Where to stop?

TDIMeister

Phd of TDIClub Enthusiast, Moderator at Large
Joined
May 1, 1999
Location
Canada
TDI
TDI
If you decide to pull the head to see what's going on, check the bore taper. But maybe this is one of those instances NOT to be as your screen name suggests. :D
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
No plans to pull it apart at this point - I have switched ECU's back/forth and have been able to turn the hard start on/off. I doubt that the tune or ECU changed so there might be some mechanical wear that is making one tune start harder than another whereas this was not the case before. Likely something with the injection pump/injectors maybe?

Just got the FMIC in this weekend as well as new front wheel bearings and brake pads. Timing belt kit will be here tomorrow so one of these upcoming weekends I'll put that in and will be able to see how much timing belt stretch there was from when I originally set it up as well as if the compression comes back some once cam/crank timing is back where it should be.
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
No plans to pull it apart at this point - I have switched ECU's back/forth and have been able to turn the hard start on/off. I doubt that the tune or ECU changed so there might be some mechanical wear that is making one tune start harder than another whereas this was not the case before. Likely something with the injection pump/injectors maybe?
I know that a tune not set up with a proper pump voltage map for big injection components will light off real quick, with a puff of smoke that you don't get with a 'properly' set up tune
maybe it is going other way with a tune set up for big fuel bits and you've got smaller fuel bits in the car?
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
I'm pretty sure all my tunes are setup for 11mm/R520's, but it's been so long that I can't be 100% sure.

What you describe is how "Tune A" starts - there is 1-2 compression strokes and it zooms to life (with a puff of smoke) up to ~1500 RPM and settles right down. Not as bad as an old John Deere 466 with an inline pump, but similar :). "Tune B" cranks for 2-4 compression strokes and catches on 1 cylinder, then 2 then 3-4 and never overshoots RPM's.
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
So, back on post 527 which was almost exactly 2 years ago, I said...
Fix Until Broke said:
If you remember back up in post 503, I found this bolt on my skidplate - broken off my LP turbo mount.

This led to multiple cracks and breaks in the turbo system before I got it repaired.

Flash forward 2 years and I removed my skidplate today to determine that I need a new A/C Clutch coil and found this same bolt broken off and laying on the skidplate again. It might be the same one, might be the other one (there are two).

I guess I know what I'll be doing over the 4th of July weekend...Hopefully I can get the A/C fixed before the 4 hour drive!
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
I've started putting bellows into everything that is solidly mounted
the pipe gets hot and expands a bunch

there is a good stiff one near the rear of a first gen rav-4 if you've got a battery powered sawzall and junkyard time
otherwise they're pretty doggone spendy for the thick ones that will last
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
So, I was really NOT looking forward to R&R'ing the whole setup - not that any part of it is particularly difficult - just don't want to do it :). Just for fun, I decided to take a look and found that the bolt was broke off flush with the intake manifold and with a pick, you could wiggle it up/down so it was loose. It's a bit cozy in there as you can see by the below picture...green arrow points to the broken bolt.



Couldn't get it to spin with anything, so I tried a long shot - I cleaned it up with some brake cleaner and then took the "plug" from the end of a gasket maker tube and using a mirror and hemostat - stuck it on the end of the bolt. Let it cure up and then, again with a hemostat and mirror, was able to grab the nub, rotate it about 30 degrees, let go, move the hemostat again (all through the mirror and one eye due to sight lines), re grab it, rotate, etc for about 6 full turns until it came out!



