Air Conditioner operation without an RCV Refrigerant Control Valve

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
My AC system was not providing full cooling anymore, and I suspected I needed a new Refrigerant Control Valve, RCV. This valve is a simple spring loaded pressure control valve inside the Sanden SD7V16 compressor. I have changed out more than a dozen for friends and family, and it looked as if it was my turn.

The purpose of the RCV is to control the suction pressure of the compressor high enough such that the evaporator will not freeze up, but low enough to give you full cooling.

The pressure in the evaporator will be slightly higher than the suction pressure inside the compressor, so you can stand for the pressure to be as low as about 25 psig (29 degrees F). I seem to remember that the Bentley suggested 35 psig (40 degrees F), but I consider this too low. I would want a minimum pressure of 25 psig(29F) and a maximum pressure of 30 psig (35F).

The replacement RCVs come from China, and I find their setpoints vary quite a bit, from a low of 25 psig to a high of 33 psig. I don't have a way to test them on the bench, and I really don't know what their true differential pressure setting is; I am reporting the system operating pressure that results.

Because I am as curious as a cat, I wanted to see what my system would operate at with the RCV bypassed. In an article that I have shared before a mechanic from Mexico points out how to bypass the RCV function by replacing it with a bolt. I decided to just remove the O-ring that separates the high and low pressure sides of the RCV to see what resulted.

At idle on a 100 degree South Carolina day, with normal (very high) relative humidity, the sytem at idle would maintain 35 psig, and about 43 F air outlet temperature. So even with the compressor at full displacement, full load, this is the best it could do.

But during a short (5 minute) interstate drive in my 5 spd, the outlet air temperature, with the cabin fan at full speed dropped to 23F!!
Continued operation at this condition will result in a ball of ice at the evaporator, but it sure felt good.

I replaced my RCV and the O-ring and got one that operates on the high end of the band, unfortunately, but still much better than the old one.
 

Enabled

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Location
Houston, TX
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI Manual, BMW 328d SW
I need to do the rcv too. But probably will not delete it. Any other sources for it besides Polar inc.? Compressor seals are a must too, no?
 

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
I usually use Polarbearinc.com but I am sure there are others.

I do not usually replace any other seals, Orings or gaskets, and have never YET had a leak on about a dozen jobs. Replacing the drier is a good move, as the system is wide open for quite a bit of time, and Houston humidity is notorious.

Replacing the drier is harder than replacing the RCV. Access to the bolts is very poor, and they can be very tight.

Remember to check compressor health prior to putting on the new parts. Oil should be amber and no metal flakes present. I check by pulling the barrel plug on top of the compressor and using a makeup foam Qtip to get a wipe. No dark oil, no metal flakes, or it is kaput. It should also turn very smoothly with just light pressure on the clutch face.
 

TDIray

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2002
Location
Middle Tennessee
TDI
98 Jetta, 99 NB & 03 Golf TDI's
I need to replace my RCV in a 1998 VW Jetta TDI. I opened the compressor and order a replacement. The threaded shalf on my existing is 14mm. The one I ordered is 12mm. All that I have searched for are 12mm. I have not been able to source a 14mm threaded shalf. Has anyone ever run across this problem?
 
Top