2010 jetta tdi 6 speed, need a ecu but VW won't sell me one

hey guys, I have a 2010 jetta tdi 6 speed, my ecu went bad and I try to have it repair but a lot of places told me it's unrepairable because the cpu is shot. I went to a few Volkswagen dealers and they don't have the part for sale because of the whole Volkswagen emission scandal situation. I also tried online and they won't sell it either. I did everything for the buyback and not able to bring it in because of this problem. I call VW claims and all they could tell me is they could offer me the restitution fee and can't help me with the car, they said it needs to be able to drive, I told them it won't be drivable till I get a new ecu but they don't want to hear it, I also told them this is Volkswagen problem because I'm not able to buy the ecu, but they don't want to hear. I tried locating a used one but no luck, hope someone out here could help out with any ideas would be appreciated

need to go to a wrecking yard that lets you pull your own parts or look for someone here parting out their car. We are in an online society but sometimes you need hands on to get what you want. I know I have seen several cars in last few months being parted out in the ads here. if you go to the for sale section here there is a drop down box to chose how old you want to view. go back several months.

What I'm not sure about is if the ECU would have to be coded or adapted to the car for it to run. You know for sure which electronic box is bad.... The term ECU is an older generic term from when there was only one box to control the engine.

Good luck. sorry I couldn't be more help.

What is your engine controller's part number?

I wonder if one of the tuners here has an ECU available, or knows of a place that could refurb the dead one.

-J

A quick search on http://www.car-part.com/ shows a lot of computers available. Get the part number off the case on your computer as Oilhammer suggested, and go from there.

How did you arrive at the conclusion your ECU is bad?

-J

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@compu_85, my car didn't connect with my vag com, also try to connect and regular obd2 scanner and nothing, my mechanic told me it's the ecu computer, you think it's something else?

@Oilhammer, my ecu part number is 03L 906 022 TS

So you can't connect to any module with your VCDS? If so the Can Gateway is more suspect than the ECU.

Can you connect to other modules? If not you have a gateway issue. If all others connect you may have something on the CAN blocking it. I have had aftermarket radios do that.

Any module on the CAN system can block communication with others although they are not supposed to be able to. In cases like that you start unplugging modules one by one to see if communication comes back online. Start at the ABS module.

You did check all your fuses for power on both sides with the key on, right?

Pay particular attention to underhood fuse box fuses 6,10,13,14,15,22,23,24,27. And underdash 1,2,27. The main relay in the underhood fuse panel should click when the key is turned on, and it will power the other fuses there once activated.

I had my ecu sent out to 2 different companies and they both said they couldn't communicate with the ecu, so I would assume the ecu should be the problem? I just ordered a used working ecu, I will try to connect when I get it. Even with the ecu bad can I still connect my vag com to the vehicle see something? currently there's no ecu connected because it was shipped to a ecu company but getting it back next week

I had the mechanic checked all the fuses and relay and he said they were all good

You've got some process errors here...

1) the ECU doesn't control connections to other modules.
2) If somehow the ECU totally shorted out it could break the can bus, but if you unhooked it you could talk to other modules again - So yes, you should be able to do an auto scan now.
3) You need to get the CAN working before you throw more parts at the car
4) Simply plugging in a used ECU won't get the car running, you'll have to match the immobilizer. And the fuel injectors

I would scan the car with the ECU out before plugging in a different one. You will get obvious codes pertaining to it missing but it will Qualify the car so to speak.

If then the ECU is plugged in and seems to function ok, the car will start with it, just not run more than a couple of seconds at a time due to immobilization.

I will connect my vag com today to the car and see if it would connect with the other module, I will get back to you guys in awhile thanks

hey everyone, so I connected my vagcom and it did connect with the other modules, I'm just waiting on the used ecu to come in and I will bring to the dealer so they could program it to my car

so I connected the vagcom, everything was able to connect except for the engine, that's because there's no ecu, hopefully when I get the used ecu and get it program from the dealer my car would run again

so everything connected except the engine because there's no ecu, hope everything works out when I get the use ecu

hey guys, I just received my used ecu from a junkyard that matches my exact part number, I connected my vagcom but it doesn't read, it reads all other module except for the engine, is this normal because the ecu is not programmed? maybe I should bring it to the dealer to get it reprogram?

No, it should read the ECU even if the immo isn't programmed properly.

Are you sure all the fuses are good? Wiring harness isn't broken someplace?

-J

Could have got a bricked ecu, or whatever fried your first ecu might still be an issue. I'd definitely give the harness a good examination. Also make sure the connection is fully seated.

I had someone checked the fuses and relay, he said they were fine, compu_85 how would you recommend to check the wiring harness for the ecu?

With a wiring diagram and a multimeter. You should only need a few pins to be working to talk to the computer: power, ground, CAN high and low, and perhaps a switched power.

-J

Larry, The BRM MkV's had/have a problem with the ECM to Engine harness chafing inside the corrugated split loom where the conductor insulation chafes on the inside of the loom. Each & you will find info. The typical chafe areas are at & between the clamp points where the harness departs the drivers side frame rail going towards the transmission, at the transmission clamp & up the block. Typically, in the BRM issues, ECM & Canbus communication has not been affected.

I do not know if that problem extended into the later MkV production with different engines. It might be worth the search.

My sense is that Compu 85's suggested tests are a better first diagnostic step.

Good luck with it.