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Old January 12th, 2018, 10:18   #1
mcarlito
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Default Opening those strange clamps near the firewall.

Hello,

I've been on this forum for a long time. '03 jetta wagon tdi 328,000 miles and happy with my car.

I'm going to be installing new vacuum hoses located just center close to the firewall. My question is, there are two units in front of the hoses that are clamped into place. Can anyone tell me how to un-clamp the units without braking anything? If I can move those units, I will have better access to the vacuum hoses.

Thank you very much for your input.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 10:34   #2
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My advice to whatever you do is to only take one hose off at a time and cut your length to match and reattach. You don't want to end up with a spaghetti bowl of hoses. I don't recall having to remove anything off the firewall when i did mine.

Be careful on the plastic pieces so you don't break a nipple. I usually turn the hose on the connection to loosen things up first.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 11:06   #3
najel
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Are you talking about the solenoids? N75 & N18?



They are on a bracket that comes off by removing a few nuts. They are well hidden and it's easy to drop them, so be careful.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 11:23   #4
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Best vac hoses are either the OEM braided from ID parts or these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I love these silicone hoses, they have stood the abuse i put on the car. THey are also good for diesel fuel and will not rot if they get any on them or in them for even fuel returns and what not.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 11:38   #5
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Also McMaster-Carr carrier all sizes, all firmness, many colors.
When you find that the on-way black and white check valve is wasted, find an alternate source. As a VW part it's crazy over priced.
Some folks will cut the ends of the hose along the length for real easy removal.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 12:17   #6
mcarlito
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Default thank you all

I'll try to respond to all. In response, I have replaced some hoses and have learned to replace one hose at a time. I purchased the two different sizes on McMaster Carr.

Yes those are the two units but the orientation is different, more clustered and all the hoses are behind the units.

Thank you to all so far for your help. So I guess it's a couple of nuts I need to find to remove these units??? I'll look around and see what I can find.

Thank you
If I can throw this thought out to people who are just getting into the tdi journey. Find someone who can help you through the tough times when something goes wrong with your tdi. I have located a tdi guru and so much more of a mechanic near by who has become a good friend and has saved me many times. If I didn't find him on this tdi forum, I most likely would not have my car today. Plus I try to do as much work as I can.

Last edited by mcarlito; January 12th, 2018 at 12:47. Reason: Just discovered the nuts on the solenoid brackets. I should be ok.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 12:54   #7
najel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarlito View Post
Yes those are the two units but the orientation is different, more clustered and all the hoses are behind the units.
They are basically valves that are controlled by your engine computer to turn vacuum on and off to operate two things: the turbo vane actuator, which regulates how much boost your turbo makes, and the EGR valve, which recirculates exhaust gas into the engine for emissions reasons.

I don't think all hoses are typically behind them, so maybe someone worked on this before you owned the car.

But yes, you can remove the whole assembly, that will allows you to get to everything more easily. I think it's 2 or 3 nuts. There are more than that, some of them hold the valves to the bracket, but I found it easiest to remove the bracket all together. Just take a flashlight and try to identify them. This post has a picture identifying the nuts: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...86&postcount=9
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Old January 12th, 2018, 14:28   #8
mcarlito
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Thank you very much. I did locate the solenoids and the two nuts for each. The car I bought new in '03 and there are some hoses in front of the solenoids but there are some behind that I really need to replace. Thank you again for the visual. It helps.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 15:58   #9
BobnOH
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When I did my vac tubes, I left all in place, replaced 1 hose at a time. Easy peezy.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 16:33   #10
Fahrvegnugen
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I remember taking the solenoids of the fire wall, which is also easy. When doing this the first time there is great worry of breaking the brittle plastic, so I removed them for peace of mind. Pulling the hoses while carefully scoring along the nipples helps them pop off. I used an extension with a swivel bit to access the nuts for the solenoids. I used the two sizes of McMaster Carr hoses and they work great.
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Old January 13th, 2018, 05:56   #11
JB05
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A suggestion I read here was to spray silicone on the rubber hoses to soften them. It worked for me when changing the N75 solenoid. Don't know about the ALH, but on my BEW. this solenoid had one slotted hole; so I only had to loosed the inner, hidden nut.
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Old January 13th, 2018, 08:55   #12
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Mcarlito says: Can anyone tell me how to un-clamp the units without braking anything? If I can move those units, I will have better access to the vacuum hoses.

There is a bracket for the two solenoids that can be removed by removing two acorn nuts.

As for replacing line, the LAST thing you want to do is break a nipple off of any connection. Since you are removing and replacing lines, use a utility knife and cut lengthwise along the hose from the base to the end of the nipple. Otherwise, use a small screwdriver, twist and pry the hose off from the base.

On many of the vacuum reservoirs, there is a slot along the hose nipple. You can use that opening to cut the hose. When that is not available, twist and pull straight out. I can tell you, breaking nipples off is aggravating, but most often repairable.

The amazon vacuum hose is fine, but don't forget there are two sizes of hose. About 14' of the 2.5mm and another 6' of the 3.5mm. So, if you decide to replace all your line, silicone runs into quite a bit of money.
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Old January 13th, 2018, 08:59   #13
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Najel, you have it backward.

The N75, is the pressure converter that goes to the turbo actuator. The other device, is for the anti-shudder valve, which only operates when you turn the key off and only for a few seconds at that time.
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Old January 13th, 2018, 11:37   #14
najel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franko6 View Post
Najel, you have it backward.

The N75, is the pressure converter that goes to the turbo actuator. The other device, is for the anti-shudder valve, which only operates when you turn the key off and only for a few seconds at that time.
On my car (02 Golf ALH engine) the N75 (to vane actuator) is the far right (when looking from the front of the car), the N18 (to EGR valve) is to the left of it, and the N239 (to the ASV) is mounted on the intake manifold, right by the ASV vacuum actuator. Maybe yours is different? But that is how it's shown on the stock diagram as well:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8722/...6acf578c_b.jpg
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Old January 14th, 2018, 11:58   #15
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If yours is like that, I will say no more of your actuator's position. I believe the normal positioning is N75 is closer to the left side of the engine.
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