shimmy in front end when applying brakes

Question for the experts: When applying the brakes I get a "shimmy" (steering wheel moves left and right a little real fast). What is the usual culprit to this? Time for a brake job and to have the rotors cut (can these rotors be cut?)? Car tracks fine while driving, so I don't believe it to be steering related. Tires may have 10k on them and I bought them new last year. No vibration at speeds. Car is 01 TDI Jetta.

Thanks...
Mark

I've read worn LCA bushings are a likely culprit. Can't 100% confirm this.
Are you still on your original suspension?
Oem rotors are pretty cheap -'and given they should last at least 100,000kms Mind as well replace them than turn them down IMO.

When this happend to me it was a warped rotor. The two shouldered bolts that the brake calipers slide on are stainless steel and they screw into the steering knuckle which has steel threads.

There is the *potential* that the stainless has rusted and corroded the threads. I would ask the shop to take a look at them and make sure they are servicable before sending you back on the road.

Most likely it is time for some new rotors/pads.

Whose rotors pads do you recommend and who has the best price? I guess I can get new stainless bolts just for piece of mind then? Thanks for the answers
Mark

One way to tell is if when you apply brakes at first, get the shimmy then apply harder. If the shimmy goes away upon firmer braking your LCA's are shot. That's what happened to me even after a 4 corner brake job. Look in to the TT LCA's if that's the case.

DCdesign said:

One way to tell is if when you apply brakes at first, get the shimmy then apply harder. If the shimmy goes away upon firmer braking your LCA's are shot. That's what happened to me even after a 4 corner brake job. Look in to the TT LCA's if that's the case.

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Yeah, generally, if you are under hard braking, you will not get the vibration if the rotars are slightly warped.

OP
I would not reccomend resurfacing these rotars unless you wish to get back in there and replace them three months from now when they warp . They can be resurfaced but they with almost certainly warp.

I vote LCAs. Had the same issue w/ mine and it is fixed now.

Where is a good place to look for the TT LCA's? I had bushings replaced on mine last year, but I seem to either warp rotors easy or the LCA's are pooched as well, it's annoying

Zedbra said:

Where is a good place to look for the TT LCA's? I had bushings replaced on mine last year, but I seem to either warp rotors easy or the LCA's are pooched as well, it's annoying

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Here is just one of the places that offer them

http://idparts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=36_111

i think kerma and bleachedboard also sell them as well as most of the other vendors recommended on this site.

+1 for bushings. had mine replaced last fall, shimmy immediately ceased. now that the front end isn't shaking I can actually tell that I have a mildly warped rotor, with steady pressure on the brake pedal the steering wheel doesn't shake but there is an uneven deceleration feeling.

My wife has a shimmy in her back end.

LOL, thats a good place to have a shimmy. OK, went and bought new pads and rotors. Started to take everything apart, and of course I dont have the 30mm 12 point socket. So putting everything back together for now, I noticed that one of the pads (front) has a wire attached to it, for the anti lock I assume? Anyway, looked at the new pads, no wire on any of them nor a place that would look like a wire is supposed to attach to. The pads I got are correct part numbers (got at advance) so is what is the the problemo that they don't have this wire?? Anyone else run into this issue? I notice if this wire isn't connected, I get a light in the dash panel of a circle with the little squares around it. Or is this some kind of wear sensor?

I've read that warped rotors on street or even competition vehicles are a myth. What feels like warps is really material transfer from the pads to the rotors due to heating of pads/rotors along with keeping the brakes applied, which leaves hot pad material on the rotors, thus causing the uneven feeling many call warped rotors. Scuffing the rotor surfaces evenly can often remove it.

OK figured out wire, I got the wrong pads of course.. a whole new issue returning items ordered from internet and pick up at store, I dont recommend it.

Wire on the pad is a wear sensor. I did the whole front end with brakes and bushings from IDPARTS. they are great to deal with. My LCAs were shot and the tierods also.

bigtom111 said:

My wife has a shimmy in her back end.

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Same Here

Mark,

Apply the brakes and when it starts to shimmy, apply the brakes a little firmer. I bet the shimmy stops. It's the LCA bushings.

Mine need done, too. I'll be getting OEM Audi TT bushings.

LCA's! I had the same issue. I did need new rotors and pads because someone let the car sit for too long and the rotors rusted up on them really bad. Replaced the brakes and it was better but still had that shimmy. Changed the LCA's for the TT bushings. Best 40 bucks I've ever spent.

Not sure why you would require a 30 mm 12 point sockett while doing brakes. The rotors come off without taking the axel nut off.