frequently asked torque specs

Thanks for the list!

Anyone know the torque for the three bolts that attach the transmission bracket to the transmission on a O2M? Can't seem to find it anywhere.

I'd guess 30 plus 1/4 turn but I could be wrong.

You are right! I actually found it in the Bentley's manual. Thank you!

Subframe bolts torque spec...? Didn't see it listed here. (A Mk4, of course!)

Thanks,

df

Bump.

If you mean the rear subframe bushing bolts... 74 Ft*Lbs plus 90 degrees - always replace... (Not to be confused with the rear control arm bushing bolts... 52 Ft*Lbs plus 90 degrees... always replace both bolts and self-locking nuts...)

Yuri

If you mean the rear subframe bushing bolts... 74 Ft*Lbs plus 90 degrees - always replace

Yep, that's what I was looking for. Thanks!

df

Do these values go the same for BEW engines? (2004)

Sorry to dig up an old thread but found it helpful. Perhaps should add to sticky.

Also, engine bracket that bolts to block, L-shaped, two shorter bolts and one longer, (longer goes in topmost, furthest frontward hole) is 33 ft lbs.

It was already there. Just hard to find because it's a poorly organized post

What is the main cap bolt torque on a ALH ? also do these have to be replaced?

If torque specs are so important why does it seem like most service shops do not use a torque wrench?
I watch a mechanic build a 1969 Chevy Camaro & a 1970 Chevelle from the ground up (installed new engines) and not once did he use his torque wrench.
Also any video you watch online on "how to do" they are always using an impact wrench!

Does this mean you cannot trust service shops at all to do the job right?

I am a trained tech for Toyota. At are shop we tq wheels, wheel bearings, and all engine work. The rest is not needed as you learn you know how tight to go and how your impact gun works. In the 13 years I have been doing it I have never had a issue. As for VW's they are more picky with there stretch bolts. So anything that is stretch bolt related you need to TQ and replace the bolt every time it comes out.

vflflyer said:

If torque specs are so important why does it seem like most service shops do not use a torque wrench?
I watch a mechanic build a 1969 Chevy Camaro & a 1970 Chevelle from the ground up (installed new engines) and not once did he use his torque wrench.
Also any video you watch online on "how to do" they are always using an impact wrench!

Does this mean you cannot trust service shops at all to do the job right?

Click to expand...

Is there a torque spec for the turbo oil line banjo bolt on the filter housing? the one with the two copper crush washers.

adjat84th said:

Is there a torque spec for the turbo oil line banjo bolt on the filter housing? the one with the two copper crush washers.

Click to expand...

15 Ft*Lbs - use new crush washers...

vflflyer said:

Does this mean you cannot trust service shops at all to do the job right?

Click to expand...

You can trust them to do the job relatively quickly... some of them will get the torque values correctly, some of them will get them "in the ballpark," and others will be way off the mark... some of those last ones will "get away" with it... others won't... (or else the damage will only become apparent many thousand miles later, where pinning the "blame" will be next to impossible...)

Yuri

Bump this for suspension torque specs not listed in PDF on page 2, #7.

Been looking a printout like this for days. Thanks for that.

Can anyone shed some light as to the correct torque setting & procedure for tightening the front hub to axle BOLT (not a nut) on a 2004 Audi A3 2.0 TDi. It is a genuine Audi bolt, the 12 point, triple square bolt with no splines underneath the bolt flange, it's just smooth. I've read about so many different methods & torque settings it makes my head spin!! Some of the advice given was tighten to 200 Nm & immediately after tighten it an extra 90 deg. another opinion was tighten to 70 Nm & an extra 60 deg. & also slackening off the bolt then tightening a further 180 deg & even 1 that says torque to 200 Nm slacken by 90 deg. you then have to rotate the wheel 1 complete turn & then torque to 90Nm & then a further 90 deg.!!!! HELP!!!! Some of these answers came from the Bentley manual & some from an Audi tech!!! Can you give me your answers in newton metres please. Thanks.

Incorrect torque

I have found that the specified torque for the crankshaft bolts is incorrect. I do not have a Bentley manual, so someone please correct this if it is wrong. I tried torquing the crankshaft bolts to 88 ft lbs and they just stretched and then snapped without ever getting to that number. I then researched and read online someplace that it is 48 ft lbs plus 90 degrees. i used those values and did not have a problem. All this being said, I believe the correct torque for the crankshaft bolts when rebuilding an engine is 48 foot lbs and NOT 88 foot lbs.

Which exact bolts are you talking about? The bearing bolts? The crank sprocket bolt? etc.

FaustFamily said:

I have found that the specified torque for the crankshaft bolts is incorrect. I do not have a Bentley manual, so someone please correct this if it is wrong. I tried torquing the crankshaft bolts to 88 ft lbs and they just stretched and then snapped without ever getting to that number. I then researched and read online someplace that it is 48 ft lbs plus 90 degrees. i used those values and did not have a problem. All this being said, I believe the correct torque for the crankshaft bolts when rebuilding an engine is 48 foot lbs and NOT 88 foot lbs.

Click to expand...

The 4, M8 bolts for the harmonic balance are supposed to be torqued to 18 ft.lbs although I frequently torque them to 22.

The single, M16 bolt that holds on the toothed belt sprocket for the crankshaft is not only torqued to 88ft. lbs but also an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn)

Sometimes you need to be able to look at a bolt and just know if the torque setting your seeing is appropriate. Do not allow your common sense to be overruled. Obviously attempting to torque an M8 fastener to 88ft. lbs would result in failure. I'm surprised you were able to get it to 48.

If the torque setting doesn't make sense, go back and look again to be sure you have identified the bolt, and it's position correctly.

There are some errors in the documentation that has been generated surrounding this thread but the original post does not contain any errors as far as I can tell.

It is also sometimes difficult to describe which bolt is which using words. Which is why ETKA exists.

Furthermore, The spec below is indeed what the Bentley says it is, but I believe that 30+90 is just way too much. I torque these to 37ft.lbs only.

-Transmission mount to "bracket that holds transmission" (the 2 big 18mm bolts that hang the tranny from the mount) - 100nm (74ftlbs)

-Dog bone (aka) Rear Transmission Mount (aka) Pendulum Support...

-Rear 2 bolts (to subframe) 20nm + 90deg (15ftlbs + 1/4turn)
-Front 2 (to tranny) 40nm + 90deg (30ftlbs + 1/4turn)

Click to expand...

And I don't see the crank main bearing cap bolts listed so I guess you're not talking about those?

Incorrect torque spec

-Crank shaft bolt: 88 + 90 degrees is wrong. I am talking about the crankshaft main bearing bolts OE Part Number: N90130001

48 ft lbs +90 is what I used. 88 ft lbs just snapped the bolt before it ever reached that preload.

Maybe you should buy a Bentley manual.

I'm saying: "The capital of New Hampshire is Concord."

You are saying: "Wrong! Concord is not the capital of Vermont!"

And you are correct, the torque spec for the crankshaft main bearing bolts is 48 ft. lbs plus 1/4 turn.

I'll add it to the list

Updated specs

Please remove the incorrect entry of 88ft lbs for crankshaft bolts.

Thanks.

FaustFamily said:

Please remove the incorrect entry of 88ft lbs for crankshaft bolts.

Click to expand...

Or, rather, rename them to reflect that the value is for the crankshaft sprocket bolt...


Yuri