2007 Audi A4Q Avant 2.0TFSI -> 2.0TDI

Demon Diesel said:

Looks like my transmission is on it's way (GYH) now I need to find a nice SMF 240mm clutch good enough for a boosted 2.0TDI???
Some have recommended the 228mm kits but it just seems wrong to me. May have no choice.

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228's are good, I'm working on a heavy flywheel 240mm version.

Scott_DeWitt said:

228's are good, I'm working on a heavy flywheel 240mm version.

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I don't doubt that 228mm are good. It's just the in theory the larger the diameter the better it is for holding power (under all the same conditions).

When do you figure you'll have a 240mm SMF setup available?

For now my test setup is using the stock 2.0T FSI DMF clutch. I figure that it hold the factory ~200ft/lbs. And I know people tune them to ~275ft/lbs and I haven't heard much about upgrading clutches. I also have an S4 Pressure Plate and Disk available if I want a little more holding power. It will bolt up to the 2.0T FSI DMF. I'd rather go with a nice SMF that can hold a 2.0TDI PD boosted with a GTB2056. My guess is ~350ft/lbs.

Don't mean to pester, but any more news on this? I'm watching closely, considering if I'd like to try something similar.

conejo_a_cuatro said:

Don't mean to pester, but any more news on this? I'm watching closely, considering if I'd like to try something similar.

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I have been meaning to post an update for a while now.

This is the state it's in now.


For a more buttoned up look and a nice on the grill.


It's almost ready to go for a test drive. I've had a few hurdles to overcome and I'm still working on it. Looks like my battery didn't like the 3 month wait or it is just time to retire it because it's not able to crank over the TDI. This is an easy one to fix.

The challenge now looks like the ECU is not letting me flash it over OBD2. Seems to be specific to this software because my tool works on other EDC16s with no issues. For now the tune will be stock but with DPF and O2 sensor delete. I could have left the O2 sensor in but I figured I would be doing EGR delete at some point also so I didn't bother putting it in my down-pipe. I'm also going to need to update my GPs because right now they are the factory ceramics. I'm hoping to hold off on this until I'm ready to do my list of upgrades.

If all goes good I'll be taking it for a spin tomorrow evening. Fingers crossed.

See ecuconnections for my ideas on obd2....

Anyone in the GTA have or know someone that has a BDM programming tool or something that can disable immobilizers on EDC16 ECUs?

Trying to avoid shipping it out to get done.

About all I can think is that maybe one of Malones Ontario dealers might have the tool
http://malonetuning.com/?page_id=13

If you find someone with a bdm then the bottom tool here is what you need to use on the eeprom....

http://www.abritus72.com/download.html

And it's alive!!!

It's a go!!!

I managed to get the Immo-OFF with one of my cheapo cables. Had to do it on the bench for it to work. I have a full 3.6Kms to show for it.

The best part is I have error lights on the dash. Many thanks to the many people that helped. The countless emails to Mark and Malone Tuning, Marin, the guys at Ross-Tech and others I'm sure.

Still lots of work to come. BSM delete, TDI tranny, SMF clutch, and when I blow up the stock turbo... hopefully a GTB2056.

Anyhow. Car pulls pretty good on a stock tune. More than I expected. It has an odd idle exhaust noise. Sounds like an air leak at the tips. This may be due to the middle resonator thats not normally there. That will have to go when I do the turbo upgrade.

More posts to come.

Which cheapo cable did you use? Did it pull all of the eeprom data?

The cable I used was a VAGdashCAN V5.17
It was not an original and other than the fact that it got me up and going... It's not worth it. It did read the eeprom... And I just clicked Immo-OFF. It did a write and I cycled the power and read the eeprom. Immo-Status changed to "off". That's all I needed. It claims it can do EDC16 odometer also but to be honest I wouldn't trust the china cable. I've had problems with it.

BDM is probably the best way to go.

Demon Diesel said:

The cable I used was a VAGdashCAN V5.17
It was not an original and other than the fact that it got me up and going... It's not worth it. It did read the eeprom... And I just clicked Immo-OFF. It did a write and I cycled the power and read the eeprom. Immo-Status changed to "off". That's all I needed. It claims it can do EDC16 odometer also but to be honest I wouldn't trust the china cable. I've had problems with it.

BDM is probably the best way to go.

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Thanks for the info. As with many of these chinese immo tools they seem to be hit and miss and the supplier just makes up functionality half the time.

So far so good. ~350kms on the car and average is 7.2L/100Kms. Highway seems to be 6.2L/100Kms and that's with the gas transmission. Power is "good" for a stock tune. Totally drivable.

I think I figured out what the white smoke is. I removed the O2 sensor from this install. It was even deleted out of the ECU but I left the EGR in. From what I know the EGR uses the O2 sensor to determine how much recirculation it can add. If the O2 levels drop to low the ECU will pull back on the recirculation. Well in my case I think the EGR is fully on at idle and causing the engine to be starved of O2. Diesel engine starved of O2 (not "air"... it's different) is now one that doesn't fully burn all it's fuel. Basically white smoke along with the smell and eye burning.

