TDI 4Runner

I've been getting a lot of great info from this forum so I figure it's time to tell you what I've been up to.

I'm swapping an ALH TDI into a 1992 4runner.

I bought the 4runner specifically for this project about two months ago, you can find that story on russellness.com

The ALH is from a 2003 jetta, I bought it from a wrecking yard. If I were starting this project all over again, I would've bought a crashed jetta so that I would have had everything. Now I'm scrambling to find parts that the wrecking yard kept for themselves. We (my mechanic and I) were promised a complete engine, and I was too naive to know better when I picked it up. I've heard this referred to as the stupid tax

The pictures are:
1. pulling the old V6 (for sale if anyone is interested, it misfires)
2. pulling the tdi out of the back of the 4runner
3. put the adapter plate on

Must've edited that first post 6 times to figure out how to properly post the images...

Anyways, this was all over the course of the last week and a half.

We set the engine down after replacing the oil pan and it was about this point that we realized we were missing considerable parts. Namely the bracket that holds the injection pump. I'm currently working on sourcing this bracket and have contacted a few forum members that hopefully have one.

Also installed the flywheel that came with the ACME adapter kit and a brand new Aisin Clutch just yesterday.

pictures as follows:
1. timing belt side of the engine where we started realizing what we were missing
2. flywheel and clutch installed

The Engine mount bracket and serpentine tensioner pictured above are there only because my mechanic went back to the wrecking yard and told them ***. That is what they were able to produce. Better than nothing, but I kinda would have preferred the injection pump bracket, at least then I could've made the engine run

Speaking of running, the ECU is currently out to jetta,97 for the immobilizer delete, so should have that back in a couple days.

This weekend I'm hoping to hoist the engine in to place to get started on welding the mounts. I will report back.

if that's a stock clutch you're going to be severely disappointed from what I've been reading...

I did read on a couple build threads about them using different clutches. I'll be sure to let you know how this one does.

Cool build, can't wait to see the finished result.

Ok, yesterday I got the ECU back, as well as the much needed accessory bracket and some hardware from user Baxter'sTDI, so thank you Baxter! Can finally finish up the timing belt and get that stuff covered up.

I'm heading to the junkyard after work today to get some more hardware and hopefully an alternator and power steering pump. I had thought we would rig up a bracket to run the old ones from the Toyota, but now that I'm elbow deep in the project I see how much easier it would be to use the VW versions.

I was thinking about replacing the Toyota badge on the grill with a VW badge, what are your thoughts on that? Like the VW Taro

Build Update: The TDI is in the engine bay and I've welded together one engine mount. We're going to use the engine mounts from the Toyota V6. The goal was so we would not cut or weld to the frame, but the passenger side one gets in the way of the vacuum actuator for the turbo, so that one got cut off and will be relocated lower.

tdi4runner said:

Ok, yesterday I got the ECU back, as well as the much needed accessory bracket and some hardware from user Baxter'sTDI, so thank you Baxter! Can finally finish up the timing belt and get that stuff covered up.

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It was the least I could do for a future-fellow-Coloradan!



How's it coming along anyway?

i think just a simple "TDI" badge would suffice .... is that the aisin ctx107/dtx136 clutch combo ?.... if so it's a great setup with good holding power

I agree, a TDI badge would be more than fine,

Coming down to the wire here, I'm supposed to move to CO on Friday. Yesterday the engine finally got mounted for good (I think/hope), and the hood closes all the way. Last week or the week before I had an issue with the vacuum spaceship thingydingy on the throttle body contacting the hood.

Got the starter on - one from autozone was too long but one from oriellys was a good inch shorter.

Also for those thinking about it- don't piece your engine together from multiple sources like I'm doing. Get a whole car. It seems like every time we're about to make progress we figure out that something else is missing

For example I got a wiring harness on eBay, but it turned out to be only one of two halves. Special thanks to user annieneff for finding me on the need parts forum and overnighting it to me. That should arrive at the shop today.

And I'll take some pictures of the motor mounts for you guys, hopefully get those up tonight.

I am probably going to put a stage 1 or stage 2+ Spec clutch into my toyota pickup project going foward... thought aobut an autobahn clutch in stage 1.. but read mixed reviews..

heres the spec clutchs

http://www.specclutches.com/697098/

might work for you also

Unfortunately sheer will alone was not enough to finish the 4Runner, had to make the decision to leave the 4Runner with my trusty mechanic and take the Jetta to CO, I will return to San Diego in a month or two to retrieve the running truck.

Ultimately I think this will result in a better job.

I still need to source the pipe that goes from the egr cooler to the exhaust manifold. Not planning to delete the egr (yet). Heading over to the parts classifieds after this.

Also there is a manual tdi wagon on SD craigslist that popped up yesterday, needs a new fuel pump. If I was staying in SD another day or two I'd be all over it... Someday

Has anyone used a Volvo intercooler on these? Looks like it'd fit right in front of the radiator and be about as big, but thinner. I haven't found good dimensions for the Volvo intercooler searching online yet though.

The Volvo intercooler and matching radiator/cooling fan is a perfect fit in a Toyota. Looks factory, I just finished pulling mine out because I'm pulling the engine. I don't know if I trust the plastic end caps, haven't researched what they are rated for yet.

make sure you take the time to center and dowel pin the acme plate...it is far from tolerable spec and it will cause problems down the road ....white second gen 4runner, thumbs up!

where or what part number is that volvo intercooler.. might put that in my 1994 toyota pickup..

