Xerootg's Jeep Cherokee BHW swap

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
I left off with the transfer case clocked at the stock XJ position, BUT because the transmission adapter pushes the transfer case back so far the front driveshaft interferes with the crossmember. I decided to cut the transmission tunnel up to clock the transfer case up, and out of the way.

Here’s what I started with:





The first step was to cut a big enough hole that everything fits, and test fit with the seat frame.



Then I started filling the hole back in, one jigsaw puzzle piece at a time.



The bottom hump needed to be notched to fit the seat frame.



I ended up with this. I used seam sealer to smooth the edges underneath, along with por15 chassis coat and finally underbody rubberizing spray.





Everything fits like a glove!



Here’s my final clocking:

 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
I’ve been super busy on this Jeep! My list of things to do has got much shorter.

The air to water intercooler is pretty neat, as it really shortens the whole thing. I got a kit from frozen boost, with the bosch pump. The bosch pump fits nicely on the passenger side frame rail. I still need to wire it up, and I’m planning on the pump running in the RUN position.







I finished up the fuel delivery system. I settled on a Stanadyne FM100 with a hand primer. I added a 30psi gauge to the filter outlet. I also used 30R9 for the return and reused the supply side. The 30 gallon tank was plumbed so if the Cummins pump fails, the auxiliary straw from the fuel module can just plug and play without dropping the tank.





I plumbed up the power steering system, and added a cooler to the front. I used Russell Performance PowerFlex for the high pressure hose and ATF rated hose for the rest. I used a BMW reservoir and a hasty mount with a hose clamp above the pump. I am really liking the reusable threaded AN fittings you can buy these days.



I also got the Webasto mounted. I’m still waiting for some fittings for it for the fuel supplu, but its not moving.



I bolted a volvo cooling fan to a Jeep fan shroud for cooling. Should be overkill. I’m also using a temperature switch from a golf, threaded into the factory jeep sensor port. More to come on this when I finalize the wiring.



 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
I finished up the boost track. I used 2 inch aluminum tube and silicone joiners to plumb the whole thing. I also spent a lot of time getting the York sc609 bolted up. I’m looking forward to having this guy for belt driven air.





Next steps:
  • Vacuum lines, reservoir and N75 bracket
  • plumb heater, and build overflow bottle
  • Finish AC (replace condenser, evap, lines, heater core while I’m at it)
  • Finish wiring. Have a plan, just need to do it.
  • Make a non-prototype CAN-CCD gateway. This is sitting on my bench stress testing in breadboard form with actual code running the gauges!
  • Get drivelines built
  • Transmission tunnel cover
  • Transfer case linkage.

I’m pretty excited that the front might stay bolted on this time!

 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
I've been working away on this for the last couple weeks as expected, BUT last night I hit a snag. The wiring harness was finally in something resembling running condition, so I put 5 gallons of fuel into the tank, pressurized the fuel system, filled the engine with oil, and tried starting it. No dice.

The engine turns over, and what seems like every other stroke, the engine seems like its hitting, but no start happens. I get a thick grey-black smoke from the exhaust after probably 15-20 seconds of cranking. I have a solid 14lbs of fuel pressure at the fuel filter. I tried a BHW and BEW ECU. Neither ECU has any sort of tune beyond stock, but the BHW has been IMMO off'ed and had the "hot start" fix applied. So... What should I be looking for?
 

Ricsi168

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2013
Location
Hungary
TDI
2.5 V6 TDI; 1.9PDTDI AVF
Hello!


Can you post the turbo adapter sizes,or draws i would like to run the same turbo with the same manifold!

Thanks!
 

Motohead1

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Location
charlotte
TDI
2002 bug+telephone pole
I've been working away on this for the last couple weeks as expected, BUT last night I hit a snag. The wiring harness was finally in something resembling running condition, so I put 5 gallons of fuel into the tank, pressurized the fuel system, filled the engine with oil, and tried starting it. No dice.