Whew - it was tedious work, but better than R&R'ing the whole thing! Now I can get a new bolt (M8x1.25 about 80mm long) and put it back together after I figure out why it keeps breaking. The last two have been M8 Stainless threaded rod with a Stainless flange nut welded on the end (easiest way to get the length I needed). The bolt breaks right in the middle so it does not appear to be a result of the weld - maybe a full shank bolt will work better instead of fully threaded? I'll see what I can find - and try to find it in carbon steel so if it happens again, I can use a magnet to try and get it out :).
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
I've started putting bellows into everything that is solidly mounted
the pipe gets hot and expands a bunch

there is a good stiff one near the rear of a first gen rav-4 if you've got a battery powered sawzall and junkyard time
otherwise they're pretty doggone spendy for the thick ones that will last
I wanted to do that on the initial installation and agree with your suggestion, however there just isn't any axial room for it the way I have it laid out. I'm not sure I used any straight pieces of pipe - just tee's and ell's.
 

oldpoopie

Vendor
Joined
May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
TDI
2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
Congratulations on removal.

Stainless is a bad choice for strength. To my knowledge it work hardens very easily. I imagine the vibrations made it crack and fail.. And it is weaker from the beginning than regular steel or grade 10 for sure.
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
Well ladies and gentleman - we're approaching the 10 year anniversary of this thread and I've a similar decision to make...325k miles (155k since starting this thread) and my how fast the time goes and how much life has changed!

It needs:
- Front strut bearings
- The Koni FSD's are pretty tired (can't believe they haven't rusted through - maybe they have?)
- Front control arm bushings are cracked/torn but not "sloppy" yet
- Rear suspension bushings are similar (and original)
- New Tires + Alignment
- Rear ABS Tone Wheel and Dust Shield
- And about 100 other little things

Probably ~$1k and a full weekend's work when it's all done, but should be good for a while again

The rust is starting to show underneath and outside. Clearcoat coming off in sheets, ~50k into a timing belt service, a couple oil leaks that are annoying, R520's have >155k miles on them and are tired. It would be real easy to sink $10k into this car to get it all back up to where it once was/could be, but for the foreseeable future I need reliable, cost efficient transportation.

Not quite sure where I'm going with this post, a bit of reminiscing I guess, a bit of stepping back and evaluating my options, etc. In the end the car is still solid (but showing it's age/wear) and $1k is a pretty cheap investment to keep it going.
 

oldpoopie

Vendor
Joined
May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
TDI
2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
Same boat, but I can’t quit them. Plus I’m moving in a month and will go back to a 55 mile commute. I’ll keep my fleet running. In fact I may build one of the spare blocks I’ve got just to have “in case”

rust isn’t so much an issue here in the PNW
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
It needs:
- Front strut bearings
- The Koni FSD's are pretty tired (can't believe they haven't rusted through - maybe they have?)
- Front control arm bushings are cracked/torn but not "sloppy" yet
- Rear suspension bushings are similar (and original)
- New Tires + Alignment
- Rear ABS Tone Wheel and Dust Shield
- And about 100 other little things
to which I reply, in order:
no it doesn't, they're all always bad so it follows that none are ever truly all that bad
tired enough to bounce and rattle going down the road? they're probably fine, wait until they start leaking to give you a reminder that they're rusting through
nope
nope
"new" tires and tape measure toe job
ABS is just a light on the dash that will help illuminate your path from now on

I am finding that I haven't bought a $500 mk4 in a couple years. This is troubling as I do not have nearly enough parts cars to keep me going for the next 30 years. Everyone seems to want 1k or more lately.

I've gotten into the same mindset with my compound golf however. It's spending more time broken than fixed. Next time it breaks it is getting an o2j stuffed back into it with a stock clutch. Torque limit maps set so the clutch lives. Single wastegated turbo somewhere around 50mm inducer so it'll breathe out to 6k.
 
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turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
I'm with the minimum investment philosophy. There's probably another huge cash for clunkers program in the works, so the old steed may reward you well in the end.
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
TDIMiester said:
You answered your own question here. 1k can be a low figure of the depreciation alone in a single year on a newer car and/or the maintenance/repairs of another car of unknown history.
Thanks for the confirmation - I'm in a bit of a vehicle glut with too many of them that need work/finished/sold/etc - I'll get through it, just need to keep going :)



to which I reply, in order:
no it doesn't, they're all always bad so it follows that none are ever truly all that bad
tired enough to bounce and rattle going down the road? they're probably fine, wait until they start leaking to give you a reminder that they're rusting through
nope
nope
"new" tires and tape measure toe job
ABS is just a light on the dash that will help illuminate your path from now on

I am finding that I haven't bought a $500 mk4 in a couple years. This is troubling as I do not have nearly enough parts cars to keep me going for the next 30 years. Everyone seems to want 1k or more lately.