Now as a quick test unplugged the EGR and in this code the car does not go into limp mode but it does continuously flash the GP light. Still runs great. Idle smoke seems to be gone but the smell and eye burn is still there. I've also had a friend tell me that I get small puffs of white smoke while driving (maybe on a shift or hard excel).
Any ideas what this could be caused by?

Overall I'm very happy with the outcome but still have work ahead of me. I'll put some more Kms on it before making any real changes.

Just a quick update.

After playing with a few more EGR related items I think i'm getting closer to the "white smoke" issue. EGR unpluged runs better and GP light flashes. MIL on too. I unplugged the anti-shutter valve and seems to be even less smoke. For some odd reason no GP flashing and MIL is off!!! Go figure. I'm not to worried about the codes right now just trying to track the exhaust issue. I did a little reading and it seems that this engine may also be using the anti-shutter valve in combination with the EGR to force the engine to use EGR by closing or partially closing the anti-shutter valve. Maybe someone who knows more can chip up on this topic.

For now I have ~1500Kms since the conversion and it really does seem like the car likes to be kept between 1500-2000rpms. Even when trying to get up to speed. Do ing this gets me 6.5L/100Kms average over the last ~200Kms I did AND still with the wrong transmission. Hoping to get below 6.0L/100Kms after the transmission swap. And then I'm sure it will go right back up to 8.0L/100Kms after new injectors/turbo/and my foot into it!

Still need to sort out my fuel tank issues: 1) below 1/4 tank and the lift pump stops pumping fuel due to my hacked pump assembly. 2) filler neck still has the restriction which takes forever to fill!

Yep, some cars now have to use throttling to acheive egr flow rates due to inlet/exhaust pressures.

I knew it!!! lol.

Ok so that explains why the emissions from the exhaust seems to be reduced since I've unplugged the anti-shutter valve. All in an effort to bring NOx down. I guess if I did an EGR delete in the ECU and plug the anti-shutter back in I should be ok. If anything should this not make the exhaust "smell" cleaner? How about removing the CAT,... any change in the exhaust smell? Right now this car seems to smell much worse than my ALH.

If only it was that easy. I will definitely do that but I'm having problems flashing this ECU via OBD2 (including on the bench). So far the only successful tune has been via BDM100. I'd like to find a way around this so A) I'm not pulling the ECU out of the car every time I want to do a tune, B) I'm not shipping the ECU to Malone or purchasing my own BDM100. I have a spare ECU on it's way so I can try various tools without taking my car off the road. Fingers crossed!

any updates ?

how many kms have you done ?
average L/100km?
fix egr yet?

Still working on Flashing issues. Should have my BDM table today and then I can start working with my spare ECU. Main goal is to get the EGR-Delete done so that I can try and get it to run without choking people behind me. No smoke just very strong and bad exhaust smell.

I'm at ~2600Kms since the swap. That's the nice part of zeroing the odometer. So far no new issues since the conversion. Just a small list of open items to take care of.

Average 7.5L/100Kms since the conversion. 2.0T FSI was running me around 10.2L/100Kms. I've really seen a big difference in short shifting with the TDI and I'm very impressed at the drivablility considering it's running in the 1200-1800RPM range most of the time. Not super fast but drivable. I can only expect and hope that the TDI transmission I have comming will bring my mileage down another 0.5-1L. I'm sure a nice long trip would take me to 6.0L or less. Not bad for over 3800Lbs and Quattro!

Lanciaf1. May need a hand getting some mods done here. TDI trans shoud be at my door this week. Looking into a clutch upgrade. Found a few 240mm clutch options but most are very new to the market. Now I'm questioning the SMF as many use the DMF for some good torque numbers. Also need to do BSM delete. If things go really well I'll have a GTB2056 to drop in too. Problem is the car is running great and I'm not looking forward to pulling it off the road to take it all apart again. Will let you know when I have a complete parts list.

HI DEMON

Im a newbie, even though i have been a member for a while

I am planning a v6 3.0TDi from Audi Quattro
into a B5.5 4 Motion W8 or V6(gas) 4 motion I dont know which one yet, any ideas ?
can a gas tank be used for diesel ?

anyway im based in the UK, and if i can help with anything let me know, Parts ?

whatching your conversion eagerly

thanks

Welcom kickass.

I wish we had half the TDI options you have there.
From what I can see in ETKA it looks like they made a 1.9L TDI 4motion B5.5. Engine code AVF and fuel tank# 3B0 201 075 CC. You would may need to use this tank. The gas (petrol) tanks have a smaller fill neck. You can simple smash it open and could probably use it with the TDI lift pump. I'm actually having the same issue with my conversion. Trying to find someone that has a A4 B7 Quattro TDI fuel tank. I'm looking for a Audi 8E0 201 060 FN. Basically any B7 platform TDI Quattro.

Also It seems that many of the engines will bolt up to the same transmission. These longitudinal transmission have a swiss cheese bell housing. I'm not 100% sure but my guess is it will bolt up.

