Peloquin and 5th gears install, Part Three

M

mickey

Guest
Remember those 4 nuts surrounding the bit "Number Three" that I told you not to remove? Remove them. Then remove the reverse shifting fork, and out come the shafts! Input shaft from the engine and clutch is lying down. Output shaft to the differential is standing up. Reverse gear shaft is the little stubby one.



Old and new! The ring gear will be reused. Those rivets need to be drilled out, which I'll do using my dad's drill press. That'll be part of the next installment of The Adventures of mickey and Peloquin!



The bearing races for the differential bearings are pressed into the housings. You're supposed to use a "special tool" to drive them out. I used a screwdriver. I would NOT recommend using a screwdriver! I did OK, but you might scratch up the aluminum housing in the process and cause a permanent fluid leak. If you really, really don't feel like ordering the correct tool you should use a brass drift to help prevent damage. At any rate, the race came out with a little persuasion. This photo shows the clutch housing. The transmission housing is similar. There is a shim under the race on the transmission housing, though, and if you ding it up you should take care to hammer it out nice and smooth again before you reuse it. (Why am I removing the races, you ask? Because the Peloquin comes with new, American-made Timkin bearings. The races for them come in the little boxes as part of the kit. My guess is you could use the new Timkins with the old races, but I wouldn't recommed it. You've come this far. Do it right.)



The manual says to heat the races to 100 C. (212 F.) and press them into the housings. I warmed 'em up with a torch a little bit and got them started. Then I alternately beat on them with a Mark One Chunk 'o Wood and re-heated them until they were properly seated. (Machine shop? I don't need no stinkin' machine shop!
)



Jumping back a bit: I KNEW there was a reason why I bought those seal pullers!



That's it for today's installment of "Gomer installs a differential." Tune in next time as mickey reprograms his ECU with a wooden mallet. (The "caveman" approach to automobile service.)

-mickey
 
M

mickey

Guest
The Peloquin kit comes with a whole bunch of little o-rings that will go in various places in and around the transmission. The Peloquin comes with no documentation of any kind, but the Bentley manual clearly shows where the o-rings go.

By the way, I'm using pages printed from the CD-ROM Bentley. I don't think the single-volume paperback goes beyond showing you how to remove and install the transmission. Working inside it is "beyond the scope of this manual", as they say. Frankly, removing and installing the damn thing is the hardest part! The innards are really pretty simple to work on.

Before putting everything back together I'll be rinsing out all the parts with solvent, as well as the insides of the cases. I've got new input shaft and drive shaft flange seals ordered, so those will be renewed too. It's a good idea to replace everything that keeps fluid from leaking out onto the ground! The transmission was working perfectly before, so I'll do no internal repairs. The 2nd gear shows some signs of scratching from my occasional missed shifts, but not enough that I'm going to worry about it this time. If/when the tranny poops out I'll go for the 6-speed conversion!

-mickey
 

jayb79

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 20, 2000
Location
Exeter,NH
Would it not be better to heat the trany housing instead of the race. The heat will make it expand. If you heat the race it gets bigger. If you heat the hole it will get bigger.
 
M

mickey

Guest
I thought of that, too. But then I realized the logic: It's a lot easier to heat the race then the entire case. But the aluminum case expands a lot more than the steel race. The race quickly transferrs heat to the aluminum, and PRESTO! The hole gets bigger.

Pretty cool, eh?

-mickey
 

mechanist

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2001
Location
Ebenezer, Saskatchewan, Canada
TDI
97 Passat silver like the rest, 2005 B5.5 in dirty black, 2015 Passat Highline auto white.
Nice job on documenting the work so far. Very interesting. A couple of comments... The bearing races (cup) you are replacing are matched to the bearing (cone) and while theoretically should match any other bearing made for that application, usually do not with any degree of precision. They have to be changed as a set. (The cup and cone thing refers to parts when you are using tapered bearings.)
Another thing, you might want to try putting the races into the freezer. Heating them does not make any sense at all for fitting a cup into a hole. Going the other way around, and putting a bearing onto a shaft requires heating to slide onto the shaft. I usually keep a can of hot oil around for this purpose- dunk it for a while, pull it out and drop it on.
Good luck and keep up the nice work.
 
M

mickey

Guest
"Assembly is the reverse of disassembly."

The End.

-mickey

p.s. Seriously. If you can take it apart you can put it together. Just a few notes:

1. To remove the ring gear from the old diff you must remove the rivets. One head on each rivet is counter-sunk to center a drill bit. (Thoughtful of them!) Use a 12mm bit (15/32" is close enough) and drill through the head until the "ring" that remains of the head pops off and starts spinning. STOP at that point! Beyond that you're drilling ring gear! I would recommend a sturdy drill press for this job as the rivets are very hard and nasty to drill. Once the heads are off, bash the rivets out with a drift and a mallet. It'll help to heat up the ring gear with a torch to get it to separate from the old diff.

