proven great tires on her car.
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Old April 29th, 2018, 17:38   #50
IndigoBlueWagon
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I put RT43s on my Wagon a month or so ago and like them a lot. Very quiet, ride well, and good in the rain. Much better than the Michelin Energys that I replaced. I got the set from Tire Rack for $237 after the rebate, which wasn't too shabby.
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Old April 29th, 2018, 18:34   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndigoBlueWagon View Post
I put RT43s on my Wagon a month or so ago and like them a lot. Very quiet, ride well, and good in the rain. Much better than the Michelin Energys that I replaced. I got the set from Tire Rack for $237 after the rebate, which wasn't too shabby.
Dang - I would love to get a set for that price! I'm definitely gonna be checking Tire Rack more often to try and get a good deal. They have them for $315 right now which still isn't bad but $237 is still way better.
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Old May 4th, 2018, 20:45   #52
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Swapped the new rear caliper in today. It went almost to easily I kept expecting something to go wrong lol. It probably took less then an hour including getting the car on the jack stands and bleeding the line. I also swapped in my new ebrake cables - the right cable was good but the left one had worn almost all the way through to the cable. I was also in my oil change window so took care of that chore as well.
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Old May 10th, 2018, 07:39   #53
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Looking for some Input from other members on this...

Yesterday coming back the from the Maryland eastern shore I came across a construction zone on Route 50. They have a lane grooved for resurfacing and I couldn’t change lanes to a good one due to traffic so I rode it out. At a transition to a bridge there was a huge unmarked hole that I hit hard enough that I decided to pull over at the next exit and check the car. Nothing obvious jumped out at me so we continued on home. When we got home I grabbed my work light and looked again and noticed steering fluid leaking from the outermost part of right boot on the tie rod assembly. I cleaned it up and checked the boot which appeared fine and in place. Steering fluid was right on the “Min” mark while hot. This morning I topped off the fluid and checked under the car again and don’t see any more fluid leaking. I just had the car aligned three weeks ago and it seems to pull a bit to the right now - however this could have always been like this since the alignement and I am only noticing now because I am paying attention.

Should I be worried and have a more thorough inspection done or just monitor the fluid level and check for leaks for the next few days?
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Old May 10th, 2018, 21:58   #54
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Sucks to hear that you hit a big divot in the pavement.

I know that most alignment shops have the car setup to have the car pull slightly to the right with the steering wheel straight for safety reasons. The logic behind it is that if someone falls asleep behind the wheel, the vehicle would drift to the right, instead of neutral or possibly left into oncoming traffic where it could cause a head on collision.

I say just monitor your power steering fluid level and watch for any leaks. If you're still noticing a leak, then it would be time to dive deeper into the front end to see what's going on.

Good luck.
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Old May 14th, 2018, 17:05   #55
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Indeed the rack is leaking at the seal on the right side. I was going to buy a reman'd unit but found a used rack on VWVortex from a part out for way less and still in great shape with significantly less miles then mine. My tie rod ends are practically new so I'm just going to swap them over to the "new" rack and doing the sway bar bushings while they're easy to get at. Not how I was planning to spend the money but at least it's not as bad as I originally thought since I'm tackling it myself. I was initially apprehensive about doing the repair myself but with some encouragement and advice from Tdijarhead, along with a great diy on the forum here and a great YouTube video I should have hardly any issues knocking this repair out quickly.
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Old May 14th, 2018, 18:36   #56
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Kind of a back story on mine.

My rack started leaking also and I thought a rebuilt would be a great idea so that’s what I bought. Quick shipping put it in my hands in short order. I installed it and no matter what I did or how I adjusted the steering wheel tie rods etc, my steering wheel was upside down. I took it for an alignment and the guy at the garage says, “there’s no way I can make that much adjustment to your steering wheel with the tie rods”.

I took it apart and compared the old rack with the rebuild. The shaft the steering wheel fits on is keyed and whoever rebuilt that rack got that shaft 180 degrees off. I sent the rebuilt rack back bought a junkyard road tested unit and I’ve been running it for 4 years or so.

I think I had the rack in and out of that car 3-4 times.
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Old June 14th, 2018, 13:15   #57
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Successfully swapped in my new rack and put in new sway bar bushing while they were easy to get at. Big shoutout to TDIjarhead for giving me some tech support last night. I got stuck when the rear subframe bolts wouldn’t thread in. He gave me some advice over text message. Since this was almost 930pm I walked away for the evening, got some grub, adult beverages, and a night of rest. Came back to it this morning with fresh eyes and tightened them down in stages slowly lifting the subframe with the jack. They threaded in the whole way and still needed another 1/2 turn to hit torque spec. Buttoned it all up, added fluid, and she’s back in the road - no clunking from the subframe and no leaking fluid. The alignment is darn near still perfect. I still plan to get an alignment done but at least it’s not way off.

This is by far the biggest repair I’ve done on my own. Thanks to this forum I was able to find everything I needed, from parts needed, DIYs, and the aforementioned tech support - saving myself hundreds of dollars.
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Old June 14th, 2018, 20:07   #58
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More of an encouragement support, than tech, good job Joel I’m glad you got it all back together and it works.
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Old August 11th, 2018, 16:34   #59
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Car passed PA state inspection and Monday it goes for new General Altimax RT43s. Ended up getting all four tires for $265 shipped after the rebate from Tire Rack and my local installer will mount/balance all of them for $50. Really looking forward to getting these terrible Hankook tires replaced.
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Old August 30th, 2018, 07:40   #60
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Last week after shutting down the engine I heard the tell tale sign of a stripped gear in the ASV. Quickly sourced a "new" ASV from a part-out on here. Today, while doing my weekly under hood fluids/visual check I noticed that the large radiator fan looked wonky. Turns out it has come off the spindle and it no longer operational. Thankfully it didn't break into a million pieces an R&R will be easy and I'm hoping to score a fan from the same part-out. Though it's gonna be a long weekend with no AC and the hot temps were expecting.
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