The engine turns over, and what seems like every other stroke, the engine seems like its hitting, but no start happens. I get a thick grey-black smoke from the exhaust after probably 15-20 seconds of cranking. I have a solid 14lbs of fuel pressure at the fuel filter. I tried a BHW and BEW ECU. Neither ECU has any sort of tune beyond stock, but the BHW has been IMMO off'ed and had the "hot start" fix applied. So... What should I be looking for?



Codes?
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
Can you post the turbo adapter sizes,or draws i would like to run the same turbo with the same manifold!
I'm not convinced that its been worth the effort. I'll post the rhinocad drawing, but its been a serious PITA, and doesn't work properly as of today since the actuator had to be swapped from a gt1749va and a bracket fabricated. I'm working through that now.

Oh man, where do I start! No codes to speak of. I have "missing message" codes, but that is due to the fact that most of the rest of the vehicle the ECU is expecting is missing. I had the supply and return reversed. The telltale for me was that the pressure on the supply side never dropped. There's a check valve in the return that prevents the shenanigan I tried pulling from working, and the smoke must have just been residual diesel in the fuel supply galley in the head.



When I realized this, I went home early, swapped the lines, and took the jeep for a drive! :D

Now... I have a coolant leak at the back of the head once the radiator pressurizes, if I hook the N75 up to the turbo, the turbo makes a horrific squealing, and my choice of a cherry bomb makes for a terrible droning at any speed.

What makes a turbo shreak/squeal when the actuator is at 100% vacuum at idle? Both the gt1749va and the gtc1549vz have pull actuators, have the same actuator stroke, and the actuator was adjusted so that at no vacuum the arm was just above the stop. With no vacuum applied, I get some boost as expected, and no shrieking. :confused:
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
Here's what I'm trying to figure out.

https://youtu.be/XOL6iBZZAy4

Is it just the lack of tune? I can't imagine it is, the n75 map in a CGLC has the duty cycle at 100% at idle which matches my tune. I've never heard a turbo make this noise? Anyone?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

Motohead1

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Location
charlotte
TDI
2002 bug+telephone pole
Eliminate the possibility of a vac leak making that noise by hooking up a hand vac to the actuator. If it still screaming then its the turbo.
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
Eliminate the possibility of a vac leak making that noise by hooking up a hand vac to the actuator. If it still screaming then its the turbo.
Yeah I did that right after I posted this, it starts at 16 in hg. So... What's wrong with the turbo? I can pick up another used one cheaply on ebay, but I'd personally just like to know what that sound indicates has failed?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

Motohead1

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Location
charlotte
TDI
2002 bug+telephone pole
Sounds like thrust bearing is shot. Either the turbin or compressor wheel is hitting the housing. Depending on which way its walking.
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
It is time for my wiring writeup. I’ve put a lot into the wiring on this Jeep. I’m only going to document the non-obvious parts. For the obvious parts, I used this diagram:



AC Control

The AC is the craziest, so I’ll start there. The AC Circuit is broken into three parts:
  1. AC Request Relay
  2. AC Clutch Control Relay
  3. Fan Request Relay

The Jeep controls ground a wire when AC is selected. This for our purposes is called AC_Request. AC_Request on the VW side is 12v+, so we need to flip that around. Next, we have the “Bidirectional Climate Control” circuit (94/50), which in VW goes to either a climatronic, Relay 378 on the B5’s or a Fan Control Module in the A4 types. This pin is pulled to an internal 1.8v supply when AC is allowed by the ECU. This is worthlessly low to us, so I used a couple off the shelf transistors, resistors, and a diode to convert to 12v to drive yet another relay to control the Compressor Clutch. We also need our cycling switches, so we hook those up to ground and to the other side of the clutch control relay.



To waterproof the transistors, I put them inside of a piece of heavy duty waterproof heatshrink.





The next piece of magic, I used a 2 speed Volvo fan and relay. It switches the fan on based on either the low or high wire being connected to ground. In order to do this but only when the jeep is on, we need yet another relay.