I've gotten into the same mindset with my compound golf however. It's spending more time broken than fixed. Next time it breaks it is getting an o2j stuffed back into it with a stock clutch. Torque limit maps set so the clutch lives. Single wastegated turbo somewhere around 50mm inducer so it'll breathe out to 6k.
It needs strut bearings else I'll end up breaking a front spring. They don't turn, the spring slides/jumps.

I could probably leave the rear bushings alone, but while the front end is apart that far and an alignment is needed anyway, anything questionable will get replaced. The front bushings are $20/side so not going to make/break the decision :)


turbobrick240 said:
I'm with the minimum investment philosophy. There's probably another huge cash for clunkers program in the works, so the old steed may reward you well in the end.
I sure hope there's not another CFC program coming - that was a disaster if you're into vehicles and restoring/rebuilding things. So many legitimately good cars crushed :(.
 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
I sure hope there's not another CFC program coming - that was a disaster if you're into vehicles and restoring/rebuilding things. So many legitimately good cars crushed :(.
They're all destined for the scrap heap eventually. I've had attachments to vehicles, but once the rust sets in.... money pit.
 

nicklockard

Torque Dorque
Joined
Aug 15, 2004
Location
Arizona
TDI
SOLD 2010 Touareg Tdi w/factory Tow PCKG
Once, when I was considering a project, and I start getting pragmatic over the investment versus the return, my wife told me, "Do what makes your heart sing."
Love this philosophy. Lots of crap in life we can't control. Lots of stuff goes sideways. If it gives you joy and causes no harm, do more of it.
 

3L3M3NT

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Location
Sturgeon Bay, WI
TDI
04 Jetta GLS TDI, 04 RTDI
I think a lot of us that own "older" vehicles that aren't necessarily collectible or rare, struggle when they require a big investment just to keep them going. Of course every person is going to look at it differently.
Some people see a vehicle that's served them well, but it's time to move onto their next vehicle.
Others might really enjoy their vehicle to the point that it's worth it to them to sink some money into it and keep it going until the car is too far gone with rust or the car is involved in an accident.

Another thing to look into is what vehicle would you replace your Jetta with? I remember that you bought a newer Passat and after a year or so you sold it because you weren't all that thrilled with the car. Then you have to look at what the insurance would be on the new car compared to the Jetta if that factors in for you. 🤷‍♂️

If you end up going with refreshing the Jetta, here are some parts suggestions to get another 155k out of it. :)🤣
Cascade German SUSPENSION REBUILD INSTALL KIT, MK4 STANDARD
Cascade German SUSPENSION REBUILD INSTALL KIT, MK4 DELUXE
Cascade German SUSPENSION REBUILD INSTALL KIT, MK4 UBER
Cascade German AXLE BEAM BUSHING SET, MK4 CUPRA R REAR (GENUINE)
Cascade German CUPRA R HIGH DENSITY STRUT MOUNT SET Could see if Aaron would swap these high density strut mounts in place of the factory strut mounts.
ID Parts Koni Special ACTIVE Strut and Shock Set (A4)
Cascade German CONTROL ARM SET, MK4 (W/ REAR AUDI TT BUSHINGS)
The next 3 items might as well get replaced if you're going to be that far into it in my opinion.
Cascade German ALUMINUM SUBFRAME BUSHING KIT
Tyrolsport Solid Subframe Bushings
TyrolSport Solid Steering Rack Bracket
MICHELIN® CrossClimate®2
Cascade German ABS WHEEL SPEED SENSOR, REAR
Cascade German ABS WHEEL SPEED SENSOR, REAR (AFTERMARKET)
Dust Shields on ECS Tuning