Was a fordie said:

where or what part number is that volvo intercooler.. might put that in my 1994 toyota pickup..

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From a Volvo 740. There are a bunch in the junkyard. Fits good with the Volvo radiator and cooling fan. The radiator has a built in temp sensor to control the fan, simplifies the install because you only have to hook up a power and a ground and not have to deal with the Toyota or VW fan circuit.

Thanks Rockwell, I had been thinking out of a s60 or xc70, but that 740 combo sounds great.

Jimbote, what do you mean center and dowel pin the plate? It had the pins already installed and seemed to fit well with the tranny...

what specific year models we talking?

tdi4runner said:

Jimbote, what do you mean center and dowel pin the plate? It had the pins already installed and seemed to fit well with the tranny...

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unless acme has started centering and doweling the adapter plates yours does NOT have dowel pins .... http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=429695

Watching in earnest - I've been looking at doing this swap for some time now for my (also white) '95 4Runner.

I assume you are keeping the IFS and not doing the SAS?? Is that why you changed the oil pan? I want to keep the IFS and not modify the hood. How much clearance did you get?

Are you planning to use the VW gauge cluster or keep the Toyota gauges?

BTW, I'm from San Diego a few years back - good times. Best of success with your swap and the move!

Hey AGreen, sorry for the delayed response, I was away from the project for a while.

Yes I'm keeping the IFS, I want to keep the 4runner stock, it's a plenty capable vehicle, I just want better mpg. The oil pan was only because the one that came on the engine was cracked.

The engine sits with about an inch of clearance over the front diff and the top of the vacuum spaceship on top of the intake manifold touches the padding/insulation lining the hood. I definitely did not modify the hood. I think the mechanic I'm working with said the vacuum thing can go elsewhere, or we could do something else without it (I forget which, if either)

Toyota gauges, I had an immobilizer delete done on the ECU

San Diego was definitely nice for the short time period I lived there, definitely loving Colorado though.

And on to a question that you the readers will undoubtedly need more info to answer with confidence, but perhaps we can speculate a little.

Using the wiring diagram in my friend's mechanics software, we spliced power and ground to each wire requiring it, we connected:
injection pump
glow plugs
9-pin multi-function relay
MAF sensor
throttle pedal

we could crank the engine using the toyota ignition, the fuel pump was sending fuel, the injection pump was squirting fuel with good pressure, and we could get a slight smell of diesel smoke, but the engine would not turn over and stay running.

even if the immobilizer was still on the ECU it should have turned over and ran for a second before the ECU shut it off, right? So I don't think it's that.

So my question is, what piece of the puzzle am I missing? Some other sensor I need to have plugged in to make the ECU happy?

can you communicate with the ecm via vcds ?

Not software I have, also, don't have the dash harness so no obdii (which would be the com method correct?). the gas pedal is spliced in to the wires at the connectors that would go to the dash harness. We were careful to check for continuity with the appropriate pin on the ECU connector.

Jetta97 suggested the starter might not be spinning the engine far enough- not enough rpm to turn over?

Hello all,

It's been a while. I got a m-tdi pump from hansautoparts, yeah I've read some not so great reviews on the business, but I do want to do away with the ECU and wiring, so I'll give it a chance. Yes mostly because it never got figured out, or maybe it was right and something else was keeping it from running. At least this way we can eliminate that question.

Below is a picture of the two pumps side by side, m-tdi pump on the left. You'll notice at the top of the pump there is a vacuum nozzle. I'm sure this has to do with running or stopping the engine, but can someone tell me which for which? Do I apply vacuum to make it run? pressure to make it run?

Just to double check, the ground stud shouldn't need to be used because that's just left over from the body of the pump with the electric throttle, right? And fuel goes in the port closer to the sprocket end of the pump, right?

Howdy

I did a similar swap. But I was dumb and used a 1KZTE motor (3L IDI I4 Toyota Diesel). It was underpowered, provided poor economy and ran like garbage in the cold. If I had wisened up and used a TDI I would still have that vehicle in my garage.

Anyway, enough about me...the only bit of advice I would offer is to stick with an ECU. I've got both (a giles built MTDI and a Malone tuned one) and the E version provides significantly more power, less smoke, better economy, smoother engine operation and the ability to turn up the power. The MTDI is easier to connect up but easy isn't why any of us do these things...

Oh...and to answer your questions...

The spaceship looking devise on the top of the pump is to be connected to a boost line. It provides more fuel as boost increases.

You will need to provide +12v power to that solenoid stud. Ign on / off.

Yes, the fuel goes where you think it does.

I second the above, definitely recommend sticking with ECU and E-pump. A $50 immobilizer and all the cluster issues go away. If you don't want to wire a thing, Fast Forward offers standalone swap harnesses. Mechanical injection is so much less desirable imo, it's not even funny.

Does anyone want this project?

I've done some more work on it, it's close to drivable, but the starter will engage for like two revolutions then grinds as if it's not engaging the flywheel. It's a new starter from autozone, only cranked the engine maybe 10 revolutions in 4 tries. I've had it running fine on a starter from oreilly.

I had a spacer made that kicks the exhaust manifold off the head a little more to make more room for the starter. New gaskets all over the place.

the AC is not hooked up. Put an electric radiator fan on, needs that wired. Tires are bald but can hold air.

I need to get this out of my friend's garage so he can work on his own projects.