Fan Control

The two speed Volvo fan and relay are a good junkyard snag – the fans are very high flow and slim, and the relay is well matched to the draw of the massive fan. I mounted the fan relay between the battery and fender, so the wire can remain short. To switch the relay I snagged a thermal switch out of an A4 platform car, 1J0 959 481 A. It threads right into the jeep radiator. I de-pinned a connector (1J0 973 203) I got at the junkyard and connected it up.





1 - Low
2 - Ground
3 - High

Coolant Glowplugs

The coolant glowplugs in the A4 platform are switched by two relays. One is a 70A Bosch Mini, and the other is a standard 40A. The combined circuits are 50A, so this one is super straight forward. Throughout this, I reused my Jeep relay box, which for space reasons is primarily made up of micro relays with a max rating of 20A. Each coolant glowplug is rated at 17A, so we can easily use three relays instead of 2 and keep everything stock in my relay box!



 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
I threw a belt! As predicted by some, the belt walked into the timing cover and shredded all it was worth. Fortunately, I was sitting in the drivers seat and turned it off before any damage could occur. The fix is to use pullies with flanges. Easier said than done! I read somewhere that the recommended maximum bend radius for a pk6 belt is 90mm, so there just aren’t a lot of pullies to pick from if you need a smaller circle. I already went through this selection process once. I settled on an industrial pully from McMaster-Carr 6235K68 for the smooth side of the belt, and a Gates 38082 for the grooved side. The belt length remained constant but is significantly tighter. The McMaster-Carr pully is for industrial belt and has a 6203RS bearing like everything else so it should hold up just fine. I bought a couple so I can keep one in my glove box.



There have been requests for my turbo adapter design – here it is. Let me be clear, I had Matt Whitbread manufacture mine, I do not know what, if any, changes he made.

I was concerned that the exhaust was a tad close to the firewall, so I wrapped it. All in, wrapping a downpipe is pretty straight forward. I used a DEI basalt based wrap, finished it with stainless zip strips, and sealed it with a silicone exhaust temp. I like how it looks!





 
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xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
One other thing I’ve spent a lot of time on is the transfer case shifter. I really like the looks of the atlas twin stick cable shifter, so I got one. They are quite pricy, and unbeknownst to me use a non-standard cable length, so there was a lot of fab to make it work.



The simplest modification was the EcoBox bracket. I bought Jon Barlow’s bracket for this expecting everything to bolt up. I ended up shortening and flipping the bracket to work with the shorter throw cable of the atlas shifter.



The more complex one – the NP242 has a very long throw. The shortest of shift levers was still too long of a throw for my cable, so I had to fabricate up a bellcrank to lengthen everything. To make matters worse, the bracket I bought for this was from Dirtbound Offroad, and it was incompatible with the strengthened webbing of the EcoBox. I ended up needing to cut it in half to get its mounting ears into place.



I found a new turbo on ebay, the original was definitely failed. I could not find signs of wear, but the bearings don’t feel too hot. Once the new turbo was bolted up, I got a tune from Malone Tuning, and drove to the gas station to fill up. 30 gallons of diesel ain’t cheap!

 

arazvan2002

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Location
Romania
TDI
Audi A4 B6 1.9TDI AVF quattro
I tried to download the turbo flange drawing but link is dead. The metal flange from the picture is the final one? I suppose you removed the original actuator because you clocked the compressor housing, otherwise it should work as it is.

I don't have any words than WOW and congratulations for your conversion. How is it working with the tune?
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
I tried to download the turbo flange drawing but link is dead. The metal flange from the picture is the final one? I suppose you removed the original actuator because you clocked the compressor housing, otherwise it should work as it is.

I don't have any words than WOW and congratulations for your conversion. How is it working with the tune?
Thanks! I updated the link, give it another try. I must have copied and pasted it wrong. The tune is just starting to take form. Malone is getting the n75 map sorted before turning anything else up. I suppose that means I'm on a baseline 136hp at the moment. That said, it is more responsive already than the gt1749va that is on my B5.5, so that is worth something.