You're on your own for the 100 other little things. ;) 🤣

You do have another TDI that you could drive for a while or at least while we have salt free roads or until you get the Jetta back in tip top shape.;)
 

Nevada_TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 17, 2008
Location
Reno, sort of...
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI
My Jetta has a straight body, a recent paint job, new suspension, fresh injectors and is mechanically sound. The front seats are crapped out, but I found a set of VW Racaro's I will be installing and hopefully put another 300k miles on my Jetta.
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
Eric - Thanks for the links, Some of that stuff I didn't know even existed, but it looks pretty cool!

I'm currently driving a brown 1994 Buick Roadmaster wagon that I picked up last fall for spare parts for my white 1996 Buick Roadmaster project car. Due to programs like Cash for Clunkers, finding parts for these ~25 year old cars is pretty tricky anymore so finding a clean parts car is handy. Turns out the "parts" car is in really good shape all things considered (lots of rust, mechanically sound, the interior is perfect) and I really like driving it. Trouble is that the wagon gets 20 MPG and my Jetta gets 50 MPG so the difference in fuel cost is starting to add up with all the miles I drive (~30k/year). Insurance between the two is a wash.

The reality is that the "investment" in the Jetta will pay for itself pretty quickly and continue to save money down the road over the brown Roadmaster. I'm hoping for solid 30's with the white Roadmaster once I get that on the road this summer which is a 50% improvement over 20 MPG.



 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
Those old girls have junk in the trunk for sure. Is a tdi going into the nicer one? I think 30 mpg is overly optimistic if it's just getting taller gears and such.
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
6.5 swap, humvee takeouts used to be dirt cheap
then you can run it on waste oil and it suddenly doesn't matter that it only gets 20 mpg
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
Those old girls have junk in the trunk for sure. Is a tdi going into the nicer one? I think 30 mpg is overly optimistic if it's just getting taller gears and such.
Close... 6.6 Duramax + 6L90E. Stock 2.93 gears with 31" tall tires ~1280 RPM at 60 MPH and doesn't even raise an eyebrow at most hills. Stays locked up in 6th, spools the turbo a bit and up the hill it goes. Downshifts way less than the LT1 + 4L60E with 27" tall tires.

6.5 swap, humvee takeouts used to be dirt cheap
then you can run it on waste oil and it suddenly doesn't matter that it only gets 20 mpg
A 6.5 would have been a lot easier and a lot less expensive for sure, especially if you go pre 93 with full mechanical pump. Turbo swap and set of injectors and you're at 300 wheel HP pretty easy.

 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
Turbo swap and set of injectors and you're at 300 wheel HP pretty easy.
stock IDI injectors usually flow quite a lot being that they don't have any atomization holes in them, pintle lift can be pretty easily adjusted "at home"
I wouldn't trust a 6.5 to 300hp in a truck, but in a car and with an auto that couldn't be lugged into boost? I'd try it.
iirc there really aren't any good options for an 8cyl injection pump, there was a guy running john deere DB4 parts in an IH 7.3 IDI, but he eventually gave up and moved to cummins motors

Both are swapped, or just the white one?
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
Friend of mine has a low 300's wheel HP 6.5 in a 92 1 Ton 4x4 Dually, 5 speed that is never unhooked from a trailer and typically goes across the scales at 40k lbs. It's been this way for ~15 years? Getting rid of the factory turbo is the key to making them live at power. I'll have to ask him how many miles are on it now.

The white one is swapped - the brown one is all stock so makes for a good side by side comparison :)
 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
That's a sick Duramax swap. Definitely a sleeper tow rig, if it ever does any towing. I'd imagine the Duramax is at least a couple hundred lighter than something like the 6.5. Plus you can hop on EFILive and turn up the wick at will.

Edit- I looked it up and apparently both the L65 and LB7 tip the scales at around 800 lbs. It's power to weight where the LB7 crushes it.
 
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