Power steering pump failure, '99 ALH

I've searched this subject but not found much, apparently this is not a common failure. Fluid was lost from the pump seal, bearing failing/shaft is loose. there is fine metal flake visible in the reservoir so metal is through the system. Is there any hope of flushing the system well enough to save the rack? Has anyone done this successfully? If changing the rack, can the lines be cleaned well enough. I searched for info on changing the rack but didn't find it. It doesn't look like an easy job, any pointers/tips would be appreciated.

Thanks for any help,

Ray

'96 Passat wagon TDI, 313k
'97 Passat sedan TDI, 298k
'89 Vanagon Blue Star
'87 Vanagon Westy Waiting for TDI conversion

Yes definatly. Really easy too.
Change the pump out and flush the input hose and reservoir clean before with whatever.
Plug the reservoir return with a foam earplug or rubber band and plastic bag.
Fill up the reservoir with new proper to spec fluid and with the return line plumbed into a clear container now with the car off turn the wheel lock to lock about 20 times or until fluid is perfectly clean. And to make sure it's good and flushed, do another 20 lock to lock. Make sure to keep the res at the full line every 5 or so turns. Maybe more, maybe less.
That will flush everything you can.
Only other way is to pull the rack and rebuild it. You should try this first and if it does not work and the rack leaks after a while then you can pull it and rebuild.
You can add an inline oil filter for motorcycles if you want on the return to the res but it's not really needed.

Thanks for your reply. So to clarify, when you say "now with the car off turn the wheel lock to lock", turning the wheel lock to lock without the engine running will pump fluid through the system including the pump? I thought the pump was a positive displacement pump which normally won't allow fluid to pass if it is not turning unless there is a bypass check valve. What type of pump is it?

Thanks

When I had to replace the rack on my old 99.5, I bled it with the engine running. You need an assistant, it happens real fast. You'll want plenty extra fluid to flush out those bits. Then we can all hope the rack is O.K.

Some repair stations have a pump that replaces the fluid as it pumps the old fluid out.
The car runs during this.
Suppose to get all the fluid replaced.
Similar unit for automatic transmissions.

How many liters do I need to flush and fill this system?

Thanks.

RayBrubaker said:

How many liters do I need to flush and fill this system?
Thanks.

Click to expand...

The system is about 1L maybe less so probably 2. maybe 3 if you really want to just flush the heck out of it You CAN flush it out with some really cheap walmart generic stuff then use the approved fluid to flush all that out, if you want to save a few bucks. might not even be worth it depending on where you buy it from. its a one way flush so you don't have to worry about it mixing you will get it all out. trust me. It is actually important to use the proper fluid, these pumps and seals in the rack will leak and be killed if not using the correct fluid over time.

RayBrubaker said:

Thanks for your reply. So to clarify, when you say "now with the car off turn the wheel lock to lock", turning the wheel lock to lock without the engine running will pump fluid through the system including the pump? I thought the pump was a positive displacement pump which normally won't allow fluid to pass if it is not turning unless there is a bypass check valve. What type of pump is it?
Thanks

Click to expand...

If the pump is rotating from the engine or not moving at all, fluid will run through it all the same, just slower. I tried these ages ago with the car running, BIG MISTAKE. It flows out WAY TO FAST. Like 1L in a few seconds. plugging the return hole allows you to fill the reservoir full with new fluid after you drained it completely and getting ONLY new fresh fluid though the system and the clear hose attached to the return hose allows you to see when it’s all flushed out. A good tip is to have some small clear water bottles that are empty, 3 or 4 should do it. Fill one of them up with NEW fluid and cap it off, this is your comparison. After you flush what you think is enough fluid, start flushing into a new clean clear bottle and see if it matches the new fluid you set aside. It may look flushed but once you see it side by side you may want to keep going.