I clocked both the exhaust and compressor. I initially used a modified adjustable actuator bracket to give myself more room for the outlet to clear the A/C compressor since I hadn't fabricated the mounting for that yet. When I replaced the turbo, I found that simply going to a non-feedback actuator on the original mount gave me enough clearance for the A/C compressor and gave me more frame clearance. I did replace the vacuum line with silicone since it is now very close to the EGR cooler.

I have also been struggling with getting my oil supply line to seal at the -4AN to M12x1.0 adapter. I used permatex 59214 because the adapter I have does not have enough of a shoulder for a crush washer. The seal has failed 3 times now, so I found an adapter with a larger shoulder so I can use a crush washer. I'll report back on this at some point.

You gotta post something about your build, there just isn't alot of gtc1549vz info out there unless your building one of the 3cyl TDIs in Europe!

In other news, I totally reworked my CAN gateway design, and PCBs are on their way now. I'll be writing that up as soon as it's functional. I built the new unit to support a Bosch combo oil pressure and temperature sensor amongst other improvements.
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
So I drove the Jeep to work yesterday! It was about 60 miles round trip, with some interstate speeds. My, my do I still have work to do! About 5 miles out from my house, I had one of the intake track hoses fail while going uphill. I limped to the next offramp and got it all put back together, and continued my journey to work. About a mile out from my office I noticed my intake temperatures skyrocketing. So I have a couple things to work through.

After thinking about it, I think my AWIC water lines might need some work. I'm pretty sure that one of the lines is kinking, reducing flow across the cores. I was also thinking that I might need to run some sort of reservoir in addition to the recovery tank to increase the thermal mass of the whole system.

The other thing that happened, I started getting a "accelerator circuit performance" code if I coast downhill in gear. I'm fairly certain that's due to the VSS not functioning properly.

Mark Malone has been great to work with! Malone is in the middle of moving, and he (and Owain) have sill managed to get tunes out the door. I shopped around for tunes for a while, I talked to Kerma and RocketChip as well. Kerma was kind of a jerk so I went with Malone. Sorry Kerma, you should really consider not approaching potential customers as inconveniences when they want non-standard things in their tunes. They might even be willing to pay extra for your time. I don't like smearing people but this really bothered me since I was looking at spending a non-trivial amount of money. RocketChip was also great to talk to, but it came down to I needed to make a decision and Malone is closer to me.

The tune as it stands is powerful enough to cause understeer in corners in AWD if you push it! The 4.0 had to work much harder to do the same. I have a small amount of smoke and plenty of air with the gtc1549vz.

I built the second draft of my CCD to CAN gateway, its got some work yet, but here's some glamour shots!





Draft 2 of the board has some nagging layout issues, and a missed trace. Hopefully draft 3 is good, and then I'll publish the design for others to build.
 

Motohead1

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Location
charlotte
TDI
2002 bug+telephone pole
Love the detail your posting in your build. Adding some volume and confirming good flow will fix your intake temp issues. And +1 for Malone tuning. They have been awesome with my odd tuning requests over the years.
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
Hey guys! I've been commuting back and fourth to work in my swap and its been a dream! I have some updates I need to make when I have the time, but I have one major issue left, and its a doozy.

If I break 3k RPMs when the engine is cold, the engine falls completely flat, like its being defueled, and generally refuses to continue accelerating. Once its warmed up, if I break 3k, it just stumbles around 3k and continues on. The part that makes this issue interesting is that it appears that my throttle position falls to zero when this issue happens, and I don't think its the throttle going out itself, because the failure is throttle position independent. There's a pending accelerator circuit performance code, which given the behavior, isn't unexpected. Malone is scratching their head on this one. Any ideas as to what causes this shudder?

Green line is RPM, Yellow line is throttle position, and the highlighter is what I think the throttle position actually is:
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
Hey guys! I've got an update for you. I got tired of waiting for my custom hardware to work the way I want it to so I build a MFA using off the shelf components! Here's what it looks like:


It's got a GPS for accurate speed, and gets a bunch of data off the standard CAN broadcasts from the ECU.

Here's the source.