2. Use the recommended assembly paste when you put the tranny case back together. RTV silicone is not acceptable! It'll form too thick a seal, which will misalign the internal components. Just smear a thin layer of assembly paste on both components. The stuff is about $38 for a small tube from vwparts.com (Sorry.)

3. When you install a Peloquin, and possibly a Quaife, you'll run into a snag when you try to re-install the axle flange shafts into the diff. The shafts have a spring, thrust washer and "tapered piece" installed on them, in that order. The Tapered Piece (looks like brass or bronze) fits into a corresponding recess inside the bearing race on the original diff. It will NOT fit into the Peloquin, so you won't be able to shove the shaft into the new diff far enough to start the mounting bolt. Solution? Don't use the Tapered Piece. There are recesses in the Peloquin designed to accept the alignment tabs on the thrust washer. You'll see what I mean.

4. Don't be afraid! If you can get the tranny out of the car you are entirely capable of dismantling it and installing the differential. A propane torch is a must. You'll need the usual TORX drivers, 10mm and 13mm sockets, a torque wrench, a set of Alllen head sockets and a set of 12 point "star" sockets. If you plan to upgrade your 5th gear ratio while you're at it you can get away with using some kind of hooks to pry the old 5th gear off. If you want to reuse it, get the proper gear puller (or be VERY careful) so you don't mar the teeth. I would also recommend using the correct tool, specified in the Bentley, to drive out the old seals that you'll be replacing. (Axle shaft seals and input shaft seal at a minimum.) You can drive them out with a screwdriver, but it's risky. I marred the machined surface where one of my axle seals fits, so I'll need to squeeze some JB weld in there to keep it from oozing axle juice forever.

Above all: Get the Bentley CD-ROM manual and follow the directions!
 

TDi RAY

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2000
Location
FT. Rucker, AL
TDI
Jolf '00 Nogaro Blue.
Mickey have you thought of using the final drive from a jeta or golf TDi tranny it is alot lower. I am going to keep a look out for a beetle tdi tranny and swap a lsd and final from my tranny into it if I find one for cheap.
 

TDi RAY

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2000
Location
FT. Rucker, AL
TDI
Jolf '00 Nogaro Blue.
No all the gears are different and so is the final. The golfs and jetta have a much lower final drive then the beetle but the gears are shorter. the beetle has longer gears but a shorter final.
 

Karl Roenick

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 22, 1999
Location
Clifton Park, NY, US
That's what I though, based on the vw.com web site specs. But there's no evidence in ETKA. And mickey counted the 5th gear splines in his 98 Beetle and its the same ratio as the Golf/Jettas. I don't know what to believe. I'm looking for a .68 5th, but the vw.com site says I already have one (and this higher final drive). I just can't find any hard evidence for it.
 
M

mickey

Guest
From the Bentley CD-ROM:

New Beetle, 2.0:

1st 33:10 = 3.300
2nd 35:18 = 1.944
3rd 34:26 = 1.308
4th 35:34 = 1.029
5th 36:43 = 0.837

Final 72:17 = 4.235

New Beetle, TDI

1st 34:9 = 3.778
2nd 36:17 = 2.118
3rd 34:25 = 1.360
4th 34:35 = 0.971
5th 34:45 = 0.756

Final 61:18 = 3.389

New Beetle, 1.8T

1st 33:10 = 3.938
2nd 35:18 = 1.944
3rd 34:26 = 1.308
4th 35:34 = 1.029
5th 36:43 = .0837

Final 63:16 = 3.938

Notes:

Gear ratios are exactly the same for the 1.8T and the 2.0 gassers. Only the final drive is different.

The TDI has taller gears across the board...both transmission and final drive gears.

All 3 engines have the same speedometer ratio: 13:22 = 0.591. Since all the Beetles have the same wheel and tire packages that means the speedometer calibration is handled electronically...inside the ECU! It should be possible to recalibrate the speedometer for different sized tires. (It is with a Ford Powerstroke, anyway. That much I know for certain.)

-mickey
 

Oldman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 3, 2001
Location
Leander,TX,USA
Mickey, now I'm confused, I thought and looked up the spec that Bugs do indeed have a .68 5th gear. But I look at your post and at VW.com and both specs indicate that all TDIs are the same at .756. Was there a change over? At what date? I know the older Passat TDI has a .717 5th on a 3.994 final. Please help? Also the cost of the 5th gear set?
 
M

mickey

Guest
All the Bugs have .756 5th gears, according to the information on my Bentley CD. Plus I counted the teeth and calculated it myself.

As I recall I'm paying about $150 for the gears, assuming they ever arrive. After nearly 3 weeks I called and found out they're on backorder from VW and it'll be at least another 2 weeks. This will be true of pretty much any supplier. Nobody stocks these things in the U.S.

-mickey
 
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