My transmission came in this week. It's from the 2.0TDI PD170 (16v). The nice thing about this transmission is that it has taller gears then the 2.0TDI PD140 and the final drive is the same as my 2.0T FSI so it saves me from having to replace it. I'll have to clean it up and inspect what I can. Looks like I'll have to swap over some parts from my current transmission (shifter, clutch cylinder, CV sheilds....). Most of them look to the the same parts based on ETKA.


Also did the EGR-Delete and exhaust smell is better but still seems off. I'm starting to think that maybe the timing pickup gear (real name is not coming to me right now) may be different between the BHW and BPW engines. It's not sold as a separate item on the BPW so it's hard to compare. I may try changing the injection timing maps from the BHW over to the BPW computer.

~4200Kms on the clock and no major issues. Need to get the timing and serpentine belts taken care of soon. Will do this with the BSM-Delete hopefully. Just need a few more parts in before I can start.

Ok so I'm at 10,000Kms now and it was time for an oil change. While I was at it I figured this would be a good time to add in my oil level sensor... FINALLY!
It's a small thing but getting the top 1/3 of my display back has been real nice. It wasn't that bad to do either. 1-1/2" hole saw and a M6-1 tap & bottoming tap. This is the same sensor that was used in the 2.0T FSI. Happens to be the same part number that ETKA calls out for the TDI.

Pictures of Oil Level Sensor installed. The other grey connector that's not used is for the engine mount that I have to still source.


I also got around to checking my Glow Plug voltage and this code is set to 5V and I still have the 7V GPs in. This could explain the hard starting+white smoke on these colder days. I also figured out that my injection timing at idle and low power is slightly retarded compared to the BHW code. I think this is used in the BPW setup to keep the EGTs up at low power so the DPF can work properly. In either case it should get tuned out real soon.

Thanks to all on the forums for the great info and thanks to my cuz for his helping hand.

Just out of curiosity, do you have any more pictures or a video? I'm a huge fan of the 07 A4 Avants and this conversion you did is fantastic

Demon Diesel said:

If only it was that easy. I will definitely do that but I'm having problems flashing this ECU via OBD2 (including on the bench). So far the only successful tune has been via BDM100. I'd like to find a way around this so A) I'm not pulling the ECU out of the car every time I want to do a tune, B) I'm not shipping the ECU to Malone or purchasing my own BDM100. I have a spare ECU on it's way so I can try various tools without taking my car off the road. Fingers crossed!

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How about the build of an external bdm socket + wire to enable you to bdm with less hassle?

2.2TDI said:

Just out of curiosity, do you have any more pictures or a video? I'm a huge fan of the 07 A4 Avants and this conversion you did is fantastic

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Thanks. I do have some pictures but nothing to crazy. No video's yet. Maybe once I do a tune and put it on the dyno. I'm suprised I haven't been added to the sticky list with the other conversions. Ahh well. The car drives great despite the little things I still need to do.

m1ketdi said:

How about the build of an external bdm socket + wire to enable you to bdm with less hassle?

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I have thought about this but I'm under the impression that BDM'ing while the ECU is still connected to the car would be a good way to damage the ECU. If someone knows otherwise I would love to hear about this. This may be my only "practical" way of flashing the ECU. I haven't attempted any "external bdm cable" because as far as I know you have to unplug it from the car. If that's the case then the cable doesn't help me much because the work is actually getting to the ECU. It's not as simple as my MK4 that's forsure.

I like this
is not the engine loud inside the car without the isolation inside the engine bay?

Lucian189 said:

I like this
is not the engine loud inside the car without the isolation inside the engine bay?

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Thanks,

Not load at all. I think the newer cars (in this case 2007 Audi) has the same insulation for Diesel and Petrol (gas). When this car was running on gas with the 2.0T FSI it was very quiet inside. To the point that I could not hear the noise FSI and also I could not hear the broken timing belt roller that was obviously squealling very loud!!! When I put the TDI inside I would say that inside the car there is no difference at all. Maybe under hard acceleration I hear something but not much different than the FSI engine. Out side the car the TDI is just a little lounder but not much. The FSI is a noisey engine to begine with. Now all this being said I believe that my injection timing is about 3 deg retarded with the ECU that I'm using and I will have to fix this. When I do this I would guess that the idle noise may go up a little but I don't think I would hear it at all inside.

It's very similar to the new VW commercials that we have here where the guy jumps in the car to scream his head off and you can't hear a thing from the outside. Noise insulation on these cars is great!

Hi,

I have a US Passat B5.5 with the BHW. I fitted a 01E 6sp a few months ago, with a 228mm SMF (SBC) and a 228mm SBC Stage IIE disc/PP. I have a horrible resonance under full throttle in 5th and 6th, only at 1850-2000 rpm.
I am pretty sure the lack of DMF is causing this.
Just to confirm, you have a stock 240mm DMF fitted, with a stock 240mm clutch ? and you have no loud resonance at 1850-2000rpm under load ?
Did you use the 5.7mm/6mm spacer ?

thx

Can vcds log post injection quantity that you know of?