Anyone interested in helping/running one? This is NOT specific to my Jeep at the moment. It should be trivial to shoehorn in TP2.0 to get measuring block datalogging fairly quickly, at data rates that are much faster than VCDS over k-line is capable of.

Here's a rundown on YouTube.
 
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zefzone

New member
Joined
May 10, 2020
Location
United States
TDI
2.0 TDI - BHW
Now that you've driven the Jeep for a while, how has the air to water intercooler treated you? I'm considering that route because I'm doing an EGR delete and may have some thermal overhead for a air water intercooler. Have you seen coolant temp spikes?

Thanks
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
So... Great question. I have inexcusably high IAT's. It's a combo of not enough coolant flow across the core and probably not enough nozzle driving higher EGTs. The core (not radiator!) Is probably also slightly undersized.

I'm gonna be tearing the front off the Jeep here pretty soon to clean the injector fuel distributor pipe and replace the tandem pump again to just be certain that there's no other issues relating to my "stumble" issue. Since I tucked everything so tight to the firewall, the heads gonna come off.

While it's off I'm gonna replumb the AWIC coolant circuit to completely get rid of all the restrictions and maximize the coolant flow rate. Today, as it stands, tooling around town I am seeing 140°f IAT, and on the highway it spikes above 180°f on the hills. I was towing a light trailer with a heavy rototiller and managed to melt one of my coolant elbows out. So... The jury is still out on my exact setup, but many others have had great luck with running an AWIC in swapped Jeeps.

I would also note that I do not have heatsoak issues that many complain of when generally talking about AWIC setups, my coolant fan quickly pulls the temperature back down and the AWIC radiator is cool to the touch, even when the IAT's are high.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

Straypoet

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2020
Location
Florida
TDI
BHW 2.0, soon to be in my Wrangler.
Using an EBay ECU bench I was able to dump the ECU and remove the immobilizer. Once I get a running engine, ill start it up before getting anywhere near the Jeep.

I realize this is an older post, but to the OP, can you point me to which bench flasher you used, and how you disabled, l learned how to disable the Immo? Also, did you shut down the EGR at the same time?

Thanks!
 

Straypoet

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2020
Location
Florida
TDI
BHW 2.0, soon to be in my Wrangler.
I think I figured out that you are using a KTAG to read the ÉCU. I see how to read the eprom. What software did you use to disable immobilizer? Or did you just download a pre-modified file?
 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
Well, I have bad news. I haven't really been driving this Jeep much because of the problems I'd been experiencing around high IATs, what seemed like a rev limiter at just over 2000RPMs, I kind of lost motivation to keep working on it. I put a cam, new tandem pump, and some new injectors in, just for the issue to follow. A couple weeks ago, I ran across a thread where someone described near identical symptoms and attempts to fix the "rev limiter" like stumble, and their issue came down to a bent tooth on the crank trigger wheel. I figured it would be no big deal to drop the pan, so I drove the Jeep to the parts store to get everything hot, got some oil, a filter, and when I got home I drained everything. The screen on the funnel had some small chunks, but no glitter, so I didn't expect this when I finished dropping the pan. Thrust bearings, a top and a bottom. So, I guess I'm rebuilding a BHW.

 

xerootg

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Location
USA
TDI
Mk7 Golf Sportwagen, BHW Jeep XJ
I think I figured out that you are using a KTAG to read the ÉCU. I see how to read the eprom. What software did you use to disable immobilizer? Or did you just download a pre-modified file?
PM me if you still need help. I used ktag to do it, and some program I got off a now defunct website to patch the eeprom.
 

Straypoet

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2020
Location
Florida
TDI
BHW 2.0, soon to be in my Wrangler.
PM me if you still need help. I used ktag to do it, and some program I got off a now defunct website to patch the eeprom.
I was able to figure it out, got the KTAG, and the EDC16 Immo-off software, and I am all set. :)
Good luck on your rebuild, keep us posted on the rebuild. I bought 2 engines for my project, and am planning to do a preemptive rebuild on the spare just to be ready, so I am certainly interested.
 
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