Elfnmagik
Veteran Member
Are we talking about the valve that is visible at the front on the intake manifold? Looks like a throttle body?
Yep, IIRC it makes the noise after you shut the engine down.Are we talking about the valve that is visible at the front on the intake manifold? Looks like a throttle body?
And now back to my original question. Has anyone ever removed the pipes and looked at the valve to see if all that crap in there has affected the valve?
I've posted before that I feel based on how VW has responded to the various TDI issues at hand and based upon the complexity of the CR TDI, it is very risky to own this model outside of the 3 year / 36k warranty.So have had the issue -- wife brought the car to Fathers And Sons in West Springfield, Ma -- they said yup its the freezing issue -- they drained it and then said the kit and install is $1695! REALLY with 36,185 miles on it-- so I wrote VW and here is the reply
[FONT="]Reference # yyyyyyyyyy [/FONT][FONT="][/FONT]
Dear Mr. XXXXX:
Thank you for your e-mail sharing your concerns with the need for replacement of the air cooler in your Jetta TDI. I am sorry to hear of the disappointment this has caused. I understand you feel you should have been notified sooner of a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for the concerns you’ve experienced, and you’re seeking to have your repairs addressed under warranty. I appreciate the opportunity to provide you with more information.
Please understand TSBs are issued by Volkswagen to assist our dealer technicians in understanding how to perform specific repairs. Unlike repairs related to recall campaigns and service actions, repairs related to TSBs are only performed for free when a vehicle is experiencing specific symptoms while within warranty coverage.
Once the vehicle’s warranty has expired, any needed repair becomes the responsibility of the vehicle owner, even if a TSB has been issued with instructions for how to perform the repair. From the in-service date of September 1, 2008, everything for your car except tires was covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for manufacturing shortcomings for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever came first. Because this coverage has been exceeded by over 3 months, I regret this work is not covered at this time.
I’m sorry, as I know this is not the response you were hoping to receive. Should you have any additional questions, please know our Customer CARE Center is at your disposal Monday through Friday 8 AM to 6 PM, local time, at (800) 822-8987. You are also always welcome to e-mail us again from the “Contact Us” page on www.vw.com.
In addition, you will soon be receiving a Volkswagen Customer Care satisfaction survey. Please take a few moments to complete this. Your feedback is important for it will allow us to serve you more effectively in the future.
[FONT="]Sincerely,[/FONT]
Daniel R.
Customer CARE Advocate
So where do I go from here? My first thought is to sell the POS and never buy VW again and tell everyone about my experience on every forum and place I can. My second thought is try the blocking of the grill.
VW basically does not care about customer service as far as I can tell.
If you park in a heated garage every night you will never build up enough frost for it to melt into a large enough puddle to hydro lock the engine. Win.If it's parked in the garage, the frozen condensation will melt, cause a puddle in the intake system and hydrolock the engine when you try to start it.
Parked outside in freezing temps, the frozen condensation will remain frozen and continue to build, thus restricting airflow through the intercooler and reducing engine performance. The next time it all thaws, it will hydrolock your engine.
Either way, you lose.
Indeed it's while driving. Any airflow through a restriction will cause a pressure drop and a cooling of the air, with potential condensation of any moisture in the air. Theoretically, it is possible to have condensation and icing at temperatures above freezing. Far more likely in fact in the range just below to just above freezing. In really cold weather the absolute moisture content of the air is probably too little for any serious buildup.Nope... that's not true. If you take a long enough drive, it will build enough frost/condensation to hydrolock your engine the next time you park in your garage or it gets above freezing.
Indeed it's while driving. Any airflow through a restriction will cause a pressure drop and a cooling of the air, with potential condensation of any moisture in the air. Theoretically, it is possible to have condensation and icing at temperatures above freezing. Far more likely in fact in the range just below to just above freezing. In really cold weather the absolute moisture content of the air is probably too little for any serious buildup.
Anyone that flies piston-engined aircraft with a carburetor knows this. I have a carb temp gauge in my Beech, and the icing range goes up to nearly 20C if I recall. In aircraft, in potential icing conditions we run the carburetor on heated (but unfiltered) air periodically to clear ice build-up. There is a slight power loss due to the loss in air density. Look at this chart, you can see that carb icing can happen well above freezing:
Carb icing chart
I've had intercooler icing on three occasions. The first one was after driving about 30 km, and the second one, after about 85 km; the third one was just a few km after the second one. The first two resulted in severe power loss and death-rattle vibration while trying to accelerate (passing maneuver and lane-change), the third was a very hard start. In all cases temperature close to the freezing point. In the parked scenario it got warmer during the day.
No and outside temp was 20F last night and 5F this morning supposed to get up to 45F this weekend so maybe.Did you get a chance to look inside the pipes for yourself? While some of the water could have been injested, some should have remained, including the oily slime that so many other members have been reporting.
Maybe pop it open at home later and have a look to see what's up.